Tarragon cocktails

Never really been a big fan of cocktails that include herbs. I don't mind mojitos, but, every once in while, you get some drink slinker who thinks they're serving you a salad instead of a soothing sipper.

Hate it when they chop the mint up into little itty bitty pieces. Not only do you now have a drink with floaters, but you have to worry about getting green bits stuck between your teeth.

But this weekend I had the herb cocktails of all herb cocktails at Rae restaurant in Philly. This is a very cool restaurant in the new Cira Centre building at 2929 Arch St. (Next to 30th Street Station.)

The Rae Cocktail ($10) is a super cold combo of vodka, blood orange juice and tarragon. Yep, tarragon. It works. A single sprig floating in the drink. Nice.

Reader mail

Morning food lovers. Good news for Asian food fans - Masamoto, a new sushi house and Asian Grill on U.S. 202 in Glen Mills, Pa. (It's just over the Delaware line.) See my review. It's a BYOB that's just barely a month old.

Interested in fireplace dining? See Peter Bothum's story in 55 Hours.

Today's mailbag gives us chat about gift certificates, soup recipes and new lunch dining hours at Domaine Hudson. Enjoy. Keep the email coming. You ask. We answer. Every Friday.

In September 2007, I purchased two $25 gift certificates for Costa's Grill & Wine Bar through WJBR’s Taste of Wilmington program. I had not yet used them, and see in The News Journal that Costa’s closed on Dec. 27.

Will these be honored at ThoroBreads instead? I also purchased two $25 gift certificates for The Exchange. Will the Costa’s certificates be honored there? If not, who do I contact to request a refund?

Joy

Owner Constantine Dimas ran Costa's for more than two years before recently closing the downtown Wilmington eatery. According to Rachel A. Fatow, Director of Special Events & Catering for Dimas's restaurants, Costa's gift certificates can be used at The Exchange or Thorobreads.

I have lost the copy of the Tuscany Soup recipe that you had in the newspaper. This was the one that explained how to make that wonderful clear stock!
I finished my last of the batch that I had made and froze for both soup and stews. They were wonderful.
Any chance of you reposting this to your blog?
James T. Morgan

James, I think you're looking for "Judy's soup." This is a wonderful chicken pastina soup that my Shaker Heights, Ohio, pal Judy Stenta makes at a house we rent every fall in Italy. The chicken-broth based soup has cavolo nero or Tuscan black kale - in the U.S., its closest cousin is probably dinosaur kale - as well as pastina, the tiny pearl- or star-shaped pasta. You top the soup with grated Parmesan cheese and fresh extra virgin olive oil. For some reason, I can't find it in our archives. I'll hunt around some more and post it as soon as I find it.

Here's a soup that another friend, and Ohio gal, Wendy O'Keefe made last year in Italy. It's named for the villa we rent.

PODERE PIAZZA PEA-LENTIL SOUP

Don't be concerned that the recipe doesn't list exact amounts. (The ingredient below make a huge batch of soup, you can easily cut them in half.) According to Wendy, "this is one of those recipes that you can fool around with – in the way life's experiences teach us to play with recipes."The flavor of the soup improves the next day. If it seems too thick, just add more water or chicken, beef or vegetable stock to the pot during the initial cooking or when reheating. Not thick enough? Add more split peas, barley or lentils and simmer away.

1/2 pound or more split peas, approximately
1/2 pound lentils, approximately
1/2 cup barley, approximately
1 gallon (16 cups) water, approximately
1 ham hock or smoked turkey leg
2 celery stalks, stems and leaves chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1 large carrot, diced
2 large cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon chopped, fresh rosemary (optional)
1 teaspoon or so dried thyme
1 bay leaf (use 2 if they're small)
Salt and pepper to taste
Extra virgin olive oil
Parmesan cheese (optional)
Wash the split peas, lentils and barley first and add to a large stock pot with the water and ham bone or turkey leg. Then, toss in the vegetables, rosemary, thyme, bay leaves, and salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and then turn down the heat to low and simmer everything together until very soft, about 3 hours. Stir occasionally, especially bottom of pan, to keep from sticking. You may have to add more water to the pot if the peas, lentil and barley soak up too much of the water. In the last hour, remove ham hock or turkey leg. Trim the meat and return it to the pot. Taste and adjust the seasonings. When serving, drizzle the soup with extra virgin olive oil, sprinkle on some Parmesan cheese and serve with crusty bread.

Domaine Hudson wine bar & eatery in Wilmington has added lunch to its repertoire. Co-executive chefs Jason Barrowcliff and Robert Lhulier are serving up a tasty menu of soups, salads and lunch entrees for the hungry lunch crowd. The restaurant has also extended its "333" wine tasting program to begin at 11:30 am when the restaurant opens for lunch. Previously the 333 deal - 3 selected wines, 3oz pours for $3 - began at 4:30 pm. [View Tom's 3 wine selections of the day at http://www.domainehudson.com/events.html]

Nancy Horisk-Sherr

Attaboy, Nate

Anybody who complains about Delaware dining hasn't eaten lately at 821 in downtown Wilmington.

