Monday, June 29, 2009

Frozen falafel

New York City's annual Fancy Food Show is underway now through Tuesday. I was scheduled to attend the show - that is, until recent illness unfortunately curtailed my activities. So no roaming the Javits Center which features something like four football fields full of 140,000 plus specialty food/beverage products.



(This show is always a crazy food circus - Chicago chef Rick Bayless who just won last week's Top Chef Masters competition was making tacos there yesterday! - and I'm pretty bummed to be missing out on the activities.)



While this is no substitute for attending the show, I will share a new product that I just tried from Veggie Patch, one of the fastest growing brands in the $300 million meat alternative retail market.



OK, so I'm not much of a frozen food fan, but I enjoyed the new Falafel line, which is fully cooked, spiced chickpea balls. (Three meatballs are about 80 calories.)


The meatballs, which are frozen or can be refrigerated, are flash fried and oven baked. You just zap 'em in the microwave and eat in a pita or as a side dish or appetizer. No artificial ingredients and trans-fat free.


I've topped them with a homemade tzaziki (Greek yogurt with shredded cucumbers) or hummus. Tahini also is good. It's a quick, good lunch or light dinner.


You can find Veggie Patch Falafel at Acme Market, Costco Wholesale, Pathmark and Shop Rite.

Chopped or crowned?


Tune in to the Food Network on Tuesday to see if Wilmington chef Julio Lazzarini walks away with $10,000 or gets "Chopped."

Lazzarini, owner of Wilmington’s Orillas Tapas Bar & Restaurant, is one of four contestants on the food competition series that airs at 10 p.m.

"Chopped" challenges four chefs to turn mystery ingredients into a dish. According to the web site, the chefs are cooking with whole calamari, bison meat and ancho chilies.

Plates are judged on taste, creativity, and presentation.




After each course, a contestant gets "chopped" until the chef left standing collects the cash.


The show was taped in April in New York City and Lazzarini is sworn to secrecy about the outcome.

But he does have a viewing party planned Tuesday at the Market Street restaurant. Call 427-9700 for more information.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Soup cures all

Hellloooo. I finally feel like I'm ready to be back among the living after more than a week of being under the weather. Still in a slower than I'd like to be recovery mode, but one of the best things I've had to lift my spirits and soul was a restorative bowl of pho.

I'm a pho (pronounce it fuh) fanatic. My heart still remains with Pho 75 in Philadelphia - a truly great and cheap soup joint near the Philly Italian Market - but recently there have a few worthy contenders in Delaware - FINALLY - to slurp up this delish Vietnamese beef noodle soup. Woo-hoo, it's about time.

Here's a place I've written about before in Bear.

And I just had a bowl of pho at the new Pho Cali on Kirkwood Highway next to the Pathmark store in Kirkwood Plaza Shopping Center (same one as Kohl's, A.C. Moore, etc.)

Not much atmosphere here - it's barely diner-esque - but I was pretty happy with this soup that you eat with chopsticks and a spoon.

Big bowl of pho is $6.95. (Only one size.) My taster is still a little off, but, from what I could tell, the beefy broth, made with onions, scallions and perhaps a touch of star anise, is very good.

I got the rare flank steak pho - they also have pho with meatballs, tofu and chicken (but to me that's not really pho which is traditionally made with beef stock.) The flank steak seemed like a combo of steak and fatty tendon - which I pretty much left in the bowl - so next time, I'm just ordering the rare steak.

The accompaniments on the side - bean sprouts, limes, basil and jalapeno were all fresh, crisp and plentiful. The rice noodles are a little thin, and I don't believe they're handmade - but this is still a very good and inexpensive meal for under $8. There's a kicky red chili sauce on the table that's worth dotting in the soup if you want some added heat, along with the usual hoisin and Sriracha.

Friday, June 26, 2009

No reader mail today

Sorry everyone, I still don't feel well enough to dig through the reader mail bag or write indepth updates.

But I should be back on Monday.

