Burger joint bites the dust

The Burger War of Concord Pike (U.S. 202) has claimed a casualty. According to a NJ photographer, Cheeburger Cheeburger on Wilmington-West Chester Pike (U.S. 202), near Glen Mills, Pa., has closed its doors.

(I just tried calling the phone number and there's no answer, only "A Welcome to Verizon" message, instructing callers to redial the number. The Glen Mills location is no longer listed on the main website.)

Competition for burger dollars on this heavily traveled thoroughfare in recent years has been crazy especially with Five Guys, Jake's and Charcoal Pit - and hot dogs lovers now have the new Johnnie's Dog House as well as the much beloved Jimmie John's.

I thought the burgers were pretty decent at Cheeburger Cheeburger, but the staff was very, very young. Here's my review from last May for your reading pleasure:

It took only minutes to suddenly feel very, very old at Cheeburger, Cheeburger, a retro '50s-style hamburger joint off U.S. 202 that opened in February [2007].

Waiting for a young hostess to seat us recently, a dining pal made a joke about the eatery's name and a classic "Saturday Night Live" skit.

The teen greeter gave us a blank stare.

"Um, you know, the Greek guys in the Chicago diner? John Belushi, Dan Aykroyd and Bill Murray?"

Not even a glimmer of recognition.

(Oh boy. Bail now. If you have to explain the joke, it isn't funny.)

"Cheeburger, cheeburger? No Coke! Pepsi!" Ha, ha.

The silence was deafening.

Obviously born long after Belushi headed to that Great Big Diner in the Sky, the dewy-skinned child shook her head at the fossils standing before her.

"Oh," she finally said, with heart-breaking innocence. "I think my mother may told me something about that."

Ouch. We closed our yaps and felt sorry for the poor misguided youth of today.

The only Belushi they know is the schlub starring in that painfully unfunny sitcom, "According to Jim."

Slumping to the table, we nursed our wounds by overindulging in shakes, root beer floats, egg creams, French fries, onion rings and burgers. Our beloved Belushi, the true Belushi, John Belushi -- google him now, you crazy, mixed-up kids! -- would have been proud.

But, perhaps, we had stumbled on what just may be the double, secret plan of Cheeburger, Cheeburger, a Florida chain that's been around since 1986.

Make everyone feel like old fogies and they'll just eat, eat, eat?

Evil, yet deliciously brilliant. And judging by the number of customers who have had their photographs snapped after chowing down a pounder ($10.39), the chain's 20-ounce monster of a burger, this fiendishly clever scheme seems to be working quite nicely.

We scanned the happy faces of so many people who had pounded pounders -- holy moly! -- and wondered why a customer would willingly consume that much meat in one sitting. Were they drowning their sorrows after trying in vain to explain to the younger-than-springtime staff that there once was this contraption known as a rotary telephone?

Or, maybe, just maybe, it's simply that Cheeburger, Cheeburger's hand-formed, rough-edged, juicy patties are too hard to resist. A few bites into the three-quarter pound Delirious burger ($8.39) and we began to pray: Forgive us O Lord, our daily cholesterol sins. This is a burger that's difficult to stop eating.

Cheeburger, Cheeburger's decor is faux retro. Walls are princessy pink, tables and banquettes are aquamarine. Cut-outs of a hip-swiveling Elvis, a debonair Humphrey Bogart and a cutesy-cute Betty Boop decorate the walls along with other tchotchkes.

As almost everyone in Delaware knows, a real, honest-to-goodness 1950s setting can be found just down the road at the Charcoal Pit. But Cheeburger, Cheeburger, which spears its buns with toothpicks and olives, could easily usurp the Pit's King of Burgers throne.

Toppings include artichoke hearts, chopped garlic, guacamole, pineapple, sun-dried tomatoes and A1 Steak Sauce. You can go as weird and wild as you like.

At 5.5 ounces, the classic burger ($4.99) is a good choice for smaller appetites, though the patty tends to get lost in the roll and among the thick-sliced onions and tomatoes. I'd probably go for the "semi-serious," ($5.89) a 7-ounce patty. Kids meals ($4.99) are made-in-the-shade cool: The burgers and fries arrive at the table in either a paper '64 Mustang or a '57 Chevy.

