Showing posts with label cooking at home. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cooking at home. Show all posts

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Barbecuing for the weekend


I know you'll be firing up the grill sometime this weekend and if you're looking for some new recipes, consider a few that ran in the Life section yesterday.

The theme was red, white and blue foods - but we're not talking about kitschy blue Jell-o and the like.

One of my favorite recipes is for Thai barbecued chicken that gets it heady aroma from a combination of coconut milk, fish sauce, lime juice, onion, garlic, ginger and cilantro. It's so different than the usual run-of-the-mill barbecue sauce. I made it last weekend - definitely let it soak for at least 4 hours - and it was a winner.

(One quibble, I slightly burned the chicken thighs. My gas grill gets scorching hot and I need to embrace the indirect cooking method more often.)



THAI BARBECUED CHICKEN

Adapted from Barbara Scott-Goodman's "The Beach House Cookbook" (Chronicle Books, 2005.)
1 cup coconut milk
1/3 cup Asian fish sauce
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
4 cloves garlic, minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
2 shallots or 1 medium onion, chopped
1 teaspoon hot sauce
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 chicken (2 1/2 to 3 pounds), cut into 10 pieces or 8 chicken thighs (bones in)
6 scallions, trimmed and minced, and lime wedges for garnish

Combine the coconut milk, fish sauce, lime juice, garlic, ginger, shallots (or onion), hot sauce and red pepper flakes, sugar, cilantro, and salt and pepper to taste in a blender and blend until smooth. Put the chicken in a large nonreactive bowl or baking dish. Pour the mixture over the chicken and marinate for 4 hours in the refrigerator, turning the chicken occasionally.

Prepare a gas or charcoal grill. When the fire is medium-hot, and the coals are covered with a light coating of ash and glow deep red, put the chicken on the grill, bone side down. Cover and cook for about 15 minutes. Turn and cook, skin side down, covered, until the juices run clear, 12 to 15 minutes.

Transfer the chicken to a platter, garnish with the scallions and limes, and serve at once. Makes 6 servings.

Since I'll be shopping at the Lewes Farmers Market this weekend, I plan to pick up some berries and make this dessert on Saturday. Happy Fourth of July!
MIXED BERRY SLUMP

This dessert from Rick Rodgers' "Summer Gatherings" (William Morrow, 2008) is made on the stove.
4 pints berries, such as blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and hulled, sliced strawberries
3/4 cup sugar, or more to taste
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons cornstarch, dissolved into 1/4 cup water
Dumplings
2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled and thinly sliced
2/3 cup whole milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Vanilla ice cream




Combine the berries, sugar, orange juice and butter in a nonreactive, heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cook until the berries give off their juices, about 5 minutes. Stir in the dissolved cornstarch and return to the boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low.

Meanwhile, make the dumplings. Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a bowl. Add the butter, and using a pastry blender or a large fork, cut the butter into the flour mixture until the mixture looks crumbly with a few pea-size pieces of butter. Mix the milk and vanilla in a measuring cup and stir into the flour mixture.

Drop the dough by heaping teaspoons into the simmering berries to make 16 dumplings. Cover the saucepan and simmer until the dumplings are cooked through, about 20 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and let stand, with the lid ajar, to cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Serve the berries warm in individual bowls, each serving with 2 dumplings and a scoop of ice cream. Makes 8 servings.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

The perfect burger


Hey all - hope your holiday weekend was filled with good times and good food.

The barbecue season is in full swing and weekend dinners and parties included fresh mahi-mahi, barbecue and Mexican food - I need to get the recipe for a kicky pasta salad made with a sauce of roasted poblano chilies and cilantro - and surprisingly sweet (for this time of year) Sussex County corn. (Thanks Christine and Matt. Good times!)

Wow - the Greenwood Volunteer Fire Company barbecue chicken stand off U.S. 13 in Sussex County was crazy busy this weekend and a super long line on Sunday. People can't get enough of their slightly vinegary tasting chicken. It's worth a stop if you're ever in the area.

Also, I had to feed the need for the perfect burger after thumbing through "Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes" (Clarkson Potter, $25.95) cookbook.

I followed the grillmaster's suggestion for the "perfect burger" - he uses 80 percent lean, 20 percent fat ground chuck - this is really important, don't get 90 percent lean meat or the burger will be too dry - salt, pepper and canola oil. That's it.

According to Bobby: "Fat carries flavor and moisture. So if you want a juicy, flavorful burger, chuck is definitely the way to go."

I dig the fact that Flay is a purist when it comes to beef burgers. He makes his patties only with ground chuck and doesn't like to mix in any extra ingredients like onions, eggs or garlic. (That's meatloaf, he says.) He saves creativity for toppings.

Flay forms the meat into 3/4-inch burgers, about 6 ounces each, and then makes a deep depression in the center with his thumb. Then he seasons both sides of each burger with salt and pepper and brushes them with canola oil. Grill about 3 to 4 minutes per side - total of 6 minutes for rare, about 7 minutes for medium-rare and 8 minutes for medium.

(If you want to cook it longer, well, you're on your own. That's just burnt meat, in my opinion. If you're adding cheese, put it on during the last minute of cooking and close the grill cover.)

Guests agreed these were very tasty, very juicy burgers. (I served the burgers on toasted potato rolls, along with big slices of sweet onion, ketchup and mustard along with sides of pickles, baked beans and homemade cole slaw. Now that's some good eats.)

This is my new simple-yet-oh-so-perfect burger recipe for the summer. Thanks Bobby.

Monday, May 11, 2009

What's new


I'm very, very late with the post today. It's been "one of those days" - reporting needed to be done, stories written, and, well, just other stuff.

I just now looked up and noticed it's way after 5 p.m. Gotta get going soon. There's a pair of running shoes and a track waiting for me. (Training for a 5K, my first!, is in full swing.)

OK, so I couldn't keep an interview today with Chris Lilly of the award-winning Big Bob Gibson's Bar-B-Q Team- but LUCKILY my esteemed colleague Gary Soulsman stepped in for me.
(Thanks, G. I owe you one.)
Gary's story on Q - and recipes from Chris's book (photo to the left) is coming next week, just in time for Memorial Day.


In other news:

Had a terrific dinner recently at Harry's Seafood Grill on the Wilmington Riverfront. We sat outside and it was a perfectly beautiful night - cool, but not cold; no humidity. Is this really Delaware??

I was torn between oysters and tartare of big eye tuna and hamachi ponzu with wasabi and wakame - and finally went with the tartare. The landlubber with me looked at it with interest - especially the wonderfully crunchy chips served on the side- and was ready for a big bite until I mentioned tartare and hamachi were raw. (Well, kind of raw, the acid in ponzu "cooks" the fish.) Yeah, well, raw was a big n-o. I always forget there are people who don't like sashimi or ceviche. Just more for me.

My server suggested the pan-roasted escolar (about $23) and he was so spot-on. The fish's flesh, when cooked, is snowy-white and slightly sweet.
The landlubber - no big surprise - went with Harry's surf and turf - or braised prime short rib of beef and crabcake with California slaw.
Anne Hood, Harry's sommelier, suggested a great Viognier that paired very nicely with the escolar.



Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Random food thoughts

Comedian Pat Cooper will be signing bottles of vodka on Thursday at Total Wines & More in Claymont. Read about here (second item.)

French bistro cooking - at home? Yes. Really. I made the smoked salmon tart (see recipe) and brought it to a party. It got raves from the crowd. Give it a try.

It's springtime and I can't get enough asparagus. Bought two big bunches yesterday at the Riverfront Market ($5) and used it last night in a shrimp and asparagus risotto flavored with lemon zest.

