Friday, June 29, 2007
Top Chef reality check
Life after "Top Chef" doesn't automatically mean a great restaurant gig. A story in The New York Observer says Season 1's Big Flavor Dave Martin - "I'm not your bitch, bitch" - and Season 2's Hunk-a-burnin' Love Sam Talbot are still looking for dream kitchen jobs.
Reader mail
QUESTION: Hi Patricia. I wanted to see if you knew what happened to a few restaurants that used to be around: Air Transport Command in New Castle; Saints and Sinners in Bear (I think); and the Front Porch had a fire at one point. Thanks! Stephanie
ANSWER: Air Transport Command restaurant, a part of the New Castle County landscape for more than 20 years, closed its doors on March 29, 2006, according to a handwritten sign on the door.
When the aviation-themed eatery near the New Castle Airport on U.S. 13 opened in 1984, themed restaurants were big business. The restaurant was named for the military's Air Transport Command, which had a support group at the former New Castle Air Base. Because some of the first women aviators to fly transport planes flew out of New Castle, the restaurant was dedicated to them. Flying heroes of World War II were commemorated at the restaurant where customers could pick up a set of headphones and listen to the ground-to-air instructions at the nearby control tower. Airplane parts were mounted on walls, jeeps and cannons were in the front and a taped history of the war played in restrooms. The eatery is owned by Specialty Restaurants Corp. of Long Beach, Calif., which operates several aviation eateries with both World War I and World War II motifs. Future plans for the site are unknown.
- Not sure what happened to Saints & Sinners at Summit North Marina (off Red Lion Road/Del. 71). But maybe you can get an idea of what the restaurant was like from Eric Ruth’s Nov. 2006 review of the eatery where he gave it a 1/2 star rating (poor to fair.) Ruth found “a distinct shortage of "authentic" New Orleans attitude. His take: "Only a worthwhile destination when diners steer clear of the poorly executed New Orleans-style dishes and stick with such traditional fare as fried shrimp and steak. The gorgeous canal-side setting makes up for the half-hearted attempt at Bourbon Street ambience, though any hope of relaxation is unsettled by over-eager rock bands.”
- An early morning blaze in Dec. 2003 destroyed the Front Porch, a popular Penny Hill-area bar and restaurant. “It looked like something out of a horror movie,” one witness told The News Journal after the fire.
Thursday, June 28, 2007
Express doesn't always mean fast
A friend and I stopped at Kabab Express, 3621 Kirkwood Highway; 995-2233. It's inside Spice World, an Indian grocer, across from Panera Bread. We got the boti kabab ($6.49 for chicken; $7.49 for lamb). Calling this place an "express" is about as accurate as calling Paris Hilton a religion scholar. (C'mon now: How did Larry King keep a straight face when the heirhead claimed that she read the bible in jail?)
Only two people were in the kitchen and the guy behind the counter told us "Go sit down" while we waited for our meal. It wasn't a super long wait, but it certainly wasn't fast. The chunks of chicken and lamb weren't served on skewers - so much for kebabs. And the accompanying onions and green pepper were raw. (I was expecting them to be grilled.) But I enjoyed the spicy lamb (chicken was good, but a tad dry), the homemade coriander chutney and the hot and freshly made naan is worth a stop back. Bottom line: I'd go here again. Just not when I'm in a hurry.
Only two people were in the kitchen and the guy behind the counter told us "Go sit down" while we waited for our meal. It wasn't a super long wait, but it certainly wasn't fast. The chunks of chicken and lamb weren't served on skewers - so much for kebabs. And the accompanying onions and green pepper were raw. (I was expecting them to be grilled.) But I enjoyed the spicy lamb (chicken was good, but a tad dry), the homemade coriander chutney and the hot and freshly made naan is worth a stop back. Bottom line: I'd go here again. Just not when I'm in a hurry.
"Top Chef" recap
"We're in serious need of wow," said Queer Eye Ted after a parade of bland re-worked comfort food crossed the judge's table on last night's episode of "Top Chef."
