Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Food, Delaware and D.C.


Aretha Franklin's hat arrived before she did. Man! That was some piece of headwear. No missing her in a crowd.

Dick Cheney in a wheelchair looks like Mr. Potter from "It's a Wonderful Life." (And wasn't that once a Saturday Night Live skit?)

How heavy do you think Biden's family bible was? It was huge.

Onto some food news:

Did you see Eric Ruth's story that Capriotti subs are being served up at some Delaware backed galas in D.C. ?


Ryan Cormier last night stopped by the famous Ben's Chili Bowl - (It was featured last night on Anthony Bourdain's TV series "No Reservations.") Pretty cool ice sculpture.

According to the Washington Post's Tom Sietsema, D.C. restaurateurs are looking forward to seeing an uptick in biz with the new 44th President. He and Michelle love to dine out, unlike the Texas couple who just moved out of 1600 Pennsylvania Ave.
Get your cup of Joe here! Nage restaurant in D.C. - there's also one in Rehoboth Beach - has been hosting Sunday "Biden Brunches."

The meal features a Joe impersonator (wonder how long he'll talk to you before your eggs get cold?) and a menu with such Delaware-inspired dishes as Sussex County Punkin' Chunkin Pancakes, Southern Delaware Chicken in a Blanket; and tons of that beloved mystery meat made with pig parts - scrapple - which also happens to be the pride of Bridgeville.

Monday, January 19, 2009

Food news

No joy in Mudville yesterday.....

But let's play catch up on food news:

- Pizza by Elizabeths moved in larger digs - the former location of the Brandywine Brewing Co. in Greenville. (Same shopping center as Janssen's Market.) Spies tell me the new space is amazing - chandeliers! big bar! sofas! - looking forward to checking it out.

- Have you been to Twelves Grill, the fairly new BYOB in West Grove, Pa., that's inside a former bank building? The coat room is the former vault. Great lamb chops...more is coming soon.

- Here's my Taste column on Mile High Steak & Seafood. The mile high or sky high prices have come down, according to general manager Duane Halsey.

- After seeing Joebama at the Whistle Stop in Wilmington, we decided to warm up at Lucky's on Concord Pike. They offered cups of free warm apple cider for those waiting for tables. Nice touch.

- Just in case you were worried, Tasty Baking Company announced Sunday that all Tastykake products, including the iconic Peanut Butter Kandy Kake, are safe for consumption and not included in the national recall program.

- I'm hearing buzz about a former restaurateur who is returning to the eats scene in the space that had been occupied by Pizza by Elizabeths......Stay tuned.

Friday, January 16, 2009

"There goes Andy"


Blueberry pancakes and sausage have brought me often to Hank's Place in Chadds Ford, Pa. But another part of the appeal was the chance to catch a glimpse of artist Andrew Wyeth, who died earlier this morning.


Locals, who knew him, always referred to the most well-known artist of the 20th century, simply as Andy.


Wyeth was also a regular at Jimmy John's Pipin' Hot Sandwiches - "the place with trains" as it's known, near Concordville, Pa.

He stopped by in November 2007 for his favorite sandwich, the Jimmy John's cheeseburger, the day after President Bush presented the artist with the National Medal of Arts and Humanities at the White House.




"Andy joked 'I went from the White House to Jimmy John's,' " owner Roger Steward told me in December 2007.



In memory of Wyeth, here's my review of Hank's Place from March 2006:



Don't bother asking the staff if he's there - you'll immediately be pegged as an outsider. And if you do spot him, act blase and let him eat his meal in peace.





Andrew Wyeth, arguably the most famous living artist in the United States, is a longtime patron of Hank's Place, off U.S. 1 and Pa. 100.




While the good folks at the casual Chadds Ford, Pa., diner don't make a big fuss over him, they are very protective of Andy, as he's known to friends.




When the low-key, press-shy Wyeth grabs one of the 44 seats at Hank's for breakfast or lunch, he is often accompanied by Helga Testorf, the German-born nurse and subject of Wyeth's famed "Helga Pictures" that caused a national sensation in the late 1980s.