I saw a risotto recipe in the May issue of Gourmet, but I didn't cook the asparagus first which the recipe called for. (Dirtying another pan? Sorry, I'm too lazy) I just chopped up the asparagus and threw it into a pan along with the shrimp in the last few minutes of cooking. Turned out fine. Lemon zest is a very nice touch.

I think I'll just roast the other batch tonight.

Monday, April 13, 2009

Monday, Monday

Hi, everyone.

Hope your holiday went well. My kitchen was a no ham zone this year.

I was going to make leg of lamb for Easter, but decided to do rack of lamb after seeing some good looking hunks at Costco. Yep, Costco, a place I vowed to stay away from because I suddenly find myself buying 25 pounds of flour for no real reason....

But the allure of Costco can be hard to resist, especially the meat and cheese aisles. (What am I going to do with 3 boxes of Boursin cheese and a huge log of goat cheese? I don't know yet, but I have a feeling a savory smoked salmon tart may be making a guest appearance in my kitchen very soon.)

The lamb - which was already Frenched - was easy and tasted terrific: Sprinkle each rack with salt, pepper, seasonings (I used Penzeys Tuscan Sunset) and olive oil, sear on the stove in a grill pan until nicely browned and then toss in a preheated oven at 400 degrees until medium rare, about 20 to 25 minutes.

I served it with a fresh mint/basil sauce - inspired by a salsa verde from Giada De Laurentiss - made with lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, and some other spices. Very nice. Served it with roasted asparagus and my riff on a feta cheese-flecked, tomato, basil and green onion orzo salad (see photo) also from Giada.

I'm playing catch up after being off the clock for more than week, so probably no more updates today.






Friday, March 27, 2009

Reader Mail


Soooooo happy it's Friday. More NCAA b-ball tonight even though losses by Duke - yeah, I know I went with Duke and not 'Nova - and Memphis haven't help my bracket. Errrrrrrr....








On Thursday, the Phillies unveiled new food options, merchandise and other things that will be going on at Citizens Bank Park this season. Home opener is April 5. I'll post my story later today. (Chatted for a while with my childhood hero Greg Luzinski, who sells his Bull's BBQ sauce at Willey Farms in Townsend. Life was very good on Thursday.)

And speaking of Thursday: Have you been to the Thursday live jazz nights at Moro? They have a small plates menu - items are $15 and under - available on the second-floor. I think this may be one of the best deals in the state for food of this caliber. Moro is easily one of best restaurants in Delaware. More is coming soon.

Every Friday is Reader Mail. You ask. I try to answer. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Here's what's in the mailbag:


PETER BRADY ISN'T THE ONLY ONE WHO LOVES PORK CHOPS AND APPLESAUCE

QUESTION: Dear Pat,
I loved your blog today about having pork and sauerkraut for dinner with mashed potatoes. That is my favorite item that I get every time I go up to Shady Maple outside of Lancaster, Pa. I don't know how to make it though. Could you possibly print your recipe for this yummy meal? I would love tobe able to make it for a Sunday dinner too.

ANSWER: Hi. Thanks for the email. I don't really have a recipe for the dish - it's more like a cooking method.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Set an enamel-coated Dutch oven on the stove over medium-high heat. Film thebottom of the pan with vegetable or canola oil. Salt and pepper a boneless pork roast - I think mine was about 2 1/2 pounds - add it to the pan and brown it in all sides. (You're not cooking it through, just browning the outside.) Remove the roast from the pan. Set aside.

Turn heat down to medium. Add a little more oil, if needed, and 1 large sliced onion and 1 sliced apple to the pan. Sprinkle with salt and a few grinds of freshly ground pepper. Cook until the apples begin to soften and the onion wilts, about 3 mins.. Then, add 1 to 2 cloves of chopped garlic. Cook just until the garlic is fragrant.

Then, add one bag of sauerkraut - I like Kissling's. (Do not rinse it.)

This is where you can get creative. I added about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of homemadechicken broth - just because I had it in the refrigerator - as well as a few splashes - maybe 1/4 cup or so - of apple cider. (You could add white wine if you wanted.) I also added fresh thyme, some caraway seeds, a little ground allspice and a little more salt and pepper. A bay leaf isn't a bad addition.

Put the pork roast back in the Dutch oven. Cover with a lid and place in the oven for 1 1/2 hours. When the 1 1/2 hours was up - I put on the potatoes on the stove to boil for the mashed potatoes. Then, I turned the oven down to 300 degrees and continued cooking the pork and sauerkraut another 30 mins. or so, or until the potatoes on the stove were fork tender and ready to mash.

Remove the pork and sauerkraut from the oven. Slice the pork and return it to the pot. Serve with the mashed potatoes, applesauce - and don't forget rye bread. Horseradish on the side also is good!

A GARAGE SALE AT AIR TRANSPORT COMMAND?

QUESTION: Dear Ms Talorico,

As the local culinary expert, it has been suggested that I ask you about something that I have had no luck at all getting an answer to. Do you know what the status of the old Air Transport Command location is? It closed again before I had a chance to get there, and, as a history buff, I'd be very interested if whoever owns the place and the stuff within ever decides to get rid of it. Do you know anything or who I might contact? Any info would be welcome.

Thanks.

Sincerely,
David Harkins

ANSWER: Air Transport Command restaurant, a part of the New Castle County landscape for more than 20 years, closed on March 29, 2006, according to a handwritten sign on the door. *** UPDATE: It reopened for a short period of time and then suddenly closed again. ****

When the aviation-themed eatery near the New Castle Airport on U.S. 13 first opened in 1984, themed restaurants were big business. The restaurant was named for the military's Air Transport Command, which had a support group at the former New Castle Air Base. Because some of the first women aviators to fly transport planes flew out of New Castle, the restaurant was dedicated to them. The eatery had been owned by Specialty Restaurants Corp. of Long Beach, Calif., which operates several aviation-themed eateries with World War I and World War II motifs.

We called Specialty Restaurant Corp. several times after the restaurant first closed in 2006 and no one returned phone calls.

I tried calling the restaurant's listed phone number on Friday and it rings and rings.

I have no more information. But if I do, I'll post it here.

WORLD'S WORST PIZZA BUT WORLD'S BEST STROMBOLI

QUESTION: Ms. Talorico,

I have not enjoyed a stromboli since Pala's Cafe [World's Worst Pizza on Union Street in Wilmington] closed. Does anyone have the recipe that was used? I'd be extremely grateful to anyone that might be able to supply this to me.

Thank you for your time,
Debbie Bello

ANSWER: I miss Pala's too, Debbie. I liked their chopped salad. Where to get a stromboli now? I recall Gallucio's as having a very good stromboli, though it's been a while since I had one. Readers? Any thoughts? (Maybe, this is a topic one of our Regular Guy Grubbers can tackle - well, if I can get them out of Hooters....)

I will pass along your request to our food columnist Nancy Coale Zippe, who is the Indiana Jones of reader recipe requests.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

All About Ham (revisted)

Busy day today at The NJ and I haven't had a chance to write new posts.

My apologies. But, for your reading pleasure - and Easter dinner planning - here's a repeat of a story I wrote last year about ham.

(I loved the ATTACK OF THE HAM "movie poster" art to the right that was created by our own Howard Johnson. Way to go, HJ!)

New updates are coming Wednesday....

By PATRICIA TALORICO

Listen and understand.

A ham is a lot like "The Terminator."

It can't be bargained with. It can't be reasoned with. It doesn't feel pity, or remorse, or fear. And it absolutely will not stop, ever, until you eat every last slice.

