Top Chef returns

The Bravo series returns on Wednesday night. Judges Tom Colicchio and Padma Lakshmi had a conference call last week to talk about the program, now in it's fifth season.

By PATRICIA TALORICO

The News Journal

Tom Colicchio isn't bored by wacky molecular gastronomic cooking techniques.

Yet any of the 17 contestants who want to win "Top Chef: New York" had better back away from the truffle oil.

Colicchio, head judge of the Bravo TV cooking series that premieres at 10 p.m. Wednesday night, said there are no real culinary "deal breakers" for him.

"This season, we see some very basic, but well done food," he said by telephone from Los Angeles.

But, Colicchio adds, "the ingredient I don't want to see? Truffle oil. Mostly because there's no truffle in there at all."

Cookbook author, actress and "Top Chef" host Padma Lakshmi agrees.

"I really roll my eyes at truffle oil," she said during a conference call last Friday. (According to a 2007 New York Times article, most commercial truffle oils are flavored with a lab-created chemical compound and not the real and rare fungus.)

Guest judges appearing on the fifth season of the Emmy and James Beard Award-winning cable series this season include Jacques Pepin, Lidia Bastianich, Eric Ripert, Martha Stewart, and, weirdly enough, Foo Fighters frontman Dave Grohl.

Colicchio said episodes this season have all been filmed, except for the finale which will take place in January at as yet unchosen location. Previous seasons had been set in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Miami and Chicago.

This year, taping took place in and around New York City - home for both Lakshmi and Colicchio.

Being on their home turf had both benefits and drawbacks for the judges.

Lakshmi said she usually gains about 10 to 15 pounds over the course of the series. "The amount of food consumed is staggering," she said.

But this time, Lakshmi said she could keep the creeping pounds at bay by working out in her own gym. "I gained less weight this season because I was at home," she said.

However, Colicchio, who has lost 20 pounds since the first season of "Top Chef" began in 2006 – "Tom is probably better at taking small bites than I am," Lakshmi joked – actually found it more difficult to be close to home.

"We'd go back to our regular lives once we left the set. It was hard to get back into the mindset of the show," he said.

The format of the series this season remains the same. Contestants compete first in a "Quickfire Challenge" and and then in an "Elimination Challenge" before heading to the judges' table, where the best and worst dishes are decided and losers pack up their knives and depart.

The winner gets the title of Top Chef and $100,000 to start a restaurant.

The biggest change this season is the addition of judge Toby Young, a British food critic and author.

"He was brash. He was opinionated. He was very witty. You know his book was ‘How to Lose Friends and Alienate People’? He lived up to that," Colicchio said.

Young replaces food writer, cookbook author and former "Queer Eye for the Straight Guy" star Ted Allen.

Colicchio said that, since Allen's Food Network series "Food Detectives" was recently renewed, he could no longer be a part of "Top Chef."

"They [the Food Network] have a policy that they can't do our show,” he said. On his blog on Ted Allen.net, Allen wrote "I've had enviable luck, in my opinion, at getting away with judging food on two competing networks over these past five seasons of "Top Chef" and "Iron Chef America." But I knew all along that if I ever got a larger presence on some other show, I was going to have to commit to one network or another.

"Food Network, it is!"

So, if truffle oil is the way to lose on "Top Chef," what’s the secret to winning?

"Think before you charge into the challenges," Lakshmi said. "Taking that few minutes to compose an idea and think 'How can I hit this challenge out of the park?' "

Colicchio is even more straightforward: "The strategy to winning is making great food."

Waffles, anytime

OK, so you can get breakfast anywhere, and it's a lot cheaper to make it at home.

But until recently, Delaware could not enjoy the friendly confines of the Waffle House, open a thankful 24 hours a day.

Where can you find a Waffle House? Unfortunately, the closest options we have up north are Middletown and Elkton, Md. The one in "New Smyrna," as I like to call it, is a godsend when coming home from a late sports assignment downstate (such as, football).