Yep, that kind of summed up this episode. No one is really standing out for me so far this season.
- Let's start with guest judge Alfred Portale. The King of Tall Food is short. Who knew? I like Portale's Gotham Bar & Grill in New York. Last time I was there, we sat at the bar next to some woman who is a regular on "Law & Order."
Yep, that kind of summed up this episode. No one is really standing out for me so far this season.
- Let's start with guest judge Alfred Portale. The King of Tall Food is short. Who knew? I like Portale's Gotham Bar & Grill in New York. Last time I was there, we sat at the bar next to some woman who is a regular on "Law & Order."
- Portale has a Philly connection. He used to be the consulting chef at the Striped Bass.
- But isn't it kind of cheesy that guest judges give their cookbooks out as prizes? Please. Check those egos at the door.
- Loved the look on Hung's face when Portale criticized his too-big crouton. (Get your mind out of the gutter. It's not a euphemism, he really was talking about a crouton!)
- I hate tuna noodle casserole and C.J.'s "big green blob version" hasn't changed my mind. Wonder why he didn't use seared tuna instead of that overcooked or canned version?
- Howie is the comeback kid. His version of "pork chops and applesauce" - OK, everyone channel Peter Brady - looked really good.
- I hate tuna noodle casserole and C.J.'s "big green blob version" hasn't changed my mind. Wonder why he didn't use seared tuna instead of that overcooked or canned version?
- Howie is the comeback kid. His version of "pork chops and applesauce" - OK, everyone channel Peter Brady - looked really good.
- Brian gets immunity and then serves lobster, a dish high in cholesterol. This after the challenge was about cutting out cholesterol. His response: "A little cholesterol" is OK. Isn't that like telling someone with a peanut allergy that a dab of peanut butter won't kill you? Just saying.
- Glad Micah was 86-ed, especially after the xenophobic remark about "Americans like their ketchup." Oh yeah, and we're all hamburgers eaters who eat apple pie every day too.
- Why didn't the producers show Portale saying "yuck" after eating Micah's meatloaf? Now, that's must see TV.
- Kudos to Dale for making instant mashers taste good. Now, if he just wore long pants and did something with his hair....
- Underdone lentils don't add texture, Lia, they just taste like underdone lentils.
- Kudos to Dale for making instant mashers taste good. Now, if he just wore long pants and did something with his hair....
- Underdone lentils don't add texture, Lia, they just taste like underdone lentils.
Wednesday, June 27, 2007
Where restaurants go wrong ...
If you ask me, the biggest problem with Delaware restaurants today is lack of consistency -- one night, service and food can be fine, only to turn sour on the next visit. This presents an especially prickly problem for food critics, especially when diners visit a restaurant based on our recommendations, only to be disappointed because the chef has been replaced, the staffing levels are short, or the place is mobbed (sometimes because of the review itself).
A new survey makes an interesting observation on the ways restaurants go wrong, discovering that diners' main beef is with service, specifically rude wait-people. The “Ouch Point” study by Opinion Research Corporation found that a quarter of respondents had problems with rude service, followed closely by frustration with hosts and maître d’s who underestimate the waiting time for a table (20 percent). On a positive note, relatively few of those polled (12 percent) had problems with "ill-prepared" food; 10 percent said "cold food" is their greatest dining-out dissatisfaction.
Of course, it also depends on who is being dissatisfied. Diners in the 18-24 year old age bracket were more likely (55 percent) to perceive rude wait staff as a problem, compared with 32 percent of respondents over age 65. Better-off diners were more likely to have problems with rudeness, and also more likely to confront hosts who underestimate waiting times.
A new survey makes an interesting observation on the ways restaurants go wrong, discovering that diners' main beef is with service, specifically rude wait-people. The “Ouch Point” study by Opinion Research Corporation found that a quarter of respondents had problems with rude service, followed closely by frustration with hosts and maître d’s who underestimate the waiting time for a table (20 percent). On a positive note, relatively few of those polled (12 percent) had problems with "ill-prepared" food; 10 percent said "cold food" is their greatest dining-out dissatisfaction.
