Reader Mail

Happy Friday. A short week was just the ticket I needed.

A story is coming Wednesday about our hunt for some of the best crab cakes in and around Delaware. The quest will continue for at least a month - and then we'll share our findings. Stay tuned.

KENNETT SQUARE HAS A LOT MORE THAN MUSHROOMS

In today's Taste column, I finally grab a table at Sovana Bistro, near Kennett Square, Pa.

(What do you mean, finally? You've never been? )

I know. I know.

Colossal dining mistake, which has since been corrected. Verdict: It's worth a trip.

FIRST THE WINE, THEN THE WOMEN......

Ryan Cormier's 55 Hours cover story today on the jumbo Outlet Liquors in Rehoboth Beach for women is really interesting. According to Ryan, the 20,000 square foot store offers everything from a "$30,000 limestone women's bathroom to an entertainment lounge area with live music to flat-screen televisions tuned to the Food Network."

I dunno, I never shop at a liquor store and think "Oh, I wonder how the restroom is??"

I have a feeling it's going to get used as a bathing suit changing room more often than not this summer...

But, then again, this could be a marvelously brilliant idea - the 21st century version of the coffee shop.

Good luck, Outlet Liquors.

NEW PLACES TO CHOW DOWN

Just a quick note: Vincente's Italian restaurant on Kirkwood Highway (near the Kirkwood Highway Library and across from All Saint's Cemetery) has opened for business.

Word is that Big Fish Grill on the Wilmington Riverfront should be serving customers in about two weeks or so.

Now onto the mailbag. You ask. We answer. Every Friday. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

GOOD STORIES, BUT......

Last Friday, we offered our super-sized version of 55 Hours. It is online for your reading pleasure. Readers did call and write to say about a few places we missed.

In an article about pick-your-own places, a reader told us we should have mentioned Filasky's Produce, 1343 Bunker Hill Road, Middletown; 378-2889, which has u-pick strawberries.

Also, in an article about crabhouses, a reader says we missed The Alibi Inn, Sassafrass Road, Warwick, Md., (410) 755-6862‎. (It's near Cecilton, Md.)

LET'S GET CHEESY

QUESTION: Hi Patricia, I always enjoy your articles. I just wanted to mention after reading recently your pick of Janssens as a great place to select cheeses. [EDITOR'S NOTE: Here's the article about where to find a good slice - pizza, cheese, pie, etc.]

I agree they do a great job. Equally, I would suggest that the Country Butcher in Kennett Square, Pa., has a terrific selection, albeit a more rustic setting, and they encourage you to sample the cheese to see if you like it.

Thank you, all the best,

Rosella Porro

ANSWER: Rosella, you're right. Country Butcher is a good shopping destination. And if you're in Kennett, then you must also stop into Talula's Table. (Another great place to find cheese.)

MORE SCREAMS FOR ICE CREAM

QUESTION: A sad omission; there was no mention of the new (last year) Hopkins Dairy operation on the S.W. corner of the Georgetown-Lewes Road (Rt. 9), and Dairy Farm/Sweetbriar Roads; there are pictures of cones on the silo(s); they use their own milk and cream, and the result is no less than deadly. There are always persons waiting during the summer. [EDITOR'S NOTE: Reader is referring to an article about where to find the best ice cream.]

Another interesting mistake, but not yours...the ADC Sussex Atlas has Sweetbriar and Dairy Farm Roads transposed, each being on the wrong side of Rt. 9.

RFD

ANSWER: So noted. Thanks RFD.

First look: Kooma Asian Fusion Sushi Bar

EDITOR'S NOTE: This isn't a review, per se, just a first glance at a new eatery.

Dropped into the new Wilmington Riverfront restaurant Kooma Asian Fusion Sushi Bar, 543-6732, after work yesterday with two pals.

Very cool place - at the corner of Harlan Boulevard and Justison Street.

The address is 400 Justison St. (It's near the old Kahunaville, if that's any help. There were also huge signs - and balloons - outside of the building.)

High ceiling, big sweeping bar (actually there are two bars -one is for sushi). Very white overall color scheme. Looks like there is a place for a DJ to set up equipment in one of the dining rooms.

It seems much like a place you'd find in Philly. Not many people yet - servers and sushi chefs were mostly standing around with little to do during our visit - but then the restaurant just opened.

The doors and windows were flung open and it was actually almost a little too warm sitting at the bar. (Gotta love that Delaware humidity!) Just when I wishing for some AC action, a cool breeze kicked in.

We dove into the martini menu and agreed that the $10 "French Whore" was the way to go. (And a couple of guys at the bar couldn't get enough of three chicks talking about "French Whores," which - get your mind out of the gutter, chuckleheads - is a combination of Grey Goose, Chambord, pineapple juice and o.j.

Very tasty drink, though the dirty-brownish color - hence the name, I guess? - leaves a lot to be desired.
A much more pretty drink is the Smooth Criminal ($11) - see my crappy cellphone photo above- a blend of Herradura tequila, Cointreau, lime juice, orange juice and a splash of cranberry.

The Stoli Razzle ($9) - champagne, Stoli Razberi, drop of grenadine and sugar around the rim of the flute - is a girly-girl drink, but, if truth be told, I preferred the other cocktails.

JUST A PRICE-SAVING FYI: During happy hour, appetizers and beer are 40 percent off.

We skipped the sushi [this visit] - and shared the appetizer sampler ($22 normally, $13.20 during happy hour) a combination of chicken yakitori (skewers), edamame, tempura, negimaki (grilled sirlon steak wrapped around cream cheese and scallions), and three crab shumai. Chicken was a little overcooked, but the negimaki and shumai were very good. You get a huge bowl of edamame.

I also ordered the tuna tataki ($11 normally, $6.60 during happy hour) - tuna seared and sliced - served with a side of ponzu sauce which was perfectly fine, though nothing I'd brag about eating.