New Smyrna, by the way, is my name for all of the development along Route 13 on the southern end, though a fair amount of these newly constructed shopping centers are empty. Wow, just like all the empty shopping centers we have up here.

Anyway, why is Waffle House better than the rest of the breakfast places? The service. It's quick. Like, lightning quick, compared to at least one other national chain known for being open 24 hours and serving breakfast (here's a hint, it rhymes with Lenny's). Sure, I'm usually not at Waffle House when it's busy. But, I've also been there when it has been, and the wait staff and cooks there do a great job when it's time to hustle.

My order is usually one waffle (they have big waffles), sometimes with chocolate chips, bacon and white toast. You can't get an English muffin there for some reason. Oh well.

There's a Waffle House in "New Camden," as well, where development also booms along Route 13, tacking on 5-10 minutes to the drive through that area. Hey, maybe we should build a long, north-to-south highway that covers the length of the state, and has a nice, convenient hook up to major regional roads such as Interstate 95, U.S. 301 and maybe even U.S. 50.

Uh, never mind. DelDOT can't even plan a proper cycle for the new stoplight at Milltown Road and Route 41, an intersection that needed that light for, oh, for about 20 years.

Big food, good deal

Hope you had a good weekend. I stopped into the Booth's Corner Farmers Market over the weekend - just over the Delaware line in Boothwyn, Pa. - and was amazed at the crowds.

It's been a while since I've been there and forgot what a wonderful market it is, especially if you looking for some fun food finds.

Don't miss Cajun Kate's which offers everything from a gumbo of the day to jambalaya to po-boy sandwiches. There's only counter seating available, so take-out isn't a bad idea here.

More is coming soon about Cajun Kate's food. Stay tuned.

Also, consider the carved roast beef sandwiches at Chamberlain's Roast Beef. They are out of this world terrific. If you're a meat lover, then you're going to love Chamberlain's. The stall has a big seating area - with tableside service - as well as counter seating.

The hand-carved beef is medium rare, thick, but not too thick, and stacked high on soft rolls. It comes with a side of au jus. There are little jars on the table of horseradish, pickled sweet peppers and jalapenos to jazz up the sandwich. It's a real deal for only $6.50. Carved roast pork sandwich are also $6.50 - but it's buy one, get one free. You can't beat that bargain.

Look for more on Chamberlain's in an upcoming food story I'm working on now about food values - big portions at lower costs.

Reader Mail:UPDATE

Good Friday everyone.

This day has already been jammed packed. I was at a press conference at the Food Bank of Delaware. They've started a statewide initiative to raise 300,000 pounds of food and $250,000 beginning today through Feb. 28. that will aid more than 350 social services agencies this winter that are already running short of resources.

The nonprofits want to encourage businesses, schools and organizations statewide to run food drives

Demand for food, shelter and heating assistance this year has increased between 25 to 50 percent from 2007.

Later today, I also have a conference call scheduled with some people from "Top Chef" which premieres on Bravo TV on Wednesday.

Crazy day.

Keep the mailbag full and email me your dining questions at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

You ask. We answer. Every Friday.

Here are today's letters:

QUESTION: Good morning,

I was wondering if you were familiar with a small shop that use to be near the University of Delaware in Newark that made fresh kielbasa. Not sure if it is still there or the location address. If they are still in business would you forward their address or telephone number.

Have a great week.

Regards,

Jim Keebler


ANSWER: Jim, I've been scratching my head since I got this letter and I can't recall the shop you're writing about. I know you can get fresh kielbasa from the Delaware Provision Co. in Wilmington's Browntown neighborhood. Here's the address: 318 Eighth Ave, Wilmington; 429-0220.

But I don't know of the shop in Newark.

Readers?

UPDATE: A reader below  reminded me about Herman's Quality Meat Shoppe, 64 E. Cleveland Ave.; 731-5344. It reopens Nov. 18. See comment below for more information. 