Had lunch there yesterday and got the day boat scallops ($16), roasted artichokes and fingerling potatoes with mustard aioli and micro mustard greens.

Wow. Good stuff. I cleaned my plate. Chef/co-owner Nate Garyantes is on his game.

To the right is a Fred Comegys photo of Nate at last April's Meals from the Masters Celebrity Chefs' Brunch at the Bank of America HQ in Wilmington. Nate made this cool "eggs and bacon" dish of a tiny quail egg, a layer of creamy applewood-smoked bacon custard, a bit of parsley coulis, sprinkles of fresh morel mushrooms and a frothy topping of coffee-infused foam - all served inside a fragile eggshell.

Now, that's creativity. And it was delicious.

Costa's closes

The least favorite part of my job is writing about restaurant closings. Here's today's story about the closing of Costa's in downtown Wilmington.

The photo to the left is Costa and partner James Mallios at their Market Street eatery, The Exchange.

Mickey gives kids the Heisman

Truth is stranger than fiction and the happiest place on Earth now doesn't always allow kids free run of the place. Read this story from the Associated Press:

ORLANDO, Fla. — The home of Mickey Mouse, Tigger and Tinkerbell has banned kids from its fanciest restaurant.
Beginning this week, children under 10 are no longer welcome at Victoria & Albert’s in the Grand Floridian Resort & Spa. Victoria & Albert’s is Walt Disney World’s only restaurant with an AAA five-diamond rating.
“We want to be the restaurant that’s available for that adult experience,” said general manager Israel Perez.
Only about three families a month ever brought young children to Victoria & Albert’s, said Rosemary Rose, Disney’s vice president for food, beverage and merchandise operations.
Men are required to wear jackets, and women must wear dresses or pantsuits. The hushed atmosphere features live harp music, and the menu, which changes daily, offers seven-course dinners that can last as long as three hours. Prices start at $125 a person.
Rose noted that there are plenty of dining options for families at Disney, which World has 97 other full-service restaurants.

The Skinny

I'm a walking cliche.

I did something I thought I would never do - I made a New Year's resolution. My resolution is not at all original: I decided to become a more healthy person in 2008. That means making exercise a greater part of my life, losing some weight and lowering my cholesterol.

The loss of three family members - three of my father's four younger siblings - in 2007 caused reflection on my own life. Turn it around in 2008. New year. New me.

Today, The News Journal kicks off its Be Healthy Delaware challenge. There are tips for eating wisely and healthy and blogs from some of our own staffers. Check them out.

Their stories are funny, poignant and highly relatable. Read Jeffrey's Jan. 6 posting and video about parking away as far as possible in the employee parking lot. (I actually did this, well, kind of, today. Then I realized I was wearing pointy toe high heels. Walking in these shoes is, in itself, a workout. Tomorrow, I'll park further away from the building, wear flat shoes and carry my heels in a bag until I get to my desk.)

Last year, I interviewed Melissa Clark and her best friend Robin Aronson about their book "The Skinny: How to Fit Into Your Little Black Dress Forever" (Meredith, 2006.) That's Melissa and Robin in the photo taken by NJ staffer Bob Craig. It was taken at DiBruno Brothers in Philadelphia. Melissa is a food writer/cookbook author who frequently contributes to The New York Times and Food & Wine. She's a wonderful cook, eats out often with Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni and she's a size 2. I don't hate Melissa, just the opposite, in fact. Melissa and Robin still struggle with maintaining their weight and write about it on their blog, The Skinny. It's also a fun read.

I like the Skinny's approach of eat-what-you-like way to lose weight and ways to keep it off. Here's a "Skinny" recipe from their book:

Roasted chicken breasts with rosemary apples

2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 6 to 7 ounces each)

1/2 garlic clove

1/2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Coarse sea salt or kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon unsalted butter (or use olive oil)

2 large Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and coarsely chopped (about 2 1/2 cups)

2 tablespoons white wine or water

1 large sprig rosemary

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Rub each chicken breast with garlic. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and roast until the juices run clear, about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, make the apples: In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat melt the butter. Cook until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the apples, wine or water and rosemary. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the apples are tender and have broken down slightly, about 15 minutes. If the pan juices dry out before the apples are soft add another tablespoon or two of water and keep cooking.) Remove the rosemary sprig and season the sauce with salt and a generous amount of pepper. Arrange the chicken on individual serving plates and spoon the apples on top. Makes 2 servings.

Reader mail

Reader mail. Delaware diners and Better Cheddar are the topics today.

You ask. We answer. Every Friday.

