Chef Julio is a winner

Wilmington chef Julio Lazzarini may have gotten "Chopped" last night on the Food Network, but he emerged from the TV reality culinary competition as a true winner.

Lazzarini, owner of Orillas Tapas Bar & Restaurant on Market Street, showed poise, professionalism, dedication and respect for his craft. He made Delaware's culinary community extremely proud.

It was a pleasure to watch the 34-year-old, a student of nuevo Latino cuisine who once trained under celebrity chef Douglas Rodriguez, calmly move in the kitchen and perform with grace under pressure.

Lazzarini stayed true to his food, but he also thought fast on his feet. There was no trash talking from the chef - just a clear, steady aim to cook the best food he could.

At one point, Lazzarini said he was "definitely feeling the pressure of the clock." But he didn't let it show.

Indeed, his clear diligence even earned the admiration of judges Aaron Sanchez and Scott Conant, two very demanding chefs who are not often given to praise. They were clearly impressed by Lazzarini's talents.

"Chopped" is a TV cooking competition where four chefs are handed a basket of "mystery" ingredients that they have to turn into a meal in a short amount of time. At the end of each round, one chef is "chopped" until the last one standing collects $10,000.

The first round called for using beef shoulder (a tough cut that is better suited to long cooking periods), Asian fish sauce and canned pumpkin.

Lazzarini turned out a seared beef dish with a Korean inspired barbecue that Conant praised: "I think the sauce is special. The Korean barbecue was really tasty."

The second round required the use of flounder, watermelon, plantains and baby bok choy.

Lazzarini whipped up lemon glazed flounder. "Delicate, extremely flavorful," Sanchez cooed, though Lazzarini was chastised for having bones in his fish filet.

"You can tell he's trying very hard," Conant added.

Lazzarini moved onto the dessert round which called for a 30-minute dessert made with tomatillos, creme fraiche and plain doughnuts. Yowsa.

When competitor New York chef Marc Spooner sliced his finger - and began bleeding on the cutting board - it looked liked Lazzarini was walking away with the cash.

But the judges chose Spooner's doughnut fritters over Lazzarini's French toast inspired doughnut dessert.

Still, it was a very close battle and Conant said the two chefs were "neck and neck."

Last night, I dropped into Orillas before the show. Outside of the restaurant, Lazzarini was cooking a huge pan of paella for customers who had stopped in watch the show.

No amount of nudging or prodding would get him to tell us how he did, but Lazzarini had a huge smile on his face as he served up a wonderful paella made with mussels, clams and chorizo.

With Chef Lazzarini, it's all about the food. And that makes him - and his customers - winners.

Fishing for a good sandwich?

I dropped into the Wilmington Riverfront Market today for lunch and it was first day opening for the new Harry's Fish Market + Grill.

This is the new stall - across from Tokyo Sushi - which had been the former home of Lapp's Kitchen.

Xavier Teixido - who also owns the next door Harry's Seafood Grill - was overseeing the operations and executive chef David Leo Banks was behind the counter checking on all details, along with a slew of staff.

Teixido suggested I try the fried fish sandwich ($7.95).

It's an excellent sandwich. The white fish - (sorry, I started chatting and forgot to ask what kind!) - is breaded and fried crisp. It's served on a LeBus roll that's slathered with spicy Sriracha aioli and packed with snow pea sprouts, lettuce, tomato and onion. A pickle comes on the side. The fish was meaty, moist and very fresh tasting. I just inhaled it and I'm already thinking about what I just ate.

The menu includes fish and chips and coleslaw ($8.95), crabcake sandwich ($11.95), fried scallops and chips ($9.95); burgers and cheeseburgers range from $4.50 to $6.25. Hand-cut fries are $3.95.

Breakfast of beignets - 3 for $4.50 and New Orleans coffee ($1.50 medium; $1.95 large) is supposed to start tomorrow. Yippee.

This is a really nice addition to the market.

Attaboys all around.

Chopped or crowned?

Tune in to the Food Network on Tuesday to see if Wilmington chef Julio Lazzarini walks away with $10,000 or gets "Chopped."

Lazzarini, owner of Wilmington’s Orillas Tapas Bar & Restaurant, is one of four contestants on the food competition series that airs at 10 p.m.

"Chopped" challenges four chefs to turn mystery ingredients into a dish. According to the web site, the chefs are cooking with whole calamari, bison meat and ancho chilies.

Plates are judged on taste, creativity, and presentation.

After each course, a contestant gets "chopped" until the chef left standing collects the cash.

The show was taped in April in New York City and Lazzarini is sworn to secrecy about the outcome.

But he does have a viewing party planned Tuesday at the Market Street restaurant. Call 427-9700 for more information.

Ameritage Bistro closed

Word on the street is that Ameritage Bistro at Ninth and Orange streets in Wilmington, has closed its doors.

The previous restaurant at that location - Brandywine Brewing Co. - lasted about six months.

Reader Mail

Happy Friday. Is that the sun peeking out? I hope so. These endless days of gloomy rain are getting way too much for me. If I wanted Seattle weather, I would live in Seattle.

I hope your weekend is filled with food and fun. I'm heading to Philly to check out some new places, hoping to fit in a visit to Chifa, Jose Garces new Peruvian/Chinese eatery, among them. I'll fill you in next week.

Onto the mailbag. You ask. We answer. Every Friday. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.


QUESTION: I have read a few of your online Q&As and would like to poke around your brain using your trained palate :o) One way I like to relax is to watch a few of the foodie shows on Bravo and Food Network who show me actual dining experiences, as well as, cooking techniques for many dishes that I would so love to experience.

Now, having said that, I was wondering if you have any suggestions for places near Wilmington which could potentially have some of the fantastic menus presented on such shows (i.e., Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives for one). I am so very hoping that there are some places that I can experience clean flavors, using homemade foods and fresh ingredients...with a little twist of the chef's own flair thrown into the mix.

I must admit that I have stopped trying new places after many failed attempts and would so love to find the drive to want to give some local places another chance. Some circumstances that have caused the lack of interest in Wilmington area restaurants I've tried have been pretension and pretty much food lacking flavor and warmth delivered to me at prices not worthy. I don't think that asking for a delicious, unique, warm, friendly and CLEAN environment to enjoy a nice meal should be viewed as unreasonable.

