Reader mail: UPDATE

Happy (early) Turkey Day.

My R&R is continuing - though I'm about to make pies, cranberry-apple chutney and do some other Thanksgiving-y cooking tasks - so I'm giving you Reader Mail two days earlier.

I'm just bought a case of white Meritage made by Murietta's Well Winery in California. It's a Bordeaux- style blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. I first tried the crispy, yet creamy wine that has a hint of spice at Harry's Seafood Grill and it went perfectly with a pumpkin gnocchi. (Thanks for the recommendation Anne Hood!) I got the good folks at Kreston Wine & Spirits to order it for me. I can't wait to serve it tomorrow and see what the gang thinks.

I'm taking a few more days off so probably no new posts until Monday. But, this Friday, my Taste column in 55 Hours is about the new Orillas Tapas Bar & Restaurant. I'll add a link as soon as the column goes online. UPDATE: HERE'S THE LINK.

Send your reader mail questions to me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com. You ask. We answer. Every Friday. (Or earlier due to a holiday.)

Here's the mailbag:

QUESTION: Hello Patricia,

After seeing you mention the new tapas restaurant on Market Street, we decided to
give it a try.

The food was OK Not great. One standout was the Arepas a la Orillas -- corn meal
lollipops with chorizo and manchego. They served a really good lemony aoli with the
olives we ordered. We ordered a couple of cocas -- topped flat breads that our
server referred to as pizza. They would have been better if the toppings were
served in a bowl with flatbreads on the side.

Our server was less than hospitable and took sarcasm a bit too far. When asked for
recommendations without bell peppers by one of our party who is allergic, he made a
recommendation that was served with peppers. When we pointed this out to him, his
answer was that he didn't actually tell the chef no peppers or anything. As if that
were a strange thought.

Another observation -- the tables are WAY too small for tapas. We were crowded and
had to juggle plates and ditch the candle.

So...that's my take. May have been an off night for them. Our wine selections were
squashed twice because the previous night had been busy and they were wiped out.
The room itself is really beautiful and warm. I wish them well -- it usually takes
awhile to get the kinks out. I look forward to hearing your thoughts once you've
had a chance to visit.

T. Miller

ANSWER: Hi T. Thanks for your take on the restaurant. Orillas is the topic of my column on Friday. It's only been open, maybe, 2 weeks?, which is used to be much too earlier for a review to appear, but in this day and age of instant news, I decided to give readers the scoop early. Don't want to give away too much until the review goes online. I'll post a link when it does.

UPDATE: Washington, D.C., chef Jose Andres has been wowing crowds at his tapas temple Jaleo for at least 15 years and Philadelphia chef Jose Garces's three tapas-style eateries (Amada, Tinto, Distrito) are insanely popular in that city. Delaware actually has had a popular Spanish tapas restaurant before - anyone remember Annie's Tapas on Union Street inWilmington? Now, we have Cafe Azafran in Lewes, Ole Tapas Lounge near Newark and the new Orillas. There were a few missteps and wobbles, but I think it will only get better with experience. HERE'S THE LINK.

QUESTION: Please go to Riviera pizza in Fox Run Shopping Center off of Route 40.
The pizza there is damn delicious.

ANSWER: Since I'm doing a lot of cooking tonight, I'm tempted to go out and pick up a pizza. But instead, I think I'm going to pass along the suggestion to my favorite pizza man, Buddy Hurlock, our Regular Guy Grub writer.

So not the pits

Had lunch today at the Charcoal Pit. The real one.

Anyone who's lived in Delaware for any length of time knows that, of course, I'm talking about the Concord Pike location.

The Pit no longer offers Delaware best burgers - I think I've got to give that crown now to Five Guys - but I must say I so enjoyed lunching there. (I got the 4-oz. "Pit Special" - basically a burger and fries. It was only $4.99. Washed it down with a root beer, $1.99. It was a juicy and very satisfying burger.)

What I love about the Concord Pike Pit- the only one I visit - is that it hasn't changed much at all. Cheeburger Cheeburger was pretty lame because it tried to look like a 1950s style burger joint.

There's no trying at the Pit.

I love the tired, worn leather booths, the old jukeboxes, the ketchup/relish served in the little paper cups nestled next to the burgers, the black and white photos on the wall. I even like that silly chain they put up near the front door so people don't go charging into the dining room.

With Thanksgiving just around the corner, I'm guessing that you'll see a lot of visiting nostalgia seekers in the Pit throughout the weekend.(The Pit's closed Thanksgiving Day.) I overheard the guy at the booth next to me saying he hadn't been there in years but used to love to come during his high school and UD days.

I nodded as I chewed (and wished I had ordered a milkshake.) Next visit.

What's next?

With more and more meals being made in the home, the economy has hurt restaurants, but has yet to shut down the industry completely. In fact, AOL has come up with a list of what could be the "next big chain" of restaurants.

The full list can be found at http://smallbusiness.aol.com/features/next-big-chain, and Five Guys (which started in Washington, D.C.) made the list, as did Surf Taco (from the Jersey shore). Here's a sampling of what else AOL found, with some brief comments by myself. How would any of these do in Delaware?

Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza. Based in south Florida. Besides the real big guys, pizza chains are hard to find in this area. San Francisco Oven did not last long, appearing briefly in one of the shopping centers along Route 40 (all of those centers have blended together to me). Not sure how Anthony's would play in Delaware, as coal fired pizza is not that novel.

Brother Jimmy's BBQ. Based in New York City. The popularity of BBQ places is on the rise. Delaware might not be the next best step after Manhattan, but I can see a Brother Jimmy's popping up here in the near future.

Chop't Salad. Based in New York City and Washington, D.C. Uh, a salad place? Next.

Firehouse Subs. Almost 350 locations nationwide, the closest in Virginia. Hey, if Subway can do it, so can someone else. But with Wawa so popular, plus Delaware's own sandwich shop chains, Firehouse would be a tough sell here.

Hot Head Burritos. Based in Ohio. An alternative to Taco Bell? I don't eat Mexican anyway, so don't ask me.

HuHot Mongolian Grill. Based in the Midwest. Uh, I don't remember a Mongolia at Epcot. But anyway, no, I've never had Mongolian food, and big leap of faith here, I'm guessing I don't like it.

Max Brenner: Chocolate By The Bald Man. I had to include this one. There are two New York City locations plus others worldwide. They have chocolate pizza. That's either the best idea I've ever heard or the worst.

Season's 52. Seven locations in Georgia and Florida. A "casually sophisticated grill and wine bar," which seems to be a nice way of saying "just like Ruby's and Friday's."

Uncle Franky's. Three locations in Minneapolis. Hot dogs and burgers, along with 1970s music and cartoons for kids. Sounds the Ghost of Shakey's and Ground Round Past. Also sounds like a winner. Get someone out to Minneapolis now and let them know about Delaware.

The Costco crazies

I don't shop often in Costco. Why? I tend to go a little nuts once I'm there.

I'm not quite sure what happens to me. Suddenly, I become a person who can't live without a 25-pound bag of flour. No lie. I bought 25-pounds (!) of flour. It was $6.99, and, really, who can resist that bargain? I also bought 4 pounds of butter and a ginormous bag of walnuts. Oh, and don't forget the big container of vanilla extract.

Some shopping fiend possessed my body. I didn't recognize the person who was happily pushing the cart through the Costco aisles and tossing in giant containers of mustard, a six-pack of anchovies packed in olive oil and two cans of Cento plum tomatoes that were bigger than 6-month-old babies. (Grandmom Talorico's ragu will be making an appearance in my kitchen real soon.)

So what am I going to do with all that flour? Looks like everyone I know this Christmas is getting cookies or some kind of baked good. This morning, I already made banana-nut muffins and peanut butter-chocolate chip cookies. I'm gearing up now to make dough for Thanksgiving pies.

Is there a 12-step program for a Costco addiction?

Reader mail: UPDATE

Happy, snowy Friday. I'm technically "off" for some R&R through next Friday, so just a very short Reader Mail post today.

First some food news:

Did you see The New Yorker article about Dogfish Head in the annual Food Issue?

My fellow critic Eric Ruth gives a fork up to Tagami (formerly Utage) in Independence Mall off U.S. 202.

UPDATE: The former Utage owners are now hosting dinners at the Hockessin Athletic Club. Here's a link to a story that appeared Wednesday. (See second item.)

Now onto to the mailbag:

QUESTION: Dear Pat,

When Sweet Basil first opened you did a great article about them.
They have a lot of new dishes, new holiday specials, and the best Thai food in the
Brandywine Valley.

I have been going there since they first opened and every meal is
a delight. Have had birthdays, holiday gatherings, business lunches/dinners.....and
as a BYOB, you can't beat it in today's economy. The owners, Paul & Griselda
Lauprasert work so hard to please their customers.

They just sent out a new mailing of specials.

Thanks for all you do for our community - I love your column.

Best regards,

Carol

ANSWER: Thanks for the kind words Carol. I've "Thai'ed" one on several times at Sweet Basil off U.S. 202 near Glen Mills, Pa. It is, indeed, worth a visit.

Second Helpings offers Reader Mail every Friday.

You ask. We answer. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Chow at Ciao's

I'm treading on Buddy Hurlock's Regular Guy Grub turf here, but I recently had a couple of great slices of plain cheese pizza from Ciao's in Prices Corner.

I'm all about New York style pizza - thin, crisp, crunchy crust - and Ciao's delivered the goods. Picked up two slices - $2.50 each - and then realized it would have been cheaper to buy a whole pie (A little over $10.)

Next time.

Readers? Your thoughts on Ciao's?

Top Chef recap

I'm getting this out of the way right now: Every time I see "Top Chef" contestant Carla, I immediately think of Beaker, the Muppet.

She's got an eye-pop thing going on.

Hot dog challenge was funky cool. I would definitely go for the "Indian" style dog - sounds really good. (But, hey, didn't contestant Radhika say she wanted to show she could do more than Indian cuisine? Yeah, whatever. As long as you win, that's what's important.) Stefan is showing his scary side - he looked like he wanted to filet guest judge Donatella Arpaia for hating on his "world" dog or whatever the heck that was. (And, ugh, Irish-style tartar sauce , i.e. mayonnaise, on a dog??) Stefan, use your knives for good - not evil. But have a meltdown at least once, this season, pretty please. We want a good flip-out.