In the meantime, uh, Michael Jackson. Shock-o-roni. "Thriller" was the soundtrack of my life in the early 1980s.

And we should have a story in tomorrow's paper about MJ's visit to the Brandywine River Museum back in 1985.

The pop star loved the Wyeths and got a personal tour of the museum by Jamie and the late Andrew Wyeth. Then, he had lunch at Big Bend, the Chadds Ford, Pa., home of George "Frolic" Weymouth, founder of the museum and president of the Brandywine Conservancy.

Weymouth, who may be best known to many as the man who leads the carriage procession every year at Winterthur's Point-to-Point races, also took Jackson on a carriage ride along the Brandywine River.

Oh to have been a fly on the wall that day!

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

I'll be back


Hey foodies,

Unfortunately I've been down-and-out for the past few days and won't have a new post until Thursday or Friday. But, please, come back. I have so much to share!

Chifa, Jose Garces's new Peruvian-Cantonese eatery at 7th and Chestnut streets in Philly, was an amazing experience - oh, those pisco sours! oh, the pork belly buns! - and Zahav, modern Israeli off Dock Street (just off Walnut between 2nd and 3rd streets) in Old City, which we stopped into for a few more nibbles, more than lived up to the hype.

(We got extra special treatment at Zahav after one of my pals, who speaks Turkish, enchanted some staffers from Istanbul.)

Both are MUST visit eateries. Well worth the drive to Philadelphia. More is coming.


In the meantime, nosh on my Diner's Digest column. The Aloha Dark Chocolate Bark (see photo above) available at Moore Brothers Wine Company in Trolley Square is terrific.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Ameritage Bistro closed


Word on the street is that Ameritage Bistro at Ninth and Orange streets in Wilmington, has closed its doors.

The previous restaurant at that location - Brandywine Brewing Co. - lasted about six months.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Reader Mail

Happy Friday. Is that the sun peeking out? I hope so. These endless days of gloomy rain are getting way too much for me. If I wanted Seattle weather, I would live in Seattle.

I hope your weekend is filled with food and fun. I'm heading to Philly to check out some new places, hoping to fit in a visit to Chifa, Jose Garces new Peruvian/Chinese eatery, among them. I'll fill you in next week.

Onto the mailbag. You ask. We answer. Every Friday. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.


QUESTION: I have read a few of your online Q&As and would like to poke around your brain using your trained palate :o) One way I like to relax is to watch a few of the foodie shows on Bravo and Food Network who show me actual dining experiences, as well as, cooking techniques for many dishes that I would so love to experience.

Now, having said that, I was wondering if you have any suggestions for places near Wilmington which could potentially have some of the fantastic menus presented on such shows (i.e., Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives for one). I am so very hoping that there are some places that I can experience clean flavors, using homemade foods and fresh ingredients...with a little twist of the chef's own flair thrown into the mix.

I must admit that I have stopped trying new places after many failed attempts and would so love to find the drive to want to give some local places another chance. Some circumstances that have caused the lack of interest in Wilmington area restaurants I've tried have been pretension and pretty much food lacking flavor and warmth delivered to me at prices not worthy. I don't think that asking for a delicious, unique, warm, friendly and CLEAN environment to enjoy a nice meal should be viewed as unreasonable.

Again, I must admit that I have stopped trying and am hoping that you may have a few suggestions to bring me back around to wanting to give the area another try *smile*

I will say that the most enjoyable meal and service I have experienced in the past 3 months was at Pomodoro Ristorante Italiano. My friend and I asked to order off the menu for dishes that the Head Chef considered his favorite to make. We simply asked the server to ask him what dish(es) he enjoys preparing the most. The experience was divine and warming. Now...I'd love to know of others that can deliver the same ambiance and fine food. I am not saying I want everyone to serve me off menu *smile* The experience was just a lovely one, and I know there HAVE to be others to which I am not aware.

