Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Fishing for a good sandwich?

I dropped into the Wilmington Riverfront Market today for lunch and it was first day opening for the new Harry's Fish Market + Grill.

This is the new stall - across from Tokyo Sushi - which had been the former home of Lapp's Kitchen.

Xavier Teixido - who also owns the next door Harry's Seafood Grill - was overseeing the operations and executive chef David Leo Banks was behind the counter checking on all details, along with a slew of staff.

Teixido suggested I try the fried fish sandwich ($7.95).

It's an excellent sandwich. The white fish - (sorry, I started chatting and forgot to ask what kind!) - is breaded and fried crisp. It's served on a LeBus roll that's slathered with spicy Sriracha aioli and packed with snow pea sprouts, lettuce, tomato and onion. A pickle comes on the side. The fish was meaty, moist and very fresh tasting. I just inhaled it and I'm already thinking about what I just ate.

The menu includes fish and chips and coleslaw ($8.95), crabcake sandwich ($11.95), fried scallops and chips ($9.95); burgers and cheeseburgers range from $4.50 to $6.25. Hand-cut fries are $3.95.

Breakfast of beignets - 3 for $4.50 and New Orleans coffee ($1.50 medium; $1.95 large) is supposed to start tomorrow. Yippee.

This is a really nice addition to the market.

Attaboys all around.

FOOD DOGs | Cheesecake anyone?

By ANDRE SMITH

As a part of Christiana Mall's redevelopment plan, it announced today that THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY chain will open a stand-alone store in 2010.

Can you say, 'Outstanding!?'

Read more here.

Attention Francophiles


It's written by Slate wine columnist - and Hockessin resident - Michael Steinberger, who just so happens to be married to my old pal Kathy.
The book has already gotten nods in Gourmet and New York magazine.
I love this blurb from Marco Pierre White:
"One of the greatest books I've read."
Now, that's cool.

Monday, June 29, 2009

Frozen falafel

New York City's annual Fancy Food Show is underway now through Tuesday. I was scheduled to attend the show - that is, until recent illness unfortunately curtailed my activities. So no roaming the Javits Center which features something like four football fields full of 140,000 plus specialty food/beverage products.



(This show is always a crazy food circus - Chicago chef Rick Bayless who just won last week's Top Chef Masters competition was making tacos there yesterday! - and I'm pretty bummed to be missing out on the activities.)



While this is no substitute for attending the show, I will share a new product that I just tried from Veggie Patch, one of the fastest growing brands in the $300 million meat alternative retail market.



OK, so I'm not much of a frozen food fan, but I enjoyed the new Falafel line, which is fully cooked, spiced chickpea balls. (Three meatballs are about 80 calories.)


The meatballs, which are frozen or can be refrigerated, are flash fried and oven baked. You just zap 'em in the microwave and eat in a pita or as a side dish or appetizer. No artificial ingredients and trans-fat free.


I've topped them with a homemade tzaziki (Greek yogurt with shredded cucumbers) or hummus. Tahini also is good. It's a quick, good lunch or light dinner.


You can find Veggie Patch Falafel at Acme Market, Costco Wholesale, Pathmark and Shop Rite.

Chopped or crowned?


Tune in to the Food Network on Tuesday to see if Wilmington chef Julio Lazzarini walks away with $10,000 or gets "Chopped."

Lazzarini, owner of Wilmington’s Orillas Tapas Bar & Restaurant, is one of four contestants on the food competition series that airs at 10 p.m.

"Chopped" challenges four chefs to turn mystery ingredients into a dish. According to the web site, the chefs are cooking with whole calamari, bison meat and ancho chilies.

Plates are judged on taste, creativity, and presentation.




After each course, a contestant gets "chopped" until the chef left standing collects the cash.


The show was taped in April in New York City and Lazzarini is sworn to secrecy about the outcome.

But he does have a viewing party planned Tuesday at the Market Street restaurant. Call 427-9700 for more information.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Soup cures all

Hellloooo. I finally feel like I'm ready to be back among the living after more than a week of being under the weather. Still in a slower than I'd like to be recovery mode, but one of the best things I've had to lift my spirits and soul was a restorative bowl of pho.

I'm a pho (pronounce it fuh) fanatic. My heart still remains with Pho 75 in Philadelphia - a truly great and cheap soup joint near the Philly Italian Market - but recently there have a few worthy contenders in Delaware - FINALLY - to slurp up this delish Vietnamese beef noodle soup. Woo-hoo, it's about time.

Here's a place I've written about before in Bear.

And I just had a bowl of pho at the new Pho Cali on Kirkwood Highway next to the Pathmark store in Kirkwood Plaza Shopping Center (same one as Kohl's, A.C. Moore, etc.)

Not much atmosphere here - it's barely diner-esque - but I was pretty happy with this soup that you eat with chopsticks and a spoon.

Big bowl of pho is $6.95. (Only one size.) My taster is still a little off, but, from what I could tell, the beefy broth, made with onions, scallions and perhaps a touch of star anise, is very good.