Again, I must admit that I have stopped trying and am hoping that you may have a few suggestions to bring me back around to wanting to give the area another try *smile*

I will say that the most enjoyable meal and service I have experienced in the past 3 months was at Pomodoro Ristorante Italiano. My friend and I asked to order off the menu for dishes that the Head Chef considered his favorite to make. We simply asked the server to ask him what dish(es) he enjoys preparing the most. The experience was divine and warming. Now...I'd love to know of others that can deliver the same ambiance and fine food. I am not saying I want everyone to serve me off menu *smile* The experience was just a lovely one, and I know there HAVE to be others to which I am not aware.

Thank you for letting me pick your brain a bit. I look forward, hopefully, to hearing from you :o)

Lora

ANSWER: Hi Lora. Thanks for reading. I am not sure how to answer this question. I'm not much of a fan of "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives." Mostly, it has something to do with host Guy Fieri, whom I can only take in very tiny doses. And I'm glad that you had such a good experience at Pomodoro, but I'm honestly a little confused because the Union Street restaurant is none of the above - diner, drive-in or dive. That said, I've recently become enamored with Sovana Bistro near Kennett Square, Pa., which I believe should cover your requirements for fresh ingredients and local flavors, but again, it's not a diner, drive-in or dive.

When it comes to diners, I do like Lucky's Coffee Shop on U.S. 202.

QUESTION: Sometime ago you (or someone at The News Journal) reviewed a BBQ place in (or around) Kirkwood. It was only open during the weekend, I think.
Is there anyway to search the archives.? If not, you you have any knowledge of this place.

Thank you,
John Ramsey

ANSWER: John, you're in luck. Eric Ruth has a story today about several BBQ places. Here's the link.

And here are a few other BBQ places that we listed in our Biggest 55 Hours section which ran last month.

QUESTION: Hi Patricia, I need your help. I love the spezzato sandwiches they serve at the Italian festival. I have searched the internet high and low and can not find a recipe, I am not sure if it is a local dish. Do you have a recipe or know where I can find one. Thank you very much for your help.

Kevin Cuff


ANSWER: Kevin, I forwarded your request to our longtime food columnist Nancy Coale Zippe who hunts down reader requests for recipes. She does have a recipe and will print it very soon in an upcoming column that appears every Wednesday in The News Journal. Buon appetito.


QUESTION: Hi Patricia,

I'm writing to see if you happen to know any good local restaurants in the area that offer Snapping Turtle Soup? As a kid, we frequently enjoyed soup at the Lynnhaven in New Castle. Bookbinders used to offer it , and I remember the Canal House did as well. I'm curious if you happen to know any local establishments that offer the soup still? I know many people are scared off by the thought of eating a turtle, but after watching The Turtle Man video on YouTube, I figured it was time to ask the pros.

Also, does Port Penn still have the Marshland festival? In HS I volunteered at the event, and there were tons of great recipes available for sampling at the event, but that was over 10 years ago now.

Thanks in advance.

Justin Thomas

ANSWER: That's a head scratcher Justin. Turtle soup is something that you used to see on old-school "continental" restaurant menus, but I haven't seen it in a long time. But I did check out the dinner menu at the Mendenhall Inn off Rt. 52 in Mendenhall, Pa., just over the Del. state line, and - lookie, lookie - snapper soup is offered. Here's the link.

I don't believe the marshland festival is still going on. I remember checking around about it a while back when we were hunting down places to eat muskrat - a dish that I don't ever wish to eat again.

Riverfront Market exit

Another one bites the dust.....

P&S Ravioli, which has been a part of the Wilmington Riverfront Market since it opened nearly 10 years ago, has shut down its stall.

A big white sign stretched across the deli cases thanks customers for their service. Some of the pastas will be sold at the City Market stall.

I hope they get a new vendor soon. Wilmington's indoor market doesn't rival the carnival of sights and smells found at the Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia or Baltimore's Lexington Market.

Comparisons between the three urban markets probably aren't fair because Wilmington's Riverfront Market is a much, much smaller version of those other gastronomic bazaars

Reader mail: UPDATED

Hey, all. I'll be out of the office most of Friday in Sussex County.

Lots on the agenda, including sampling spinach - yes, spinach! - ice cream. I plan to chase it down with a few other flavors, namely one called - wait for it, wait for it - "Better Than Sex."

Did that grab your attention?

Exactly.

I'll fill you in on greater detail in Wednesday's Life section.

IN OTHER NEWS:

- Eric Ruth checks out area meat markets in Friday's "Taste" column. Butcher shops, that is. Sorry. Maturity isn't one of my strengths.

- Beer and wine sales in Delaware grocery stores? I hope so. That was one of things I liked about living in the D.C. area. One less trip can be very nice.

- Venice in Wilmington? OK, this I have to see since Venezia is one of my favorite cities. Are you ready for a bellini?

- Just saw a funny Craig's List Help Wanted ad: "Need breakfast cook and line chef at very busy downtown Rehoboth restaurant. Must be a morning person, hard worker and team player. Drama free, please."

- New pho restaurant - Pho Cali on Kirkwood Highway next to the Pathmark is supposed to be open NOW.

- And finally a reader called and asked about the short recipe for tzaziki (Greek yogurt sauce) that ran in last Wednesday's Life section. No, dear reader, it did not have garlic. That was a recipe from Food Network star Ellie Krieger, whose version is different than what some think of as traditional tzaziki. But here's a recipe with garlic. (Sorry, I didn't call you back - you didn't leave your phone number.)

Onto the mailbag. Remember: You ask. We answer. Every Friday. Email questions to me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

CIAO, VINCENTE'S

QUESTION: Hello Friends! After a year of retirement, we are proud to announce our Grand Reopening for the new Vincente's Restaurant! We are now located on 5914 Kirkwood Highway. [Just pass Del. Park and across from All Saints Cemetery.] Our phone number is 302-543-6451 to make reservations. You can also visit our website.
We look forward to seeing you!!!
Sincerely,
Vincente

ANSWER: Thanks, Mr. Mancari. OK, Vincente fans you know where to go for the Italian "talking menu" and tableside caesar salad.