Thank you for letting me pick your brain a bit. I look forward, hopefully, to hearing from you :o)

Lora

ANSWER: Hi Lora. Thanks for reading. I am not sure how to answer this question. I'm not much of a fan of "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives." Mostly, it has something to do with host Guy Fieri, whom I can only take in very tiny doses. And I'm glad that you had such a good experience at Pomodoro, but I'm honestly a little confused because the Union Street restaurant is none of the above - diner, drive-in or dive. That said, I've recently become enamored with Sovana Bistro near Kennett Square, Pa., which I believe should cover your requirements for fresh ingredients and local flavors, but again, it's not a diner, drive-in or dive.

When it comes to diners, I do like Lucky's Coffee Shop on U.S. 202.

QUESTION: Sometime ago you (or someone at The News Journal) reviewed a BBQ place in (or around) Kirkwood. It was only open during the weekend, I think.
Is there anyway to search the archives.? If not, you you have any knowledge of this place.

Thank you,
John Ramsey

ANSWER: John, you're in luck. Eric Ruth has a story today about several BBQ places. Here's the link.

And here are a few other BBQ places that we listed in our Biggest 55 Hours section which ran last month.

QUESTION: Hi Patricia, I need your help. I love the spezzato sandwiches they serve at the Italian festival. I have searched the internet high and low and can not find a recipe, I am not sure if it is a local dish. Do you have a recipe or know where I can find one. Thank you very much for your help.

Kevin Cuff


ANSWER: Kevin, I forwarded your request to our longtime food columnist Nancy Coale Zippe who hunts down reader requests for recipes. She does have a recipe and will print it very soon in an upcoming column that appears every Wednesday in The News Journal. Buon appetito.


QUESTION: Hi Patricia,

I'm writing to see if you happen to know any good local restaurants in the area that offer Snapping Turtle Soup? As a kid, we frequently enjoyed soup at the Lynnhaven in New Castle. Bookbinders used to offer it , and I remember the Canal House did as well. I'm curious if you happen to know any local establishments that offer the soup still? I know many people are scared off by the thought of eating a turtle, but after watching The Turtle Man video on YouTube, I figured it was time to ask the pros.

Also, does Port Penn still have the Marshland festival? In HS I volunteered at the event, and there were tons of great recipes available for sampling at the event, but that was over 10 years ago now.

Thanks in advance.

Justin Thomas

ANSWER: That's a head scratcher Justin. Turtle soup is something that you used to see on old-school "continental" restaurant menus, but I haven't seen it in a long time. But I did check out the dinner menu at the Mendenhall Inn off Rt. 52 in Mendenhall, Pa., just over the Del. state line, and - lookie, lookie - snapper soup is offered. Here's the link.

I don't believe the marshland festival is still going on. I remember checking around about it a while back when we were hunting down places to eat muskrat - a dish that I don't ever wish to eat again.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

First look: Vincente's

EDITOR'S NOTE: This isn't a review, per se, just a first glance at a new eatery.

I've been curious about the new Vincente's on Kirkwood Highway since getting notice several months ago that Vincent Mancari was relocating his Italian restaurant to Library Plaza across from All Saints Cemetery. It opened earlier this month.
A good many of the dishes are under $20, though the veal and steak can creep up. I think the highest prices entree is about $27.

The restaurant has two separate dining rooms and a big bar in the middle. The night of our visit one of the dining rooms was about three-quarters of the way filled and the bar was busy.

Many servers are young and enthusiastic, almost too enthusiastic. Some swooped in and cleared away an appetizer and bread before we were finished eating and in the process removed our knives and never replaced them. After trying to in vain get someone's attention for replacements, we finally snatched some utensils off another table.

Our very friendly waitress brought us each an "amuse-bouche" of what I believe she called "Flounder Vincente" - one of house specials - that she says the owner likes to share with all his customers. It had a nicely seasoned, crunchy exterior and the fish was moist. The small piece fish was put on a white plate sans garnish or any other flourishes, which is a first for me. It was exactly like giving someone a taste of something - as you would do at home. Interesting. Next came gratis toasted bread with an soft, orange cheese squeezed on the top - somewhat like mustard is squeezed on to a hot dog.

