Brandywine Bistro

Eric Ruth chows down at Brandywine Bistro, Wilmington restaurateur Dan Butler's new place in Chadds Ford, Pa.

(It's next to his Brandywine Prime restaurant off U.S. 1 and Route 100.)

Photo to the right, taken by our own Bob Herbert, is the bistro's wonderful mussels and fries. (I love that dish!)

Here's the review.

Guava rum

I don't drink cocktails that often, but for a Fourth of July barbecue, I brought along a sample bottle of Cruzan Guava Rum, the first-ever guava-flavored spirit in the U.S.

Wow. This is good, easy sipping stuff. Rich, smooth and fruity. A party-goer at the barbecue, who is originally from Jamaica, also gave it high marks.

I put the bottle in the freezer, a la vodka, and was going to use it for daiquiris. But it was so smooth, we wound up serving shots to everyone. And that was before the dancing to the Best of the 70s hits began. On second thought, maybe that's what started the Best of the 70s booging.

Cruzan Guava Rum will be available at spirits retailers nationwide for a suggested retail price of $11.99 per 750 ml bottle. Cruzan Guava is the ninth variety in the Cruzan flavored rum family, which also includes Black Cherry, Coconut, Mango, Pineapple, Banana, Citrus, Raspberry and Vanilla

Here are a couple of drink recipes:

Guava Good Time
1 & 1/2 part Cruzan Guava
2 part mango juice
1 part apricot juice

Shake and strain over fresh ice into a highball. Garnish with a slice of fruit (guava, mango, apricot or all of them)

Cruzan Coral Reef
1 part Cruzan Guava
1 part Cruzan Coconut
2 part pink grapefruit juice

Shake ingredients and strain over fresh ice into a tumbler. Garnish with a grapefruit wedge.

News you can use

If you get a chance, read today's Diner's Digest column.

Lots of restaurant news.

Sussex County restaurateur Matt Haley tells us why he changed the name of the new Spiaggia in Rehoboth to Lupo di Mare, and new chefs at The Orchard in Kennett Square, and Domaine Hudson in Wilmington.

Also, I think the new Johnnie's Dog House on Concord Pike - opening very, very soon - will definitely be worth a look.

Smyrna diner on the move

Al Kemp has a really interesting story about the iconic Smyrna diner.

It's moving into a new location - still on U.S. 13 but closer to Del. 1.

Snack time

For today's "Regular Guy Grub" post, Buddy Hurlock goes on a search for a certain brand of cracker and corn chips:

Today's topic is not just about snacks. It's about how two of my favorite snacks are frustratingly hard to find.

When it comes to cheese-flavored crackers, I certainly don't mind Goldfish or Cheez-Its.

But my runaway favorite is Lance's Gold-n-Chees snack crackers, not to be confused with the Toastchee sandwich crackers.

Gold-n-Chees crackers are very hard to find in supermarkets, though I know of at least one that carries them, the Acme in Price's Corner. They're on the top shelf, halfway down the crackers aisle. Maybe some other supermakets have them, but two Acme stores closer to where I live don't, so it's not uncommon for me to spend my grocery money at Price's Corner just to get these crackers.

Other places that sometimes have them are gasoline station mini-marts and delis, but it can be hit or miss. I probably like Gold-n-Chees because they're on the salty side. But I just find it odd how these became an afterthought in the wide range of Lance products. They never seem to be in vending machines. Maybe their fragile nature make them a shipping and packaging nightmare.

Any others? Herr's Corn Chips. Yes, they make corn chips, too, and I don't mean their "BBQ" corn chips. To make things more frustrating, it's not that uncommon for me to see a bag of Herr's BBQ corn chips on sale. But the regular corn chips? Nooooo...

The quest to find these has even involved at least three family members, including an aunt and cousin (by marriage) who live in Lancaster, Pa. -- Herr's Country!

Herr's corn chips kick Frito butt, at least to my tastes. But I fear they are being phased out. The only time I usually see these on sale anymore is in the single size variety. Recently, I discovered that one of my favorite hot dog places, the Deerhead location in Christiana, had them and I was tempted to buy the whole case, like when Elaine did for a certain female product on Seinfield.

But, at least I knew they were there, and whenever I had craving for them, I knew where to go again. Until, that is, my latest trip there. Not only were they gone, but the BBQ version was on sale instead! Ugh! (Yes, I realize Elaine does not like the use of exclamation points)

Both of these products are available for online ordering. But if anyone wants to report sightings of either Lance Gold-n-Chees crackers or Herr's plain corn chips, or wants talk about similar struggles when it comes to finding favorite snacks, feel free. We'll talk another time about how hard it is to find the Monster Cereals.

It's all in the roll

Back in September, Second Helpings noted the sad passing of Lou Amalifitano.

Lou was the guy behind the fabulous rolls used for Capriotti subs - and other subs made at Grotto's, Seasons Pizzas and other area sub shops. (That's a photo of Lou taken by News Journal photographer Fred Comegys.)