TABLE FOR FOUR? YOU MAY HAVE A WAIT, SIR.

QUESTION: Hi, I thought I would relay a story. Three weeks ago, my wife and I went to Capers & Lemons at 6 p.m. for dinner with no reservations. When we got there, it was mobbed and we were told it was an hour wait. We left and dined elsewhere.

Last week, it was my wife's b-day and I asked her where she wanted to go and she stated, "Let's try that Capers & Lemons place again, but let's get reservations this time." I called them to make a reservation for 4 and was told over the phone they ONLY take reservations for tables of 5 and nothing less. 5? OK. I told the person over the phone that I thought this was a poor rule in a down economy. After speaking to my wife, she chose to go to Okura instead. (Japanese restaurant in Hockessin.)

The Okura meal was excellent and we spent over $200 on that meal. Needless to say, we will not be going to Capers & Lemons at all in the future. I have never heard of a minimum of 5 reservations rule. Is this new or common? We dine out fairly regularly and have never run into this. Love the column.

Bruce

ANSWER: Hi Bruce. Thanks for the email. Yes, I actually have heard of and been to quite a few restaurants that do not take reservations for parties of four and under. Why? I suspect it's because some people are very late for reservations, don't show up for reservations or bother calling to cancel if they can't make a reservation. A table held for a reservation is lost money for the eatery, especially if many other people are waiting. I guess the thinking is that a party of five or more has less of a chance of canceling. Since it opened, Capers & Lemons has been a very popular eatery. The times I've been there has always been a wait.

Glad to hear you had a good dinner at Okura. I'm a fan of their sushi.

Restaurateurs, care to weigh in about no-reservation policies?

TURKISH EATS BACK IN ELKTON, Md.

QUESTION: Hi, Pat. Love your column!

Wanted to share that we recently visited Cappadocia Restaurant in Elkton for lunch and were quite pleasantly surprised with both the food and atmosphere. (Although their website indicates differently, it seems that they're no longer at the former 1st State Diner on 896 - http://www.firststatediner.com/)

For appetizers we tried the Dolma, Hommos, Baba Ghanouj, and Tarama - yum! For mains we tried the lamb Shish Kebab and the Adana Kebab sandwich - both were delicious.

Having stuffed ourselves overly full with this visit, next time we plan to pace ourselves and leave room to try the Baklava and Turkish Coffee.

As fans of Turkish and similarly prepared foods, it's so nice to find a local restaurant that does this cuisine well. (We're also a little worried - we were the only ones in there for lunch - it would be so disappointing if they don't make it.)

E. Daniels

ANSWER: I remember reviewing this same restaurant - you don't say, but is it near the Wawa right over the Delaware state line? - a few years ago. I took some friends who are very familiar with Turkish cuisine and they enjoyed the food, especially the meze and "puffy" bread. But I recall the room was very short on decor - in fact, it had all the charm of a bingo hall. The eatery later changed hands and the food wasn't the same. Sounds like I need to revisit sometime soon.

Greek Festival underway

Had lunch today at the Wilmington Greek Festival - plenty of open outdoor tables - but inside the church, tables, covered with blue plastic tableclothes the same color as the Greek flag, were pretty full by about 12:30 p.m.

Lunch service starts at 11 a.m.

A few outdoor stands at the back of the Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church looked like they were selling food, but most of it could be found in the church basement. (Outdoor stands with gyros and souvlaki open around 4 p.m.)

Greek music blares through the speakers to get you in the mood. (Gotta wait until the evening for the dancers.) There's a mobile ATM machine from Wilmington Trust parked out front of the entrance on North Broom Street, just in case you forget to tap MAC. Parking on street was pretty easy at lunchtime, but there is a shuttle bus available.


In the church basement, you grab a tray and then go cafeteria-style through one of two lines where the church ladies will very generously load your plate. (I had to ask one very sweet grandmother type to ease up on the orzo after she spooned up two heaping helpings and was about to go for a third.)

A bar tended by the church guys includes Miller Lite draft ($4), Heineken and Greek beer (each $5), ouzo ($6) and Greek wine ($6.) And, yes, I did see a few people belly up to the bar at noontime for beers. (I have a feeling they weren't returning to work.)

Prices are more than reasonable - orzo ($2); Greek salad ($3) - my pal got it just to eat the hunks of feta; keftedes or little meatballs in tomato sauce, (3 for $3) are very good; dolamades, or stuffed grapes, had a nice lemony flavor and and were filled with beef and rice (3 for $3).

A square of spanakopita, or spinach pie, was very flaky ($2.50.) I only wish the top was a little more brown. There's also moussaka, pastitio, lamb, string beans and rolls and butter.

On Wednesday and Thursday, the basement food court will be serving stuffed peppers for $9 and on Friday, the special is baked fish with string beans for $9.

My lunch plate below, which included a 20-ounce bottle of water, was only $9. Good deal. Didn't see much in the way of dessert at lunchtime other than rice pudding, which I try to avoid at all costs. It's one of the few foods I never developed a taste for.

First look: Kooma Asian Fusion Sushi Bar

EDITOR'S NOTE: This isn't a review, per se, just a first glance at a new eatery.

Dropped into the new Wilmington Riverfront restaurant Kooma Asian Fusion Sushi Bar, 543-6732, after work yesterday with two pals.

Very cool place - at the corner of Harlan Boulevard and Justison Street.

The address is 400 Justison St. (It's near the old Kahunaville, if that's any help. There were also huge signs - and balloons - outside of the building.)

High ceiling, big sweeping bar (actually there are two bars -one is for sushi). Very white overall color scheme. Looks like there is a place for a DJ to set up equipment in one of the dining rooms.

It seems much like a place you'd find in Philly. Not many people yet - servers and sushi chefs were mostly standing around with little to do during our visit - but then the restaurant just opened.

The doors and windows were flung open and it was actually almost a little too warm sitting at the bar. (Gotta love that Delaware humidity!) Just when I wishing for some AC action, a cool breeze kicked in.