I got the rare flank steak pho - they also have pho with meatballs, tofu and chicken (but to me that's not really pho which is traditionally made with beef stock.) The flank steak seemed like a combo of steak and fatty tendon - which I pretty much left in the bowl - so next time, I'm just ordering the rare steak.

The accompaniments on the side - bean sprouts, limes, basil and jalapeno were all fresh, crisp and plentiful. The rice noodles are a little thin, and I don't believe they're handmade - but this is still a very good and inexpensive meal for under $8. There's a kicky red chili sauce on the table that's worth dotting in the soup if you want some added heat, along with the usual hoisin and Sriracha.

Friday, June 26, 2009

No reader mail today

Sorry everyone, I still don't feel well enough to dig through the reader mail bag or write indepth updates.

But I should be back on Monday.

In the meantime, uh, Michael Jackson. Shock-o-roni. "Thriller" was the soundtrack of my life in the early 1980s.

And we should have a story in tomorrow's paper about MJ's visit to the Brandywine River Museum back in 1985.

The pop star loved the Wyeths and got a personal tour of the museum by Jamie and the late Andrew Wyeth. Then, he had lunch at Big Bend, the Chadds Ford, Pa., home of George "Frolic" Weymouth, founder of the museum and president of the Brandywine Conservancy.

Weymouth, who may be best known to many as the man who leads the carriage procession every year at Winterthur's Point-to-Point races, also took Jackson on a carriage ride along the Brandywine River.

Oh to have been a fly on the wall that day!

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

I'll be back


Hey foodies,

Unfortunately I've been down-and-out for the past few days and won't have a new post until Thursday or Friday. But, please, come back. I have so much to share!

Chifa, Jose Garces's new Peruvian-Cantonese eatery at 7th and Chestnut streets in Philly, was an amazing experience - oh, those pisco sours! oh, the pork belly buns! - and Zahav, modern Israeli off Dock Street (just off Walnut between 2nd and 3rd streets) in Old City, which we stopped into for a few more nibbles, more than lived up to the hype.

(We got extra special treatment at Zahav after one of my pals, who speaks Turkish, enchanted some staffers from Istanbul.)

Both are MUST visit eateries. Well worth the drive to Philadelphia. More is coming.


In the meantime, nosh on my Diner's Digest column. The Aloha Dark Chocolate Bark (see photo above) available at Moore Brothers Wine Company in Trolley Square is terrific.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Ameritage Bistro closed


Word on the street is that Ameritage Bistro at Ninth and Orange streets in Wilmington, has closed its doors.

The previous restaurant at that location - Brandywine Brewing Co. - lasted about six months.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Reader Mail

Happy Friday. Is that the sun peeking out? I hope so. These endless days of gloomy rain are getting way too much for me. If I wanted Seattle weather, I would live in Seattle.

I hope your weekend is filled with food and fun. I'm heading to Philly to check out some new places, hoping to fit in a visit to Chifa, Jose Garces new Peruvian/Chinese eatery, among them. I'll fill you in next week.

Onto the mailbag. You ask. We answer. Every Friday. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.


QUESTION: I have read a few of your online Q&As and would like to poke around your brain using your trained palate :o) One way I like to relax is to watch a few of the foodie shows on Bravo and Food Network who show me actual dining experiences, as well as, cooking techniques for many dishes that I would so love to experience.

Now, having said that, I was wondering if you have any suggestions for places near Wilmington which could potentially have some of the fantastic menus presented on such shows (i.e., Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives for one). I am so very hoping that there are some places that I can experience clean flavors, using homemade foods and fresh ingredients...with a little twist of the chef's own flair thrown into the mix.

I must admit that I have stopped trying new places after many failed attempts and would so love to find the drive to want to give some local places another chance. Some circumstances that have caused the lack of interest in Wilmington area restaurants I've tried have been pretension and pretty much food lacking flavor and warmth delivered to me at prices not worthy. I don't think that asking for a delicious, unique, warm, friendly and CLEAN environment to enjoy a nice meal should be viewed as unreasonable.

Again, I must admit that I have stopped trying and am hoping that you may have a few suggestions to bring me back around to wanting to give the area another try *smile*

I will say that the most enjoyable meal and service I have experienced in the past 3 months was at Pomodoro Ristorante Italiano. My friend and I asked to order off the menu for dishes that the Head Chef considered his favorite to make. We simply asked the server to ask him what dish(es) he enjoys preparing the most. The experience was divine and warming. Now...I'd love to know of others that can deliver the same ambiance and fine food. I am not saying I want everyone to serve me off menu *smile* The experience was just a lovely one, and I know there HAVE to be others to which I am not aware.

Thank you for letting me pick your brain a bit. I look forward, hopefully, to hearing from you :o)

Lora

ANSWER: Hi Lora. Thanks for reading. I am not sure how to answer this question. I'm not much of a fan of "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives." Mostly, it has something to do with host Guy Fieri, whom I can only take in very tiny doses. And I'm glad that you had such a good experience at Pomodoro, but I'm honestly a little confused because the Union Street restaurant is none of the above - diner, drive-in or dive. That said, I've recently become enamored with Sovana Bistro near Kennett Square, Pa., which I believe should cover your requirements for fresh ingredients and local flavors, but again, it's not a diner, drive-in or dive.