Baltimore chef Jill deserved to be in bottom for not even trying to make a hot dog and then wrapping up a store-bought one in rice paper. What's up with that?

I love that Chef Tom opened the doors to his Craft restaurant for the chefs to use. That's a great restaurant. Last time I was at Craft, Tom was actually cooking that night. We had a wonderful time and the food was incredible. After a James Beard Awards ceremony one year, some friends and I went to his Craft bar and the staff was having a party to celebrate a win. We tried to leave - didn't want to infringe on the party - but they insisted that we stay and have a glass of bubbly.

I'm a huge carpaccio fan, so I was all about Fabio's dish. I eat that dish quite often in Italy and I loved his creative use of olives. (Was that a molecular gastromony technique??) But then Jamie's chilled corn soup - which should only be made with perfectly sweet, in-season corn - looked equally delish.

OK, is it me, or does Padma seemed to be overacting this season? First the weird face after the bone in the hot dog and then the fake throw up scene with the terrible lemon meringue martini? Is this a chef's show or Fear Factor?

Let it be known that real diners don't eat ostrich egg quiche. Buh-bye Jill.

Regular Guy Pizza: Version 1.1

First things first. This isn't a revision of my Regular Guy pizza ratings from July.

This is just an extension. A bonus pack. A special, hidden feature you just found on that DVD you've had for months, by clicking somewhere else on the menu.

Maybe next summer, I will officially renew the Regular Guy pizza list. But for now, Dom's Pizza & Steaks in Newport (998-7154) remains No. 1, with Little Vinnie's on Faulkland Rd. near Wilmington (633-6801) second.

For that story last July, it was tricky to sort out all my favorites, since I enjoy pizza so much. Here are some other places to consider (some of these were honorable mentions in July).

Valle Cucina Italiana in Pike Creek (998-9999), otherwise known as Valle's Pizza. I didn't have to look up their number. Well, it is easy to remember. But, I've been going here since I was a kid. Can anyone remember the smaller place, about one-third the size of what it is now? Remember the enclosed game room with four tightly packed games and a pinball machine? Remember the ice cream and hot dogs from neighbor Tempo's? Ah, the memories.

By the way, you once had to leave your home to play video games. They called them arcades. It cost 25 cents for one game, except of course for... Dragon's Lair. I can't quite remember the games I was best at. Tempest, Tron, Mr. Do and Tapper come to mind. I could sit down at Pole Position right now and know exactly when to ease up on the pedal and when to floor it. Sometimes, I made it past Act II on Ms. Pac Man. Once in a while, I got to drive the boat in Spy Hunter. When all the good games were taken, I played Popeye or Berzerk. If those were taken, I played Joust. But I digress.

It's hard to tell from what place I've eaten the most pizza. If Grotto is first, then Valle's is second, no doubt. Remember the small, the medium, the large, and the medium-plus? Just in case a medium was too small and a large was too big. Lately, I have favored their strombolis. The one I had recently was perfect, packed with cheese and pepperoni. When the sauce and the grease shoot out of the boli with every bite, burning your hand a little, remember, that's a good thing.

Margarita's Pizza on Main St. in Newark (368-4611). Very good pizza. Another great New York-style place, and a classic for anyone who went to University of Delaware. Philadelphia has Pat's Steaks for late night eats. We have Margarita's Pizza. No night at the Stone Balloon was complete unless you went to Margarita's afterward. What do I think of the new building where the Stone Balloon once stood? That one day someone will think, 'Hey, this would be a good place to put a bar.'

Giordano's Pizza in Kennett Square, Pa. (at (610) 444-5733). Another place with good pizza, but to me, even better strombolis. With its large sports bar, separate from the main restaurant, Giordano's is also a great place to watch the game.

Lastly, a word about the Reader's Choice selections. For pizza, the results were (1) Seasons (2) Pizza By Elizabeths (3) Pat's. The pizza at Seasons and Pat's is good, just not tops to me. As for the other place, c'mon. That's not Regular Guy pizza.

The hot dogs came out (1) The Dog House (2) Johnnie's Dog House (3) Jake's Hamburgers. I absolutely agree with No. 1. But where's Deerhead? Or even Charcoal Pit? The readers goofed here. As for Johnnie's, I have been there once, and kinda shrugged my shoulders. Jake's? That's a curveball for the hot dog list. Were the voters confused by some sort of butterfly ballot? I've had a Jake's hot dog. Once. Anyway, where else can you get a great hot dog? At University of Delaware home basketball games, but not the ones at the regular concession stands. Go to where they sell food directly behind the one basket. That line isn't just for roast beef and salad (bleck). You can also get a superb hot dogs there, in a sandwich roll, with cheese sauce and sauerkraut available. If you like hot dogs and are at game there, it's a must try.

As for wings, it went (1) Wings To Go (2) Buffalo Wild Wings (3) Seasons. These are the same three I'd pick. You can't go wrong with any of these, especially the boneless wings at BWW and the Seaso-bites at, well, Seasons.