We dove into the martini menu and agreed that the $10 "French Whore" was the way to go. (And a couple of guys at the bar couldn't get enough of three chicks talking about "French Whores," which - get your mind out of the gutter, chuckleheads - is a combination of Grey Goose, Chambord, pineapple juice and o.j.

Very tasty drink, though the dirty-brownish color - hence the name, I guess? - leaves a lot to be desired.
A much more pretty drink is the Smooth Criminal ($11) - see my crappy cellphone photo above- a blend of Herradura tequila, Cointreau, lime juice, orange juice and a splash of cranberry.

The Stoli Razzle ($9) - champagne, Stoli Razberi, drop of grenadine and sugar around the rim of the flute - is a girly-girl drink, but, if truth be told, I preferred the other cocktails.

JUST A PRICE-SAVING FYI: During happy hour, appetizers and beer are 40 percent off.

We skipped the sushi [this visit] - and shared the appetizer sampler ($22 normally, $13.20 during happy hour) a combination of chicken yakitori (skewers), edamame, tempura, negimaki (grilled sirlon steak wrapped around cream cheese and scallions), and three crab shumai. Chicken was a little overcooked, but the negimaki and shumai were very good. You get a huge bowl of edamame.

I also ordered the tuna tataki ($11 normally, $6.60 during happy hour) - tuna seared and sliced - served with a side of ponzu sauce which was perfectly fine, though nothing I'd brag about eating.

I'm interested in working my way through the menu during another trip - entrees range from $15 to bibimbab and tofu teriyaki to $37 for twin lobster-scallop hibachi dinners.

Nigiri is priced per piece - $3.25 for tuna, "special" rolls can go as high as $22 (that's the lobster tempura roll.)

Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat. includes $12 sushi lunch - six pieces of sushi or sashimi and a choice of a California or tuna roll. The Kooma combo ($9) includes a choice of two rolls.

Reader Mail: UPDATE

Lewes as a culinary destination? You betcha. From the Lewes Dairy to the (fairly new) Agave Tequila Bar & Mexican Grill, the sleepy Sussex County resort has much to offer.

Read it here.

Restaurant critic Eric Ruth is using his noodle - and sampling some too- in his Friday Taste column.


Capers & Lemons gourmet market opened today.
The market at 301 Little Falls Drive (in the Little Falls Park off Centerville Road) is open Mon-Sat: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; and noon to 6 p.m. Sunday. Call 256-0524 or visit http://www.capersandlemons.com/.

UPDATE: Looking for your dream job? Frank Bruni is putting down his fork after five years as The New York Times restaurant critic. Bruni is a cool cat. We had an email exchange a few years back after someone dissed him in an interview I was writing. I had to contact him for a comment and he was very gracious. Not all foodies were psyched about Bruni's reviews when he first started - and YOU try following in Ms. Ruth Reichl's footsteps - but he began to grow on me in recent years. The search is now on for a new paid eater. Hmmmm......

Now onto to the mailbag. Keep reading to see what inquiring minds want to know. Remember: You ask. We answer. Send your emails to me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

A GOOD RESTAURANT FOR A SHOWER

QUESTION: Hi Patricia! I would love to have your suggestions for a bridal shower. I am planning a shower for my sister, who will be getting married on New Year's Eve at the Hotel du Pont. I would like to keep the guest list between 40 and 50 women. I have contacted a few places and have received their menu suggestions. I love reading your blog and I always agree with you. I thought you would have some good ideas! Thank you for your help. Kim Boessman

ANSWER: A New Year's Eve wedding sounds like a ball. And at the Hotel du Pont. What a fun evening! Kim, I'm not sure what your price range will be - and how close the shower's date will be to the wedding. And do you want to stay in or near the city? But.....the new Pizza by Elizabeths is a very cute/girlie space that is sure to please. If the ladies like the idea of small plates and sangria, you certainly can't go wrong at Orillas Tapas. Deep Blue should also easily be able to accomodate you - and it's right across from the Hotel. Or Krazy Kat's in Montchanin is another option.

FIREBIRDS SHARES A RECIPE

QUESTION: Hello Patricia,

There was a request a few weeks ago from one of your readers for Firebirds tortilla slaw recipe. There was an article online saying they really wished we and another local restaurant would share our recipes. It was written by a staff member other than you, but I can't seem to find that article anywhere to find her name. I sent a post saying we'd be happy to share it, but have not heard back. Do you happen to know where I can email that recipe or would sending it to you be the best route? Thanks for your help.

Tyler Fray

Director of Marketing

Firebirds Wood Fired Grill

ANSWER: Thanks Tyler. The request ran in Nancy Coale Zippe's column and it appeared on Wednesday, along with the recipe.

THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE IS A MEAT MARKET

QUESTION: Just a comment; Del Frisco's of Philadelphia has the best atmosphere for relaxation including music (contemporary jazz), aesthetics (European architecture as if in a coliseum or amphitheatre) and the food is good too.

Carolyn

ANSWER: Thanks for the tip, Carolyn. Philadelphia has certainly been seeing a steakhouse boom in recent years. I have heard many good comments about the new Butcher & Singer.

But not everyone is a Del Frisco fan. Here's a review from Philadelphia Inquirer critic Craig LaBan.

NEW HOME FOR THE BBC

QUESTION: Good afternoon! I just read your blog and was excited to read about the BBC Tavern and Grille opening in the summer. Do you know where it will be located? Any other information you can pass along would be great. Thank you. Steve.

ANSWER: Steve, I wrote a story on May 13 about David Dietz moving into the former Pizza by Elizabeths space for his BBC Tavern and Grille. Here's the link. I just talked to David today and he says the response about his restaurant comeback in Greenville has been amazing. The opening is scheduled for July. Stay tuned.

CALIFORNIA FRIEND WANTS GOOD EATS


QUESTION: An old friend, who formerly lived in Chadds Ford, Pa., is coming to town for one evening (he now lives in Marin County, Calif.) I want to take him someplace special for dinner and since he is staying in Chadds Ford, I thought of Brandywine Prime. He is quite a wonderful cook, and I know he loves crabcakes but I see that the crabcakes there are made with jumbo lump and claw crabmeat. What's with this, do you know? Claw meat?

