By ERIC RUTH
In a city never renowned for its hipness, fate seems to have bestowed a cool slickness on just one place -- Harry's Seafood Grill. Weeknights, weekends,summer and winter, this is the one place with the cosmopolitan buzz young professionals yearn for, a place where modern-edged food is lubricated nicely by chilly cocktails
An event like restaurant week isn't needed to spread the word about this Riverfront gem; the word has already been heard. Still, Harry's $35 menu offers good reason to find new appreciation for the kitchen's deft touch with bright flavors, especially with the Hawaiian "poke" (pronounced "po-keh") fish appetizer, left cool and raw and dressed with sesame, ginger and green onions.
Those sensibilities were somehow forsaken with one Restaurant Week appetizer, a chaotic combination of griddled shrimp, peas, mushrooms and grits that couldn't manage to create a harmonious whole, lost in an overly tart dressing of lemon and garlic. Flavors regained harmony in a bowl of smoked shrimp bisque with a drizzle of lemon-cayenne creme fresh, even if there was nothing about it to raise much praise or amazement.
The one entree that spoke best of the sassy personality within Harry's soul was also the least pretentious -- fat wedges of crisp and creamy "mac and cheese," elevated to the realm of gooey greatness with the addition of lump crab meat and a side of olive oil-poached tomato. Such sensuality paired better with the extraordinary creme brulee than with the "assorted cookies" dessert.
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