I'm interested in working my way through the menu during another trip - entrees range from $15 to bibimbab and tofu teriyaki to $37 for twin lobster-scallop hibachi dinners.

Nigiri is priced per piece - $3.25 for tuna, "special" rolls can go as high as $22 (that's the lobster tempura roll.)

Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Mon.-Sat. includes $12 sushi lunch - six pieces of sushi or sashimi and a choice of a California or tuna roll. The Kooma combo ($9) includes a choice of two rolls.

Gosselins revisited

I did catch the season premiere of "Jon & Kate Plus Eight" and found it to be downright painful TV.

While I'm a self-admitted reality show junkie - a habit I'm trying, unsuccessfully, to kick - the raw emotions of a marriage falling apart in front of a ratings-grabbing national audience was beyond sad.

And I still don't really get the appeal of this show. I was at a party once where some guy (!) was talking about this show with the kind of enthusiasm that some people show for football or baseball. Weird.

But what do I know? I love "The Real Housewives of New York."

Back in September 2008, I interviewed Kate Gosselin while she was on a press tour in New York.

At first she seemed guarded, but after a few minutes, she was funny and seemed very sincere and not at all snippy, though we were mostly talking about sandwiches, lunches, shopping and not about allegations that her husband was apparently stepping out on her with a 23-year-old third grade school teacher.

Here's the story - can you find any read-between-the-line clues as to what was really going on when cameras weren't rolling?

The queen of the brown-bag lunches
With eight kids, TV celeb Kate Gosselin packs plenty

By PATRICIA TALORICO
The News Journal

Kate Gosselin treasures her sleep.

You may already know that if you've watched the popular TLC TV series "Jon & Kate Plus Eight" which chronicles the life of the central Pennsylvania woman, her husband, Jon, and their energetic sets of multiples - 4-year-old sextuplets and 7-year-old twins.

When it comes to packing school lunches for eight kids - and that means going through a loaf of bread each day - Gosselin likes to get it out of the way the night before.

"I know the crazy morning," says the 33-year-old, whose day begins with getting together 56 pieces of clothing for the children, cooking 16 pancakes, cleaning 80 sticky fingers and tossing in five loads of laundry.

If she wasn't a pack-it-the-night-before mom, "I'd have to get up a half hour early. I'm not a morning person," says Gosselin by telephone last week from New York, where she is working with the Grain Foods Foundation to encourage moms to pack lunches for themselves and their families.

While she and Jon share parental duties, Kate is charge of the cooking and nutrition.

"I've always cooked for Jon and I. When the girls [7-year-old twins Cara and Mady] were little, it was very important for me. I want to know what I'm putting into them," she says of the rest of the brood which includes sextuplets Alexis, Aaden, Collin, Leah, Hannah and Joel.

Gosselin buys organic foods whenever she can and says she is lucky to live close to Lancaster County. "The Amish community is less than 10 minutes away, and I go to a wonderful produce grower."

The advantage of a large family: "You're never eating food that's not fresh," she jokes.
The disadvantage? A big grocery bill. Just don't ask Gosselin how much she spends each week on food.

"People always ask that, and I honestly don't know. I shop at so many different places, and we do a lot of bulk shopping. I try never to buy stuff that isn't on sale."

Despite the TV show and the attention it brings, the Gosselins are determined that their children have "a normal, happy childhood."

When she makes sandwiches, Gosselin likes to change the shape of the bread. Sometimes she'll even cut the bread into the shape of the first letter of each child's name. In school lunches, she also adds "a little love note" - each one individually written. "I try not be repetitive."

Her children are like any others, and they often go through finicky phases. "Mady went through a no-cheese, no-yogurt phase," she says.

Gosselin tries to give them choices at lunch time - "Cara and Mady will make special requests," she says - but when it comes to dinner, the mother of eight is clear that she is not a short-order cook. They eat what she has made for dinner or they don't eat at all.

"I don't give the kids an option."

The children's tastes change often, but one flavor the whole family enjoys is Gosselin's homemade hummus.

"I love it. That is one thing that goes over so well. It's funny, Collin's middle name is Thomas and he thinks when we say 'hummus' we're really saying Thomas. So he thinks it's named for him.

Now, we all call it Thomas," she says, chuckling.

Life at home is getting a little easier, though Gosselin admits "I'm not always patient. I try, and I'm having a lot of fun. It's very loud and it's moment by moment. But the kids are wanted, and I have so much fun with them."

The 4-year-olds are in pre-kindergarten this year, and the twins, who turn 8 in October, are in second grade.

"I feel old. I can't believe this has gone by so quickly," Gosselin says. "The other day Jon said, 'Mommy, you have second-graders now.'"

The perfect burger

Hey all - hope your holiday weekend was filled with good times and good food.

The barbecue season is in full swing and weekend dinners and parties included fresh mahi-mahi, barbecue and Mexican food - I need to get the recipe for a kicky pasta salad made with a sauce of roasted poblano chilies and cilantro - and surprisingly sweet (for this time of year) Sussex County corn. (Thanks Christine and Matt. Good times!)

Wow - the Greenwood Volunteer Fire Company barbecue chicken stand off U.S. 13 in Sussex County was crazy busy this weekend and a super long line on Sunday. People can't get enough of their slightly vinegary tasting chicken. It's worth a stop if you're ever in the area.

Also, I had to feed the need for the perfect burger after thumbing through "Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes" (Clarkson Potter, $25.95) cookbook.

I followed the grillmaster's suggestion for the "perfect burger" - he uses 80 percent lean, 20 percent fat ground chuck - this is really important, don't get 90 percent lean meat or the burger will be too dry - salt, pepper and canola oil. That's it.

According to Bobby: "Fat carries flavor and moisture. So if you want a juicy, flavorful burger, chuck is definitely the way to go."