Non-meat eaters can get the grilled portobello mushroom melt ($7.39), a hefty sandwich served with sautéed onions and Swiss cheese on rye bread. The menu also has "invent your own salads" and grilled chicken breast sandwiches.

But this is a burger joint. Why bother with anything else?

You can't have a burger without fries. Definitely order the "frings" basket ($4.89), a combination of both French fries and onion rings.

The eatery shines with its shakes and malts ($2.99 for a half, $4.39 for a regular) -- there are 72 flavors to chose from, including chocolate banana, Snickers cheesecake and caramel apple. A frosty and very good root beer float ($3.99) arrives in a stainless steel tin.

Maybe we weren't old enough to truly appreciate the merits of a vanilla egg cream ($2.09). To me, it tasted like a watered down vanilla soda.

But the drink that really got us excited was the Shake-A-Soda. Supposedly, our server would shake up the drink at our table. Now this daring act, I had to see. Shaking a soda usually results in a messy, volcanic explosion.

The watermelon soda ($2.09) came to the table in a plastic martini-style shaker and was then -- placed on the table. No explosion, no eruption. Talk about anti-climactic.

"Hold your finger on the lid when you pour. Sometimes, they come off and splash all over the table," our teen server said.

What would Belushi say?

We know, even if she didn't: "No Coke. Pepsi."

Lime beer, anyone? Anyone?

Things that make you go hmmmmm: According to Advertising Age, Bud Light Lime had a big summer.

I remember lime beers being pretty big in Florida a few years ago, but gotta admit this certainly isn't my beverage of choice....

Phils phood (UPDATE)

Woo-hoo. The sun is shining and it's game-on.

I'm headed to the Phils game this afternoon with my Uncle Fran, the funniest and most awesome person on the planet, and we have great seats. (Thanks, Walt. You rock.)

Uncle Fran is a South Philly native, as well as a diehard Phils fan. He's so much fun to hang with. On the phone this morning, we've started plotting stadium eats: Probably split a Tony Luke's pork sandwich (if the line isn't out-of-control) ...peanuts....a dog.....and definitely a beer (or two ....)

I'm driving, he's bringing the Tums.

Go Phils! Isn't September b-ball great?

UPDATE: Hey, wait a minute, where's the sun?? C'mon Mother Nature, don't rain on my parade. Uncle Fran and I are psyched and - Hamels is pitching today.....Have a heart...

UPDATE II Sunday: What a game! Hamels pitched and Rollins had a 2-run home run! Phils win it 7-3 and the Mets LOST. Life is good.

Uncle Fran was a blast - and he seemed to know everyone at the game. Our favorite expression when he ran into someone he knew: "What are you doing here?"

("Classic South Philly line," my uncle said. "I guess they forget this is a baseball stadium.")

It was a little humid at first, but then it turned into a beautiful afternoon/evening. We skipped the Tony Luke's - is there ever NOT a line at the darn stand? Besides, Uncle Fran and I like to go to John's Roast Pork, not too far from his house, so we weren't missing much... But we did load up on dogs and peanuts and really good Oktoberfest beer - not sure who made it - Uncle Fran got the beer, while I stood in a short line for the dogs and peanuts.

Double-header today. (On Sunday.) Just an FYI: the T-shirt hawkers already were outside Citizens Bank Park in full-force touting merchandise for the upcoming Eagles-Dallas match-up. Some of the sayings on the shirts were about as, uh, colorful and as offensive as you'll find.... especially the dude who didn't have a hard time finding a word to rhyme with Romo....and didn't mind shouting it at the top of his lungs.

Classic South Philly...

Happy Friday (UPDATE)

Hey food fans,

Reader mail is coming soon.

I had a crazy morning, but hang in there, I'll get to the mailbag sometime today.

UPDATE: OK, I'm lame. The day got away from me and I can't get to the mailbag today. Look for Reader Mail next week.

PLEASE, keep the email coming: ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Every Friday. You ask. We answer.

In the meantime, chew on this:

- I had a phone interview with Kate Gosselin from the popular TLC TV series "Jon & Kate Plus Eight." (Thanks Kate!) She's funny. Story is coming Wednesday. But here's a tease, Kate told she that when she makes her kids lunch - she has two sets of multiples - she tries to cut the sandwiches into the shape of the first letter of the kid's name. How cute is that? My favorite 5-year-old would so love that.

- USA Today's Jerry Shiver interviews Food Network stars about farmers market finds.