Both Wyeth and Testorf live near the landmark eatery. Don't ask where. No one is likely to tell you.

"Helga and Andy are wonderful," says owner Voula Skiadas (in photo above), who respects the privacy of her customers, both famous and not. "We buffer them."

Interest in Wyeth is especially high this month. The Brandywine River Museum, Delaware Art Museum and Somerville Manning Gallery are running major Wyeth exhibits, and a retrospective of the 88-year-old artist's works will run for four months, beginning Wednesday, at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.


It's no surprise why Wyeth feels at home at Hank's. In the winter, the quaint, weathered building that serves not too fancy yet deceptively simple cuisine is kind of like one of his paintings.

In the spring and summer, hanging baskets of flowers prettily decorate the outside of the slate-blue restaurant trimmed in a cranberry hue.


"Where hungry people eat and friendly people meet," has long been Hank's motto.
Initially a fruit stand, the site was converted to an enclosed 14-seat hot dog stand, known as Hot Dog George's, not long before it was purchased in 1960 by Virginia and Hank Shupe. According to News Journal archives, the building, which abutted Brandywine Creek, was damaged in a 1977 flood right down to its foundation. The original structure was bulldozed.

The Shupes rebuilt the roadside eatery on higher ground, and it's now the place where many Chadds Ford residents start their day. Skiadas and her husband, Peter, took over the business in 1991, but kept the Hank's name.


The tiny eatery fills up early and often, especially on weekends for breakfast. Tables are close together in two rows, and newspaper-reading customers occupying the dozen seats at the counter contest for space among the various cake stands filled with such baked delights as gooey cherry pies and homemade pumpkin bread. Wood-paneled walls are hung with prints by artists schooled in the Brandywine tradition.

Newcomers to Hank's should know there's a system to the seating. Stand at the door - but don't hold it open - and wait, politely please, until someone points you to an available seat. Pay for your meal at the counter - cash only - before you leave.

Hank's has a large menu - you can get such things as portobello burgers, omelets and "exotic mushroom" quiches. (Kennett Square, the mushroom capital of the world, is, after all, only a few miles away.) But I've always liked the old-fashioned, country-style specials offered at lunch and dinner. Scan the board behind the counter and see what's featured that day. It's always interesting, nostalgic and wide-ranging.

During a recent visit, items (usually $8 to $13) included pork and sauerkraut "the old fashioned Dutch way" with mashed potatoes, gravy and applesauce; slices of spanakopita, the savory Greek cheese and spinach pie; macaroni and cheese with stewed tomatoes; Dutch-style chicken pot pie; and homemade meatloaf.

The Skiadases always make sure there are several seafood offerings during Lent; this day it was fresh, broiled grouper and homemade salmon cakes.

We chose the comforting baked bean special - two baked hotdogs over a casserole dish of sweet beans dotted with onions and served with a very good side of coleslaw. Another favorite was the hearty chunks of tender pork nested in a bed of sauerkraut. The grilled cheese sandwich was nicely toasted and buttery. Dessert was an ample bowl of chocolate ice cream and a large slice of homemade banana cream pie.

A Wyeth sighting at Hank's isn't a guarantee, though the legendary artist was apparently there once when I was eating breakfast.

I didn't realize it until, halfway through my meal, I overheard another customer whisper, "There goes Andy."

Quickly swiveling my head - a very uncool move, I know - I caught a quick glimpse of a white-haired gentleman exiting the front door. Was it really Wyeth? I couldn't say for certain. What I saw was as quick and fleeting and fuzzy as the elusive cougar that's supposedly been stalking New Castle County neighborhoods for years.

Since Hank's is a don't-ask, don't-tell kind of place, I simply shifted my attention back to a scrumptious plate of blueberry pancakes and asked for a coffee refill.

Just like the regulars do.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Top Chef recap


So does anyone else think that when the chefs are standing in front of Judges' Table, everyone has a look on their face like they've been called to the Principal's office?