So, how do you keep a relatively easy Easter meal from becoming a post-holiday horror show?

(Leftovers again! There's no escape! Please. In the name of humanity. Make. It. Stop.)

To conquer this hulking hunk of meat, you first need to understand a few basics.

A ham, usually meant to feed a large group, will dwarf even the strongest and largest appetites.

Dorothy Parker once wrote, "Eternity is two people and a ham." Now, that was one smart lady.

Since there's an overwhelming variety of hams available, knowing how much and what kind to buy is half the battle.

A true ham is the leg of pork that comes from the hind of the hog. This is the best choice for slicing and serving. To confuse matters, the front leg -- called the pork shoulder picnic -- often is cured and called ham as well. These hams tend to have more internal fat, making them better suited for dishes such as soups and stews.

Most true hams are cured in salt or salt water and sometimes sugar. After curing, American hams are smoked, then partially or fully cooked. European hams, such as prosciutto, are salted, air-dried and eaten raw.

A few small U.S. producers still make traditional country hams, which are salt-cured, then cold-smoked over smoldering fires. This type of ham must be thoroughly cooked and is extremely salty.

Most of the hams carried by mainstream grocers are fully cooked. The various names on the labels generally refer to the cut of the leg you are getting and the style of flavors used to prepare it.

Check below to see what you need to know.

This article contains information from the Associated Press.

Five tasty ways to tame a ham for the table

HAM CROQUETTES

Ham leftovers can be made into this retro dish from James Villas' "The Glory of Southern Cooking" (Wiley, 2007.) For perfect texture, refrigerate the ham mixture overnight before forming into patties.

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter

3 scallions (white parts only), finely chopped

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus extra for dredging

1 1/2 cups milk

4 cups coarsely chopped cooked ham

3 large egg yolks

1/4 teaspoon dried sage, crumbled

Salt and black pepper to taste

1 large egg, beaten with 2 tablespoons water

2 cups fine bread crumbs

Peanut oil for frying

In a saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat, add the scallions and flour and whisk till soft and well-blended, about 2 minutes. Whisking rapidly, add the milk till well-blended, add the ham, stir well, and remove from the heat. Whisking rapidly, add the egg yolks, return to the heat, add the sage and salt and pepper, and whisk till well-blended. Scrape mixture into a dish, cover and refrigerate overnight. With hands, divide the mixture into 6 balls and roll lightly in the flour. Pat the balls into smooth oval patties, dip briefly into the egg wash, dredge in the bread crumbs and place on a plate until ready to fry. In a large heavy skillet, heat about 1 inch of oil over moderately high heat about 1 minute, fry the patties till golden brown, about 3 minutes on each side, and drain on paper towels. Serve hot. Makes 6 servings.

BLACK-EYED PEA SOUP WITH HAM AND GREENS

A recipe from Mark Bittman's "Quick and Easy Recipes from The New York Times" (Broadway Books, 2007). He likes to serve the soup with a bottle of hot sauce or vinegar.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 ounces ham, chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cups cooked, canned or frozen black-eyed peas

2 cups watercress, trimmed and chopped

Salt and black pepper

Put half the olive oil in a deep skillet or casserole over medium-high heat. Add meat and cook, stirring, for a minute; then add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens and begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Add peas and 1 quart of water. Bring to a boil; turn heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until the peas are completely tender -- 10 minutes for cooked or canned, about 30 minutes for frozen. Stir in the watercress and cook, stirring occasionally, for just a couple of minutes, or until it wilts. Add more water if the soup is very thick. Taste and adjust the seasoning, stir in the remaining olive oil and serve. Makes 4 servings.

HAM, MUSHROOM AND GINGER FRIED RICE

Use ham leftovers in this dish from "Weight Watchers All-Time Favorites" cookbook (Wiley, 2008.)

4 teaspoons canola oil

6 thin slices peeled, fresh ginger, cut into very thin strips

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1/2 pound fresh sliced shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced

1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 cup very small broccoli florets

2 large eggs, beaten

2 cups cold cooked brown rice

1 (1/4-pound) piece lean baked ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 cup bean sprouts

1 cup frozen shelled edamame (green soybeans)

4 scallions, thinly sliced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Heat 2 teaspoons of oil in a large nonstick skillet or wok over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles in it. Add ginger and garlic; stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add mushrooms, bell pepper, and broccoli; stir-fry until vegetables are crisp-tender and mushrooms begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl. Heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in the skillet. Add eggs and stir-fry until softly scrambled, about 2 minutes. Break eggs into small pieces and add to vegetables in the bowl. Heat remaining 1 teaspoon of oil in the skillet. Add rice, ham, bean sprouts, edamame and scallions; stir-fry until heated through, about 3 minutes. Return the vegetables and eggs to the skillet; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Stir-fry until heated through, about 1 minute. Makes 6 servings (each serving 1 1/3 cup).

GINGER ALE-GLAZED HAM

This sweet and tangy glaze from Jamie and Bobby Deen's "The Deen Bros. Cookbook"(Meredith Books, 2007) was inspired by a cola-glaze they grew up with.

3- to 4-pound boneless ham

1 cup white wine

2 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons molasses

Pinch cayenne pepper

2 cups ginger ale

2 tablespoons honey

Preheat oven to 300. Place the ham in a roasting pan. In a medium saucepan, combine the wine, mustard, molasses and cayenne pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in ginger ale. Pour glaze over ham. Bake for 1 1/2 hours. Increase oven temperature to 325. Bake for another hour, basting ham every 15 minutes. Brush the ham with honey. Bake, basting every 15 minutes, until the ham is well-glazed, about another 30 minutes. Slice and serve. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

TOMATO AND ONION GLAZE

This glaze from "The Good Housekeeping Cookbook," (Hearst Books, 2007) is a less sweet alternative to traditional fruit- or sugar-based recipes. Since a glaze coats only the outside, you might double the recipe to serve as you would a gravy.

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

8-ounce can tomato sauce

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter or margarine. Add the chopped onion and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato sauce, brown sugar and Worcestershire sauce, then bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until glaze thickens, about 5 minutes. Use the sauce to glaze a ham, basting as desired. Makes about 1 cup.

PLANNING

- When serving boneless ham, plan on four to five servings per pound, according to the National Pork Board. Count on two to three servings per pound for bone-in hams.

- An unopened ham, in the original packaging, can be refrigerated for 7 to 10 days. For longer storage, freeze the ham in original packaging for up to 2 months.

GLAZING

- Any ham looks and tastes better with a flavorful glaze. Most combine a sweet ingredient -- such as brown sugar, maple syrup or molasses -- with a contrasting flavor, such as mustard or vinegar. Sugars in the glaze caramelize while baking, giving the ham a glossy sheen.

- Before coating ham with glaze make sure to score it with a diamond pattern by cutting 1/4- to 1/2-inch slashes into the surface. It provides more surface area on the ham for the glaze to stick to.

- If a ham has been cured and smoked in a net bag, it may already have a pattern etched into the surface. But even these hams benefit from being scored.

- A ham can be coated with glaze at any point during baking, but every 15 minutes is a good rule of thumb. A glaze works well on a fresh ham, but because of the long cooking time, add it toward the end so it doesn't burn.

VARIETIES

- Fully cooked or ready-to-eat hams need no further preparation. They come with or without the bone. Partially boned is a cut which still has part of the thigh bone, but not big joints.

- The bone adds flavor during the cooking process, but carving can be difficult. Meat expert Bruce Aidells says a whole, 10- to 20-pound bone-in ham is the most flavorful and least wasteful cut. It serves 15 to 20 people with leftovers. Use the bone as you would a ham hock for seasoning soups and bean dishes.