Of course, it also depends on who is being dissatisfied. Diners in the 18-24 year old age bracket were more likely (55 percent) to perceive rude wait staff as a problem, compared with 32 percent of respondents over age 65. Better-off diners were more likely to have problems with rudeness, and also more likely to confront hosts who underestimate waiting times.
Softshell success
A News Journal reader asked where to find good softshell crabs. We recommended Feby's Fishery. Here was the response today:
Patricia,
Thanks for the recommendation. We went last night and the softshells were great! - Mitch.
Woo-hoo! Thanks, Mitch. We aim to please.
Patricia,
Thanks for the recommendation. We went last night and the softshells were great! - Mitch.
Woo-hoo! Thanks, Mitch. We aim to please.
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
Reader mail
Finally got some answers on these queries from last week. Got a dining question? You ask, we answer.QUESTION: Hi. It's that time of year, again, and I was wondering where to go for soft shelled crabs within a half hour drive of Wilmington. Atmosphere is not an issue, just soft shells correctly prepared with not too much oil or breading. Thanks.
ANSWER: Try Feby's Fishery, 3701 Lancaster Pike(Del. Route 48), Wilmington; 998-9501. I called the restaurant and the person I spoke with said Feby's just got a shipment of soft-shells in. (There's a seafood market attached to the restaurant.) Feby's usually deep-fries or sautes softshells - but the kitchen will prepare the dish anyway you'd like.
QUESTION: Hi, Patricia! I am fairly new to the area and also fairly new to your newspapers, but I really enjoyed the question/answer samplings in the paper today. It inspired me to write to you, as I've been frustrating myself trying to find a great romantic restaurant to take my husband to for his birthday on June 30th. We're partial to steaks and Italian food for nice evenings out (we're both rather picky eaters in our own way and these have been our compromises. I don't eat seafood at all, so that's out!). We've been to Moro several times and LOVED it. I'm hoping to zero in on the Newark or Wilmington areas as we have to drop off/pick up our son at a party and only have a four hour time span with which to eat. Looking forward to
hearing your suggestions. Thanks! Elizabeth, Landenberg, Pa.
ANSWER: Hi Elizabeth. Normally, I'd hand this question over to Eric Ruth, our fine-dining critic. But he's out of the office. (Is everyone but me on vacation?) Not sure of your price point. But here are few suggestions. OK, when it comes to steaks in the Wilmington area, there's always Walter's Steakhouse on Union Street in the Little Italy neighborhood. It's an old-fashioned style steakhouse, some may say too old-fashioned, but definitely an old school steak joint. Sullivan's Restaurant is a chain eatery on Concord Pike, but some beef lovers swear by it. When it comes to Italian, Eric Ruth recently reviewed the new Pomodoro Italian restaurant on Union Street (across from Walter's.) Some people love the tiny and quirky Pastabilities restaurant (on Lincoln Street in Little Italy,) while others aren't fans of the small space. (You walk through the kitchen where owner Luigi Vitrone is cooking.) If you like Moro, you'll probably also like Restaurant 821 on Market Street in downtown Wilmington.
Dining out pet peeves
News Journal reader Joan Kovach gave me a call the other day.
The Pike Creek resident wanted to share one of her biggest dining-out pet peeves: Being addressed by the server as "you guys."
Kovach says she and her friend John frequently dine out. It doesn't seem to matter if they're at a fine-dining establishment or a casual eatery. The server almost always says "How are you guys?"
"We usually look at each other and smirk," Kovach says.
"Why can't they just say 'How are you this evening?'"
Good question. According to the Urban Dictionary, calling a group "you guys" may be proof of America's sexist bias. Or, more likely, it's an attempt to be friendly and casual.
It doesn't bother me so much - I know I've used "you guys" before. I much prefer it then getting "madam'ed" or when a pushy server does the hard sell on a pricey wine or brings entrees when I'm still eating an appetizer.
What are your dining out pet peeves?
The Pike Creek resident wanted to share one of her biggest dining-out pet peeves: Being addressed by the server as "you guys."