When it comes to diners, I do like Lucky's Coffee Shop on U.S. 202.

QUESTION: Sometime ago you (or someone at The News Journal) reviewed a BBQ place in (or around) Kirkwood. It was only open during the weekend, I think.
Is there anyway to search the archives.? If not, you you have any knowledge of this place.

Thank you,
John Ramsey

ANSWER: John, you're in luck. Eric Ruth has a story today about several BBQ places. Here's the link.

And here are a few other BBQ places that we listed in our Biggest 55 Hours section which ran last month.

QUESTION: Hi Patricia, I need your help. I love the spezzato sandwiches they serve at the Italian festival. I have searched the internet high and low and can not find a recipe, I am not sure if it is a local dish. Do you have a recipe or know where I can find one. Thank you very much for your help.

Kevin Cuff


ANSWER: Kevin, I forwarded your request to our longtime food columnist Nancy Coale Zippe who hunts down reader requests for recipes. She does have a recipe and will print it very soon in an upcoming column that appears every Wednesday in The News Journal. Buon appetito.


QUESTION: Hi Patricia,

I'm writing to see if you happen to know any good local restaurants in the area that offer Snapping Turtle Soup? As a kid, we frequently enjoyed soup at the Lynnhaven in New Castle. Bookbinders used to offer it , and I remember the Canal House did as well. I'm curious if you happen to know any local establishments that offer the soup still? I know many people are scared off by the thought of eating a turtle, but after watching The Turtle Man video on YouTube, I figured it was time to ask the pros.

Also, does Port Penn still have the Marshland festival? In HS I volunteered at the event, and there were tons of great recipes available for sampling at the event, but that was over 10 years ago now.

Thanks in advance.

Justin Thomas

ANSWER: That's a head scratcher Justin. Turtle soup is something that you used to see on old-school "continental" restaurant menus, but I haven't seen it in a long time. But I did check out the dinner menu at the Mendenhall Inn off Rt. 52 in Mendenhall, Pa., just over the Del. state line, and - lookie, lookie - snapper soup is offered. Here's the link.

I don't believe the marshland festival is still going on. I remember checking around about it a while back when we were hunting down places to eat muskrat - a dish that I don't ever wish to eat again.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

First look: Vincente's

EDITOR'S NOTE: This isn't a review, per se, just a first glance at a new eatery.

I've been curious about the new Vincente's on Kirkwood Highway since getting notice several months ago that Vincent Mancari was relocating his Italian restaurant to Library Plaza across from All Saints Cemetery. It opened earlier this month.
A good many of the dishes are under $20, though the veal and steak can creep up. I think the highest prices entree is about $27.

The restaurant has two separate dining rooms and a big bar in the middle. The night of our visit one of the dining rooms was about three-quarters of the way filled and the bar was busy.

Many servers are young and enthusiastic, almost too enthusiastic. Some swooped in and cleared away an appetizer and bread before we were finished eating and in the process removed our knives and never replaced them. After trying to in vain get someone's attention for replacements, we finally snatched some utensils off another table.

Our very friendly waitress brought us each an "amuse-bouche" of what I believe she called "Flounder Vincente" - one of house specials - that she says the owner likes to share with all his customers. It had a nicely seasoned, crunchy exterior and the fish was moist. The small piece fish was put on a white plate sans garnish or any other flourishes, which is a first for me. It was exactly like giving someone a taste of something - as you would do at home. Interesting. Next came gratis toasted bread with an soft, orange cheese squeezed on the top - somewhat like mustard is squeezed on to a hot dog.

We didn't order the tableside Caesar made by Mr. Mancari - something my family often did when we visited Vincente's old Wilmington location. (The photo above is from The News Journal archives.) But many diners, some obviously longtime fans, knew this was the way to go. It's pure theater - something you don't often find in restaurants today. Servers roll a cart tableside and then the 78-year-old master salad maker starts by beating the wooden bowl with his salad tongs. He often chats up customers as he works his magic with romaine, anchovies, vinegar, oil and seasonings. The best part? Watching Mancari toss the locatelli cheese into the bowl from a distance. During our visit, he hit it with the accurancy of an NBA foul shooter to the delight of many diners.

My favorite dish was a shared appetizer of eggplant rolantine ($9.95) with sausage, cheese and spinach in a red sauce. I could eat a whole entree of this and would have finished the dish if an over-eager employee hadn't whisked it away.

The Veal Crab Louisa ($20.95) is a veal cutlet topped with cheese that also includes prosciutto, crab meat and mushrooms in a light white wine sauce. There were a lot of competing flavors on the plate that, after a few bites, become muddled.