I dig the fact that Flay is a purist when it comes to beef burgers. He makes his patties only with ground chuck and doesn't like to mix in any extra ingredients like onions, eggs or garlic. (That's meatloaf, he says.) He saves creativity for toppings.

Flay forms the meat into 3/4-inch burgers, about 6 ounces each, and then makes a deep depression in the center with his thumb. Then he seasons both sides of each burger with salt and pepper and brushes them with canola oil. Grill about 3 to 4 minutes per side - total of 6 minutes for rare, about 7 minutes for medium-rare and 8 minutes for medium.

(If you want to cook it longer, well, you're on your own. That's just burnt meat, in my opinion. If you're adding cheese, put it on during the last minute of cooking and close the grill cover.)

Guests agreed these were very tasty, very juicy burgers. (I served the burgers on toasted potato rolls, along with big slices of sweet onion, ketchup and mustard along with sides of pickles, baked beans and homemade cole slaw. Now that's some good eats.)

This is my new simple-yet-oh-so-perfect burger recipe for the summer. Thanks Bobby.

Enjoy the weekend

Second Helpings is taking a long, much needed, weekend break.

The only sweat we want to see is on the outside of a glass. See you Tuesday.

In the meantime, enjoy a cocktail recipe for the perfect margarita from my Seattle pal Kavita Varma-White - formerly of Wilmington and Fort Lauderdale- who was once a Dewey Beach beachhouse buddy. (Ah, who can forgot those wild-and-crazy nights dancing at the Waterfront, eating curbside pizza at Grotto and jamming at the Cork's jam session?)

(One tip from K: Before you start, she says it makes a HUGE difference to have a juicer for the limes.)

THE PERFECT MARGARITA

1.5 parts tequila (2 if you want it stronger) she prefers Sauza or Patron

1 part fresh lime juice

1 part Cointreau or Triple Sec

1 packet of Splenda

Put in shaker with a bit of ice.. Shake it up. Serve either up in a martini glass, or on the rocks in a small (7 to 10 ounce) tumbler glass. If you like salt, rub the glass rim with a lime and then twist in salt. Salud!

It's been a little crazy lately....

I haven't meant to be neglectful of the blog lately, just have been up to my eyeballs in assignments.

It's been a crazy, crazy few weeks and we've finally finished up our super-sized 55Hours section - 55 ways to do summer on a budget. Look for it on newsstands on Friday - stories should go online later today....

Friday also brings my Life section story on Emeril's Chop House at the new Sands Casino Resort Bethlehem, Pa.

(Here's the link to the story.)

It takes less than two hours to drive there (think about the same amount of time it takes to go from Wilmington to, maybe, Fenwick Island?) Well, if you don't get lost - like photographer Jennifer Corbett and I did on Tuesday. We were chatting in the car and missed the Bethlehem exit and even GPS wasn't sure where we were at one point.

Reasons to drive to Bethlehem: If you're looking for a new gambling outlet to play slots - casino opens on Friday - and if you're a huge Emeril fan and absolutely MUST eat in one of his restaurants. (Just don't expect to see him in the kitchen that often.) Prices aren't bad for a white tablecloth eatery - entrees about $24 to $42 (that's for a 22-ounce bone-in ribeye.)

We sampled both the herb goat cheese stuffed Amish chicken breast and the filet mignon at the press lunch. The chicken was moist and the filet was very good - nice char on the outside - though I found Emeril's homemade sweet and smoky Worcestershire sauce to be a little too much. (It has a slight throat burning after taste.) The strawberry rhubarb pie with Penn State Creamery vanilla bean ice cream was excellent.

When Jen and I were leaving, we saw a store in Bethlehem called Tallarico's Chocolates. I almost stopped in to chat - long lost relatives perhaps?

What else is going on?

- Looks like the new Kooma Sushi & Lounge Bar is open at the Wilmington Riverfront, 400 Justison St. Visit http://www.gokoomarestaurant.com/ I'm hoping to get a first look soon. I'll fill you in.

- I've been overwhelmed - overwhelmed! - by the amount of comments (135) and emails (100 plus) about where to find the best crab cakes.

The quest begins this weekend. I have a lot of miles to travel and cakes to eat. Stay tuned.

Wednesday food page round-up.....

Gentleman (and ladies) start your grills..... Memorial Day weekend is always the unofficial start of the BBQ and grill season.

Our own Gary Soulsman talks to World Champion Pitmaster Chris Lilly of Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q in Alabama about "Q."

Check out Chris's recipe for "white sauce" which sounds to me somewhat similar to the sauce the "chicken guys" at the Greenwood Fire Company in Sussex slap onto their own barbecue chicken.


I stopped into Annie's in Elsmere recently for one of their triple decker sandwiches (I got a turkey club) and saw a bunch of reading glasses at the front counter.

What's up with that? Then owner Wendy Scully told me about her unique customer service - she keeps several pairs on hand for people who forget their specs. I think that's very cool.

So Pulp Culture blogger Ryan Cormier goes to Capriotti's on Basin Road for a late lunch and runs into - Kumar (aka Kal Penn.) Now, that's pretty hilarious. No White Castles here, but every Delawarean worth their Blue Hen know that Caps is where it's happening. Kumar got a Bobbie. Are you surprised? Me neither. Also, Caps is getting ready to go Hollywood. (See second item.)

My lunch with Emeril

Just got back from lunch at the new Emeril's Chop House at the Sands Casino Resort in Bethlehem, Pa.

The big E was there - this is his first Northeast restaurant - and said he wanted to make sure that the menu was geared toward local products.

(He's not kidding. I flipped throught the wine list and found a 2006 Chaddsford Winery cabernet sauvignon for $45. Seriously.)

A story is coming Friday - same day that the casino and restaurant opens. Stay tuned.