- Stay tuned for the new public television series, "Spain....on the road again," which premieres Sept 20 in primetime and features Chef Mario Batali and Gwyneth Paltrow on a culinary cultural road trip thru Spain.

New York Times food writer Mark Bittman also is part of this series. Bittman told me about the series months ago - he was taking Spanish lessons at the time, actually last time we chatted he was in a cab on the way to lessons (and yelling at the driver for taking the wrong street....that's Bittman..) - I can't wait to see it. Here's a preview.

- Did you see that the new Brandywine Hundred restaurant Rasa Sayang Malaysian Cuisine in Independence Mall, 1601 Concord Pike, Suite 73, has opened??

Anyone been yet?? If so, comment, comment, comment.

Later, potaters.

Shoo, shoo - boo boo

So I learned my lesson (well, kind of..) about making fun of a regional dish.

After I joked last week about "wet bottom" shoofly pie at the Green Dragon Market in Lancaster County, Pa., plenty of readers - through emails and phone calls - slapped my hand, so to speak, with a wooden spoon.

I'm still going through the messages on my voicemail.

You can stop calling now. Mea culpa. Here's the follow-up story today.

I guess I'll keep my thoughts about whoopie pies (tee-hee) to myself.

Look, maturity isn't my strong suit, OK?

Marcella: Update

UPDATE: Look for a story about Marcella in Wednesday's New York Times Dining In/Dining Out section.

"No one has ever done more to spread the gospel of pure Italian cookery in America," said the late New York Times food editor Craig Claiborne.

Claiborne was talking about Marcella Hazan.

Those who appreciate true, classic Italian cuisine - not to be confused with Italian-American - know her simply as Marcella.

Her books, recipes and beautiful writing are inspirational. I met Marcella and her husband, Victor, a well-known food and wine writer, several years ago in Philadelphia during their book tour for "Marcella Cucina."

I had never traveled to Italy at the time, but it was on my radar, especially Venice.

The Hazans were passionate about Venice - they had just closed Marcella's cooking school there and had recently relocated to Florida. They missed Italy's food, people and atmosphere. They encouraged me to go and even said they would help with a place to stay.

Since that meeting - maybe 10 years ago? - I've been to Italy five times (and Venice twice.) I can't stay away. Each fall, I try to discover a new Italian region before settling in for a week's stay in the countryside outside of Florence.

Marcella and Victor Hazan will be coming to Philadelphia's Parkway Central Library, 1901 Vine St., at 7:30 p.m. on Oct. 7 to chat about Marcella's new book "Amarcord: Marcella Remembers" (Gotham Books). I'm very honored that I was asked to interview them during this special Philadelphia library appearance.

The cost is $14 general admission, $7 students.

Click here for more information.

Any questions you want me to ask Marcella and Victor? Please comment or email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Wings: Who has the hottest?

At a recent stop at Buffalo Wild Wings (the one in Bear, though here's hoping the new Stanton location can open as soon as it can), I had my standard fare of boneless wings and mozzarella sticks. Once again, I was not disappointed. Buffalo Wild Wings may not be the fanciest place. But who's looking for fancy when it comes to wings and other bar snacks?

As usual, I had the wings made in medium sauce, but ordered an extra with a cup of their hot sauce on the side. I do this because I like dipping the mozzarella sticks in buffalo sauce, too. It's a good combo, but the hot sauce there a BWW is pretty hot, and it's two levels from the top. Above hot are "Wild" and "Blazin'."

Whew. Who gets Blazin'? Anyone? If you do, how do you survive?

And who has the hottest wing sauce out there? I don't mean from stores, but among restaurant and takeout places. The hot at BWW had me sweating pretty well. I can't imagine people enjoying hotter sauces, but maybe this needs investigating. Any suggestions?

As far as mozzarella cheese with buffalo sauce, anyone else do this? I'll also accept people who support putting mustard on french fries.

New places

The day back from vacation is always about playing catch-up.

Not sure if you saw my story last week that Takumi Fine Japanese Restaurant is taking over the spot formerly occupied by Utage Authentic Japanese Cuisine.

The Oka family, owners of Utage Authentic Japanese Cuisine, closed the 22-year-old eatery in Independence Mall shopping center off U.S. 202 in Brandywine Hundred on Aug. 30.