Hi Patricia. I moved to Delaware 10 years ago from the Philly suburbs. I was used to diner foods. There is always a diner to be found in Pa. I am just so surprised I have not found [some] in Delaware. Any suggestions? I miss good old fashion diners. Thanks. Kristine LaPorte

Kristine, I'm not sure where you live, but there are some decent diners in Delaware. For breakfast, I like Crossroads, 4579 Kirkwood Hwy. 998-9368. The new Lucky's Coffee Shop & Restaurant, 4003 Concord Pike, Wilmington, formerly the Ranch House, is another good spot.

Some friends love the Hollywood Grill, 1811 Concord Pike, Wilmington, 655-1348. In Dover, there's the good old Hollywood Diner, 123 N. Dupont Highway, Dover, 734-7462. One of our editors likes the Korner Diner, 137 E. Main St., Newark and the Marsh Road Diner, 407 Marsh Road, Wilmington. A longtime favorite has been Cosmos Diner, 316 S Maryland Ave Wilmington, 994-0920. The Smyrna Diner, U.S. 13, Smyrna, 653-9980, has been around forever, but I do know they're getting ready to move to a new location. My hands-down favorite place in Sussex County is the Crystal Restaurant, 620 Rehoboth Ave, Rehoboth Beach. Jimmy's Grille, U.S. 13A Bridgeville, 337-7575, used to be great, but I've heard reports that food and service has slipped in recent years.

Not in Delaware, but not too far away, is Hank's Place, Baltimore Pike (U.S. 1) and Pa. route 10, Chadds Ford, Pa., (610) 388-7061

Last week, Ellen London e-mailed Second Helpings, wondering if we had the Better Cheddar recipe from the Back Burner To Go in Hockessin. Food columnist Nancy Coale Zippe came to the rescue. She says Sue Franck of Hockessin had sent one that comes close.

Cheddar walnut spread

2 cups grated sharp Cheddar cheese

1 cup finely chopped walnuts

1/3 cup finely chopped scallions, white portion

2 tablespoons dry white wine

1 teaspoon caraway seeds, optional

1/2 cup softened butter or margarine

Combine the cheese, nuts, scallions, wine and caraway seeds (if using) and mix well. Stir in the butter to make a spreadable mixture. Chill, covered, and bring to room temperature before serving. Nice served on rye rounds. Makes about 3 cups.

Joanne Wright also wrote to say that her sister Jackie has worked on replicating Better Cheddar for a long time and this recipe is “delicious!” (Thanks, Joanne!) Wright notes that while Jackie “isn't one for using exact measurements, this is close” to the Back Burner to Go version. (For more Better Cheddar suggestions, read the comments from the Reader Mail post on Dec. 28.)

Jackie’s Better Cheddar

1 (8-ounce) cream cheese, softened

1 block (10 ounce, perhaps) extra sharp vermont cheddar, shredded

Chopped green onions (white and green parts)

1/4 to 1/2 cup chopped walnuts

1 tablespoon of liquid smoke Dash of McCormick’s Season-All seasoned salt and/or garlic powder

Mix well and let sit for a few hours before serving.

Trolley Square Acme overhaul

Just got an email that the Acme Market has apparently signed a new lease with the property owners of the Trolley Square site.

Major renovations will be made to the store in June or July 2008. The store will remain open during the renovations.

Improvements will include more cashier aisles, among other things.

Wow, let's hope more is to come. When I lived in the city, I would occasionally shop in that store. It was never pretty. I'm sure stores in Russia had better selections.

Smell the smoke, find the bbq

Is Middletown become a hub of barbecue?
Keith Young called after reading today's mention of a new barbecue joint in Middletown (see third item.)
Seems Young also opened a new BBQ restaurant, Young's Barbecue in Ashley Plaza, in early November. It's off Del. 299; 376-1777. Young says he offers everything from Carolina style pulled pork to beef brisket to ribs.
Hours are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday and Tuesday; he's closed Wednesday and is open 11 a.m to 7 p.m. Thursday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday.

Sushi surprise

Had dinner recently at Masamoto Asian Grill and Sushi Bar, 1810 Wilmington Pike (U.S. 202), Keystone Plaza, Glen Mills, Pa., and I must say, what a find!

Sushi was impeccably fresh and prices right at this brand new BYO. Don't want to give too much away, but look for a review - and more info - coming soon. Get the Masamoto roll ($9) a combination or salmon, tuna, avocado and caviar wrapped in cucumber or, if you're daring, the monk fish liver.

Just an FYI, the eatery is so new (barely 3 weeks), that service is still finding its footing and so is the kitchen.
(I was looking forward to trying Masamoto's version of tuna pizza - that's the signature dish of Food Network chef/restaurateur Masaharu Morimoto, which I sampled recently at his New York eatery - but it wasn't available during my visit.)

But I'm ready to have another meal here very soon.

Looks like the eats beat is off to great start for 2008.