Food D.O.G.s: Breakfast sandwich "Survivor"

By PETER BOTHUM

The island off U.S. 40 just before you hit Del. 896 is the perfect quick stop for motorists on their way to work or vacation via I-95 or routes south to the beach.

McDonald's and Dunkin' Donuts provide the grab-and-go eats and fuel-you-fast coffee and sweets on the mid-highway sliver in Glasgow. Need an oil change? Jiffy Lube is right there, too.

There's also a 24-7 Mart, which has the unfortunate disadvantage of facing east, which would fail to snag the morning traffic heading that way from Elkton and other parts of Maryland.

Still, the mart does everything it can to grab passing traffic, flashing a bundle of signs, one of which reads "Breakfast 2 for $3."

Wait. What exactly would I be getting "two" of for $3? Two pieces of sausage? Two slices of toast? Two eggs?

I had to find out. As I suspected (and prayed), the offering at the 24-7 Mart is an absolute steal: Two breakfast sandwiches for $3.

Your choices sit in a warming tray, wrapped neatly in foil, next to the register: Sandwiches boasting egg and cheese along with either sausage, bacon or ham on toast or a bagel.

How in the h-e-double-hockey sticks can this joint offer two breakfast sandwiches for almost the same price as Dunkin' Donuts charges for one?

"I lose money," said Mack Patel, who runs the register at the 24-7 Mart. "I have to. I have to do it if I want the customers to come in."

He's right. There's a Wawa to the west that motorists will hit a quarter mile before they arrive at the convenience store. Across the street is the high-priced (overpriced?) coffee-and-pastry offerings at Starbucks.

The mart's island mates, omnipresent brand names McDonald's and Dunkin' Donuts, hypnotize and suck in the eyes and brains that have been trained to follow and obey their commercials and slogans.

But deals are deals. In addition to the breakfast sandwich deal, the quaint little spot sells New England coffee at any size for 99 cents.

If you come for lunch, you can fill up on a 12-inch sub for a mere $4 made at the 24-7 Mart's deli, which also offers cheese steaks, sliced meats and other sandwiches.

Were the breakfast sandwiches the best I've ever had? Nah. But the sausage, egg and cheese on a bagel was comparable to Dunkin' Donuts or maybe even something you might scoop up at a quality street stand in New York. The bacon, egg and cheese on toast had a nice made-on-the-go-at-home feel to it.

But really, how can you argue with two for $3? With that kind of deal, we're thinking the 24-7 Mart is going to be a survivor on this fast-food island.

Where to find the best crab cakes?

A restaurateur once told me there was only one dish he could never, ever, take off or replace: The crab cake.

People are passionate about crab cakes. And you're sure to find this staple of Mid-Atlantic region cuisine on most menus.

But doesn't it seem like every restaurant crows that it has "the best crab cakes" around?

I want to know what you think.

I'm looking for suggestions of places to check out - in and around Delaware.

Tell me where to find meaty cakes packed with sweet crabmeat - not flat, mushy-tasting hockey pucks that pass for one of our region's favorite foods.

Comment below or email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Later this summer, we'll run a roundup of The Best Crab Cakes.

Get ready to pass the cocktail and tartar sauces.

Reader Mail: UPDATE

Lewes as a culinary destination? You betcha. From the Lewes Dairy to the (fairly new) Agave Tequila Bar & Mexican Grill, the sleepy Sussex County resort has much to offer.

Read it here.

Restaurant critic Eric Ruth is using his noodle - and sampling some too- in his Friday Taste column.


Capers & Lemons gourmet market opened today.
The market at 301 Little Falls Drive (in the Little Falls Park off Centerville Road) is open Mon-Sat: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; and noon to 6 p.m. Sunday. Call 256-0524 or visit http://www.capersandlemons.com/.

UPDATE: Looking for your dream job? Frank Bruni is putting down his fork after five years as The New York Times restaurant critic. Bruni is a cool cat. We had an email exchange a few years back after someone dissed him in an interview I was writing. I had to contact him for a comment and he was very gracious. Not all foodies were psyched about Bruni's reviews when he first started - and YOU try following in Ms. Ruth Reichl's footsteps - but he began to grow on me in recent years. The search is now on for a new paid eater. Hmmmm......

Now onto to the mailbag. Keep reading to see what inquiring minds want to know. Remember: You ask. We answer. Send your emails to me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

A GOOD RESTAURANT FOR A SHOWER

QUESTION: Hi Patricia! I would love to have your suggestions for a bridal shower. I am planning a shower for my sister, who will be getting married on New Year's Eve at the Hotel du Pont. I would like to keep the guest list between 40 and 50 women. I have contacted a few places and have received their menu suggestions. I love reading your blog and I always agree with you. I thought you would have some good ideas! Thank you for your help. Kim Boessman

ANSWER: A New Year's Eve wedding sounds like a ball. And at the Hotel du Pont. What a fun evening! Kim, I'm not sure what your price range will be - and how close the shower's date will be to the wedding. And do you want to stay in or near the city? But.....the new Pizza by Elizabeths is a very cute/girlie space that is sure to please. If the ladies like the idea of small plates and sangria, you certainly can't go wrong at Orillas Tapas. Deep Blue should also easily be able to accomodate you - and it's right across from the Hotel. Or Krazy Kat's in Montchanin is another option.

FIREBIRDS SHARES A RECIPE

QUESTION: Hello Patricia,

There was a request a few weeks ago from one of your readers for Firebirds tortilla slaw recipe. There was an article online saying they really wished we and another local restaurant would share our recipes. It was written by a staff member other than you, but I can't seem to find that article anywhere to find her name. I sent a post saying we'd be happy to share it, but have not heard back. Do you happen to know where I can email that recipe or would sending it to you be the best route? Thanks for your help.