That guy really knew his bread. He understood the science and chemistry of flour, water and yeast. He knew the difference between crispy and crusty.

Lou knew that a sub roll has to have a certain amount of softness in the interior to absorb the added oil, but also that the exterior must be crusty enough so that the sandwich doesn't become mushy.

Understanding the alchemy of good bread is extremely important to a sub.

The roll is literally the backbone of the sandwich.

Change the roll recipe and you have a completely different taste.

Not good. Not good at all.

Well the famed Amalifitano roll has been changed and the fall-out has begun.

Read Eric Ruth's story today.

Are you worried about the taste of Cap's subs? Can you tell a difference? Let me know.

- Patricia Talorico

Red, white and blue dish

It's OK to be kitschy on the Fourth. Here's a recipe that celebrates the colors of the stars and stripes.

Red Pepper, White Button Mushroom and Blue Potato Salad

Recipe courtesy of the Mushroom Council and mushroominfo.com
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 4

6 2-inch blue potatoes
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon salt
12 large white button mushrooms, halved
2 red bell peppers, cut into 2-inch pieces
4 cups mache or arugula lettuce
Preheat grill. While grill heats, boil water and blanch potato cubes for 5 minutes, then cut in half and set aside. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together oil, vinegar, mustard, rosemary and salt. Add mushrooms, potatoes and pepper pieces and toss to coat, then skewer individually, to create four skewers of each ingredient. Reserve the remaining marinade and grill vegetables until tender, turning once, about five to ten minutes total.
Split lettuce between four plates and place one of each skewer on top; drizzle with reserved marinade and serve either warm or cold.

Reader mail

Anyone out there? Anyone? Anyone?

Talorico here. Working the day before a major holiday sometimes feels like being the last person left on the planet. No one else is around. No one is answering their phone. Or email.

Only the lonely. Or the unlucky - like me - who are still plugging away for The Man on July 3 when what we really want to be doing is sitting under an umbrella on the beach with a frosty blender beverage in one hand and some creamy guacamole and salty tortilla chips by our side.

Soon, my food friends. Very soon.

Just to give you a heads-up. In Friday's 55 Hours, you can read my review about Terrain at Syter's Garden Cafe on Baltimore Pike in Concordville, Pa. (Right across from the Shoppes at Brinton Lake.)  UPDATE: Here's a link to the review. I think this very cute cafe inside an air-conditioned greenhouse at the garden center is worth a visit. (That's a photo of a couple getting cozy at the cafe by staffer Tyler Orsburn.) The short menu (only 7 to 8 items) offers farm-fresh contemporary country-style dishes. Caveat: It's not the cheapest brunch or lunch you'll ever find. If you want a Denny's style "big breakfast" - this is NOT the place for you.

But until then, I present Friday's usual feature - Reader Mail - a day earlier. The topic today: the former Caffe Bellissimo.

Old restaurants are like old soldiers, they never really die, they just fade away......

Keep the emails coming. You ask. We answer. Every Friday. (Unless, of course, a Friday falls on a holiday, and then, well, yadda, yadda, yadda.....)

QUESTION: Hi Patricia,

First of all, I LOVE your blog. It is so informative!!!

Hoping you can help me. I think I remember reading that the former owners of Cafe Bellissimo on Kirkwood Highway had opened a place in Pennsylvania. True? If so, could you please tell me the name and where it is located. Have you been? I would kill for their quattro fromage dish, mmmmmmmm.

Thanks a bunch,

Stacie

ANSWER: Stacie, thanks for the kind words. (Can you tell the Boss Man? Talorico wouldn't mind a salary boost to fund all her "my dime, my time" restaurant hopping and European travels. Kidding, kidding....kind of. ) The Caffe Bellissimo question came up last year, in fact, right around this time. Here's a link.

But here's the low-down that we had at the time: Lora Johnson, chairwoman of Delaware Tech's new entrepreneurship program, was a former co-owner of Cafe Bellissimo restaurants on Kirkwood Highway in Prices Corner and in Springfield, Pa. She now co-owns Roux 3, a Mediterranean restaurant in Newtown Square, Pa.

While searching the archives for an answer, I found a few old Caffe Bellissimo recipes from Nancy Coale Zippe's columns. Here is some information from a 2005 column that includes two Caffe Bellissimo recipe for anyone who is interested...

Former Caffe Bellissimo owner Paul Owens said diners loved what they often referred to as "the pizza bread." He said the No. 1 comment he has received from past customers is "I really miss your bread."

He was happy to share the topping recipe, provided I would break it down from the quantities that made multiple gallons' worth.

This has been no easy task, as the recipe starts with six restaurant-size cans of tomatoes and two gallons of oil. Doing that division, by 32, was easier than figuring out 1/32 of three ounces of fresh basil or 2.7 ounces of pepper.

Then there's the problem of granulated garlic, the backbone flavor, as the recipe is titled "garlic paste."