I would take him to the Farmhouse, which he really liked when he lived here, but I was disappointed in their crabcakes a few months ago. (Realizing of course, that no place makes as good a crab cake as G and M in Baltimore!)

Any suggestions for a super meal? (Not just based on crabcakes, though). We eat out a lot, and you would think I could come up with a place! But I want it to be really special.

Thanks, J

ANSWER: According to Michael Majewski of Brandywine Prime, the crab cakes are made with claw meat because "it has a lot of flavor. That's why we use it." The crab cakes are 75 percent lump crabmeat and 25 percent claw meat.

What about Sovana Bistro, 696 Unionville Road (Rte. 926) in Kennett Square, Pa.; (610) 444-5600? Foodies are always raving about owner Nicholas Farrell's food - a French-Mediterranean combo - and his seasonal menus. It's a BYOB, but now they also have a wine list.

I've always like the Blue Pear Bistro, 275 Brintons Bridge Road (Old Wilmington Pike), (610) 399-9812. But make sure you call for reservation - both are very popular.

What's new

I'm very, very late with the post today. It's been "one of those days" - reporting needed to be done, stories written, and, well, just other stuff.

I just now looked up and noticed it's way after 5 p.m. Gotta get going soon. There's a pair of running shoes and a track waiting for me. (Training for a 5K, my first!, is in full swing.)

OK, so I couldn't keep an interview today with Chris Lilly of the award-winning Big Bob Gibson's Bar-B-Q Team- but LUCKILY my esteemed colleague Gary Soulsman stepped in for me.

(Thanks, G. I owe you one.)

Gary's story on Q - and recipes from Chris's book (photo to the left) is coming next week, just in time for Memorial Day.

And look for Chris Lilly's appearance tomorrow on the Today Show.

In other news:

Had a terrific dinner recently at Harry's Seafood Grill on the Wilmington Riverfront. We sat outside and it was a perfectly beautiful night - cool, but not cold; no humidity. Is this really Delaware??

I was torn between oysters and tartare of big eye tuna and hamachi ponzu with wasabi and wakame - and finally went with the tartare. The landlubber with me looked at it with interest - especially the wonderfully crunchy chips served on the side- and was ready for a big bite until I mentioned tartare and hamachi were raw. (Well, kind of raw, the acid in ponzu "cooks" the fish.) Yeah, well, raw was a big n-o. I always forget there are people who don't like sashimi or ceviche. Just more for me.

My server suggested the pan-roasted escolar (about $23) and he was so spot-on. The fish's flesh, when cooked, is snowy-white and slightly sweet.

The landlubber - no big surprise - went with Harry's surf and turf - or braised prime short rib of beef and crabcake with California slaw.

Anne Hood, Harry's sommelier, suggested a great Viognier that paired very nicely with the escolar.

Reader Mail; UPDATE

Will we ever see the sun again? All this gloomy weather reminds me of the Ray Bradbury short story: "All Summer in a Day."

Anyone read it?

I'm having a mini freak-out - I'm serving 12 people dinner tonight at my house and still have a lot of cooking to do (and I'm here at work.) Good thing I bought a selection of cheeses from Janssen's Market - thanks for helping me, Mrs. Janssen - and a white chocolate mousse cake from Liz Marden's Gourmet Cakes.

I have finally, finally, finally, realized that I don't have to cook or make every single thing I serve. Anyway, these are my book club buddies who are very forgiving - and probably won't mind it I don't vacuum the entire house as long as I serve good wine - and the main focus will be on our book. I highly recommend "The Tender Bar" by J.R. Moehringer. It's about how a Long Island bar shapes a man's life - but it's about so much more.

IN OTHER NEWS:


- Friday's Taste column is all about casual eats - I stop into Qdoba Mexican Grill in downtown Wilmington and the Villa di Roma in Philadelphia's Italian Market. We also recap the posts from Food DOGs Peter Bothum and Jeff Gentry about the Soprano sandwich and Wawa flatbreads. I'll have a link as soon as the column is posted. UPDATE: Here's the link.

- According to its Facebook page, Capriotti's is coming to Los Angeles. Eighty stores are planned over the next 10 years, starting this year. Holy Bobbie, Batman!

- Remember, every Friday is Reader Mail. (Well, it's early today.) Got a dining question you want answered? Ask and ye shall receive. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Onto the mailbag:

UNION CITY GRILLE DESERVES A CLOSER LOOK

QUESTION: Dear Ms. Talorico,

I read your "Encore! Encore!" article this morning and wish you had devoted more of it to what Matthew Curtis is doing at Union City Grille, especially since, unlike the upcoming BBC Tavern, it is actually in operation.

As you know, Union City Grille has undergone several iterations since opening in terms of price point and focus of the menu (ownership aside), and it has always been okay, sometimes really good, sometimes just stable. I was there this past Sunday for the first time since Curtis took it over last September and, although it's hard to make a declaration based on one experience, what he is doing is really high quality. I asked him what he's trying to do with the restaurant, and he said he wants great ingredients, simply prepared -- "food the way it ought to be" were his words.

Our dinners were excellent; I had pan-roasted scallops with almond basmati rice and a red curry sauce, and it was pretty much perfect -- just delicious. My husband had the Sunday night special Italian three-course prix fixe menu -- he chose for his first course a winter Caparese salad (w/ roasted tomatoes) and as his entree a veal spezzato over fettucine that was just delicious. And I am pretty tough critic when it comes to food.

Curtis also is partnering with Moore [Brothers] on the wine list. While we really only studied the by-the-glass list, one thing we really appreciated is the selection of French and Italian wines, since there are some of us who still prefer the food friendliness and more moderate alcohol levels of those wines. (Of course, one would expect that from a partnership with Moore [Brothers], but still ...)

Since there was no mention in today's article of The News Journal having reviewed the restaurant since Curtis took it over, I thought I write and suggest that you do.

I believe Curtis has a good thing going.