That thought crossed my mind during this episode, which was my favorite so far this season.


I'm a huge Dan Barber fan - this week's guest judge - and his philosophy of using fresh, local, seasonal ingredients. Farm-to-fork eating isn't new, but Barber takes it to a whole new level.

The twist at Quickfire Challenge was actually the opposite of the later theme of using fresh and local ingredients - first, contestants had to take canned/processed foods and make them tasty.


Now, this takes some true creativity.

I was a little put off with Radhika's "housewives" comment, something about "housewives" - and geez, isn't that a dated word?- just open a can and call it dinner. Kid, you just offended every stay-at-home mom out there, but I guess we'll just chalk it up to indiscretion of youth.

Tattoo Girl didn't even put any effort into this challenge with her bruschetta- oh, excuse me, Miss Elitist I'm Not Using Anything But Farm Fresh Ingredients. She bores me. I wish she would just take her scallops and go home.

But it turned out to be the Battle of the Baldies - with a peeved Hosea versus Stefan, the Biggest Ego in the European Union.

Hosea also has started to bug me - for no real reason other than he's seems like a 6-foot-something whiny little girl - and I'm glad he lost. What a big dummy for handing over his Spam. Dude, this is a competition! Does Michael Phelps slow down in the pool to help out an opponent? Nope. And that's why he has more gold medals than anyone else. Hosea, go cry on Leah's shoulder. (Just don't tell your girlfriend!) Lesson learned: Sharing the Spam will come back to bite you.

Stefan's smug mug when he won gave me a much needed laugh. I dunno, I have a soft spot for cocky chefs.......and this guy has proven he can cook.

Elimination Challenge should have been a chef's dream. Go to a farm run by a thoughtful, critically-acclaimed chef, get the best ingredients possible and make a meal. (So why did so many contestants keep crying the blues that they couldn't shop at Whole Foods? What's UP with that?)

Every good chef will tell you, when you have great ingredients all you really need to do is let the flavors shine and, basically, stay out of the way. Add only what is needed to enhance, not mask, the taste.

Chef Tom and Dan Barber made many salient points - basically that you honor and respect the pig, chicken, lamb that you will be eating. There's a wonderful London chef named Fergus Henderson who feels the same way. He wrote a book called The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating that basically calls for using every part of the animal or vegetable that has been sacrificed to sate your appetite.

I had the privilege of writing about Henderson for a magazine piece and eating at his fantastic St. John restaurant - we sat near Gwen Stefani and Gavin Rossdale, but that's another story - and it was amazing.

He made tongues and kidneys taste wonderful and I had one of the best pork dishes of my life there.

But I regress, so back to the episode: Tom and Dan are ticked that Leah, Hosea and Adriane take fantastic baby lamb and muck it up with bad butchering skills, too many spices and inconsistent meat rolling and tying. It's all about respect and they certainly didn't show it. And there's no sympathy for Blonde Guy's lackluster pork - (What would Fergus Henderson say?) - and Fabio's pesto-laden pork ravioli. Fabio, how could you?

I'm still not feeling the love for new judge Toby Young, but a part of me wanted to reach inside the TV and give him a hug when he waxed poetic about pork, and Tom got an air smooch when he talked about pork skin and bone-in meat. (Why the lovey-doveys? I just wrote a story about the beauty of a picnic pork shoulder. What timing!)

Tattoo Girl, Beaker, and Stefan make chicken taste like chicken and get the win.

Adriane gets throw under the bus by crybaby couple Hosea and Leah, the judges knife her for pitful butchering skills and it's back to Jersey for Cougar Lady.

Still doesn't seem right to me. Where's the justice this episode?

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

That's all folks......


My house has smelled of pork since New Year's Eve - and, to me, that's a heavenly aroma.


The bone-in, picnic pork shoulder has become one of my favorite cuts of meat. It's a hulking hunk of meat, yet it's very economical and needs little tending to become tender.