There are more than 300,000 Google hits for granulated garlic, which is described as small granules of dehydrated roasted garlic with the intensity of fresh. Stronger than garlic salt; perfect for bread. This is available to the food industry in huge quantities, but can be purchased from specialty spice suppliers.

So with that in mind, I offer you a vague stab for your experimentation. The quantities are not exact, and no, I do not know how many spoonfuls of garlic that is!

This is a disclaimer. Proceed at your own risk

CAFFE BELLISSIMO GARLIC PASTE

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1 cup blended oil
4 tablespoons butter
2 teaspoons dried basil
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1/2-3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon pepper
4 teaspoons grated Romano cheese
1/2 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 to 2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley
1 to 2 teaspoons fresh chopped basil
2/3 ounce granulated garlic
1/4 ounce fresh garlic, chopped and browned

Crushed tomatoes seem to come in just one can size. You will only need 2 1/2 cups of the 3 1/2-cup can of tomatoes to balance the other ingredients.

In a deep bowl, mix tomatoes on low speed of an electric mixer. Add each of the ingredients one by one while the mixer is on. (By taste, I might add!) Paul Owens, former owner of the restaurant, wrote: "We used Amoroso's Italian rolls. Spread garlic paste on open-faced bread. Bake for 3 to 5 minutes at 375 degrees."

CAFFE BELLISSIMO SIGNATURE SOUP

Another much-loved offering from the restaurant is this soup, which won the Critic's Choice for "Best Signature Soup" in Delaware Today magazine in 2004. Paul Owens graciously agreed to allow me to put this more precise recipe in my cookbook, "House Specials' Soups, Salads, Et. Cetera."

8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
8 tablespoons (1/2 cup) all-purpose flour
2 quarts (8 cups) fresh chicken stock, or chicken broth
6 ounces poached chicken breast, cut into bite-size pieces
6 ounces baby shrimp
6 ounces slender asparagus, cut in 1/2 inch pieces
1 cup heavy cream
Dash cayenne pepper
Pinch Old Bay seasoning

Melt the butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour to make a smooth roux. While stirring, gradually add the stock or broth to the roux. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring constantly. Add the remaining ingredients and heat through until the shrimp and asparagus are cooked. Do not boil. Makes 12 generous servings.

Sangria

Wine columnist Roger Morris weighs in today about using sparkling wine and wine in summer cocktails.

Sangria is always a refreshing winner. (I had a very delightful glass last night at a friend's house.)

Here's a patriotic recipe for your Fourth of July BBQ:

To make simple syrup (the sweetener used in many sangria recipes), combine 1 cup water with 1 cup sugar in a small saucepan, then heat until the sugar is dissolved. Cool completely before using.

RED, WHITE AND BLUE SANGRIA

Recipe from Kim Haasarud's "101 Sangrias and Pitcher Drinks," (Wiley, 2008)
Start to finish: 15 minutes (plus at least 4 hours chilling)
Servings: About 7

1 bottle dry white wine
1/2 cup triple sec
1/4 cup citrus- or berry-flavored vodka
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup simple syrup
3/4 cup blueberries
3/4 cup hulled and sliced strawberries
3/4 cup raspberries
1/2 cup pineapple chunks
Combine all ingredients in a large glass punch bowl or pitcher and stir well. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours. Serve over ice.

Winging it at a Blue Rocks game

Buddy's Back

Read Buddy Hurlock's take on "Regular Guy Grub" every Tuesday in Second Helpings. This week, Buddy scarfs some buffalo wings - but no celery - at the Blue Rocks game:


Hot dogs are the normal fare at a baseball game. But at a recent Blue Rocks home game, I tried one of their new menu items for this season, an order of boneless buffalo bites.

They're not traditional wings, but nuggets, though not the flat-shaped nuggets you might be thinking of. From what I could observe, you get about six or seven bites per order, all white meat, with each of the bites equal in size. And, the bites are a nice size, comparable to a golf ball, which is a plus. There were no short-changed bites in my order.

How hot are they? Hot. Not blazing. But hot enough to make the order tough to finish without anything to drink. The order comes with a side of blue cheese dip, or maybe it's ranch. I never use either when eating wings, so I would not know the difference (I never use celery either. Interestingly, you do not get celery on the side with this. Maybe Mr. Celery gets offended).

The only downside is that, with no plastic fork offered, these can be a little messy. Grabbing a few extra napkins takes care of it.

Stadium vendor Centerplate offers a wide amount of choices at Blue Rocks games, including buffalo chicken sandwiches and buffalo burgers. If you are a fan of buffalo wings, I recommend giving the boneless buffalo bites ($5.50) a try during your next visit when you are craving something different.

By the way, I have to recommend my favorite buffalo bites, which would be Seasons Pizza's Seaso-Bites.

I also enjoy eating at Buffalo Wild Wings, which is building a new location near the intersection of Kirkwood Highway and Limestone Road (on the Stanton side, across from Commerce Bank).