QUESTION: Dear Ms. Talorico,

When I lived at New York, often times I can eat a simple roll (spicy tuna/salmon, california roll and the like) for lunch from the local deli. If I go out to dinner I'll get some actual sushi (yellowtail, tuna, salmon...). I just moved to Delaware six months ago, and now I am craving sushi. I know that raw or hard-to-get fish is pricey, not only because there is so little of it out there, but also because of transportation costs from New York to Delaware. The fish itself must be of the highest quality- clean and healthy- because if it is sick, it'll make the person who eats it sick!

I really don't want to taste around and then find the one I like in the area. Paying for gas and pricey food, ouch! Would you be able to recommend couple Sushi Restaurants? Thanks!

Diana

ANSWER: Diana, in no particular order, I like Mikimotos in Wilmington; Masamoto in Glen Mills, Pa.; the Cultured Pearl in Rehoboth Beach; Okura, 703 Ace Memorial Drive, Hockessin, 239-8486; and Kyoto in Pike Creek,



QUESTION: Just wanted to let you guys know, if you hadn't heard already, that La Rosa Negra restaurant in Lewes is no more. It's now known as Cirelli's, which I think is the name of the owner. I don't know if anything besides the name is changing - just drove by today and saw the new sign.

ANSWER: OK, thanks. I'll let you know if I get more information.



QUESTION: Hi Patricia - I grill quite often, and I feel T-Bone steaks are the hardest steak to judge doneness. I feel your pain. The last time I grilled T-Bones, I gave them an additional 2-3 minutes of cook time than usual for medium rare. The finger test doesn't seem to work with these steaks. You need to feel the tension of a medium for a medium rare steak. So, that is why I am grilling rib steaks tonight, and enjoy a bottle of red wine while watching the Phillies WIN!!! Love your blog!! Keep up the great work!! Take Care!! Sue

ANSWER: Thanks, Sue. Readers, just a note: Sue sent the above note after I whined about my inability to properly grill a T-bone. It always turns out too rare. Someone told me to buy an instant read thermometer. Which I have. And always forget to use when grilling.

New location for Lapp's

Grabbed a quick sushi lunch today at Wilmington's Riverfront Market. While waiting for my order, I looked over at the now empty stall once occupied by Lapp's Kitchen.

It has moved to the former Corner Market space on King Street in downtown Wilmington.

Here's a strange, Twilight Zone twist: When I got back from lunch, an email was waiting for me.

The City of Wilmington is holding a ribbon cutting ceremony and grand opening for Lapp's Kitchen on Friday morning at 10:30 a.m.

Here's the highlights from the release:

After eight years in operation at the Riverfront Market, Lapp's Kitchen owner Chuck Parkhill moved his business to 901 N. King St.- the site formerly occupied by Corner Market.

The larger, 3,200 square-foot space has enabled Parkhill to expand his hours of operation (Monday through Friday, 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.) as well as his menu offerings and corporate catering services. The restaurateur has also applied for a liquor-license and plans to serve beer and wine in the near future.

Lapp's Kitchen employs 7 full-time employees and offers full-service breakfast and lunch menus, with plans to eventually expand to a dinner service as well. Parkhill describes his menu of gourmet sandwiches and salads as "Delamerican," or contemporary American cuisine with a local twist.

(EDITOR'S NOTE: NO CLUE what "Delamerican" means, but I love it when restaurant guys make up their own words.)

Lapp's Kitchen also features prepared meals, fresh-baked desserts, and a wide selection of corporate catering options, including "corporate-to-go" service (full meals prepared and delivered to local businesses with an hour's notice).

Jack's Jumble: Favorite photo of the day

News Journal photographer Jennifer Corbett often takes many of the food/restaurant shots for the paper. But she recently went from shooting mess halls to shooting one big mess.