- For smaller groups, Aidells recommends a smaller ham section. The butt-end, which is the upper part of the leg, tends to have more meat than the smaller shank end, which is lower on the leg.

- Partially cooked or ready-to-cook hams are smoked and cured and have been heated to at least 137 degrees during the processing. Aidells says these minimally processed hams tend to have superior flavor and texture.

- Fresh hams, which you may need to special order, haven't been cured or cooked. Cook to an internal temperature of 160.

- Spiral-cut hams, bone in or out, are usually fully cooked. Aidells says these hams tend to dry out and are coated with a glaze made with processed sweeteners. He says a brown sugar and mustard glaze tastes better.

COOKING

- Fully cooked hams can be eaten cold. If you plan to bake it, heat the oven to 325 and cook to an internal temperature of 140. Leftovers, or hams not in their original packaging, should be heated to 160.

- To cook completely, a whole ham will take 15 to 18 minutes per pound to come to temperature. A fully cooked half ham will need to cook for about 18 to 24 minutes per pound.

- Partially cooked hams must be heated at 325 to an internal temperature of 160. A 15- to 20-pound ham needs 18 to 20 minutes per pound. A 5- to 7-pound ham needs 20 to 25 minutes per pound.

LEFTOVERS

- Use for sandwiches, to flavor soups, for croquettes, potato hashes, omelets, casseroles, macaroni and cheese or stir-fries. If you freeze it, wrap meat tightly in aluminum foil and place in an airtight plastic bag. Freeze for no more than 2 months. The thawed meat should be consumed within 2 days.

CARVING

- When carving a ham, use a very sharp, thin blade knife. Cut only the amount you will serve. Leftover sliced ham dries out faster than larger pieces.

- To carve a bone-in ham, cut a few long slices parallel to the bone, then turn the ham so it rests on the cut surface. Make perpendicular slices toward the bone and then cut along the bone to release the slices.

- To carve a boneless ham, cut a few long slices to make a flat surface, then turn the ham onto the cut surface and slice to your preferred thickness.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Sunday dinner

Sunday is my favorite day of the week. And Sunday dinner is near and dear to my heart.

Going through some vacation photos recently, I came across this snapshot taken last year at a farmers market in Slovenia.

Those giant barrels were filled with homemade sauerkraut. It was the fastest moving item of the day on that rainy morning in Ljubljana.

Bundled-up, bicycle-riding grandmoms were loading up on the 'kraut. It was so cool to watch.

Sauerkraut is the base for a popular Slovene soup called jota, which tastes MUCH BETTER than it sounds.

This market was one of my favorite places in Ljubljana beside the store of salt. (See photo.) Yep, the Piranske Soline store caters to nothing but amazing salt. The wooden salt spoon I bought there is still one of my favorite items in the kitchen.

I looked at these photos and thought -bingo! Pork and sauerkraut for dinner, along with mashed potatoes (flavored with some of my remaining Slovenia salt) and homemade applesauce.

I'm off to Black Lab Breads in Wilmington for, hopefully! - a loaf of rye bread.

Wine? Maybe Ribolla Gialla, if I can find it, or perhaps we'll just crack open some beer?

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Asian grocery store soup

Yesterday, I felt a headachy, change-of-weather cold sneaking up and wanted to nip it in the bud.

Only one thing would do: Asian grocery store soup.

Well, that's what I call my homemade chicken stock based soup because most of the ingredients that go into it come from an Asian grocer.

Over the weekend, I made a big pot of chicken stock from the carcass of leftover roasted chicken. (Never throw out your carcass - even if you can't make a stock right away. Just put it in a zip-lock freezer bag and toss in the freezer. Keep a separate bag in the freezer to store vegetable trimmings such as onions, celery and carrots.) Whenever you're ready for stock, toss everything into a slow cooker along with a good helping of salt, some peppercorns, a bay leaf or two and maybe a whole clove or two of garlic as well as herbs like parsley and thyme. (This is a good way to use any extra vegetables you have in the vegetable bin.) Cover with cold water and put the lid on the pot. Let it cook on low for about 7 hours. Strain and you'll have the base for soup of the Gods.

There's no real recipe for Asian grocery store soup, but it does require a trip to the store if you don't have the ingredients.

I love shopping Asian grocers. If you're unfamiliar or intimidated by exotic ingredients, I highly recommend a handy paperback called "The Asian Grocery Store Demystified" (Renaissance Books) by Linda Bladholm. She gives descriptions and provides illustrations of the bottles, bags, noodles, vegetables and fruit frequently found in these markets.

I went to Young's Oriental Grocery Store, 2017 Kirkwood Highway in Elsmere, and picked up baby bok choy, gingerroot, fresh snowpeas, rice stick (as thin as angel hair pasta) and miso paste.

I also bought a package of their own kim chee - look for this spicy Korean pickled cabbage in the back of the store packed in clear plastic containers - to eat later in the week along with a stir-fry. Some of the other containers looked really good - I definitely have come back and try the spicy pork shoulder soon.

When I got home, I chopped fresh ginger and some garlic and tossed it in the bottom of a pot, lightly filmed with canola oil, that was set over medium heat. Cook just until you can smell the garlic and ginger aromas, but do not brown. Then I added a small scoop of miso and whisked it around the pan as I added the chicken stock. Whisk until the miso dissolves. (The miso is optional.)

This is where creativity comes into play. I also added a splash of soy sauce and a couple drips of fish sauce - Three Crabs brands - because I like it, but some people may be turned off by the pungent odor. (A little rice vinegar or mirin is even good.)

Turn the heat up to high. Next, thinly sliced carrots went into the pot and when the stock began to boil, I slipped in the rice stick, which are dry, thin and brittle semi-transparent noodles that turn opaque white after cooking. (NOTE: You can cook the noodles separately, if you want a more brothy soup. The noodles will absorb some of the liquid as they cook and they will cloud the stock, but not affect the taste. It's up to you. I'm lazy and don't feel like cleaning up more than one pot. I also use thin noodles because they cook faster. Sloth is thy name.)

Cook until the noodles are al dente - only a few minutes - and then toss in the chopped baby bok choy, snow peas - no need to chop them - and sliced mushrooms. Cook a few minutes more - just until vegetables are crisp tender.

If you want a protein, add raw, peeled shrimp along with the vegetables and cook until the shrimp turns pink, about 3-4 minutes at the most.

Ladle the soup into bowls and sprinkle with sliced scallions and, maybe, a handful of fresh mung bean sprouts. Eat with a spoon and chopsticks.

If you wanted some added spice, pass around a bottle of Sriacha sauce - the spicy Thai condiment that looks like ketchup - and squeeze some on the top. Enjoy.

Thursday, March 5, 2009

What's brewing


UPDATE: Having some technical difficulties with publishing this post...Stay tuned while we work through it...........OK. DONE.


Buongiorno. While I'll finish my breakfast of champions - coffee and a chocolate chip cookie - I thought I play catch-up.

I'm not recapping last night's "Top Chef" reunion because it was one big snooze fest. Big Baldie, a.k.a. Hosea, is the most charisma-free winner in some time. Shut it, baldie.

And in other "Top Chef" news: Fabio is now shilling a line of frozen pizzas (mamma mia!)and about 90 people showed up at yesterday's Philadelphia "Top Chef" casting call.

Any Delaware chefs attend? Let me know.