Reader mail

Hey food fans. So sorry for the very late Friday version of Reader Mail, but you know what they say about better late than never.....

I've had to take some very unexpected, beyond-my-control time off and probably won't be blogging regularly again for at least a week. I'll try to post when I can, so please keep checking back.

Remember, Buddy Hurlock's Regular Guy Grub runs every Tuesday.

Send your dining questions to me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Every Friday. You ask. We answer.

In other food news: I've already heard raves about Julio Lazzarini's new tapas restaurant, Orillas, on Market Street in Wilmington. (And not from Julio and his family members.) These are kudos from trusted Second Helping fans and food lovers who aren't getting paid to say nice things and who are NOT related to Julio.) I can't wait to check it out.

Also, a big shout-out to Marvin, our server at Harry's Seafood Grill.

Marvin, my man, you are wonderful at your job. It was a pleasure sitting at one of your tables. (Note to Harry owners Xavier and David: Give this guy a raise. When the food and the service is this superb, you don't mind spending hard earned cash to dine out.)

Here's the mailbag:

QUESTION: Hi Pat.

In your column of Friday, October 17 - [and in Second Helpings in September] - one of your readers asked for information about Vincente's Restaurant. I am pleased to tell you that Vincent Mancari and family will be re-opening Vincente's at a new location - Library Plaza on Kirkwood Highway, near the entrance to Delaware Park, next door to the (under renovation) New Castle County Library. They expect to open within a month or so. More details to follow from Mr. Mancari.

John Osborn, Property Manager for Library Plaza.

ANSWER: For those who don't know, Vincent Mancari - who, for years, ran Vincente's on Lincoln Street in Wilmington and later at restaurant in Glen Mills, Pa. - is well-known for his "talking menu" and tableside Caesar salads. Longtime Vincente's fans with fond memories are going to be very, very happy about this news.

QUESTION: Hi Patricia, over the decades I've been a faithful breakfast patron at the Hollywood Grill at U.S. 202 and Murphy Road in Fairfax [formerly the old Howard Johnson's] next to the Best Western Brandywine Valley Motel. This past Friday I discovered a whole new dimension to this favorite "breakfast comfort food" eating establishment.

Friday, (Nov. 7) I was invited to the 90th birthday dinner of Helen "Chiquita" Kingshill - longtime (five decades) Fairfax resident and mother of a good friend and fellow BHS Class of '67'er - Bruce Kingshill. The event was held at the Hollywood Grill. Not only did I discover you could order a good drink (martinis and Dogfish Head Beer), but the dinner entries consisted of broiled and fresh seafood that rivaled any Maryland seafood (red snapper, tilapia and crab cakes). The food was delicious, reasonably priced and filling. What a great (culinary) surprise for this former Wilmingtonian (frequent visitor) and current Ellicott City, Md., resident.

A great birthday celebration was had by "Chiquita", the extended Kingshill family visiting from North Carolina along with myself and other honored guest and friend and BHS classmate; Bill England, also visiting from North Carolina.

Best regards,

Kevin F. Donohue

ANSWER: Great letter. Thanks Kevin. (And I'm forever grateful to you for encouraging me to eat a cheesesteak at the Claymont Steak Shop. One of the best cheesesteaks I've had outside of South Philly.) I have friends who keep telling me the Hollywood is so much more than a breakfast spot. And here's another endorsement. Readers? Similar experiences? I think the News Journal is picking up the tab soon at Hollywood.

QUESTION: Dear Patricia,

Our favorite Chinese resturant, Shang Hai, had a fire a few months ago and is now closed. It was located on Philadelphia Pike in Claymont near Burger King. Shang Hai was the best Chinese restaurant in Delaware and we went at least once or twice a week. The chef is extremely talented and his wife is so nice and welcoming. The "soup dumplings", steamed pork buns in Shang Hai style are the best and the fried New Year cake (which is not fried or a cake but a homemade delicious noodle dish) are some of our favorites. Do you have any idea what has become of the chef and his wife and the resturant? We miss Shang Hai!!!!!!

Toxicdeb

ANSWER: Toxicdeb (now there's a screen name!), you are not alone in mourning Shang Hai. I wish I had more news - or any news - about any plans to reopen. Owners if you're reading this - or anyone else with information - please email at ptalorico@delawareonline.com and I'll get the word out.

QUESTION: Hi Patricia, I recently went to the James Street Tavern, 2 W. Market St., in Newport, Del., 19804.

It is in the site of the old Hi-Ho Tavern and is totally renovated and beautiful. The food is top notch. Everything on the menu is good and the service is wonderful and friendly.

I highly recommend this "new" restaurant.

Susan

ANSWER: Good dining tip. Thanks Susan - and I'll forgive you for the shameless plug if you're related to anyone who owns or runs the eatery - because the buzz has been good about James Street. Just one thing to note: James Street still has a tavern license - so that means you must be 21-years or older to eat in the restaurant. But I'm fairly certain there is also take-out in another part of the building that is not the tavern.

Top Chef recap

The reel in? Definitely the bloody apples.