Best regards,
Diane Shomper



ANSWER: Thanks for the email Diane. I can't share when a News Journal critic will stop in a restaurant for a review, but I can say that Union City Grille in on the radar.

MEZZA LUNA OR VILLA DI ROMA?

QUESTION: Pat - I'm craving good Italian. I've been to Villa Di Roma [in Philadelphia] many times but have been considering going to Mezza Luna on Eighth Street in Philly. Correct me if I'm wrong, since I've never been to Mezza Luna, but my understanding is that they are both "spaghetti with red gravy" type places. Which one, in your opinion, is better?

ANSWER: Both are Italian - but very different Italian restaurants. Villa di Roma is more red gravy than Mezza Luna, which is Roman style, and a little more pricey. I do like Mezza Luna and have been there several times. Here's what I had to say a while back: http://www.delawareonline.com/blogs/secondhelpings/2007/08/king-tut-and-egyptian-cuisine.html

I also think you can bring your wine there. But call to check. 215-627-4705.

I like Villa di Roma (my NY friends LOVE it) and had a great time, but, if truth be told, I'd pick Mezza Luna over Villa.

CAN YOU CATCH SWINE FLU FROM FOOD?

QUESTION: Patricia, Can the swine flu be passed on through food prep? And should we be concerned with fruits and veggies or any other food coming from Mexico?

Thank you
Chuck

ANSWER: According to the Centers for Disease Control: No.

H1N1 viruses are not spread by food. But here's a link to the CDC site that should answer all questions.

KOOMA COMING SOON

QUESTION: Hello. Anybody know any updates about Kooma in Delaware. Is it open soon?
Thanks!

Cindy

ANSWER: Advertisements say it's coming soon. Here's some info from The News Journal archives ....BUT I don't have an opening date yet. I'll post it as soon as I do.

Restaurant owners Scott Kim and John Jang have a 10-year lease to take 5,200 square feet in the Justison Landing project being developed by Buccini/Pollin Group Inc. of Wilmington.

Kooma will be located in the heart of a 10-building complex in the Town Center, according to Kevin H. Grubb, residential development manager with Buccini/Pollin.

It will be housed in a building,, closest to the former Kahunaville nightclub, Grubb said.

The restaurant will have sushi and martini bars, as well as private rooms. There's a Kooma in West Chester. It's located on West Gay Street and was given the best new restaurant award for 2004 by Main Line Today magazine, according to the West Chester Business Improvement District.

There is a third Kooma in Columbus, Ohio.

Second Acts

Does absense make the heart grown fonder?

Apparently it does in the restaurant industry.

David M. Dietz, owner of the popular Brandywine Brewing Co. in Greenville, is making a return to the business after stepping away from his brewpub nearly five year ago. That's David (pink and white shirt) in the photo to the right, along with executive chef Mark Doto, who plan to open the BBC Tavern & Grill later this summer.

And Matthew Curtis of Union City Grille in Wilmington came back to the stove after leaving three years ago to become an investments advisior.

The fast-paced, long hours (and long nights) of the industry can become an addiction that's hard to kick.

Here's my story today.

City Restaurant Week: Harry's Seafood Grill

EDITOR'S NOTE: Hey Second Helpers, this is our last City Restaurant Week review. To read reviews of all 10 participating eateries, click on the City Restaurant Week label at the bottom of this post.

By GARY SOULSMAN

It's possible to enjoy being born with a tongue.

That's how I felt after leaving Harry's Seafood Grill, after lunch at the riverfront restaurant.

I recommend going there to care for your taste buds, too, especially if they've been smacked around during Restaurant Week.

My mouth had been so man-handled by strange food concoctions it was feeling sheepish when I dragged it into a banquette under Harry's big starfish ceiling. As I waited for my friend to arrive, I noted a condo looming in the distance. And I told myself this was a new day.

The menu gave me reason for hope - two-course specials were part of the stylishly printed menu, not a casual insert. And I saw that Harry's wanted me to sense I was getting a deal - the prices added to more than $15 (what I would pay) when ordered individually.

I liked the psychology of this, just as I liked the muted red wall next to me and the silvery wall fish arranged in an abstract design.

As my friend Jerry settled in, we confessed to our waitress that we couldn't decide what we wanted and we intended to annoy her with questions. She was amenable, though my companion felt that, if she were able to speak about the dishes with greater precision, the ordering could have gone more smoothly.

"Someone with experience who really knows a menu can do that," he said. I thought he had a point. And while I was pleased with the warm crusty bread that arrived to staunch our hunger, he was less delighted.

He would have liked it better had the bread been crisper and less, well, all-American spongy. I smiled, studying the butter, arranged on what looked to be a clear picture frame.For me, nothing was wrong - the butter was fresh! - and I felt even more contented when the appetizers were set down.

Jerry had ordered spicy Bahamian conch chowder and we both allowed as how conch could be rubbery, if overcooked. But tomatoes and spice and carrots and conch combined so as to satisfy us, as the chowder heated the back of the throat. I ordered three small asparagus, wrapped in smoked salmon, and they were cooked perfectly and served with a zesty caper relish. A mound of accompanying arugula came with dressing that was buttermilk thick and buttermilk bland. And so what? It looked great and I wolfed it down.

So we moved our elevated hopes to the next course. Jerry ordered thin grilled slabs of salmon and sourdough bread, all tucked atop even thinner slices of Canadian bacon or prosciutto.

We couldn't decide. "I've never had salmon with salty meat before and I like that a lot," Jerry said. "Salmon can be awfully bland at times."

I dug into fried cod served on butter lettuce and micro greens. The fish that has fed the world fed me. It was nicely crisped and bathed with pickled lemon dressing and lightly heated mayonnaise or aioli, if you prefer.

Could all this happiness really be happening?

Not willing to settle for two well-prepared courses, we moved to dessert and Harry's signature Italian ice cream. A big white bowl of chocolate truffle macadamia gelato was worth every calorie. And isn't that how we count in the mirror?

So I say...it's Restaurant Week at Harry's Seafood Grill: What's there to complain about?

City Restaurant Week: Mikimotos

By PATRICIA TALORICO

I couldn't really tell how the City Restaurant Week menu was going over with the Wednesday lunch crowd at Mikimotos Asian Grill & Sushi Bar.