Right now, I chomping at the bit for Marco Pierre White's show "The Chopping Block." More on Marco here

Philly Beer Week begins Friday and runs through March 16. Hop heads go nuts. There are more than 650 brew-related events at venues in and around Philadelphia that include beer brunches, neighborhood pub crawls, bus tours, meet the brewer dinners and historical culinary events. For more info visit www.phillybeerweek.org.

My story yesterday was about brew and food connections and cooking with beer.

The pork braised in Guinness from Daniel Boulud's "Braise" cookbook is worth a look. I made this recipe a month ago, but substituted prunes for the cherries because I just received a package of prunes at work. (Oh, the things that arrive in my mail....) It's a wonderful comfort food stew. Froze the leftovers - and then reheated them after Monday's snow; it was still delicious.

BBQ lovers can look over Mark Bittman's barbecue sauce recipe - Bittman gave me the recipe several months before his updated 10th anniversary edition of "How to Cook Everything" was released. I'm very grateful for his generosity.

Haven't yet tried the malty potatoes from Scott Kerkmans, the CBO or chief beer officer for Four Points by Sheraton (and isn't that a dream job?) but Scott has very reliable recipes.

PORK SHOULDER WITH GUINNESS, DRIED CHERRIES AND SWEET POTATOES

Adapted from "Braise" (Ecco, 2006) by Daniel Boulud and Melissa Clark. You can use a smaller roast, but keep the ingredients for the sauce the same.

5 cups Guinness stout
1 cup dried cherries (or you can use prunes)
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil
1 (5 1/2-pound) pork shoulder or pork butt
Coarse sea or kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 large red onions, peeled and sliced
1/2 teaspoon crushed black pepper
4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
5 whole allspice, crushed
2 bay leaves
1/4 cup molasses
3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
2 pounds sweet potatoes or yams, peeled and roughly chopped


Bring the stout, cherries (or prunes), and vinegar to a simmer in a saucepan. Transfer to a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap and let sit for at least 1 hour or refrigerate overnight. Center a rack in the oven and preheat to 300 degrees. Warm the oil in a large enameled cast-iron pot or Dutch oven over high heat. Season the pork shoulder with salt and pepper and sear on all sides until golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer pork shoulder to a platter. Remove all but 2 tablespoons of the fat in the pan. Add the onion and crushed black pepper to the pot and saute for 7 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking until the onions are translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer. Add the pork shoulder, the marinated cherries and liquid, allspice, bay leaves, molasses, brown sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, and 2 cups water. Bring the mixture to a simmer. Cover the pot, transfer it to the oven, and braise for 1 hour, turning the pork once during cooking. Add the sweet potatoes and continue to braise for 2 more hours, turning two more times. If the sauce is too thin or not flavored intensely enough, ladle most of it into another pot and simmer it until it thickens and intensifies. Slice the pork and serve with the sauce on top. Makes 6 to 8 servings.


MALTY ROASTED POTATOES

From Scott Kerkmans, Chief Beer Officer for the Four Points by Sheraton.

1 cup Scotch Ale or Brown Porter
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic (chopped)
2 tablespoons of rosemary or thyme
4 large red potatoes (washed and cut into pieces)
1 medium onion (peeled and cut into pieces)
Sea salt
Pepper
1/4 cup grated Parmesan

Mix ale, oil, garlic and rosemary or thyme in a one gallon zip-top bag. Mix well and add potatoes and onions to the bag. Seal and marinate for 1 hour. Preheat over to 450 degrees. Use a slotted spoon to remove potatoes, garlic and onions from marinade, reserving liquid. Place in a single layer in a nonstick, foil-lined roasting pan. Pour 1/3 of the marinade over the potatoes and onions and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover pan and bake for 30 minutes. Stir mixture and sprinkle with cheese. Uncover and bake for an additional 10-15 minutes until browned.


FAST BEER BARBECUE SAUCE

From Mark Bittman's 10th anniversary edition of "How to Cook Everything: 2,000 Simple Recipes for Great Food" (Wiley, 2008).

2 cups ketchup
1/2 cup beer (the darker the better; use stout or porter if you can)
1/4 cup wine or rice vinegar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce
1 tablespoon chili powder, or to taste
1 tablespoon minced onion
1 clove garlic, minced or crushed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients except the salt and pepper in a small saucepan; turn the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until flavors have a chance to blend, about 10 minutes. Taste and add salt and pepper if necessary. Use immediately or cool, cover, and refrigerate for up to a week. Makes about 2 cups.

Monday, February 16, 2009

V-Day dining

There are two times of the year when I absolutely will NOT go out to dinner: Valentine's Day and New Year's Eve.

Let's just call it amateur night, shall we.

OK, so maybe I'm being way too harsh, but I want to enjoy a restaurant and what the kitchen has to offer.

These two holidays - and, I'll also throw in Mother's Day - are way too crowded and there's often a set menu that I usually don't have much interest in ordering from.

Saturday night, with some of my favorite people, I quite happily enjoyed pasta puttanesca, Mark Bittman's chocolate souffle and some other goodies, along with Schramsberg Mirabelle sparkling wine.

It was a great night.

Where did you go? How was dinner?

Friday, February 6, 2009

Reader Mail



Hey, I know the new Pizza by Elizabeths location has been crazy, crazy, crazy busy lately - like today's one-hour wait for lunch! seriously! - but you may want to consider Cromwell's Tavern - right across the street.
I had a quite enjoyable chicken quesadilla there the other night and loved snuggling into the booth next to the bookshelves.
Onto the mailbag:

THIS IS FLAKY

QUESTION: Red pepper flakes: Can anyone tell me where to buy these? Stores seem to have only the ground and the whole pepper seeds.
Several of your recent recipes have called for the flakes; the latest one was [in Nancy Coale Zippe's column about] CHILIBOB .
Here's hoping you or one of your readers can help with this.
Regards,
Jeanne Hughes

ANSWER: Hi, Jeanne. Look in the spice aisle of the grocery store and you should find them quite easily - they are often called crushed red pepper flakes. The flakes - which you often find in jars on tables at pizza joints and casual Italian restaurants - are nothing more from hot dried red peppers, normally cayenne, which have been crushed.

CUTTING THE MUSTARD

QUESTION: Hello Patricia,
A number of years ago--I am going to guess 10-12 years--the News Journal devoted the front page of the Food Section to a variety of mustard recipes. I saved this article and made them--they were good-- but I think in the process of a move I have lost the original copy. I have tried to access these recipes through archives on delaware online but have had no luck. If you are able to locate them would you please be able to pass them along? If this is something that you may answer through a blog or online, please let me know--and pass along the website--and I will be happy to access the information there.
Thanks so much for your time.
Carol Long

ANSWER: Wow, great memory Carol! I do remember that story - one of my first "food" stories. I wanted to write about homemade holiday gifts that were anything but cookies, cakes and candy.. It was so much fun to research and write. I've been hunting it down, but with no luck so far. It may take some more digging through our archives, but I should have it somewhere. I'll let you know. Thanks for being a longtime reader. It's much appreciated!