You'd better be a big garlic lover when it comes to the shrimp scampi ($19.95). Our dish had several whole cloves dotted throughout. The dish came with a side of spaghetti with a sweet tasting red sauce that won't make me forget my mother's or grandmother's sauce anytime soon.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Riverfront Market exit


Another one bites the dust.....

P&S Ravioli, which has been a part of the Wilmington Riverfront Market since it opened nearly 10 years ago, has shut down its stall.

A big white sign stretched across the deli cases thanks customers for their service. Some of the pastas will be sold at the City Market stall.

I hope they get a new vendor soon. Wilmington's indoor market doesn't rival the carnival of sights and smells found at the Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia or Baltimore's Lexington Market.

Comparisons between the three urban markets probably aren't fair because Wilmington's Riverfront Market is a much, much smaller version of those other gastronomic bazaars

Food D.O.G.s: Kentucky Grilled Chicken


By Peter Bothum

You've endured the barrage of ads and billboards for KFC's new Kentucky Grilled Chicken. You read about the controversy where the chain offered free chicken and then had to turn people away because they didn't have enough.

But have you actually tried it?

I took the plunge this week and ordered up a two-piece meal for lunch.

At first I felt kind of sad about leaving my old fried friend behind - Mr. Original Recipe was there, waiting for me on the other side of the drive-thru window, and I turned my back on him like a modern-day Benedict Arnold.

As advertised, Col. Sanders has indeed taken off his devil horns and substituted it for a healthier halo. According to KFC's nutritional guide, the grilled version has 4 grams of total fat and 180 calories in a single breast, compared with 21 grams of total fat and 370 calories in the original recipe.

But that dirty old man is still hiding his pitchfork behind his back - that grilled skin is too tasty and just greasy enough to be totally clean. In fact, a breast of the grilled chicken only has 10 fewer milligrams of cholesterol than a breast of the original recipe.

I dug the grilled chicken. The flavor was reminiscent of Boston Market's chicken but definitely improved on what that chain serves up. The meat underneath the grilled layer was nice and moist, perhaps enhanced by the fact that the chicken wasn't fried.

In my opinion, however, the grilled chicken didn't measure up to the real deal.

The Colonel's signature recipe is there, but it's more of a nip of the KFC goodness instead of the typical power-packed punch. In other words, he can put his herbs and spices on a layer of grilled skin, but the classic recipe melds best with a fried, cholesterol-laced bedding.

It's kind of like a fan of Porter beer trying a Miller High Life or a cigarette smoker chewing Nicorette gum. The buzz is there, but it's just not the same.

On the upside, I didn't leave my meal with the typical regret that follows a visit with my old fried friend. I felt satiated but not sluggishly sorry, and I guess that's a good thing.

Final verdict: I go to KFC to get my butt kicked by the Colonel and his fried chicken, for better and for worse. If I want grilled chicken, I'll go to a cookout.

Friday, June 12, 2009

Reader mail


Happy freaking Friday. Is that the sun I see? It's been so long, I'm not sure.

It's been one of the loonnngggest weeks of my life - illness and furloughs decimated our department and I'm one tired editor.

Ooooh! One of my colleagues just handed me a scone from Liz Marden's Hockessin dessert and pastry shop. (Thank
s Lucia! Air kiss, air kiss!) Just the little pick-me-up I needed to go along with my morning cuppa.

Some commenters have taken me to the wood shed for thinking that the name of Chip Hearn's cheeky "Better than Sex" ice cream is funny as well as a pretty successful marketing tool. Here's Wednesday's story.

Just so we're clear, we are talking about ice cream - ice cream - not "Penthouse" magazine. In fact, it's ice cream named after cake - a cake Chip's sister serves and one that the Food Network's Paula Deen also makes. It's right here on the Food Network web site. Deen and Hearn may be a little saucy, but neither one is Larry Flynt.

But I'll defend your right to express your opinions, even if I don't happen to agree with them. So keep firing away. (Air kiss, air kiss!)


However, there is one very simple way to avoid "exposing" - tee hee - "Better than Sex" ice cream to children or to anyone who is offended by the name: Don't go to the ice cream stand.

But you'll be missing out on some great ice cream. (Hearn has 70 plus flavors.) And if you don't believe me, then maybe you'll believe Gourmet magazine and Food Network, who have both raved about the ice cream made by Jim Mitchell of Woodside Farm Creamery in Hockessin.


Okey-doke. Had dinner at the new Stone Balloon Winehouse in Newark. Mamma mia! That ain't the Balloon, I remember. It's gorgeous. It smells good. There is wine served here! The menu includes several hits along with a few swings-and-misses.

Here's my Taste column for your reading pleasure.

Friday means reader mail. You ask. We answer. Email your dining queries at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

BOUQUETS FOR THE BALLOON'S QUAIL

QUESTION: Hi Pat. Your review of the Winehouse was very honest and interesting. I have not eaten a whole meal there, but have had samplings of some things. I completely agree with you that the quail is very good.

Not sure if you ever will return (not sure that it is worthy of a return visit based on your review), but I do highly recommend their desserts. They should play them up more.