But Hideyuki Okubo, who has worked as a sushi chef at Utage for more than 10 years, says he and his wife Jessie Okubo and Jessie's sister plan to open Takumi, another Japanese eatery, at the same site.

The chef says he expects to begin slicing sashimi again there by Sept. 15. (Call 658-8887 or 658-8881 for more information.)

Hideyuki Okubo, a graduate of the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka, Japan, has worked as a chef in five-star hotels in Tokyo and Kobe.

The Okubos are planning many interior updates, as well as adding a Pagoda terrace, but will keep the eatery opened during the renovations.

Independence Mall owner Roseanna Richards says that Wilmington-based Mitchell Associates will be working on the design.

"We are so excited about their plans to renovate. They are going to reinvest into the business," Richards says.

"We're going to make the restaurant very beautiful," says Jessie Okubo, adding that most of the same staff from Utage will remain at Takumi.

While the food at Utage has often received kudos, detractors haven't been nearly so kind about the interior.

According to the 2008 Zagat Philadelphia Restaurants Survey, the burgundy "bible" guidebook that also includes some New Castle County restaurants, customers have said Utage's setting was "bland enough to make the supermarket more fun."

Richards says the renovations at Takumi are just some of the current updates taking place at Independence Mall, which was built by her father. The Blue Ballroom, a new dance studio, was recently renovated, and plans are under way for a Malaysian restaurant and possibly an Italian wine bar.

Richards says the shrubs and signage at the shopping center are all new, and cobblestones were imported from Europe.

"I want this to become a boutique mall," she says.

Chihiro Oka, whose father Yuichiro opened Utage restaurant, Delaware's first sushi bar in 1986, said he had hoped to revamp and renovate Utage but couldn't come to an agreement on the lease.

Chihiro Oka said he hopes to find a new location for Utage in the next six months to a year.

IN OTHER NEWS:

Mile High Steak and Seafood is a new restaurant in the Cross Roads Shopping Center, just beyond the intersection of Baltimore Pike and U.S. 202 in Glen Mills, Pa.

Executive chef Don Sanders has designed menus at the restaurant (with a 100-seat dining and bar area) to reflect the season. He also has a selection of USDA prime and certified Black Angus steaks and seafood.

Sanders, of Wilmington, is a graduate of the Le Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, Md. He has most recently worked at the Kennett Square (Pa.) Golf and Country Club and Philadelphia's Pyramid Club. Executive sous chef Monte Davis of Havertown, Pa., has more than 20 years' experience in the culinary arts, most recently at the Philadelphia Country Club.

Visit www.milehigh steakandseafood.com or call (610) 361-0855 for reservations. Dinner is served from 5-10 p.m., Monday through Saturday.

Caution: Grossness ahead

We asked readers to share tales of what they ate on their summer vacation.
Steve Hopkins of Bear did one better. He told us - and showed us - what he slurped on his summer vacation:
"I drank snake wine on the Li River in China. It is their specialty drink."
Wow. Just wow. And I think I may throw up. Here are Steve's photo proofs of his, uh, braveness. (Does snake wine put hair on your chest??)

Now at the door: Cheese steaks

OK, so it's not a novelty when a place delivers cheese steaks. But Domino's Pizza is claiming they are the first national chain to do so.

Wait a second, you say? Domino's has cheese steaks now? Yes, they do, as a part of its new Baked Sandwiches line that also features chicken sandwiches, including chicken Parmesan, and Italian subs.

There's also the Philly Cheese Steak. Yes, I know, so many places insist on listing cheese steaks as "Philly Cheese Steak" on the menu. But, no big deal. At Domino's, their cheese steaks come with onions, green peppers, mushrooms, and use both American and provolone cheese.

I've tried this steak twice, once with only provolone cheese (as seen above) and one with only American cheese. The first steak was much better, and was delivered a little warmer than the second one. The toasted bread makes this steak one to recommend, and the fact that it's a manageable steak. That means it doesn't fall apart. This steak isn't chopped, which is my preference. While I'm all for value, I'm not one who likes way too much chopped steak piled into a roll, only to have it be a mess to eat.

The sandwiches cost $4.99. Adding a snack-sized bag of chips and a 20-ounce drink makes it $6.99. All Domino's outlets may not be carrying these sandwiches yet, so make sure before you order. Check out http://www.dominos.com/ to find locations near you.