Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Rehoboth Restaurant Week: Porcini House (UPDATED)


Rehoboth Beach's Restaurant Week has been under way since Monday, with $20 to $30 prix fixe dinners available at 22 participating eateries through Saturday.

Go to http://www.rehomain.com/ for a complete list of restaurants.

We're sending a few staffers out and about. Look for highlights soon.

Friday night in Rehoboth, I got an early gander at the very crowded Porcini House Bistro and Treetop Lounge (formerly Chez La Mer) on Second Street. (That's a photo of the old Chez - sorry, don't have a new photo of the Porcini House just yet......but I'll post it when we do.)

Lots of excitement about this restaurant. And just to give you a contrast - Fusion, a restaurant nearby on Wilmington Avenue which had once been one of the most popular eateries in Rehoboth, was practically empty.

Chez always seemed like a "grown-ups" restaurant to me. Jay Caputo, chef/owner of Espuma, took over the legendary Rehoboth French restaurant last summer and gave it a beautiful face-lift.

After a winter of renovations, the restaurant has emerged with a fresh, warm, inviting and modern look as well as an updated menu.
Antique pine floors remain, but they have been sanded and reinforced. Walls are painted in soft orange and mossy green hues and tables covered in tan linens. There are new ceilings, windows, an open-air porch and fireplace lounge.

I'm not sure about the wooden banquette that lines the wall in one dining room. Lots of pillows on it but, to me, it didn't look that comfortable. And it was funny, but when servers went to seat people at two tops - with the banquette as one seat - there was immediate hesitation from diners about who would sit where.
But my dining buddy said he thought the banquette was comfortable and I liked that the chairs seemed to have higher cushions. (I dunno, I like sitting up "high" - it's a short-person thing, I guess.)

Among the standout dishes were the terra "flatbread" ($12.50), a super thin crust pizza with a lightly blistered and crunchy crust, topped with meaty porcini mushrooms, truffles and a sprinkle of parmesan.

Caputo's menu also includes large- and small-plate risotti. He has a deft hand with rice and we loved his creamy tomato basil, chicken and parmesan risotto ($9 small portion.) For main dishes, the seared tuna with chickpeas, olives, cherry tomatoes and basil pesto ($17) is a new lighter, fresher approach to some classic Italian flavors.

There are still a few kinks to work out: The kobe beef hot dog ($12) was served too charred for my taste, and my Culinary Companion dismissed it as "a novelty dish." (The hot dog was so blackened it looked like it was produced by a boozy uncle manning the grill at a family backyard barbecue after a few too many brewskis.)
The guy sitting at the table next to us also complained that his burger ($13) was overcooked and barely touched his "grilled fresh popcorn."

But all was better with creamy and downright dangerously delicious chocolate mousse ($6.50).

After Caputo makes a few kitchen adjustments - and has a talk with the grill guy to stop serving blackened meat unless someone requests it - I have a feeling this is going to be one of the must-eat-at restaurants of the summer.
Just thinking about the flatbreads and risotto makes me want to return very soon.

And just an FYI, reservations are accepted only for parties of six or more. Call 227-6494.

Speaking of the beach, the summer season is fast approaching, and there are more than a few new Sussex places on the horizon. One of the coolest I've seen so far is Stingray Sushi Bar + Asian Latino Grill, 59 Lake Ave. in Rehoboth Beach.

Owner Darius Mansoory took over the 59 Lake restaurant and is in the middle of renovations. (You can't miss it, it's the bright orange building across from Zebra Ristorante on Lake Avenue.)

Very roomy, big bar. Sushi bar was still being built last week.

And it has parking - FREE parking.

- Patricia Talorico

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