"Top Chef: New York" kicked off last night with a challenge that called for peeling 15 apples with a paring knife. (New York is the Big Apple, get it? Kind of lame, but the challenge wasn't.)

When one of the contestants sliced through his thumb but keep going and left a bowl of blood-stained apples (food safety hazard, no?) it got me pumped up for a great season.

Out for blood. Yeah, baby. That's what this season is all about. Woo-hoo!

I don't know about you, but I can't peel potatoes, apples, etc. with a paring knife. I've tried and tried - in cooking classes, under the watchful eye of mother - but one of those swivel peelers is so much easier to use. Hey, I'm a home cook, not a professional.

Elimination challenge brought the contestants to different areas of New York. I was psyched to see the team who had to produce Greek food go into my favorite store in Astoria - Titan.

(My buddy Eve introduced me to this store several years ago. It's awesome and offers something like 100 kinds of feta cheese and olives. She and her mother always order in Greek for me so we don't get ripped off. I love to watch the interaction between them and the staff.)

When I saw that Jean-Georges Vongerichten was a judge, I knew the culinary school kid - who had reproduce an Asian dish - was toast.

Jean-Georges, who has lived in Asia, has restaurants in Shanghai and Hong Kong.

Would you want him judging your Asian food? Didn't think so.

Who to root for? No one right now. But my money is on Stefan to fill the role of this season's bad boy.

Let the flames begin.

Top Chef returns

The Bravo series returns on Wednesday night. Judges Tom Colicchio and Padma Lakshmi had a conference call last week to talk about the program, now in it's fifth season.

By PATRICIA TALORICO

The News Journal

Tom Colicchio isn't bored by wacky molecular gastronomic cooking techniques.

Yet any of the 17 contestants who want to win "Top Chef: New York" had better back away from the truffle oil.

Colicchio, head judge of the Bravo TV cooking series that premieres at 10 p.m. Wednesday night, said there are no real culinary "deal breakers" for him.

"This season, we see some very basic, but well done food," he said by telephone from Los Angeles.

But, Colicchio adds, "the ingredient I don't want to see? Truffle oil. Mostly because there's no truffle in there at all."

Cookbook author, actress and "Top Chef" host Padma Lakshmi agrees.

"I really roll my eyes at truffle oil," she said during a conference call last Friday. (According to a 2007 New York Times article, most commercial truffle oils are flavored with a lab-created chemical compound and not the real and rare fungus.)

Guest judges appearing on the fifth season of the Emmy and James Beard Award-winning cable series this season include Jacques Pepin, Lidia Bastianich, Eric Ripert, Martha Stewart, and, weirdly enough, Foo Fighters frontman Dave Grohl.

Colicchio said episodes this season have all been filmed, except for the finale which will take place in January at as yet unchosen location. Previous seasons had been set in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Miami and Chicago.

This year, taping took place in and around New York City - home for both Lakshmi and Colicchio.

Being on their home turf had both benefits and drawbacks for the judges.

Lakshmi said she usually gains about 10 to 15 pounds over the course of the series. "The amount of food consumed is staggering," she said.

But this time, Lakshmi said she could keep the creeping pounds at bay by working out in her own gym. "I gained less weight this season because I was at home," she said.

However, Colicchio, who has lost 20 pounds since the first season of "Top Chef" began in 2006 – "Tom is probably better at taking small bites than I am," Lakshmi joked – actually found it more difficult to be close to home.

"We'd go back to our regular lives once we left the set. It was hard to get back into the mindset of the show," he said.

The format of the series this season remains the same. Contestants compete first in a "Quickfire Challenge" and and then in an "Elimination Challenge" before heading to the judges' table, where the best and worst dishes are decided and losers pack up their knives and depart.

The winner gets the title of Top Chef and $100,000 to start a restaurant.

The biggest change this season is the addition of judge Toby Young, a British food critic and author.

"He was brash. He was opinionated. He was very witty. You know his book was ‘How to Lose Friends and Alienate People’? He lived up to that," Colicchio said.

Young replaces food writer, cookbook author and former "Queer Eye for the Straight Guy" star Ted Allen.

Colicchio said that, since Allen's Food Network series "Food Detectives" was recently renewed, he could no longer be a part of "Top Chef."

"They [the Food Network] have a policy that they can't do our show,” he said. On his blog on Ted Allen.net, Allen wrote "I've had enviable luck, in my opinion, at getting away with judging food on two competing networks over these past five seasons of "Top Chef" and "Iron Chef America." But I knew all along that if I ever got a larger presence on some other show, I was going to have to commit to one network or another.

"Food Network, it is!"

So, if truffle oil is the way to lose on "Top Chef," what’s the secret to winning?

"Think before you charge into the challenges," Lakshmi said. "Taking that few minutes to compose an idea and think 'How can I hit this challenge out of the park?' "

Colicchio is even more straightforward: "The strategy to winning is making great food."

Waffles, anytime

OK, so you can get breakfast anywhere, and it's a lot cheaper to make it at home.

But until recently, Delaware could not enjoy the friendly confines of the Waffle House, open a thankful 24 hours a day.

Where can you find a Waffle House? Unfortunately, the closest options we have up north are Middletown and Elkton, Md. The one in "New Smyrna," as I like to call it, is a godsend when coming home from a late sports assignment downstate (such as, football).