It is fun to have a place like the Winehouse on Main Street in Newark. The wines are very good, but they compete with Ryan German's Caffe Gelato in that category.

Personally, for a comparable menu, I love Sovana Bistro. What do you think? Thanks for all your reviews!

ANSWER: Thanks for the email. I recently reviewed Sovana Bistro in Kennett Square. Equal love back. Here's the link.

A MIXED BAG OF .....SOMETHING

QUESTION: Good morning, Patricia.
Yesterday, I went to the farmer's market for a few items. One thing we really love is baby spinach. I bought a bag of what I thought was baby spinach and when I opened it this morning to put some on my sandwich, I discovered it wasn't. What was in the bag was stems and leaves and flowers from what appears to be pea plants. Okay, so we also love sugar snap and snow peas, and I often grow them in my garden. However, I've never eaten the plant.

What do you think?

I figure they must be edible, if they're selling them there, but nowhere have I ever seen a recipe or mention of them. Hope you can help me.

Thanks,

Carol

ANSWER: Carol, kudos to you for shopping a farmers market. Local, seasonal is the way to go. I wish I could tell you what you bought, but without seeing it, I'm afraid to even make a guess. Readers, any suggestions or ideas?

DOBER DAN FROM SLOVENIA!

QUESTION: Dear Patricia,

First of all regards from Slovenia. By coincidence I found your article about Kendov Dvorec and I was so pleased when I discovered with such nice words you have described me.

I hope you are doing well and from time to time we are still talking with Klavdij about your group. We had really nice time.

Thank you very much again for spreading such nice image about me and Klavdij.

Best regards and hope to see you again.
Bogdan Toncic

ANSWER: Readers, last fall I wrote about my trip to Slovenia and the dumpling cooking class I took there taught by Klavdij Pirih and Bogdan Tonci
c at a beautiful hotel called the Kendov Dvorec in Spodnja Idrija. Bodgan was a wonderful tour guide to the country and not only did I cook with him, he also took us to visit many wineries and local sites. It was a wonderful vacation. (And I have since sent Klavdij and him copies of the article.)

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Thoughts on spinach and "Sex"....

Had a ball hanging last Friday with Chip Hearn and store manager Lisa Young at Hearn's Ice Cream Store on Rehoboth Avenue near the boardwalk in Rehoboth Beach.

A fun day even though it seems like we were in the middle of a monsoon with all the rain and wind.

Hearn is a great guy with a terrific sense of humor and every summer he always comes up with really wacky flavors. Jim Mitchell of the fabulous Woodside Farm Creamery in Hockessin makes the ice cream, so you know it's really good.

Here's my story today.

So once I heard that Hearn was offering spinach a.k.a. "Popeye's Favorite" ice cream on the menu this year, I hopped in the car and was in Rehoboth the next day.

Now that is really weird. I must say I'm not a fan of savory ice cream, but I was intrigued and had to sample it.

Spinach ice cream, what can I say? It's not really horrible - it tastes like a fresh spinach salad, but it's not overpowering.

Do I want a whole cone of this? That would be a no. But a tasting spoonful is fine.

The flavor that is causing much buzz, as you imagine and just as the fiendishly clever Hearn planned, is "Better than Sex."

Is it? Let's leave something to the imagination. Try it yourself and decide.

But I will say this is: That's one terrific ice cream. It's cake batter ice cream blended with Duncan Hines Devil's Foods cake mix, a strong vanilla extract, crunched up Heath bars and ribbons of fudge. If you like chocolate, you'll really like this.

Do I want a cone of this? Oh, yes, indeedy. Maybe even a pint or a quart.

I spent a good two-hours chatting with Hearn and sampling ice cream. (Hey, it's my job, people.)

And believe me, you were glad it wasn't your job when it came to trying the flavor called "Tastes like Chicken." There's no poultry in the ice cream, Hearn just calls it that because he says people always say a weird flavor tastes like, well, you know what.

The flavor is garlic amaretto chip - amaretto flavored ice cream, colored red with chopped garlic and chocolate chips added. Hearn says he made it red as kind of goof from his old bartending days at the Starboard. (He once owned the Dewey Beach bar.)

Hearn says whenever a customer would order a shot that a bartender didn't know how to make, he would just tell them to make it red. Most shots are red, and sloshy customers seldom knew the difference. So there you have it.

Anyway, "Tastes Like Chicken," quite frankly, tastes like nothing I ever want to eat again. Ever. There was enough garlic in it to kill all the "Twilight" vampires and it could also take out the entire cast of "True Blood."

Icky, yucky, bleech.

It was the only ice cream that I sampled that I couldn't finish.

More "Sex," please.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Restaurant freebies

Here's one of the stories in Wednesday's Life section:


By PATRICIA TALORICO
The News Journal

Forget the complimentary bread basket.

Some restaurateurs are doing a little more for customers than handing out free rolls.

Restaurant "freebies" or little extras given before, during and after a meal can be a savvy way to thank diners for their patronage and possibly ensuring their return.