I suspect that most people come to Mikis for the fresh fish and interesting Pan-Asian dishes - and, frankly, they don't really care about a bargain meal.

It's simply a fun place to eat. The food is consistent, the dining room modern, the service very good, and, during my visits over the years, I have seldom found the dining room empty.

Yesterday was no different. (And I'm very glad we made a reservation.)

The City Restaurant Week menu ($15 for two-courses) is pretty straight-forward: You get a choice of a beef lettuce wrap consisting of shaved, lightly seared filet mignon, crispy shallot and nuoc cham dipping sauce or a sea scallop dumpling over shredded carrot and radish in truffle soy dipping sauce or shrimp summer rolls with vermicelli, spring vegetables, lettuce and peanut and key lime dipping sauces.

The second course: Create Your Own Maki Platter.

Whoa. Back up a minute. Make your own maki - as in play sushi chef for the day? Does that mean getting behind the sushi bar and wrestling with sharp knives, raw fish, nori strips, rice, wasabi and sesame seeds?

(Hey, I'm off the clock! Don't put me to work. I'm going out to lunch so someone else makes my meal.)

Relax. This isn't a roll-your-own operation. A server will hand you a piece of paper and you circle a selection of fillings and fish which include several offerings such as salmon, tuna, cooked shrimp, wasabi mayonnaise, vegetables, avocados, etc. The sushi chefs will then take the selections and create a platter. Now, that's pretty cool.

A crab "salad", tossed in a mayonnaise based dressing, comes on the side. I took a couple of lackluster bites, but it didn't really pique my interest. I did enjoy the first course beef lettuce wraps - I'm pretty sure there were four on a plate - and I'll never turn down nuoc cham, the Vietnamese dipping sauce that's made with salty (and some say stinky) fish sauce.

So how does the restaurant week lunch special compare with the regular menu offerings?

Well, my pal looked at the Restaurant Week specials and decided she didn't feel like eating any sushi. She opened the regular menu and ordered the shrimp miso soup ($5) and the lettuce cup chicken ($11).

Her lunch was one buck more than my $15 City Restaurant Week meal.

Just an FYI: We each got a drink - Diet Coke ($2) and iced tea ($2). Refills are free. Total bill: $35, not including tip.

Me and three degrees of Martha

I probably should have posted earlier, but I was a guest this morning on"Morning Living", a Sirius Satellite radio program on Martha Stewart Living Radio hosted by Kim Fernandez and Betsy Karetnick.

(Nope, no Martha. And I didn't get a chance to ask if Ms. Stewart would be attending Point-to-Point this year - as she was a few years ago in this photo taken with George "Frolic" Weymouth.)

During a segment called "The Dish" we chatted about food and dining in Delaware, mostly in Wilmington.

I was actually getting ready to write a blog post reminder when the show called - about 15 minutes earlier than expected - so sorry no heads-up.

It was a pretty free-wheeling conversation.

We chatted about Delaware subs - Capriotti's and Casapulla's; Little Italy red-gravy places (including Attilio's and Madeline's); Woodside Farms Creamery; the Hotel du Pont's Green Room and pastry chef Michele Mitchell's luscious desserts; City Restaurant Week; Moro restaurant; Domaine Hudson and their outstanding wine selections; burgers, milk shakes and sundaes at the [original] Charcoal Pit; the chicken barbecue stands in Sussex County; slippery dumplings and chicken; Janssen's market; and breakfast at the Kozy Korner, among other things.

It was a swift 10 minutes or so and there was so much more I could have - and wish I - said. (It's very eye-opening to have the tables turned and be the one answering the questions instead of being the interviewer.)

IN OTHER NEWS:

Our reviews of City Restaurant Week continue.

Coming soon: Mikimotos and Harry's Seafood Grill.

City Restaurant Week: Cafe Mezzanotte

EDITOR'S NOTE: City Restaurant Week continues through Saturday. Keep reading Second Helpings for more reviews. Staffers will be grabbing tables at all participating eateries.

By PETER BOTHUM

The bread that's offered at a restaurant is kind of like a handshake.

On one hand, it's simply a gesture and a free, non-binding formality. Then again, it does provide a first impression of what's to come.

So what happened before an otherwise tasty two-course meal at Cafe Mezzanotte (1007 S. Orange St.) was kind of a bad moon rising. If its offering of bread was indeed a handshake, the hand awkwardly missed its target and fumbled clumsily into the person's rib cage.

When my dining partner and I sat down, no bread was to be had. Drinks were ordered and delivered, a specific request was made, and still no bread. Meanwhile, it seemed like all the other diners in the restaurant were soaking slices in generous amounts of oil and enjoying every tasty morsel in their mouths - I think I could hear an adult film soundtrack playing in the background.

The bread finally arrived, and, of course, it really wasn't that good. But Mezzanotte rebounded with the first course, which had us thinking that maybe that early harbinger was nothing. Cheese and tomatoes paired up in a circle around the greens and carrots and drizzled oil in the Italian Mozzarella Salad. The Pasta e Fagioli soup was surprising in its depth of bean-and-tomato-led flavor.

But then the Omen of the Bread came to fruition. Our waiter offered many apologies and made several "it's up next" visits, but it took a good solid 45 minutes for our lunch to come out (they did make up for the faux pas with complimentary desserts). Probably just a mix-up in the kitchen, but if Mezzanotte is going to score the lunch breaks of downtown workers, that's not going to cut it.

If, however, owner/chef Sergio Pellegrino can build his lunches quickly, they will come for the masterful blends of flavors. The Polpettoni pulled together hearty meats (ground chicken, ham, salami) and generous amounts of mozzarella.

Meanwhile, every bite of the gourmet pizza had something different to offer, depending on what combination of mozzarella, red peppers, eggplant, artichoke hearts and bacon bits (the real stuff!) your mouth found. And, in all honesty, this pizza beat the life out of the $15 mini-pizzas at Pizza By Elizabeths. Yeah, I said it.

One critique here: On one of the slices, the crust at the end was slightly crispier, and if the whole pizza was made that way it would have been insanely good.