In the image above, Corbett captured Jack Markell working at his makeshift desk at his campaign headquarters in Wilmington's Shipyard Shops the day after he was elected the new Governor of Delaware.

Are "sweeping" changes coming soon?

Proud to be a Delawarean

If you've lived in Delaware for any length of time, you get used to the ribbing....

There's the wheeziest of the wheezies: "Dela-where?"

And that other tired saw: "Delaware? What state is that in?"

One of my favorite lines came from Food Network boob Tyler Florence, who when we were talking about Delaware, said to me: "Oh yeah, I've been to Baltimore before." (Huh? I still have NO idea what the hell he was talking about.)

But a lot of people are geographically challenged. I get it. And when you live in a tiny state (that's still not as small as Rhode Island) you just get used to it.

Once, in the Bahamas, I told some guy I was from Delaware and he said "Wow, that's a state you never hear about."

No more.

Love him or hate him - Joe Biden made Delaware history last night. (And, oh yeah, so did Barack Obama.) Pretty damn cool.

The photo above comes from my colleague Rhina Guidos. She said a friend from the Newseum in Washington, D.C. , took it. Look closely and you'll see The News Journal's "Yes, We Can" front page.

It's one of 50 on display at the Newseum's Pennsylvania Avenue entrance.

Ox on white, a Sussex County tradition: UPDATE

UPDATE: Vice-president elect Joe Biden will be attending Thursday's Return Day celebration.

If you're in Georgetown today, lift your nose in the air and breathe deep.
The aroma of smoky, slow-roasted beef around the Sussex County Courthouse and The Circle the day after an election has been a Delaware tradition since at least the 19th century.

Sometime around 10 this morning, Mark Pettyjohn and his crew of workers will begin hauling out about 500 pounds of charcoal and firing up three cinderblock open pits.

Then, for the next 24 hours, they'll roast roughly 2,200 pounds of beef for Return Day, on Thursday.

The day isn't just about celebrating the political winners -- and giving a conciliatory pat on the back to the losers. It's about getting one of those free beef-on-white sandwiches.

More than 1,400 sandwiches are handed out during the festivities. The crowd this year is expected to reach at least 30,000 people. (Organizers say it's always higher after a presidential election.) The parade steps off at 1:30 p.m. Ox roast sandwiches are served after the returns are read from the courthouse balcony at 4 p.m.

The carnival atmosphere has been a part of Georgetown's Return Day since as early as 1792. While a town crier announced the results of an election, the area around the courthouse featured booths serving up opossum, rabbit, fish and oysters, as well as cakes and candies. Beginning in the 19th century, roasted ox sandwiches were served to the gathered throng.

Some of the food traditions remain unchanged, but the ox roast has been tweaked.

"Well, it's not an ox. It's steer now," says Pettyjohn, who has been tending to the roast beast every Return Day since the mid-1990s.

The ox roast committee once only barbecued bulls, but no longer.

"It was a mess. Everyone was just suckin' in a lot of smoke," says Pettyjohn, who now roasts 10- to 15-pound chunks of meat.

The cooking technique was changed in 1990 after a fire broke out in the shed where two bulls were being roasted the day before Return Day. Firefighters reportedly used foam to extinguish the blaze, making the meat inedible.

A decision had to be made, or there would be no free sandwiches. Pettyjohn says the cooking crew purchased quarters of beef.

"It was easier and it cooked a lot faster and you got more meat. From then on, we got quarters and rounds," Pettyjohn says, but adds that he still buys one steer to roast on a spit to maintain some sense of tradition. The beef is purchased from the Haass Family Butcher Shop, in Dover.

This year, the pit is set up on South Race Street, next to Domino's Pizza. You can smell and see the beef roasting tonight as three bands begin playing 6-11 p.m. for a street dance.

Don't ask for a slice or sandwich just yet.

Pettyjohn and his crew will be babysitting the meat until it's time to slice and serve it on Thursday.