DINING OUT ON V-DAY

QUESTION: Hello, I am stumped. I want to go somewhere special and romantic for this Valentines Day. I know I should be reserving way ahead of time for a good place. Seriously. Service and food REALLY suffers on V-Day. Too many reservations and expectations...Now my bf begs to do it after V-day....because of all the hassle mentioned above. it's true. we've had so many bad experiences in the past. I'll settle for celebrating on the different weekend. I'm still open for suggestions. something unique and special, no budget. :)

Elizabeth

ANSWER: I know restaurateurs may not like hearing this, but I'm with your bf on this one - I'd rather dine out AFTER Valentine's Day. (Same goes with New Year's Eve.) Often restaurants will have special "holiday" menus and eateries are jammed packed on these two popular dining out holidays. (Mother's Day, however, is still the No. 1 holiday to dine out.)
I need a little more information, Elizabeth, about what you're looking for - and what location. Off the top of my head, I've had very good dinners recently at the Blue Pear Bistro near West Chester, Pa. It's cozy and warm, but maybe not necessarily romantic. I think you can never go wrong at Moro restaurant or Domaine Hudson, both in Wilmington. Oysters at the bar at Harry's Seafood Grill? Or how about tapas at either Orillas or Ole Tapas Lounge & Restaurant. One of the most beautiful and stately dining rooms in the state - if not the whole East Coast- can be found at the Hotel du Pont's Green Room.

I LOVE NEW YORK

QUESTION: Hi there, Please place this low on your to-do list, but I have a food question for you. I'm going to NYC for work next week and though I love the city, I think I have failed at eating well when there. Mostly, I'm just running here and there and then getting hungry and eating wherever. Your mention of that onion sandwich this week made my mouth water so I'm wondering if you have any other restaurant suggestions. I'm staying in midtown, but have to be in lower Manhattan for an event or two. I have to justify my expenses, so I probably can't go too high-end.
Thanks! Debra

ANSWER: Debra, I'm so jealous! You're going to the culinary capital of the world. So many places to dine, so little time. Off the bat, I'd recommend Momofuku Ssam Bar (go at night), Spotted Pig, Prune, and Resto. I'll be writing about Resto very soon. This Belgian-style restaurant was named one of the Top 10 best in New York by very picky critic NY Times food critic Frank Bruni. It's owned by former Delaware resident Christian Pappanicholas, who graduated from Wilmington Friends School. Make a reservation and tell Christian you're from Delaware. He loves getting visitors from his hometown.
Other places that my friend Andy suggests - one of my best food sources for NYC eats - include Irving Mill, Sushi Yasuda, Mas, and Annisa.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

That's all folks......


My house has smelled of pork since New Year's Eve - and, to me, that's a heavenly aroma.


The bone-in, picnic pork shoulder has become one of my favorite cuts of meat. It's a hulking hunk of meat, yet it's very economical and needs little tending to become tender.

Much of the fat melts away during the cooking and flavor boosts come from a wet paste that you massage onto the surface. (The skin, if you like to eat it, becomes amazing crackly and crunchy.)

The first pork shoulder I slow-roasted on New Year's Eve - I set the oven temperature too high - 325 degrees - and left the meat in the oven too long. The meat was a little dry for my liking, but we still ate it, wrapped in corn tortillas.

The second attempt, I dialed the oven temp back to 300 and was happy with the results. See today's recipe.
Anthony Melhem, executive chef at Haldas Market, suggests slow-roasting at an even lower temp - 275 degrees - for 20 to 30 minutes per pound. I'm going to give this technique a whirl.

The braising recipe below is even easier and I've used it often. If you like pulled pork sandwiches, you'll like this recipe. It's very simple, flavorful and feeds a group. (Good for this weekend's football watching.) I've tried other chili-sauces, but Heinz 57 gives it the best taste.

Every time I make this in my slow cooker, my cat, Big Boy, starts twitching his whiskers because the smell is intoxicating. He would never eat it, but it's so funny to see his reaction.
I prefer to cook it overnight on a low setting and then shred the meat and kept it in the crockpot on warm, but the recipe also works just fine cooking it on high. Serve it coleslaw.


SLOW-COOKER SOUTHERN-STYLE PULLED PORK

Let the slow-cooker do the braising for you.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 onions, finely chopped
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns
1 cup Heinz 57 sauce
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon liquid smoke
1 3-pound boneless pork shoulder or pork butt, trimmed of excess fat
Kaiser or onion buns


In a skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions and cook until soft. Add garlic, chili powder, and pepper and cook, stirring 1 minute. Add Heinz 57 sauce, brown sugar, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce and liquid smoke. Stir to combine and bring to a boil. Place pork in slow cooker. Pour sauce over. Cover and cook on low for 10 to 12 hours or on high for 6 hours, until pork is falling apart. Transfer pork to cutting board and pull meat apart with two forks. Remove excess fat from sauce if needed. Return pork to sauce and keep warm. Spoon onto buns. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Happy New Year!


I'm don't know about you, but I'm over the holiday hustle and bustle. Don't feel like doing much cooking.
My part of the New Year's Eve menu will be as simple as possible: Tacos made from a slow-roasted pork shoulder that's been studded with garlic and rubbed with herbs and spices.
Maybe, I'll also buy homemade salsa from the produce stand at the Riverfront Market to go along with the tortilla chips and guacamole.
Drink a decent bubbly - but don't drive - and have a great evening. Happy New Year.

Friday, December 26, 2008

Dinner went swimmingly.......


Hope you're enjoying a day off or - if you're like me - you're sitting in the office with a skeleton crew and eating leftover Christmas goodies. (I just had a slice of fruitcake - yes more fruitcake!- along with some very sweet and tasty Clementines.)


My Christmas Eve Feast of Seven Fishes went swimmingly. So successful, in fact, that we're going to keep the tradition going next year. (Wow, even the meat lovers didn't miss the beef tenderloin.) Why did we ever let this tradition lapse?

Serving sparkling wine and mini crab cakes as an appetizer certainly helped. Not too many people out there who don't like crab cakes. Even the kids ate them. (If the kids are Sponge Bob fans, just tell 'em, they're crabby patties. Gone in minutes.)
While not a fish, I also had mini "pigs in blankets." (It's another Christmas Eve tradition.) I used Applegate Farms organic smoked cocktail franks that are made without nitrates. You wrap the franks with slices of refrigerator Croissant rolls - baked at 375 degrees for about 12 minutes. Serve with a side dish of sweet and spicy mustard. The franks look good on a plate and the dish is always a big winner with kids as well as adults.
Cheese spreads, nuts and fresh fruit rounded out the munchies.

For one of the main dishes, I made "Barefoot Contessa's" Ina Garten's Seafood gratin - but doubled the recipe and tweaked it slightly. (The recipe is below.)
I used rockfish instead of halibut, used 1 1/2 pounds of large shrimp and added in 1/2 pound of scallops, which I sliced in half.
Normally, I would have made my own fish stock (use shrimp shells and fish bones) but I didn't have enough time. Thankfully Janssen's Market in Greenville carries homemade fish stock. (Look for it in the frozen food aisle. Janssen's always comes through!) And it was very good, if not better than my own.

I made and refrigerated the gratin earlier in the day (I doubled it - so I had enough for a 13-by-9-inch pan and one other smaller size Corningware casserole). While I mixed up everything for the bread crumb topping - except for the melted butter - I didn't mix it and spread onto the top of the casserole until right before the pans went into the oven. I wanted the bread to stay crispy.
This make-ahead gratin is easy entertaining and everyone loved the dish. It's rich, but not too overbearing. We also had a long slow roasted cherry tomato "confit" with marinated artichokes, and Caesar salad with anchovies, among the other dishes...