City Restaurant Week: C.W. Harborside

EDITOR'S NOTE: City Restaurant Week continues through Saturday. Keep reading Second Helpings for more reviews. Staffers will be grabbing tables at all participating eateries.

Coming soon: Cafe Mezzanotte and Harry's Seafood Grill.

By BETSY PRICE

If bland food and odd flavor combinations are your bag, rush on down to C.W. Harborside for its City Restaurant Week specials.

There's the odd-tasting crab and corn chowder. And the overcooked pan-seared Atlantic salmon with a honey and dried currant glaze that fights it out with the gloppy lemon-flavored risotto on the side.

A much anticipated Pureland Premium Black Angus filet panini with grilled portobello mushrooms, onions and sharp provolone was sizeable, but not flavorful. And we generally expect sauteed spinach to not be primarily sauteed yellow squash with a few leaves of spinach thrown in. (But we gotta say, the squash was the best thing we had.)

I can't remember ever being this disappointed in a restaurant. I had been looking forward to going to C.W. Harborside, a Wilmington Riverfront eatery I've never been to, but also never heard anything bad about.

We dined late, arriving at 1 p.m., and perhaps the lateness of the hour contributed to our dismal dining. Did we just get leftovers while attention had already turned to dinner?

We were one of only three tables in the restaurant for the second half of the meal.

At least we had a cheerful, personable server in Tim.

City Restaurant Week: Deep Blue

By PATRICIA TALORICO

I've had up and down dining moments at Deep Blue over the years, but last night's meal had many memorable highlights.

The full dining room had an upbeat, lively vibe - on a Tuesday night! - which manager David Talmo (who spotted me as soon as we were seated) said is not unusual since the restaurant is popular with business travelers staying downtown.

"But you can definitely tell it's Restaurant Week," he said. (A few tables around us, however, seemed to be ordering off the regular menu.)

City Restaurant Week is a time for restaurants to shine - they're often welcoming back customers who may not have grabbed a seat in the establishment in some time, as well as putting on a show for newcomers.

It surprises me when eateries don't step up to the plate with awesome, well-crafted food. Keep customers happy and they'll be back for more. (And they'll tell their friends.)

Deep Blue's menu doesn't disappoint. I took along two pals who hadn't been to the 11th Street eatery in some time and they were excited by the offerings on the three-course, $35 fixed price meals. There are four choices for the first and second courses and three dessert selections.

Just so you know: There's no substitutions on the Restaurant Week menu. And, for some reason, we were told we had to order the dessert at the same time as the appetizers and entrees.

Our favorite first courses: crispy, fried oysters with tomato pickle relish and Old Bay aioli and the chicken Farinette, a sophisticated version of chicken croquettes with sweet Gorgonzola, schmears of spicy Buffalo sauce and minced celery.

The romaine and radicchio salad with roasted scallions and crushed pistachios was dry and didn't seem like it was tossed with enough Gorgonzola dressing. (I kept sneaking more bites of oysters and chicken.)

Since Deep Blue is known for its seafood - that's where we kept our allegiance. The pan-seared Delaware Rockfish with roasted fingerling potatoes, braised artichokes, saffron aioli had a beautifully seared skin and moist interior. Better still was the crab cake filled with sweet lump meat and served over a bed of roasted asparagus, crimini mushrooms and cherry tomatoes.

The flavor of the grilled salmon was good as was the mustard spaetzle, but the fish tasted slightly overcooked - and may have been sitting under a heat lamp for a spell. The red wine Portobello sauce had mostly dried on the plate when it arrived at the table.

While we dipped spoons into the Chocolate Grand Marnier Pot au Creme and pretty much ignored the ho-hum fresh berries served with whipped cream, the Guinness Stout gelato was the hands-down favorite dessert of the table. I initially ordered it out of journalistic curiosity, but was quickly seduced by its light chocolate and malty flavors and creamy texture.

I'll be back for more crab cakes and gelato - and isn't that what City Restaurant Week is all about?

City Restaurant Week: Ameritage

EDITOR'S NOTE: City Restaurant Week continues through Saturday. Keep reading Second Helpings for more reviews. Staffers will be grabbing tables at all participating eateries.

Coming soon: Deep Blue, Mikimotos and Cafe Mezzanotte.

By ERIC RUTH

At a time of year when the two-faced spring climate conspires to create a transition phase in our appetites, a place like Ameritage Restaurant & Lounge seems to understand our dilemma.

Fresh, light, bright Latin-esque tastes fill the menu of this cooly hip center-city refuge, but a few options also heed our need to stoke the fires with more substantive food.

Take the earthy (and somewhat underseasoned) black bean soup, unmistakably hand-crafted and brightened by accents of a pork pate "crouton." Or consider the excellent skirt-steak wrap, given just enough beany/chewy starchiness and snappy herbal presence to accent the beautifully charred beef.

Perhaps partly because of the need to keep costs under control, the Restaurant Week menu here is infested with freshly dressed lettuces and crunchy raw veggies, even in the main dishes -- an inclination that suits the time of year (and our waistlines), but may be inclined to result in vegetative overload, depending on your choice.

Arugula and kohlrabi salad with cilantro vinaigrette would satisfy most folks without such a massive foundation of mashed avaocado, and there's no need to throw a pile of lettuce next to the excellent smoked chicken sandwich with bacon and apple -- especially when we've probably already had our first-course salad.

The solution is easy -- ignore any excessive green-ness, and enjoy how Ameritage shows a remarkable hand at balancing tart-light flavors. A sweet-snappy-light character lifts several dishes.

In the case of the smoked chicken sandwich, that fresh character is countered well by a nicely toothy grilled roll -- though that same roll threatened to overwhelm the somewhat dry fried-shrimp Po-Boy sandwich, which cried out for more of the creamy sexiness its yellow-pepper aioli promised.

Bottom-line sentiments pronounced Ameritage's efforts highly worthy of exploration, though next time, we'll take another course.

We'll definitely sit upstairs -- where everybody seems to gravitate. We'll also hope for maybe a bit more sass and fire. And we'll definitely promise ourselves to try this under-appreciated downtown gem more often.