New Smyrna, by the way, is my name for all of the development along Route 13 on the southern end, though a fair amount of these newly constructed shopping centers are empty. Wow, just like all the empty shopping centers we have up here.

Anyway, why is Waffle House better than the rest of the breakfast places? The service. It's quick. Like, lightning quick, compared to at least one other national chain known for being open 24 hours and serving breakfast (here's a hint, it rhymes with Lenny's). Sure, I'm usually not at Waffle House when it's busy. But, I've also been there when it has been, and the wait staff and cooks there do a great job when it's time to hustle.

My order is usually one waffle (they have big waffles), sometimes with chocolate chips, bacon and white toast. You can't get an English muffin there for some reason. Oh well.

There's a Waffle House in "New Camden," as well, where development also booms along Route 13, tacking on 5-10 minutes to the drive through that area. Hey, maybe we should build a long, north-to-south highway that covers the length of the state, and has a nice, convenient hook up to major regional roads such as Interstate 95, U.S. 301 and maybe even U.S. 50.

Uh, never mind. DelDOT can't even plan a proper cycle for the new stoplight at Milltown Road and Route 41, an intersection that needed that light for, oh, for about 20 years.

Big food, good deal

Hope you had a good weekend. I stopped into the Booth's Corner Farmers Market over the weekend - just over the Delaware line in Boothwyn, Pa. - and was amazed at the crowds.

It's been a while since I've been there and forgot what a wonderful market it is, especially if you looking for some fun food finds.

Don't miss Cajun Kate's which offers everything from a gumbo of the day to jambalaya to po-boy sandwiches. There's only counter seating available, so take-out isn't a bad idea here.

More is coming soon about Cajun Kate's food. Stay tuned.

Also, consider the carved roast beef sandwiches at Chamberlain's Roast Beef. They are out of this world terrific. If you're a meat lover, then you're going to love Chamberlain's. The stall has a big seating area - with tableside service - as well as counter seating.

The hand-carved beef is medium rare, thick, but not too thick, and stacked high on soft rolls. It comes with a side of au jus. There are little jars on the table of horseradish, pickled sweet peppers and jalapenos to jazz up the sandwich. It's a real deal for only $6.50. Carved roast pork sandwich are also $6.50 - but it's buy one, get one free. You can't beat that bargain.

Look for more on Chamberlain's in an upcoming food story I'm working on now about food values - big portions at lower costs.

Reader Mail:UPDATE

Good Friday everyone.

This day has already been jammed packed. I was at a press conference at the Food Bank of Delaware. They've started a statewide initiative to raise 300,000 pounds of food and $250,000 beginning today through Feb. 28. that will aid more than 350 social services agencies this winter that are already running short of resources.

The nonprofits want to encourage businesses, schools and organizations statewide to run food drives

Demand for food, shelter and heating assistance this year has increased between 25 to 50 percent from 2007.

Later today, I also have a conference call scheduled with some people from "Top Chef" which premieres on Bravo TV on Wednesday.

Crazy day.

Keep the mailbag full and email me your dining questions at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

You ask. We answer. Every Friday.

Here are today's letters:

QUESTION: Good morning,

I was wondering if you were familiar with a small shop that use to be near the University of Delaware in Newark that made fresh kielbasa. Not sure if it is still there or the location address. If they are still in business would you forward their address or telephone number.

Have a great week.

Regards,

Jim Keebler


ANSWER: Jim, I've been scratching my head since I got this letter and I can't recall the shop you're writing about. I know you can get fresh kielbasa from the Delaware Provision Co. in Wilmington's Browntown neighborhood. Here's the address: 318 Eighth Ave, Wilmington; 429-0220.

But I don't know of the shop in Newark.

Readers?

UPDATE: A reader below  reminded me about Herman's Quality Meat Shoppe, 64 E. Cleveland Ave.; 731-5344. It reopens Nov. 18. See comment below for more information. 


QUESTION: Dear Ms. Talorico,

When I lived at New York, often times I can eat a simple roll (spicy tuna/salmon, california roll and the like) for lunch from the local deli. If I go out to dinner I'll get some actual sushi (yellowtail, tuna, salmon...). I just moved to Delaware six months ago, and now I am craving sushi. I know that raw or hard-to-get fish is pricey, not only because there is so little of it out there, but also because of transportation costs from New York to Delaware. The fish itself must be of the highest quality- clean and healthy- because if it is sick, it'll make the person who eats it sick!

I really don't want to taste around and then find the one I like in the area. Paying for gas and pricey food, ouch! Would you be able to recommend couple Sushi Restaurants? Thanks!

Diana

ANSWER: Diana, in no particular order, I like Mikimotos in Wilmington; Masamoto in Glen Mills, Pa.; the Cultured Pearl in Rehoboth Beach; Okura, 703 Ace Memorial Drive, Hockessin, 239-8486; and Kyoto in Pike Creek,



QUESTION: Just wanted to let you guys know, if you hadn't heard already, that La Rosa Negra restaurant in Lewes is no more. It's now known as Cirelli's, which I think is the name of the owner. I don't know if anything besides the name is changing - just drove by today and saw the new sign.