Wilmington's Moro restaurant and Sovana Bistro, of Kennett Square, Pa., are among the many eateries that start diners with a no-charge amuse-bouche, a one-bite nibble, sent out by the chef.

The Hotel du Pont's Green Room has long ended meals with its signature freshly baked macaroons, while for nearly 16 years Pizza by Elizabeths has presented free pieces of handmade toffee to each diner along with the bill.

"We call it Greenville crack cocaine," jokes Pizza by Elizabeths' co-owner Betsy LeRoy about the toffee, which became a customer favorite not long after the restaurant opened in 1993.

"We decided when we opened that we wanted to give the customer one little last sweet bite before they left," LeRoy said. "I'm not a big dessert eater, but I always like something a little sweet at the end of a meal."

At first, the restaurant gave out buttercreams and white and dark chocolate bark. But LeRoy soon began looking for another confection to offer and turned to her family for advice.

"My mom made what we called 'chock o' nut toffee' every year for Christmas. I asked her if I could have the recipe."

The toffee - which has a crackly caramel base made with sugar, butter and cream - is topped with melted chocolate and toasted pieces of walnuts.

"It's pretty labor-intensive," LeRoy says of the toffee, which cools on baking sheets before being broken by hand.

While the Pizza by Elizabeths staff continued making buttercreams and bark, it wasn't long before customers began asking solely for the toffee - and sometimes even fighting over the pieces.

"Everyone just wanted it. Now that's all we make. I told my mother, 'You missed the boat. You should have been a candy maker. You'd be sitting on easy street right now,'" LeRoy says laughing.

The gratis toffee - one piece per customer - has actually made some diners lifelong Pizza by Elizabeths fans. After one man left a comment card complaining that the restaurant was "stingy with that toffee," LeRoy wrote him a letter explaining the involved process of the candy making, thanked him for his business and then sent along a free box of toffee.

"He said he would be a walking advertisement on Kennett Pike," LeRoy says.

For those customers who want more than one piece, the candy is now available for sale at the restaurant in 1/4-pound boxes for $6 and 1/2-pound boxes for $12.

Savory chips

Free bowls of salty munchies are a given at many restaurants and taverns. But Capers & Lemons takes it one step further.

The Italian restaurant makes the rosemary-flavored potato chips that it sets out for customers sipping cocktails at the bar.

"We were trying to do something unique and were looking for a different way to set us apart," says Carl Georigi, owner of the Mill Creek-area eatery, off Centerville Road.

Homemade potato chips have been a part of Georigi's Hockessin restaurant, Dome, for several years.

The deep-fried chips at Capers & Lemons, which also grace some plates in the dining room, are made with thinly sliced potatoes that are sprinkled with rosemary, garlic power and salt and pepper.

Georigi says the homemade chips are a natural extension of the kitchen, where executive chef Mike O'Hare also makes his own mozzarella and cures his own meats.

"They're out on the bar as a savory, salty offering. It encourages you to drink and it's a little tease as to what's to come," Georigi says.

Bags of the chips also are sold in the restaurant's adjoining market for $2.95.

Cutting costs

Not every restaurateur believes in giveaways, especially in a dodgy economy.

Last fall, Harry's Savoy Grill, in Brandywine Hundred, offered customers plates of complimentary pickled mushrooms. Now, the only freebies at the Naamans Road restaurant are the mints at the front door.

"Over the years, we've done those things, but we currently don't," says Harry's owner Xavier Teixido. "It's expensive."

And the free crocks of smooth, creamy, homemade cheese spread that had graced the tables at the Hunter's Den restaurant for more than 27 years have been removed.

Owner Don Jester says the cheese spread, a family recipe, was first served in 1981 when his parents, Don Sr. and Helen Marie Jester, purchased the old Blue Lantern Inn on Kirkwood Highway and renamed it the Hunter's Den.

The tradition followed when the Hunter's Den moved to its present Marshallton location, at 3517 Old Capitol Trail.

But several months ago, Jester stopped giving away the cheese spread. "Some people would eat it and say 'I don't need an appetizer.' "

"We're trying to cut things back," says the restaurateur, who also has scaled back prices at the eatery and now offers a $5.95 lunch menu and $10.95 dinner menu.

The cheese spread isn't gone; it's just become a part of the menu.

"We're still offering it as an appetizer, and for $3.95 it's pretty dirt cheap," says Jester, adding that the spread also is available for takeout. A one-pound container is $5.95.

"It's staying," he says. "We're selling about 20 to 30 pounds a week."

Just don't ask for the recipe. "It's a secret," Jester says. "I've had phone calls asking what's in it, but I can't tell you."

Sometimes the best things in life aren't free.

FOOD DOGs: Pure Bread is fast, filling and flavorful

By ANDRE L. SMITH

When I need a fast lunch that packs great taste and a portion that will feed this 350-pound appetite, there is one place that pops into mind right away: Pure Bread.