Tyler Fray

Director of Marketing

Firebirds Wood Fired Grill

ANSWER: Thanks Tyler. The request ran in Nancy Coale Zippe's column and it appeared on Wednesday, along with the recipe.

THE CITY OF BROTHERLY LOVE IS A MEAT MARKET

QUESTION: Just a comment; Del Frisco's of Philadelphia has the best atmosphere for relaxation including music (contemporary jazz), aesthetics (European architecture as if in a coliseum or amphitheatre) and the food is good too.

Carolyn

ANSWER: Thanks for the tip, Carolyn. Philadelphia has certainly been seeing a steakhouse boom in recent years. I have heard many good comments about the new Butcher & Singer.

But not everyone is a Del Frisco fan. Here's a review from Philadelphia Inquirer critic Craig LaBan.

NEW HOME FOR THE BBC

QUESTION: Good afternoon! I just read your blog and was excited to read about the BBC Tavern and Grille opening in the summer. Do you know where it will be located? Any other information you can pass along would be great. Thank you. Steve.

ANSWER: Steve, I wrote a story on May 13 about David Dietz moving into the former Pizza by Elizabeths space for his BBC Tavern and Grille. Here's the link. I just talked to David today and he says the response about his restaurant comeback in Greenville has been amazing. The opening is scheduled for July. Stay tuned.

CALIFORNIA FRIEND WANTS GOOD EATS


QUESTION: An old friend, who formerly lived in Chadds Ford, Pa., is coming to town for one evening (he now lives in Marin County, Calif.) I want to take him someplace special for dinner and since he is staying in Chadds Ford, I thought of Brandywine Prime. He is quite a wonderful cook, and I know he loves crabcakes but I see that the crabcakes there are made with jumbo lump and claw crabmeat. What's with this, do you know? Claw meat?

I would take him to the Farmhouse, which he really liked when he lived here, but I was disappointed in their crabcakes a few months ago. (Realizing of course, that no place makes as good a crab cake as G and M in Baltimore!)

Any suggestions for a super meal? (Not just based on crabcakes, though). We eat out a lot, and you would think I could come up with a place! But I want it to be really special.

Thanks, J

ANSWER: According to Michael Majewski of Brandywine Prime, the crab cakes are made with claw meat because "it has a lot of flavor. That's why we use it." The crab cakes are 75 percent lump crabmeat and 25 percent claw meat.

What about Sovana Bistro, 696 Unionville Road (Rte. 926) in Kennett Square, Pa.; (610) 444-5600? Foodies are always raving about owner Nicholas Farrell's food - a French-Mediterranean combo - and his seasonal menus. It's a BYOB, but now they also have a wine list.

I've always like the Blue Pear Bistro, 275 Brintons Bridge Road (Old Wilmington Pike), (610) 399-9812. But make sure you call for reservation - both are very popular.

Food DOGs: Holding (food) court

By ANDRE L. SMITH

I checked out the Christiana Mall's new food court for lunch today, looking to catch a glimpse of the improvements and things to come.

The mall opened its new food court last week and, while the selection of restaurants is still small, the changes seem to be for the better. Here are some of the highlights and lowlights:

— It has been open for about a week and those who come to dine can choose from Suki Hana, Arby's, a new-and-improved Salad Works, and Auntie Anne's. Good choices to start. However, employees from Mrs. Fields and Cinnabon say that we will have to wait until August to enjoy their sweets in the mall.

— A Master Wok employee said they will be moving into the new food court within the next three weeks. Not sure about the other restaurants.

— One thing we have to look forward to is the arrival of Chick-fil-A. I'm predicting that it will take over as the most popular fast food joint in the mall.

— My favorite thing about the move is that a huge Barnes & Noble is being built near the main food court entrance. They couldn't have picked a better spot to put a bookstore.

— The eating area seems to be much more open and very well lit. The dining experience was quite relaxing.

REGULAR GUY FOOD RECOMMENDATION OF THE DAY: Suki Hana's #4 combo, which includes sesame chicken and rice. I prefer it with white rice, much to my doctor's dismay. The chicken is not spicy (if you're afraid of that) and the portion is large enough that you could save some for later.

Food pages round-up

Roger Morris visits a few area gardens that are tended by chefs.

Farm-to-fork eating is hotter than ever now and this is one way that chefs can make sure they're getting the freshest produce possible.

To the left is Seth Harvey at garden outside of Bistro on the Brandywine in Chadds Ford, Pa.

The photo to the right is Phil Pyle, an owner of the Fair Hill Inn, checking his grape vines, which are also part of the garden at the Maryland restaurant. Phil also has beehives. Seriously.

IN OTHER NEWS:

- Cool story today in The Los Angeles Times about green tea.

- One of my favorite dishes to eat in Tuscany in crespelle. It's an Italian crepe. A little trattoria near the Boboli Gardens in Florence served a memorable crespelle dish made with spinach, cheese and bechamel sauce.

Maybe it was the company I was with or just that I was so happy to be in Italy, but it was truly one of the best things I have ever eaten. I've looked for similar recipes and have found crespelle recipes in Mario Batali's "Molto Italiano: 327 Simple Italian Recipes to Cook at Home"
(Ecco 2005), and, naturally, Marcella Hazan's must-have cookbook (if you're a Italian food lover) "Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking" (Knopf, 1992.) Here's a story on crespelle today in The New York Times.

- The San Francisco Chronicle says that pastry chefs there are discovering macaroons. One chef even calls them the "new cupcake", which is a bit of a stretch. But hey, Delaware is sooooooo ahead of the curve. And I guess these San Fran chefs have never been to the Hotel du Pont where it's a tradition to get FREE (homemade!) macaroons at the end of the meal.

-A look at jarred pasta sauces is on the menu today at the Dallas Morning News.

- And The Washington Post is shaken - not stirred - about premade cocktails. (Just say no to a margarita in a box. Ick.)