ANSWER: OK, thanks. I'll let you know if I get more information.



QUESTION: Hi Patricia - I grill quite often, and I feel T-Bone steaks are the hardest steak to judge doneness. I feel your pain. The last time I grilled T-Bones, I gave them an additional 2-3 minutes of cook time than usual for medium rare. The finger test doesn't seem to work with these steaks. You need to feel the tension of a medium for a medium rare steak. So, that is why I am grilling rib steaks tonight, and enjoy a bottle of red wine while watching the Phillies WIN!!! Love your blog!! Keep up the great work!! Take Care!! Sue

ANSWER: Thanks, Sue. Readers, just a note: Sue sent the above note after I whined about my inability to properly grill a T-bone. It always turns out too rare. Someone told me to buy an instant read thermometer. Which I have. And always forget to use when grilling.

New location for Lapp's

Grabbed a quick sushi lunch today at Wilmington's Riverfront Market. While waiting for my order, I looked over at the now empty stall once occupied by Lapp's Kitchen.

It has moved to the former Corner Market space on King Street in downtown Wilmington.

Here's a strange, Twilight Zone twist: When I got back from lunch, an email was waiting for me.

The City of Wilmington is holding a ribbon cutting ceremony and grand opening for Lapp's Kitchen on Friday morning at 10:30 a.m.

Here's the highlights from the release:

After eight years in operation at the Riverfront Market, Lapp's Kitchen owner Chuck Parkhill moved his business to 901 N. King St.- the site formerly occupied by Corner Market.

The larger, 3,200 square-foot space has enabled Parkhill to expand his hours of operation (Monday through Friday, 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.) as well as his menu offerings and corporate catering services. The restaurateur has also applied for a liquor-license and plans to serve beer and wine in the near future.

Lapp's Kitchen employs 7 full-time employees and offers full-service breakfast and lunch menus, with plans to eventually expand to a dinner service as well. Parkhill describes his menu of gourmet sandwiches and salads as "Delamerican," or contemporary American cuisine with a local twist.

(EDITOR'S NOTE: NO CLUE what "Delamerican" means, but I love it when restaurant guys make up their own words.)

Lapp's Kitchen also features prepared meals, fresh-baked desserts, and a wide selection of corporate catering options, including "corporate-to-go" service (full meals prepared and delivered to local businesses with an hour's notice).

Jack's Jumble: Favorite photo of the day

News Journal photographer Jennifer Corbett often takes many of the food/restaurant shots for the paper. But she recently went from shooting mess halls to shooting one big mess.

In the image above, Corbett captured Jack Markell working at his makeshift desk at his campaign headquarters in Wilmington's Shipyard Shops the day after he was elected the new Governor of Delaware.

Are "sweeping" changes coming soon?

Proud to be a Delawarean

If you've lived in Delaware for any length of time, you get used to the ribbing....

There's the wheeziest of the wheezies: "Dela-where?"

And that other tired saw: "Delaware? What state is that in?"

One of my favorite lines came from Food Network boob Tyler Florence, who when we were talking about Delaware, said to me: "Oh yeah, I've been to Baltimore before." (Huh? I still have NO idea what the hell he was talking about.)

But a lot of people are geographically challenged. I get it. And when you live in a tiny state (that's still not as small as Rhode Island) you just get used to it.

Once, in the Bahamas, I told some guy I was from Delaware and he said "Wow, that's a state you never hear about."

No more.

Love him or hate him - Joe Biden made Delaware history last night. (And, oh yeah, so did Barack Obama.) Pretty damn cool.

The photo above comes from my colleague Rhina Guidos. She said a friend from the Newseum in Washington, D.C. , took it. Look closely and you'll see The News Journal's "Yes, We Can" front page.

It's one of 50 on display at the Newseum's Pennsylvania Avenue entrance.

Ox on white, a Sussex County tradition: UPDATE

UPDATE: Vice-president elect Joe Biden will be attending Thursday's Return Day celebration.

If you're in Georgetown today, lift your nose in the air and breathe deep.
The aroma of smoky, slow-roasted beef around the Sussex County Courthouse and The Circle the day after an election has been a Delaware tradition since at least the 19th century.

Sometime around 10 this morning, Mark Pettyjohn and his crew of workers will begin hauling out about 500 pounds of charcoal and firing up three cinderblock open pits.

Then, for the next 24 hours, they'll roast roughly 2,200 pounds of beef for Return Day, on Thursday.

The day isn't just about celebrating the political winners -- and giving a conciliatory pat on the back to the losers. It's about getting one of those free beef-on-white sandwiches.

More than 1,400 sandwiches are handed out during the festivities. The crowd this year is expected to reach at least 30,000 people. (Organizers say it's always higher after a presidential election.) The parade steps off at 1:30 p.m. Ox roast sandwiches are served after the returns are read from the courthouse balcony at 4 p.m.

The carnival atmosphere has been a part of Georgetown's Return Day since as early as 1792. While a town crier announced the results of an election, the area around the courthouse featured booths serving up opossum, rabbit, fish and oysters, as well as cakes and candies. Beginning in the 19th century, roasted ox sandwiches were served to the gathered throng.