We didn't order the tableside Caesar made by Mr. Mancari - something my family often did when we visited Vincente's old Wilmington location. (The photo above is from The News Journal archives.) But many diners, some obviously longtime fans, knew this was the way to go. It's pure theater - something you don't often find in restaurants today. Servers roll a cart tableside and then the 78-year-old master salad maker starts by beating the wooden bowl with his salad tongs. He often chats up customers as he works his magic with romaine, anchovies, vinegar, oil and seasonings. The best part? Watching Mancari toss the locatelli cheese into the bowl from a distance. During our visit, he hit it with the accurancy of an NBA foul shooter to the delight of many diners.

My favorite dish was a shared appetizer of eggplant rolantine ($9.95) with sausage, cheese and spinach in a red sauce. I could eat a whole entree of this and would have finished the dish if an over-eager employee hadn't whisked it away.

The Veal Crab Louisa ($20.95) is a veal cutlet topped with cheese that also includes prosciutto, crab meat and mushrooms in a light white wine sauce. There were a lot of competing flavors on the plate that, after a few bites, become muddled.

You'd better be a big garlic lover when it comes to the shrimp scampi ($19.95). Our dish had several whole cloves dotted throughout. The dish came with a side of spaghetti with a sweet tasting red sauce that won't make me forget my mother's or grandmother's sauce anytime soon.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Riverfront Market exit


Another one bites the dust.....

P&S Ravioli, which has been a part of the Wilmington Riverfront Market since it opened nearly 10 years ago, has shut down its stall.

A big white sign stretched across the deli cases thanks customers for their service. Some of the pastas will be sold at the City Market stall.

I hope they get a new vendor soon. Wilmington's indoor market doesn't rival the carnival of sights and smells found at the Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia or Baltimore's Lexington Market.

Comparisons between the three urban markets probably aren't fair because Wilmington's Riverfront Market is a much, much smaller version of those other gastronomic bazaars

Food D.O.G.s: Kentucky Grilled Chicken


By Peter Bothum

You've endured the barrage of ads and billboards for KFC's new Kentucky Grilled Chicken. You read about the controversy where the chain offered free chicken and then had to turn people away because they didn't have enough.

But have you actually tried it?

I took the plunge this week and ordered up a two-piece meal for lunch.

At first I felt kind of sad about leaving my old fried friend behind - Mr. Original Recipe was there, waiting for me on the other side of the drive-thru window, and I turned my back on him like a modern-day Benedict Arnold.

As advertised, Col. Sanders has indeed taken off his devil horns and substituted it for a healthier halo. According to KFC's nutritional guide, the grilled version has 4 grams of total fat and 180 calories in a single breast, compared with 21 grams of total fat and 370 calories in the original recipe.

But that dirty old man is still hiding his pitchfork behind his back - that grilled skin is too tasty and just greasy enough to be totally clean. In fact, a breast of the grilled chicken only has 10 fewer milligrams of cholesterol than a breast of the original recipe.

I dug the grilled chicken. The flavor was reminiscent of Boston Market's chicken but definitely improved on what that chain serves up. The meat underneath the grilled layer was nice and moist, perhaps enhanced by the fact that the chicken wasn't fried.

In my opinion, however, the grilled chicken didn't measure up to the real deal.

The Colonel's signature recipe is there, but it's more of a nip of the KFC goodness instead of the typical power-packed punch. In other words, he can put his herbs and spices on a layer of grilled skin, but the classic recipe melds best with a fried, cholesterol-laced bedding.

It's kind of like a fan of Porter beer trying a Miller High Life or a cigarette smoker chewing Nicorette gum. The buzz is there, but it's just not the same.

On the upside, I didn't leave my meal with the typical regret that follows a visit with my old fried friend. I felt satiated but not sluggishly sorry, and I guess that's a good thing.

Final verdict: I go to KFC to get my butt kicked by the Colonel and his fried chicken, for better and for worse. If I want grilled chicken, I'll go to a cookout.