Much of the fat melts away during the cooking and flavor boosts come from a wet paste that you massage onto the surface. (The skin, if you like to eat it, becomes amazing crackly and crunchy.)

The first pork shoulder I slow-roasted on New Year's Eve - I set the oven temperature too high - 325 degrees - and left the meat in the oven too long. The meat was a little dry for my liking, but we still ate it, wrapped in corn tortillas.

The second attempt, I dialed the oven temp back to 300 and was happy with the results. See today's recipe.
Anthony Melhem, executive chef at Haldas Market, suggests slow-roasting at an even lower temp - 275 degrees - for 20 to 30 minutes per pound. I'm going to give this technique a whirl.

The braising recipe below is even easier and I've used it often. If you like pulled pork sandwiches, you'll like this recipe. It's very simple, flavorful and feeds a group. (Good for this weekend's football watching.) I've tried other chili-sauces, but Heinz 57 gives it the best taste.

Every time I make this in my slow cooker, my cat, Big Boy, starts twitching his whiskers because the smell is intoxicating. He would never eat it, but it's so funny to see his reaction.
I prefer to cook it overnight on a low setting and then shred the meat and kept it in the crockpot on warm, but the recipe also works just fine cooking it on high. Serve it coleslaw.


SLOW-COOKER SOUTHERN-STYLE PULLED PORK

Let the slow-cooker do the braising for you.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 onions, finely chopped
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns
1 cup Heinz 57 sauce
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon liquid smoke
1 3-pound boneless pork shoulder or pork butt, trimmed of excess fat
Kaiser or onion buns


In a skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions and cook until soft. Add garlic, chili powder, and pepper and cook, stirring 1 minute. Add Heinz 57 sauce, brown sugar, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce and liquid smoke. Stir to combine and bring to a boil. Place pork in slow cooker. Pour sauce over. Cover and cook on low for 10 to 12 hours or on high for 6 hours, until pork is falling apart. Transfer pork to cutting board and pull meat apart with two forks. Remove excess fat from sauce if needed. Return pork to sauce and keep warm. Spoon onto buns. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Here's your seafood stew, Mr. President


According to this interesting story by Jane Black of The Washington Post, the first meal Barack Obama will eat as president was inspired by the Lincoln White House.

On the menu for his inaugural lunch: seafood stew of lobster, shrimp and black cod topped with a puff pastry dome; duo of pheasant and duck served with sour cherry chutney and molasses sweet potatoes; and apple cinnamon sponge cake with sweet cream glace.

Arlington, Va.-based Design Cuisine chefs spent months researching the food and cooking style of the 1860s. Wild game, especially duck, appeared on many White House menus of the day.

"Stews were very popular. It wasn't rare to have stew for breakfast," says Design Cuisine account executive Rickie Niceta of the decision to serve seafood stew. "But we were also thinking about who will be attending. They'll be cold, and they'll be starving. We wanted to start with something hot and substantial."

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Blue Pear Bistro

A Hotel du Pont photo shoot showcasing inaugural ball gowns, a muskrat dinner in Smryna and an interview with a French chef. That's on my agenda this week. How about you?

Sorry no post yesterday. I wrote one, but due to a Blogger glitch, it didn't publish.

Finally got a table at the Blue Pear Bistro near West Chester, Pa. This is a place to definitely make a reservation, especially on the weekends.




It's the cozy, casual, comfortable and affordable sister eatery of the Dilworthtown Inn. (Same owners.)



The bistro, a former country store and hospital for Revolutionary War soldiers (and how cool is that?), is nestled next to the Dilworthtown Inn and has become increasingly popular since opening a little more than a year ago.

The bar would be a very fun spot to eat a cheeseburger and watch a football game as many were doing on Saturday night. (Well, it's a more upscale alternative to a sports bar.) The strolling guitarist was fun too - but maybe not so if you were trying to listen to and watch said football game. (Note to self: Keep this bar in mind when March Madness rolls around.)