Throughout the night and into Thursday morning, the crew will mop the beef with a homemade basting sauce.

"They make up their own recipe for the sauce. They don't divulge all the ingredients," says Rosalie Walls, president of the Return Day committee.

But Pettyjohn will say that the sauce includes vinegar, crushed red pepper, Texas Pete hot sauce, poultry seasoning, salt, pepper and a few other ingredients. The taste, he says, is similar to the barbecue sauce that's slathered on barbecue chicken sold at roadside stands operated by local VFW organizations and fire companies in Kent and Sussex counties.

"But we delete the egg," Pettyjohn says. He says the fiery red Texas Pete hot sauce provides the kick.

"We put it in a 5-gallon bucket and we mop it on all night, every 15 to 20 minutes or so. It's like a regular, old-fashioned mop. We let it drip on and splash."

Sandwiches are served to "anyone who wants one," Pettyjohn says. "It goes from 45 minutes to an hour. You're constantly handing out sandwiches."

Pettyjohn will give the beef a few taste tests during the barbecuing, but after tending the fire, mopping and standing near the pit for more than 24 hours, he'd rather eat anything but an "ox" sandwich.

"It's kind of like afterward I don't want to even want to see a hamburger," he says.

Guess that's another Sussex County ox roast tradition.

Finding pizza

Last week, weaving my way home from Easton, Md., after covering a field hockey game, I decided to take a different, and longer, way back north just to drive somewhere I hadn't been before.

It led me to Cafe Tamburelli's in Greenwood (that's in Delaware, if you didn't know) and the result was a discovery of some very good pizza, with spicy sauce, the right amount of cheese (which means there was no skimping) and a soft crust that gets crunchy at the end.

Be sure to check this place out, only a half-mile off Route 13 in Greenwood (3 West Market St., 349-9700). They feature all the normal offerings of an Italian restaurant, and have an extensive pizza menu that includes Chicago-style stuffed pizza and a super-large 28-inch pizza, presumably for parties. Go to http://www.cafetamburelli.com/ to learn more.

In a note on desserts, the Chocolate Pastry Delights from Papa John's are outstanding, especially if you like chocolate. Served hot out of the oven, these are better than the Chocolate Dunkers from Pizza Hut. Next time you order from Papa John's, add the pastry delights as a treat, and try not to get addicted.

Mac and cheese and freebies

Hey all, hope you had a great weekend.

I had a comfort food Sunday - made an adult-style macaroni and cheese in between the football games - that not only cleaned out my refrigerator, it was pretty damn good too.

While I cooked whole wheat penne al dente, I made a fast bechamel sauce out of butter, flour, milk, some heavy cream, white wine and chicken broth. (It was really "a little of this, a little of that.")

Then, I chopped and tossed in all the cheese leftovers from my fridge - everything from asiago to fontina to farmhouse cheddar to swiss cheese - and threw in two chopped fresh tomatoes (the last from a friend's garden.) While rooting around the veggie bin, I also came across a remaining half bag of fresh baby arugula. In it went.

A couple of slices of leftover rye bread was tossed into a food processor for bread crumbs and then I mixed the crumbs with olive oil, salt, pepper and paprika to top the mac and cheese.

Baked in a buttered oval pan at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes and then served up cheesy, gooey, crispy goodness to rave reviews.

It was a delicious "who's-counting-calories?" kind of meal, so tonight I'm eating soup for dinner.

IN OTHER NEWS: I'm thinking about writing a story on some "freebies" you get at restaurants - such as the toffee you get at the end of the meal (along with the bill) at Pizza by Elizabeths; the pickled mushrooms recently brought to the table at Harry's Savoy Grill; and the popular macaroon at the Hotel du Pont.

Can you think of other places that hand out freebies?

Let me know at ptalorico@delawareonline.com or comment below. I'll check it out.

Thanks.