Kovach says she and her friend John frequently dine out. It doesn't seem to matter if they're at a fine-dining establishment or a casual eatery. The server almost always says "How are you guys?"
"We usually look at each other and smirk," Kovach says.
"Why can't they just say 'How are you this evening?'"
Good question. According to the Urban Dictionary, calling a group "you guys" may be proof of America's sexist bias. Or, more likely, it's an attempt to be friendly and casual.
It doesn't bother me so much - I know I've used "you guys" before. I much prefer it then getting "madam'ed" or when a pushy server does the hard sell on a pricey wine or brings entrees when I'm still eating an appetizer.
What are your dining out pet peeves?
Monday, June 25, 2007
Barbecue without the fire
Can you call barbecue barbecue if you don't use a grill?
I dunno, but I've got to share this easy, oven-baked New Orleans style peel and eat barbecue shrimp recipe that my pal Stephanie once made. (It was so outrageously delicious, she gave me the recipe. I think she got it from Southern Living magazine.) I brought it to a dinner party Saturday night and it was a big hit. I tweaked it just a bit. Pass crusty French bread and dunk it in the sauce. It's damn good!
New Orleans style barbecue shrimp
4 pounds unpeeled, large fresh raw shrimp (I only used 3 pounds but we had other dishes)
1 stick (1/2 cup) butter
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup Heinz 57 sauce
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
2 lemons, sliced
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons Creole seasoning (I didn't have any in my spice cabinet so I used a mix of ground cumin, chile powder and smoked paprika)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper (original recipe calls for 1 teaspoon, but it seemed like too much to me and 1/2 teaspoon was fine for our tastebuds)
1/2 teaspoon hot sauce
French bread
Put shrimp in a large, plastic, freezer style bag with a zip closing. Set aside.
Combine butter and all ingredients - except French bread - in a saucepan over low heat, stirring until butter melts. Let cool slightly. Pour mixture into the bag with the shrimp. Zip seal bag closed. Place the bag in a bowl in the refrigerator. Chill 2 hours, turning bag every 30 minutes.
Bake, uncovered, at 400° for 20 minutes in a large pan; turning once with a spatula after 10 minutes. Serve with crusty slices of bread. Makes 6 to 8 servings
I dunno, but I've got to share this easy, oven-baked New Orleans style peel and eat barbecue shrimp recipe that my pal Stephanie once made. (It was so outrageously delicious, she gave me the recipe. I think she got it from Southern Living magazine.) I brought it to a dinner party Saturday night and it was a big hit. I tweaked it just a bit. Pass crusty French bread and dunk it in the sauce. It's damn good!
New Orleans style barbecue shrimp
4 pounds unpeeled, large fresh raw shrimp (I only used 3 pounds but we had other dishes)
1 stick (1/2 cup) butter
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup Heinz 57 sauce
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
2 lemons, sliced
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons Creole seasoning (I didn't have any in my spice cabinet so I used a mix of ground cumin, chile powder and smoked paprika)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper (original recipe calls for 1 teaspoon, but it seemed like too much to me and 1/2 teaspoon was fine for our tastebuds)
1/2 teaspoon hot sauce
French bread
Put shrimp in a large, plastic, freezer style bag with a zip closing. Set aside.
Combine butter and all ingredients - except French bread - in a saucepan over low heat, stirring until butter melts. Let cool slightly. Pour mixture into the bag with the shrimp. Zip seal bag closed. Place the bag in a bowl in the refrigerator. Chill 2 hours, turning bag every 30 minutes.
Bake, uncovered, at 400° for 20 minutes in a large pan; turning once with a spatula after 10 minutes. Serve with crusty slices of bread. Makes 6 to 8 servings
Reader mail
Happy, rainy Monday.
Still working on some reader mail from last week. In the meantime, in response to my query about fajita stand on Pa. Route 41, a reader said:
There is a stand on route 41 in Toughkennamon - 41 and Newark road. I have never been there but there is always a line.
OK, I'm checking it out this weekend.