For dessert, it was the usual pies, cookies, Clementines etc.
But I also ordered a Buche de Noel from the Hotel du Pont. (Yep, we crossed cultures with this French "yule log" dessert.)
It was moist and creamy and went nicely with after dinner drinks of vin Santo, a Tuscan sweet wine.
Here's Ina Garten's recipe from her cookbook "Barefoot at Home" (Clarkson Potter, 2006):
Seafood Gratin
For the sauce:
1 cup seafood stock or clam juice
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons good white wine, such as Chablis, divided
3 tablespoons tomato puree
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads
8 ounces raw shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cut in half crosswise
8 ounces raw halibut, cut into 1-inch chunks (I USED ROCKFISH INSTEAD, REMOVE THE SKIN)
8 ounces cooked lobster meat, cut into 1-inch chunks
NOTE: I ALSO USED SEA SCALLOPS, OPTIONAL)
7 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cups julienned leeks, white and light green parts (2 large)
1 1/2 cups julienned carrots (3 carrots)
1 cup panko (Japanese dried bread crumbs) (NOTE: INSTEAD OF PANKO, I PUT LEFTOVER ITALIAN BREAD INTO A FOOD PROCESSOR AND USED THE CRUMBS.)
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves (NOTE: I USED FRESH THYME INSTEAD OF TARRAGON)
1 tablespoon minced garlic (2 cloves)
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Place 4 individual gratin dishes on sheet pans. (If recipe is doubled serve it in a 14 by 9 1/4-inch oval gratin dish.)
For the sauce:
Combine the stock, cream, 1/2 cup of the wine, the tomato puree, and saffron in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and add the shrimp. After 3 minutes, use a slotted spoon to remove the shrimp to a bowl. Add the halibut to the stock for 3 minutes, until just cooked through, and remove to the same bowl. (IF using the scallops, poach for 3 minutes, and remove to the bowl.) Add the cooked lobster to the bowl.
Continue to cook the sauce until reduced by half, about 12 minutes. Mash 1 tablespoon of the butter together with the flour. Whisk the butter mixture into the sauce along with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Simmer, stirring constantly, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Set aside.
Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in a medium saute pan. Add the leeks and carrots and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, until softened. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of wine, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and cook for 5 to 10 minutes, until tender. Set aside.
Combine the panko, Parmesan, parsley, tarragon, and garlic. Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter and mix it into the crumbs until they're moistened.
Divide the seafood among the 4 gratin dishes. Strew the vegetables on top of each dish. Pour the sauce equally over the seafood and vegetables and spoon the crumbs evenly on top. Bake for 20 minutes, until the top is browned and the sauce is bubbly. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Feast of Fishes


The Feast of the Seven Fishes is making a comeback in my family this year.
In recent years, we've let lapse this Italian-American Christmas Eve custom of serving seven varieties of seafood.
When I began planning a menu this year, I came up with six fishes, but still needed inspiration for the seventh fish.
My pal and frequent traveling buddy Katie invited me along to the Seven Fish Dinner at Toscana Kitchen + Bar which was held earlier this month in Trolley Square.
My photos aren't great. Sorry. It was dark in the restaurant and I was doing more talking and eating than concentrating on photography. (We had a really fun group at my table. That was a pleasant surprise. Once during a wine dinner, I got stuck at table with a drunk professor who kept dropping f-bombs and insulting people at the table. Watching this sloppy bozo was funny for a while, until it got really annoying.)
The calamari stuffed with chorizo cornbread and smoked tomato sauce was my favorite course. (Photo above.) Chef Clifton Aycock got it just right - the calamari wasn't at all tough and it married perfectly with the slightly spicy stuffing and smoky pool of tomato sauce. I could eat this quite often and be very happy. I thought about making it Christmas Eve, but I will save this kind of elaborate dish for another day. I need something a little more simple.
Another winner was the scallops and American roe. It was served in its shell with custard glaze. The accompanying wine was Germano Ettore Binel 2006, which cut through the cream sauce with some zest that wasn't too citrusy. The wine is a blend of Chardonnay and Riesling. You can buy it Moore Brothers Wine Company.



The ravioli of lobster and mushrooms (below) was perfectly fine, but I've had lobster ravioli before. It didn't wow me like the calamari. Moore Brothers matched the dish with Bardolino Superiore Corte Gardoni 2006 - a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and a touch of Sangiovese. It's a wine from the Veneto region of Italy.

The Anjou pear tartlet (below) with anglaise sauce was a beautiful presentation, but, unfortunately, the pear wasn't poached long enough. It was so hard, in fact, we had to saw at it with a knife. I gave up and mostly ate the puff pastry and anglaise. It was paired with a very nice Moscato d'Asti Giuseppe Domenico Vajra 2007, a soft sparkler.




I'm still tweaking my Christmas Eve menu as I write this, but I'm definitely making Ina Garten's Seafood Gratin. It's a one-dish casserole that seems both simple and elegant. I have no desire for last minute cooking on Christmas Eve and being a slave to the kitchen. I just want to spend quality time with family and friends and toast the holiday. Here's Ina's recipe.

Monday, December 22, 2008

Please, Sarah Palin, don't cook Rudolph....


Run, run Rudolph.

Reindeer meat is very popular in Scandinavian countries and among other people living close to the Arctic Circle, according to Niall Edworthy in "The Curious World of Christmas" (Perigee, 2008.)

Smoked roast reindeer is thinly sliced for sandwiches or sauteed as a main dish. Reindeer meatballs also are sold in cans in Alaska. (Insert your favorite Sarah Palin joke here.)

In case you're wondering, reindeer meat, apparently, has a mild gamy flavor.

We'll just take Edworthy's word on it. Eating reindeer, especially this month, just doesn't seem..... right.

Monday, December 15, 2008

All aboard....


Hop onto the crazy train this week.

The countdown to Christmas begins and I haven't started any shopping yet. The family is scaling back this year - whew, and isn't everyone? - but there is still the obligatory toy store trips and, ugh, wrapping to do.

Santa, can you please loan me a few elves?

Also, I have lunches and dinners planned all week. (Doc, I promise I'll start the diet and exercise program very, very soon. But let me please finish the cookies that a coworker's wife made for the office.)

Weekend was a whirlwind. My niece and nephew were part of a live Nativity on Saturday. (My niece was an angel and my sweet little nephew was the baby Jesus - so I guess that makes God my brother-in-law. Talk about family connections!) It was so cute. The church brought in live goats, rabbits, a donkey and a llama. A woman at the church said last year the llama's tail caught on fire. Yikes! Thankfully, no fires this year.

We had a family dinner afterward and I tried out a recipe for "Winter Pork and Fruit Ragout" from The Silver Palate cookbook. (I've been eyeing this ragout for some time.) Served it saffron-flavored rice, Marcella Hazan's Tuscan-style baked cauliflower (a family request) and a crunchy orange-fennel salad dressed with very good extra-virgin olive oil, freshly squeezed orange juice and salt and pepper. For dessert, we had Jacques Pepin's apple galette.

I marinaded the pork the day before and cooked the casserole earlier in the day Saturday. We reheated when we got home.

The hearty stew reminded us of sweet-and-sour pork or, maybe, even sauerbrauten. (The German side of the family was very, very happy.) It's a very good casserole, but next time I'd probably dial down the fresh dill or replace it with fresh parsley or maybe even rosemary. Maybe it's just me; no one else thought the dill was too strong.

Winter Pork and Fruit Ragout

Adapted from The Silver Palate Cookbook

3 pounds lean boneless pork, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 dozen dried apricot halves
1 cup dark seedless raisins
1 cup dry red wine
1 cup red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon dried thyme
Salt, to taste
Best-quality olive oil
4 shallots, peeled and minced, or one large red onion, peeled and minced
1 cup dry white wine
1 quart chicken stock
2 bay leaves
1/4 cup honey

In a large bowl combine the pork, apricots, raisins, red wine, vinegar, dill, mint, cumin, pepper, thyme and salt. Cover and marinate, refrigerated, overnight or up to 24 hours. Stir occassionally.