Caught lunch there today with a friend, and had to send a Food DOGs shout out to Pure Bread for their friendly service and excellent sandwiches. While there are tons of choices, the sandwich of my choosing is a simple one:


  • Turkey with bacon

  • Sourdough bread

  • Lettuce

  • Mayo

  • Pickle on the side



The best thing about this sandwich is that the meat is stacked so high that you've got to open wide to get a good bite. It seems that this is the norm since I saw other dining with a similar amount of meat on their sandwiches. Add soup, chips, and a drink and you'll leave full and looking forward to your next trip. Mine might be tonight.

As an added bonus, you can get a coffee/cappuccino to get you through the rest of your afternoon.

TIP:
Don't forget to pick up a Pure Bread punch card, if you plan to visit frequently.

FIVE-STAR QUICK REVIEW
Taste:
Service:
Prices:
Atmosphere:
Overall:

Hey crabby.....UPDATED

** NOTE TO READERS: Some people, who have called and emailed me, seem to think the great crab cake search is over. It has only begun. Eric Ruth and I are chasing down your suggestions. We'll have a story about the hunt and our findings, most likely in late July. Stay tuned. I'll let you know well in advance of publication. Thanks. PT.

So the Great Crab Cake search is well underway and I promised an update.

Stopped in Jake's Seafood House Restaurant at First Street and Baltimore Avenue in Rehoboth Beach last week to give the crab cake there a try. Several readers sent me emails touting these cakes.

I asked for the crab cake sandwich ($11.99) - which my server suggested that I order fried, not broiled - and only ate the cake, not the bun, lettuce and tomato. (But I couldn't resist the fries, especially after topping them with malt vinegar. )

It had lumps of crab meat, some bready filler, but not too much, and hints of mustard, perhaps from the crab itself and maybe from a Dijon condiment bottle. It's a little on the small side. I found myself dabbing on tartar sauce to perk up the flavor, which isn't a great sign.

This is a perfectly fine cake, but not a life changing, oh-my-God-you-gotta-go-there crab cake.

The quest continues.

Monday, June 8, 2009

Harry's update


The new Harry's fish stall at the Wilmington Riverfront Market should be up and running in about three weeks, according to Xavier Teixido, owner of Harry's Savoy Grill and the nearby Harry's Seafood Grill.


Teixido says the stall (formerly Lapp's Market) is under construction and he hopes to have it complete by the end of June.


The stand will be selling fish sandwiches (made with cod or hake), crab cakes, and burgers and fries, among other things.


For breakfast, Teixido, who used to work at Commander's Palace in New Orleans, says he plans to sell beignets and New Orleans coffee.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Reader mail: UPDATED


Hey, all. I'll be out of the office most of Friday in Sussex County.

Lots on the agenda, including sampling spinach - yes, spinach! - ice cream. I plan to chase it down with a few other flavors, namely one called - wait for it, wait for it - "Better Than Sex."

Did that grab your attention?

Exactly.

I'll fill you in on greater detail in Wednesday's Life section.

IN OTHER NEWS:

- Eric Ruth checks out area meat markets in Friday's "Taste" column. Butcher shops, that is. Sorry. Maturity isn't one of my strengths.

- Beer and wine sales in Delaware grocery stores? I hope so. That was one of things I liked about living in the D.C. area. One less trip can be very nice.

- Venice in Wilmington? OK, this I have to see since Venezia is one of my favorite cities. Are you ready for a bellini?

- Just saw a funny Craig's List Help Wanted ad: "Need breakfast cook and line chef at very busy downtown Rehoboth restaurant. Must be a morning person, hard worker and team player. Drama free, please."

- New pho restaurant - Pho Cali on Kirkwood Highway next to the Pathmark is supposed to be open NOW.

- And finally a reader called and asked about the short recipe for tzaziki (Greek yogurt sauce) that ran in last Wednesday's Life section. No, dear reader, it did not have garlic. That was a recipe from Food Network star Ellie Krieger, whose version is different than what some think of as traditional tzaziki. But here's a recipe with garlic. (Sorry, I didn't call you back - you didn't leave your phone number.)

Onto the mailbag. Remember: You ask. We answer. Every Friday. Email questions to me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

CIAO, VINCENTE'S

QUESTION: Hello Friends! After a year of retirement, we are proud to announce our Grand Reopening for the new Vincente's Restaurant! We are now located on 5914 Kirkwood Highway. [Just pass Del. Park and across from All Saints Cemetery.] Our phone number is 302-543-6451 to make reservations. You can also visit our website.
We look forward to seeing you!!!
Sincerely,
Vincente

ANSWER: Thanks, Mr. Mancari. OK, Vincente fans you know where to go for the Italian "talking menu" and tableside caesar salad.

TABLE FOR FOUR? YOU MAY HAVE A WAIT, SIR.

QUESTION: Hi, I thought I would relay a story. Three weeks ago, my wife and I went to Capers & Lemons at 6 p.m. for dinner with no reservations. When we got there, it was mobbed and we were told it was an hour wait. We left and dined elsewhere.