And here's a letter from a happy diner (John, I have been to Cafe Palermo and wrote about it in a Dish column. I recall the food was much better (very good, in fact) than the decor; it looks like a pizzeria from the outside and the dining room seemed in the middle of a remodeling during my visits, but that was about a year ago.)
Dear Patricia,
If you haven't been to Cafe Palermo on Miller Road 3 shops down from Home Depot...GO!!!!
I had dinner there tonight and it was one of if not the most delicious meals I've had since I was in Tuscany last Thanksgiving. It's owned by Maria(forgot her last name,sorry) formerly of Cafe Riviera (Concord Mall) and is easily as good if not significantly better. Their pizza is better than Riviera and their dinners are better than their pizza! I went in intending to get a chicken cheesesteak w/the works but I got peering at the specials board and decided I had to try the Taste of Italy. Turn on your imagination now... shrimp, fettucini, rainbow tortellini, gnocchi(I grew up on these, rest in peace Grandmom), portobella ravioli, lobster ravioli, and ricotta pesto ravioli in a garlic parmesan almost Alfredo sauce...addictively good. Brava Maria!!! Speaking of addictively good, their garlic parmesan breadsticks are heaven! Baked with olive oil that tastes like it was just pressed. I dared to have dessert (I rarely have sweets after a wonderful dinner but tonig ht I couldn't say no). Cheesecake, homemade cannolis, mmm but I had to try the Tira Misu. Delicately spongy, subtlely sweet, drippingly delicious. Easily as good as I had in Tuscany. Double expresso with lemon. Happy belly, happier taste buds, sleepytime (you know how that goes!)! $27 on Mastercard. Most prices are under $17 for dinner and $10 for lunch. If you haven't been, GO! If you have, GO AGAIN!!! Tell Eric Ruth, tell everyone! Plus the atmosphere and decor is like an intimate italian villa. I hope to see you there. Ciao!
John Neal
Still working on some reader mail from last week. In the meantime, in response to my query about fajita stand on Pa. Route 41, a reader said:
There is a stand on route 41 in Toughkennamon - 41 and Newark road. I have never been there but there is always a line.
OK, I'm checking it out this weekend.
And here's a letter from a happy diner (John, I have been to Cafe Palermo and wrote about it in a Dish column. I recall the food was much better (very good, in fact) than the decor; it looks like a pizzeria from the outside and the dining room seemed in the middle of a remodeling during my visits, but that was about a year ago.)
Dear Patricia,
If you haven't been to Cafe Palermo on Miller Road 3 shops down from Home Depot...GO!!!!
I had dinner there tonight and it was one of if not the most delicious meals I've had since I was in Tuscany last Thanksgiving. It's owned by Maria(forgot her last name,sorry) formerly of Cafe Riviera (Concord Mall) and is easily as good if not significantly better. Their pizza is better than Riviera and their dinners are better than their pizza! I went in intending to get a chicken cheesesteak w/the works but I got peering at the specials board and decided I had to try the Taste of Italy. Turn on your imagination now... shrimp, fettucini, rainbow tortellini, gnocchi(I grew up on these, rest in peace Grandmom), portobella ravioli, lobster ravioli, and ricotta pesto ravioli in a garlic parmesan almost Alfredo sauce...addictively good. Brava Maria!!! Speaking of addictively good, their garlic parmesan breadsticks are heaven! Baked with olive oil that tastes like it was just pressed. I dared to have dessert (I rarely have sweets after a wonderful dinner but tonig ht I couldn't say no). Cheesecake, homemade cannolis, mmm but I had to try the Tira Misu. Delicately spongy, subtlely sweet, drippingly delicious. Easily as good as I had in Tuscany. Double expresso with lemon. Happy belly, happier taste buds, sleepytime (you know how that goes!)! $27 on Mastercard. Most prices are under $17 for dinner and $10 for lunch. If you haven't been, GO! If you have, GO AGAIN!!! Tell Eric Ruth, tell everyone! Plus the atmosphere and decor is like an intimate italian villa. I hope to see you there. Ciao!
John Neal
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