Some of the food traditions remain unchanged, but the ox roast has been tweaked.

"Well, it's not an ox. It's steer now," says Pettyjohn, who has been tending to the roast beast every Return Day since the mid-1990s.

The ox roast committee once only barbecued bulls, but no longer.

"It was a mess. Everyone was just suckin' in a lot of smoke," says Pettyjohn, who now roasts 10- to 15-pound chunks of meat.

The cooking technique was changed in 1990 after a fire broke out in the shed where two bulls were being roasted the day before Return Day. Firefighters reportedly used foam to extinguish the blaze, making the meat inedible.

A decision had to be made, or there would be no free sandwiches. Pettyjohn says the cooking crew purchased quarters of beef.

"It was easier and it cooked a lot faster and you got more meat. From then on, we got quarters and rounds," Pettyjohn says, but adds that he still buys one steer to roast on a spit to maintain some sense of tradition. The beef is purchased from the Haass Family Butcher Shop, in Dover.

This year, the pit is set up on South Race Street, next to Domino's Pizza. You can smell and see the beef roasting tonight as three bands begin playing 6-11 p.m. for a street dance.

Don't ask for a slice or sandwich just yet.

Pettyjohn and his crew will be babysitting the meat until it's time to slice and serve it on Thursday.

Throughout the night and into Thursday morning, the crew will mop the beef with a homemade basting sauce.

"They make up their own recipe for the sauce. They don't divulge all the ingredients," says Rosalie Walls, president of the Return Day committee.

But Pettyjohn will say that the sauce includes vinegar, crushed red pepper, Texas Pete hot sauce, poultry seasoning, salt, pepper and a few other ingredients. The taste, he says, is similar to the barbecue sauce that's slathered on barbecue chicken sold at roadside stands operated by local VFW organizations and fire companies in Kent and Sussex counties.

"But we delete the egg," Pettyjohn says. He says the fiery red Texas Pete hot sauce provides the kick.

"We put it in a 5-gallon bucket and we mop it on all night, every 15 to 20 minutes or so. It's like a regular, old-fashioned mop. We let it drip on and splash."

Sandwiches are served to "anyone who wants one," Pettyjohn says. "It goes from 45 minutes to an hour. You're constantly handing out sandwiches."

Pettyjohn will give the beef a few taste tests during the barbecuing, but after tending the fire, mopping and standing near the pit for more than 24 hours, he'd rather eat anything but an "ox" sandwich.

"It's kind of like afterward I don't want to even want to see a hamburger," he says.

Guess that's another Sussex County ox roast tradition.

Finding pizza

Last week, weaving my way home from Easton, Md., after covering a field hockey game, I decided to take a different, and longer, way back north just to drive somewhere I hadn't been before.

It led me to Cafe Tamburelli's in Greenwood (that's in Delaware, if you didn't know) and the result was a discovery of some very good pizza, with spicy sauce, the right amount of cheese (which means there was no skimping) and a soft crust that gets crunchy at the end.

Be sure to check this place out, only a half-mile off Route 13 in Greenwood (3 West Market St., 349-9700). They feature all the normal offerings of an Italian restaurant, and have an extensive pizza menu that includes Chicago-style stuffed pizza and a super-large 28-inch pizza, presumably for parties. Go to http://www.cafetamburelli.com/ to learn more.

In a note on desserts, the Chocolate Pastry Delights from Papa John's are outstanding, especially if you like chocolate. Served hot out of the oven, these are better than the Chocolate Dunkers from Pizza Hut. Next time you order from Papa John's, add the pastry delights as a treat, and try not to get addicted.

Mac and cheese and freebies

Hey all, hope you had a great weekend.

I had a comfort food Sunday - made an adult-style macaroni and cheese in between the football games - that not only cleaned out my refrigerator, it was pretty damn good too.

While I cooked whole wheat penne al dente, I made a fast bechamel sauce out of butter, flour, milk, some heavy cream, white wine and chicken broth. (It was really "a little of this, a little of that.")

Then, I chopped and tossed in all the cheese leftovers from my fridge - everything from asiago to fontina to farmhouse cheddar to swiss cheese - and threw in two chopped fresh tomatoes (the last from a friend's garden.) While rooting around the veggie bin, I also came across a remaining half bag of fresh baby arugula. In it went.

A couple of slices of leftover rye bread was tossed into a food processor for bread crumbs and then I mixed the crumbs with olive oil, salt, pepper and paprika to top the mac and cheese.

Baked in a buttered oval pan at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes and then served up cheesy, gooey, crispy goodness to rave reviews.

It was a delicious "who's-counting-calories?" kind of meal, so tonight I'm eating soup for dinner.

IN OTHER NEWS: I'm thinking about writing a story on some "freebies" you get at restaurants - such as the toffee you get at the end of the meal (along with the bill) at Pizza by Elizabeths; the pickled mushrooms recently brought to the table at Harry's Savoy Grill; and the popular macaroon at the Hotel du Pont.

Can you think of other places that hand out freebies?

Let me know at ptalorico@delawareonline.com or comment below. I'll check it out.

Thanks.