Regular Gal Grub

Our Food DOGs are MIA today so here's a "Regular Gal Grub" review from yours truly:

By PATRICIA TALORICO

Lunch in a hurry - as in pick it up and eat at my desk (which is, I know, seriously depressing and something that I wish I didn't do often) - is frequently sushi from Tokyo Sushi (658-6586) at the Wilmington Riverfront Market.

(I'm such a frequent visitor that one of the owners knows me pretty well now.) Then I usually make a quick stop at the Riverfront Produce stall. Have you had their homemade pico de gallo? Good stuff.

Yesterday, I was back in the market and in a hurry. On my way to the usual sushi fix, I noticed a lunch special at Jonas Miller's Bake and Butcher Shop (655-2770) - a sandwich, chips and a drink for $6.85. That's a pretty good deal. I ordered the huge Amish chicken salad on rye bread, got a bag of Herr's and an iced tea. (Bleech. It was in a can.)

Chicken salad wasn't bad, though I tasted something sweet - relish, I believe - which kind of turned me off. I almost asked the counter guy before I ordered if the salad had relish (always an unnecessary ingredient in chicken salad, in my opinion), but then I got distracted by the produce department.

Anyway, live and learn. Next time, I order the lunch special, I think I'll ask for the roast beef and cheese.

What's new

I'm very, very late with the post today. It's been "one of those days" - reporting needed to be done, stories written, and, well, just other stuff.

I just now looked up and noticed it's way after 5 p.m. Gotta get going soon. There's a pair of running shoes and a track waiting for me. (Training for a 5K, my first!, is in full swing.)

OK, so I couldn't keep an interview today with Chris Lilly of the award-winning Big Bob Gibson's Bar-B-Q Team- but LUCKILY my esteemed colleague Gary Soulsman stepped in for me.

(Thanks, G. I owe you one.)

Gary's story on Q - and recipes from Chris's book (photo to the left) is coming next week, just in time for Memorial Day.

And look for Chris Lilly's appearance tomorrow on the Today Show.

In other news:

Had a terrific dinner recently at Harry's Seafood Grill on the Wilmington Riverfront. We sat outside and it was a perfectly beautiful night - cool, but not cold; no humidity. Is this really Delaware??

I was torn between oysters and tartare of big eye tuna and hamachi ponzu with wasabi and wakame - and finally went with the tartare. The landlubber with me looked at it with interest - especially the wonderfully crunchy chips served on the side- and was ready for a big bite until I mentioned tartare and hamachi were raw. (Well, kind of raw, the acid in ponzu "cooks" the fish.) Yeah, well, raw was a big n-o. I always forget there are people who don't like sashimi or ceviche. Just more for me.

My server suggested the pan-roasted escolar (about $23) and he was so spot-on. The fish's flesh, when cooked, is snowy-white and slightly sweet.

The landlubber - no big surprise - went with Harry's surf and turf - or braised prime short rib of beef and crabcake with California slaw.

Anne Hood, Harry's sommelier, suggested a great Viognier that paired very nicely with the escolar.

Oh Susanna

Another big name Center City Philadelphia restaurant is calling it quits.

Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine on Walnut Street plans to close. Foo, 65, tells the Philadelphia Inquirer's Michael Klein it's not the economy, she simply wants to slow down and enjoy her life. She plans to keep her Radnor, Pa., restaurant open.

This comes on the heels of Georges Perrier shuttering his Brasserie Perrier restaurant on Walnut Street earlier this year.

Foo has always been one of my favorite interviews. Way back when she published her first cookbook, Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine (Chapters, 1995) - and this is definitely a shelf-worthy cookbook for both the hot & sour soup recipe as well as the pork dumplings - I sat down at her restaurant for a very long lunch interview along with my buddy, photog Fred Comegys, who shot some amazing photos of the chef in the middle of the lunch service. Foo couldn't have been gracious. (If I can find the photos in our archives, I'll post them.)

Last year, I talked to her for an article in USA Today's Open Air magazine about "real Chinese" food. Again, another long conversation - and she graciously provided me with recipes. We ended it with Foo suggesting that we should go shop an area farmers' market together.

I think I'll make those shopping plans.

Chickening out

A stunt by KFC to promote its new grilled chicken on Oprah Winfrey's web site has apparently been a little too successful.

KFC franchises are being overrun by customers looking to cash in a free meal coupon that was posted on web site for 24 hours on Wednesday.

A colleague just told me that the KFC on U.S. 40 in Bear ran out of the chicken and was offering rain checks.

Here's some more info from Oprah's web site.

Reader Mail; UPDATE

Will we ever see the sun again? All this gloomy weather reminds me of the Ray Bradbury short story: "All Summer in a Day."

Anyone read it?

I'm having a mini freak-out - I'm serving 12 people dinner tonight at my house and still have a lot of cooking to do (and I'm here at work.) Good thing I bought a selection of cheeses from Janssen's Market - thanks for helping me, Mrs. Janssen - and a white chocolate mousse cake from Liz Marden's Gourmet Cakes.

I have finally, finally, finally, realized that I don't have to cook or make every single thing I serve. Anyway, these are my book club buddies who are very forgiving - and probably won't mind it I don't vacuum the entire house as long as I serve good wine - and the main focus will be on our book. I highly recommend "The Tender Bar" by J.R. Moehringer. It's about how a Long Island bar shapes a man's life - but it's about so much more.

IN OTHER NEWS:


- Friday's Taste column is all about casual eats - I stop into Qdoba Mexican Grill in downtown Wilmington and the Villa di Roma in Philadelphia's Italian Market. We also recap the posts from Food DOGs Peter Bothum and Jeff Gentry about the Soprano sandwich and Wawa flatbreads. I'll have a link as soon as the column is posted. UPDATE: Here's the link.