Highlights of the meal: the barbecue short ribs over grits ($20.50); mussels in coconut curry sauce ($17.50); steak & frites ($21) and seared scallops ($22.25.)

Don't miss the chocolate trio dessert - I loved the homemade marshmallows in the cocoa and the chocolate sorbet - and the lemon torte ($9).


Blue Pear has a wine list, but does let customers carry in. However, the corkage fee is a steep $10. We didn't brown bag it and got a very nice, medium-bodied, slightly spicy bottle of E Minor Shiraz - Australian from Barossa Valley - for $26.

Pizza: Makin' it good for you?

A slice of pepperoni pizza is good for you, right? I mean it has crust (bread), cheese (milk), pepperoni (meat) and tomato sauce (fruit). That means it covers the four classic food groups (pay no attention to that food pyramid, which has been replaced and revised a few times anyway). Pepperoni pizza could be, ever-so-wryly, rationalized as one of the best foods for you.

Why is pizza and health on the mind? Well for starters, not only is Super Bowl Sunday the biggest day of the year for pizza sales, but the days leading up to the game are when the major pizza chains make a big deal about the new additions to their menu, particularly Pizza Hut. They've often been one of the Super Bowl's top advertisers.

This year, it looks like Pizza Hut is going healthy. Not only has it recently introduced The Natural Pizza, with multigrain crust, but its Web site features a new push that all of its pizzas are only made with natural ingredients (vine-ripened tomatoes, meat and beef topping with no fillers, etc. See www.pizzahut.com for details).

As far as regular guy pizza goes, I am not won over. Remember, if you tell me a pizza is sloppy, messy, greasy, well I am running right over to that pizza place and having a slice or two.

Hey, if fast food places and the national pizza chains want to get in on the health kick, that's fine. Pizza Hut isn't my favorite pizza, but I like their pizza. I guess I'm just wondering if this is all they have in store for us this Super Bowl Season. Maybe they'll surprise us, as we're all getting ready to watch the big Eagles victory, and during that much-anticipated first commercial break, we'll learn about the New Triple-Stuf Double-Roni XL Pan. Let's just hope it's not Jessica Simpson telling us about it.

In another note, Frasier's is the new name for old Lobby House on Loockerman St. in Dover. It is just a name change for the place, so the menu is the same. The Team Trivia each Wednesday night now starts at 8 p.m., one half-hour earlier.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Happy Friday


Sorry, no Reader Mail today.

It's already been a busy day. I just returned from an assignment in Philadelphia and caught an advance screening of the new movie "He's Just Not That Into You."


The movie is loosely based on the best-selling book of the same name, that started as a plot line on the TV series "Sex and the City."
It's a fairly predictible chick flick - that does have its funny moments and is set in Baltimore (Hey! There's the neon Domino Sugar sign!). The large and well-known cast includes Scarlett Johansson, Ben Affleck, Kevin Connolly, Jennifer Aniston, Jennifer Connelly, Ginnifer Goodwin, Bradley Cooper, Drew Barrymore, and Barrymore's ex-boyfriend, the Mac guy.
It comes out Feb. 6 - just in time for Valentine's Day. More is coming soon on "He's Just Not That Into You" author Greg Behrendt, who has a cameo in the flick. Stay tuned.

I'll have to get to the mailbag next week. Please keep the email coming. You ask. We answer. Most Fridays. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

IN OTHER THOUGHTS: Doesn't it seem like it has been the longest week ever??

I'm so happy for the weekend.

Brrrrrrr. Forecast calls for snow. (For me, that means some kind of comfort food in the slower cooker or oven.) Hopefully, the snow will just be a pretty dusting - like this Dec. 2007 photo taken by Suchat Pederson in Battery Park in New Castle - and not mean an afternoon of heavy shoveling.


Looking forward to Sunday. Go Eagles! And Golden Globes red carpet madness! Yippee!

Let's go bowling

We sent some News Journal staffers out to sample soups, stews and chili, here's what they found.

Share your favorite soup places. Comment, comment, comment.