Remove the pork and fruit from the marinade. (Use a slotted spoon.) Reserve the fruit in a small bowl. Reserve the marinade separately. Pat the pork dry with paper towels.

Film the bottom of a large, enameled cast-iron Dutch oven with olive oil and saute the pork, a few pieces at a time, until well-browned. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Drain the oil from the casserole, add the shallots and saute over medium heat for about 5 minutes. Add the reserved marinade and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits remaining in the skillet. Cook for several minutes, until slightly reduced. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Stir in the reserved fruit, the pork, HALF of the white wine, HALF of the chicken stock, the bay leaves and honey. Mix well. Bring to a boil, cover, and then set on the center rack of the oven.

Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Uncover the casserole and add additional wine or stock if the meat seems too dry. Bake, uncovered, until the meat is tender and the sauce is rich and thick, another 30 to 45 minutes.

Makes 6 to 8 portions.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Reader mail

The cover of 55 Hours today is about good, affordable eats - and big portions. Peter Bothum and I checked out some places. (I'm so glad Pete ate The Glutton at The Note in West Chester, Pa., and not me. That's a lot of sandwich.) Cajun Kate's, Burrito Bandido and Chamberlains Roast Beef also are all worth a visit.

Eric Ruth stops into Famous Dave's in Christiana.

Check out the letters in the mailbag:

WITH A REBEL YELL - 'MORE, MORE, MORE'

QUESTION: Hi Patricia, Not sure if you reviewed The Rebel restaurant yet (201 N. Market St., Wilmington; 658-2018), but I just wanted to express how much I enjoyed my lunch there last week. I had the baked barbecue chicken, with a side of macaroni and cheese. To say it's "comfort food" is an understatement. I could taste the preparation that went into this dish, from the marinade to the mac 'n cheese, it really was good. It was a great place to hang out, and I love the sunlight pouring in the large windows. It was neat to see the crowd's diversity inside, and I thought the owner should be commended for it. "Comfort" is a great way to describe my experience there.


Thanks for listening.
Zach Mauger


ANSWER: Thanks Zach. Readers, just an FYI: I love getting this kind of feedback on local restaurants, but, hope it's not a shameless plug. I don't know if Zach works for or knows anyone from The Rebel.

IT'S CHRISTMAS TIME IN THE CITY......

QUESTION: Hi, I was wondering what restaurants in Wilmington will be having Christmas Eve dinner this year? Looking for a nice upscale restaurant.



Thank you,
Michelle


ANSWER: The Green Room at the Hotel du Pont in downtown Wilmington is one of the most beautiful, upscale restaurants in the state. I have friends who go there every Christmas Eve for dinner. Or you could try Krazy Kat's at the Inn at Monchanin Village.



WHERE'S THE BEEF?

QUESTION: There was a review in The News Journal a week or so ago about a restaurant on Union Street with a really good spicy hot roast beef sandwich. Can you tell me which restaurant ?
Thanks!
Jeff



ANSWER: I think you're asking about the Milan Ultimate sandwich at Timmy D's Deli, 600 N. Lincoln St.


YO, ADRIAN, WHAT'S THAT RESTAURANT?

EDITORS NOTE: A reader asked about dining in South Philly last week. See below:



QUESTION: Wanted to let you know that we went with Ralph’s Italian Restaurant for my coworker's group of 30 last Thursday night. She reports that they had a great time and the food was awesome. They compared the experience to Little Italy in NYC.



ANSWER: We aim to please. Tell your friends and neighbors to read The News Journal, delawareonline.com, and especially Second Helpings www.delawareonline.com/secondhelpings.


SOUP'S ON!

QUESTION: You had a recipe in the paper this year just after Thanksgiving for turkey chowder - lots of corn in it --I cut it out and now can't find it. I am cooking the carcass now - and want so desperately to make it. Can you tell me how I can get it?

Thanks so much,
Kathy Molin

ANSWER: Here it is:


TURKEY CORN CHOWDER

This recipe is from Gina Wessells, of New Castle, at momslikeme.com, a News Journal Web site. She says that, if she doesn't use this recipe, she makes turkey pot pie with dressing as the "crust."

8 ounces bacon
1/4 cup olive oil
6 cups chopped onions (4 large onions)
4 large carrots, peeled and cubed
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 cup flour
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
12 cups chicken stock
2-3 cups diced, cooked turkey
6 cups medium diced white potatoes (2 pounds)
5 cups corn kernels, fresh (six ears) or frozen (1 1/2 pounds)
2 cups half and half
12 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, grated

In a large stockpot over medium-high heat, cook the bacon in olive oil until the bacon is slightly crispy. Reduce the heat to medium and add the onions, carrots, and butter; cooking for 10 minutes or until the onions become translucent. Stir in the flour, salt, pepper and turmeric and cook for 5 minutes. Lower the heat to medium-low. Add the chicken stock, and cook for 20 minutes. Add the potatoes and bring to a boil; simmer for 15 minutes (or until potatoes are tender). Add the turkey and corn kernels to the stock, then the half and half, and lastly, the cheddar. Cook for 5 more minutes until the cheese is melted. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Makes 10-12 servings.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Don't fear the fruitcake

Don't knock until you try it.

Real fruitcake.

Homemade fruitcake.

Fruitcake where you control the ingredients and leave out those scary-looking green candied cherries (why, oh, why are they green?) and the pukey-yellow, chewy, confetti of candied citron (why, oh, why are they pukey-yellow and smell like grandmom's perfume?)

I know what you're thinking: This chick is crazy. Friends don't give friends fruitcake.

And, honestly, fruitcake doesn't get a bad rap - most of it is terrible. But when my book club recently read Truman Capote's short story "A Christmas Memory" - (Seriously, read it. It will touch your heart. Yeah, even you Grinchy Scrooges.) - I was so inspired by his descriptions of fruitcake baking that I wanted to give it a whirl.

The result was way better than I expected. (That's one of my fruitcakes in the photo to the right. I'm so proud!)

I used a fruitcake recipe from Rick Rodgers' "Christmas 101" cookbook as a guide and made several modern changes - namely I used a wide assortment of dried fruits (Sun-Maid Fruit Bits rock!), cherry-flavored dried cranberries (just say no to green cherries!) and spiced Captain Morgan rum, along with some brandy. Next I may use cognac and a mix of pecans and walnuts.

My concession to tradition was candied or glace orange peel. (I bought a $3.89 container at Janssen's Market in Greenville - that store carries just about EVERYTHING - and ate a few pieces BEFORE I tossed into the batter. I did like the sunny, citrusy flavor.) I also bought citron ($4.19) and absolutely hated the taste. No way was this going into my batter. I'm convinced citron may be one of the reasons why people hate fruitcake. I still have the container. Anyone want it?

My fruitcake baking began in earnest on Sunday. I baked five loaves in disposable pans, brush them while still warm with the rum, and brought several into work the next day, even though you're supposed to let them age for 24 hours. It didn't matter. Only crumbs remained.

We tried one loaf last night - serve it at room temperature - and it tasted even better than on Monday. I saved the last one for Christmas Eve, but I'm seriously considering baking more and then wrapping cheesecake soaked in rum and brandy around the cakes to give them more of a kick.

The nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves in the batter make the cakes smell and taste wonderful and the applesauce gives it some moistness. It's hefty, but not heavy.

There's no getting around this: If you don't like dried fruits and nuts, this is not the cake for you. But it is terrific with a cup of coffee or tea and I may even slather a loaf with orange-flavored cream cheese frosting.

Fruitcake is good food. Who knew? Let's start a fruitcake revolution.