Last week, it was my wife's b-day and I asked her where she wanted to go and she stated, "Let's try that Capers & Lemons place again, but let's get reservations this time." I called them to make a reservation for 4 and was told over the phone they ONLY take reservations for tables of 5 and nothing less. 5? OK. I told the person over the phone that I thought this was a poor rule in a down economy. After speaking to my wife, she chose to go to Okura instead. (Japanese restaurant in Hockessin.)

The Okura meal was excellent and we spent over $200 on that meal. Needless to say, we will not be going to Capers & Lemons at all in the future. I have never heard of a minimum of 5 reservations rule. Is this new or common? We dine out fairly regularly and have never run into this. Love the column.

Bruce

ANSWER: Hi Bruce. Thanks for the email. Yes, I actually have heard of and been to quite a few restaurants that do not take reservations for parties of four and under. Why? I suspect it's because some people are very late for reservations, don't show up for reservations or bother calling to cancel if they can't make a reservation. A table held for a reservation is lost money for the eatery, especially if many other people are waiting. I guess the thinking is that a party of five or more has less of a chance of canceling. Since it opened, Capers & Lemons has been a very popular eatery. The times I've been there has always been a wait.

Glad to hear you had a good dinner at Okura. I'm a fan of their sushi.

Restaurateurs, care to weigh in about no-reservation policies?


TURKISH EATS BACK IN ELKTON, Md.

QUESTION: Hi, Pat. Love your column!


Wanted to share that we recently visited Cappadocia Restaurant in Elkton for lunch and were quite pleasantly surprised with both the food and atmosphere. (Although their website indicates differently, it seems that they're no longer at the former 1st State Diner on 896 - http://www.firststatediner.com/)

For appetizers we tried the Dolma, Hommos, Baba Ghanouj, and Tarama - yum! For mains we tried the lamb Shish Kebab and the Adana Kebab sandwich - both were delicious.

Having stuffed ourselves overly full with this visit, next time we plan to pace ourselves and leave room to try the Baklava and Turkish Coffee.

As fans of Turkish and similarly prepared foods, it's so nice to find a local restaurant that does this cuisine well. (We're also a little worried - we were the only ones in there for lunch - it would be so disappointing if they don't make it.)

E. Daniels

ANSWER: I remember reviewing this same restaurant - you don't say, but is it near the Wawa right over the Delaware state line? - a few years ago. I took some friends who are very familiar with Turkish cuisine and they enjoyed the food, especially the meze and "puffy" bread. But I recall the room was very short on decor - in fact, it had all the charm of a bingo hall. The eatery later changed hands and the food wasn't the same. Sounds like I need to revisit sometime soon.


Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Mr. Zee

A time-out from food and wine to say a few words about Mr. Zee - longtime News Journal sports writer Matt Zabitka, who died last week.

Way back in the day, I occasionally wrote sports stories and would chat about what I was working on with Mr. Zee. (I don't think I ever called him Matt.) He was a kind man who was always encouraging and enthusiastic. Mr. Zee had phone numbers for almost anyone you would ever need to contact - all carefully written on index cards.

You almost never needed to go "check the archives" after talking to Mr. Zee. He knew all the details on local sports figures.

After one of my first "big" features stories in the paper - a piece on the 50th anniversary of the non-defunct Pala's Pizza - Mr. Zee sought me out and was one of the first people in the newsroom to give me a pat on the back. It meant more to me than he would ever know.

At one time in my career, I sat near Mr. Zee and would hear him talking on the phone to athletes. "What's your height and weight" was always part of the conversation - so much so that it's a part of News Journal legend. He always seemed so happy to be writing and talking to people. It was a joy to listen to him and watch him in action in his 70s and 80s - as well as fun to watch him pound out his stories using two fingers to type.

News Journal photographer Fred Comegys said he believes his first assignment as a photographer was going along with Mr. Zee to interview an old-time baseball player. (The photo and story later appeared in Time magazine.)

Tonight, Fred and I said goodbye to Mr. Zee. He was wearing a black suit and red bow tie and had his News Journal press card with him.

Let them eat cake

It's on!

The great crab cake search of the summer has been begun.

Eric Ruth and I are sifting through your suggestions and comments. I began the quest with a trip to Seasons Pizza, a surprising (well, to me) suggestion from a number of readers. That's one tasty broiled cake ($13.99). Photo to the right was taken by Bob Craig, another crab cake fanatic.

I'll keep you updated on the progress. We'll publish the results of the search later this summer.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

What they're reading in the White House: UPDATE

If you're reading this, you're in good company.

This photo from MSNBC.com shows that's a copy of The News Journal - right there in the White House.

Photo (from Joe Biden's office) is from a slide show that accompanies Brian Williams' report on "Inside the Obama White House."

And for the food angle on this post? In the same report, President Obama was shown to be a Five Guys Burger and Fries fan. He and the Secret Service went for a burger run. Did you think Biden will ever introduce him to the Charcoal Pit?

UPDATE: Part II of Brian Williams' report airs tonight at 9.