- According to its Facebook page, Capriotti's is coming to Los Angeles. Eighty stores are planned over the next 10 years, starting this year. Holy Bobbie, Batman!

- Remember, every Friday is Reader Mail. (Well, it's early today.) Got a dining question you want answered? Ask and ye shall receive. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Onto the mailbag:

UNION CITY GRILLE DESERVES A CLOSER LOOK

QUESTION: Dear Ms. Talorico,

I read your "Encore! Encore!" article this morning and wish you had devoted more of it to what Matthew Curtis is doing at Union City Grille, especially since, unlike the upcoming BBC Tavern, it is actually in operation.

As you know, Union City Grille has undergone several iterations since opening in terms of price point and focus of the menu (ownership aside), and it has always been okay, sometimes really good, sometimes just stable. I was there this past Sunday for the first time since Curtis took it over last September and, although it's hard to make a declaration based on one experience, what he is doing is really high quality. I asked him what he's trying to do with the restaurant, and he said he wants great ingredients, simply prepared -- "food the way it ought to be" were his words.

Our dinners were excellent; I had pan-roasted scallops with almond basmati rice and a red curry sauce, and it was pretty much perfect -- just delicious. My husband had the Sunday night special Italian three-course prix fixe menu -- he chose for his first course a winter Caparese salad (w/ roasted tomatoes) and as his entree a veal spezzato over fettucine that was just delicious. And I am pretty tough critic when it comes to food.

Curtis also is partnering with Moore [Brothers] on the wine list. While we really only studied the by-the-glass list, one thing we really appreciated is the selection of French and Italian wines, since there are some of us who still prefer the food friendliness and more moderate alcohol levels of those wines. (Of course, one would expect that from a partnership with Moore [Brothers], but still ...)

Since there was no mention in today's article of The News Journal having reviewed the restaurant since Curtis took it over, I thought I write and suggest that you do.

I believe Curtis has a good thing going.

Best regards,
Diane Shomper



ANSWER: Thanks for the email Diane. I can't share when a News Journal critic will stop in a restaurant for a review, but I can say that Union City Grille in on the radar.

MEZZA LUNA OR VILLA DI ROMA?

QUESTION: Pat - I'm craving good Italian. I've been to Villa Di Roma [in Philadelphia] many times but have been considering going to Mezza Luna on Eighth Street in Philly. Correct me if I'm wrong, since I've never been to Mezza Luna, but my understanding is that they are both "spaghetti with red gravy" type places. Which one, in your opinion, is better?

ANSWER: Both are Italian - but very different Italian restaurants. Villa di Roma is more red gravy than Mezza Luna, which is Roman style, and a little more pricey. I do like Mezza Luna and have been there several times. Here's what I had to say a while back: http://www.delawareonline.com/blogs/secondhelpings/2007/08/king-tut-and-egyptian-cuisine.html

I also think you can bring your wine there. But call to check. 215-627-4705.

I like Villa di Roma (my NY friends LOVE it) and had a great time, but, if truth be told, I'd pick Mezza Luna over Villa.

CAN YOU CATCH SWINE FLU FROM FOOD?

QUESTION: Patricia, Can the swine flu be passed on through food prep? And should we be concerned with fruits and veggies or any other food coming from Mexico?

Thank you
Chuck

ANSWER: According to the Centers for Disease Control: No.

H1N1 viruses are not spread by food. But here's a link to the CDC site that should answer all questions.

KOOMA COMING SOON

QUESTION: Hello. Anybody know any updates about Kooma in Delaware. Is it open soon?
Thanks!

Cindy

ANSWER: Advertisements say it's coming soon. Here's some info from The News Journal archives ....BUT I don't have an opening date yet. I'll post it as soon as I do.

Restaurant owners Scott Kim and John Jang have a 10-year lease to take 5,200 square feet in the Justison Landing project being developed by Buccini/Pollin Group Inc. of Wilmington.

Kooma will be located in the heart of a 10-building complex in the Town Center, according to Kevin H. Grubb, residential development manager with Buccini/Pollin.

It will be housed in a building,, closest to the former Kahunaville nightclub, Grubb said.

The restaurant will have sushi and martini bars, as well as private rooms. There's a Kooma in West Chester. It's located on West Gay Street and was given the best new restaurant award for 2004 by Main Line Today magazine, according to the West Chester Business Improvement District.

There is a third Kooma in Columbus, Ohio.

Beard Award tidbits

Delaware native Tom Douglas didn't win the Outstanding Restaurateur of the Year medal at this year's James Beard Foundation Awards, but the Seattle culinary superstar did give a red carpet interview. Here it is.

Stanley "Big Night" Tucci was trooper and came to MC the event even though his wife died five days earlier.

Jose Garces (Amada, Tinto, Distrito, Chifa) won Best Mid-Atlantic Chef, but the Philly chef/restaurateur wasn't there to accept the award. His brother picked it up for him.

A friend who attended the Lincoln Center gala said everyone complained that the Awards program was way tooooo long! She added that EVERYONE was sending tweets. And, the New York Times posted winners before the ceremony was over.

Here's something kind of interesting: At the Chef's Night Out party Sunday at Vermilion restaurant before the Monday gala, the restaurant was serving potato-chip rimmed cocktails. (Hmmmm, I dunnno about this. Floaters in the drinks? )

According to the James Beard blog, one of the highlights of the Awards reception was the vast assortment of festive cocktails. Among their favorites was a delish-sounding blackberry and whiskey concoction from Patricia Richards of the Wynn Las Vegas.

Here's the recipe for a Sinatra Smash:

4 fresh blackberries

1 1/2 ounces fresh sweet and sour mix

1/4 ounce Sonoma Vanilla-infused simple syrup

1/4 ounce Briotett creme de cassis

1 1/2 ounces Gentleman Jack Tennessee Whiskey

Muddle the blackberries with the sweet and sour. Add simple syrup, creme de cassis, and whiskey. Shake with ice until chilled, strain over cracked ice in an old-fashioned glass, and serve garnished with a mint sprig.

Second Acts

Does absense make the heart grown fonder?

Apparently it does in the restaurant industry.

David M. Dietz, owner of the popular Brandywine Brewing Co. in Greenville, is making a return to the business after stepping away from his brewpub nearly five year ago. That's David (pink and white shirt) in the photo to the right, along with executive chef Mark Doto, who plan to open the BBC Tavern & Grill later this summer.

And Matthew Curtis of Union City Grille in Wilmington came back to the stove after leaving three years ago to become an investments advisior.

The fast-paced, long hours (and long nights) of the industry can become an addiction that's hard to kick.

Here's my story today.

Food D.O.G.s: This Soprano is a stand-up guy

A few weeks ago, I had a sit-down with a Soprano.
Since it was the Soprano sandwich at Klondike Kate's (158 E. Main St., Newark), and not a chubby bald guy named Tony, I came out of this meeting unscathed.
In fact, I emerged satiated.
But let's first get down to the particulars. Without knowing anything about the Soprano ($9.95), one might assume that this sucker was some kind of fattening, gluttonous, overloaded slob of a sandwich that Tony might eat after a night of booze, illicit party favors and the company of strippers at the Bada Bing.
But to continue the parallel - I'm trying! - between food and the wise guys on "The Sopranos," the sandwich is more Bobby Baccalieri than it is Paulie Walnuts.
In other words, you'll get the gunshaft-to-the-back-of-the-head meats - tavern ham, salami, cappicola - and the one-two fat punch to the gut of focaccia bread and drizzles of oil and balsamic vinegar.
But this sandwich is sensitive, like the miniature-train-loving, Teddy bear-like Bobby. The meat portions - which are topped with provolone cheese - aren't enormous, and the health hazards seem to be negated by the juicy hunks of tomatoes wedged between the bread.
There were some dry bites where it was just meat and cheese and veggies, but the sandwich truly got "made" when the main ingredients mixed with the oil and balsamic vinegar.
The Soprano sandwich might not be cause for a meeting with the New York and New Jersey families, but it's definitely worth a crew pow-wow at Satriale's Pork Store.

By Peter Bothum

Catching up....

By PATRICIA TALORICO

Happy rainy Monday! Hope the weekend treated you well.

I think I, maybe, cooked at home one night last week. Stopped into a different restaurant almost every night (and sometimes for lunch too.) Let's just say I'm on the soup/salad/sushi detox diet this week.

From what I could tell - and from dispatches from staffers - City Restaurant Week was a success. What did you think?

I was out of my office part of the day Friday so, sorry, there was no Reader Mail. But I will run letters this week. Please keep your dining/food questions coming to me at: ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

AND NOW A BIG ROUND OF APPLAUSE FOR...

Delaware native Rebekah Denn. She took a home a James Beard journalism award last night for her article that appeared in (the recently shuttered) Seattle Post-Intelligencer "High on the Hairy Hogs: Super-Succulent Imports are Everything U.S. Pork Isn't."

Woo-hoo Rebekah! (She and her mom went to ceremony last night that was hosted by Food Network's Ted Allen.)

Way to represent the First State. Here's Rebekah's account on her blog: Eat All About It.

Tonight, the Beard gala takes place at the Lincoln Center. I'm sorry I have to skip the festivities - which are ALWAYS a big scene of culinary stars. (You see everyone from Jacques Pepin to Jamie Oliver munching on hors d'oeuvres and guzzling champagne.) And, darn! Stanley "Big Night" Tucci is one of the MCs. Now, I'm seriously bummed. (Note to C: I'm very glad you could use my ticket. Have fun and I want a full report!)

Our local boy who made very very good Tom Douglas (St. Mark's grad turned Seattle culinary superstar) is up for Restaurateur of the Year tonight. Go Tom. Go Tom. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!!

IN OTHER NEWS.....

Have you been to Bistro on the Brandywine lately? I enjoy this comfy cafe at U.S. 1 and 100, Chadds Ford, Pa., especially the (head still on) shrimp and moules frites.

Met friends from New York on Friday at Villa di Roma (936 S. Ninth St.) in Philadelphia's Italian Market. I introduced them to it a few years ago - they wanted an "old school Italian red gravy" place - and I don't think you can do much better than this very casual South Philly gem. I like it even better than Ralph's.

So when they're in town - as they were for this weekend's Phillies/Met match-up - they want the Villa. We had such a great evening of conversation and food - from the fried asparagus to the tuna and roasted peppers to the spaghetti with oil, garlic and anchovies to the whopping big veal dishes and the spinach sauteed in olive oil with lemon - and our server Anne Marie made it even more entertaining. When she found out one of guys never ate cannoli before - and, seriously, it shocked me too! - she ran to the kitchen and came back with a plate. (Villa gets the pastry from the nearby Isgro's, one of my favorite bakeries.)

If you go to Villa di Roma - bring cash, they don't take credit cards and ask for Anne Marie. She is a 5-foot-tall fireball and a floor show all rolled into one.

Since Cinco de Mayo is tomorrow, I think it's only appropriate to talk about the margaritas at Agave in Lewes , which I sampled Saturday night. This is everything that a good cocktail should be. No stinking syrupy mix. They use hand squeezed lime juice, top shelf tequila, salt on the rim and serve it ON THE ROCKS. (If I want a frozen drink, I'll order a Slurpee.)

This tiny slip of eatery on Second Street has no more than, maybe? 10 tables. We finally lucked out in snagging a table, something I haven't been able to do in two previous visits. Fish tacos and burritos are very good.

We were having so much fun - and enjoying those margaritas - we forgot to watch the Kentucky Derby.