Painting the town red

The sun was shining today on the Phillies and the fans.

Some scenes from today's Phillies parade from our position at Broad and Lombard streets. (Chase Utley and Ryan Howard are in the top pix.)

Crazy fun, but not out-of-control. Spirits were high - and yep, people around us were downing them too - but it wasn't a drunken madhouse. Just very, very happy people wearing more red than Nancy Reagan. Some fans even climbed trees for a better viewing position, until cops asked them to get down.

We started our day out at the Wilmington train station - bad move. For me and about 500 other people. We abandoned that ship real soon when it looked like the trains were going to be running very late. (Some 20somethings standing on the platform were carrying 12-packs of beer, cracking open cans and pouring the beer into coffee cups. Kids, you weren't fooling anyone. Oh yeah, I remember when I was young and dumb and didn't worry about having to go to the bathroom after drinking so much beer at 9 a.m. Those were the days. Not.)

Surprisingly, the traffic on I-95 was very light and we got into Center City in less than 30 minutes. Easy parking too! (On the street!) We stood by the Public Health building, which was handing out free hand-cleanser. That was kind of funny.

Before the parade began, some attention seekers were walking down Broad Street. Like the guy dressed as Elvis. And another guy who had a hat that looked like the World Series trophy. And the guy on stilts. And then some kid began riding his bike and popped a wheelie. The crowd went bananas - and then booed him when he nearly fell off said bike. I love Philadelphia.

My favorite part of the parade was seeing Ryan Howard (love him!) and Jamie Moyer. The players looked so psyched. We got Moyer and Pedro Feliz's attention. When Harry Kalas and Wheels went by, the crowd began chanting "Harry, Harry, Harry." Confetti was everywhere and I stuffed some into my pocket for a keepsake.

Afterward, we decided to treat ourselves to lunch and sparkling wine at Parc on Rittenhouse. (On the walk over to the restaurant, a group of guys who lived in a house near Broad Street were charging people $5 to use their bathroom - and people were paying them. Now, that's a way to make some easy cash.)

We got a sidewalk table at Parc and crocks of French onion soup - very cheesy with a full-flavored, deep bodied broth - the charcuterie plate (I could eat the chicken liver mousse every day) and a few other noshes. The place was packed and it seemed like every person walking by was wearing a Phillies hat, T-shirt, sweatshirt or jacket.

Crazy, wonderful day.

Reader Mail

Red October. Gotta love it. It's a great week to be a Phillies fan. Let us all bask for just a bit. We deserve it.

Reader mail is early again this week. In Friday's 55 Hours section, look for Rachel Kipp's "Regular Gal" write up about the Cereal Bowl at 181 E. Main St. in Newark. I'll post a link as soon as the story goes online.

Onto the mailbag:

QUESTION: Patricia,

Is there a good place in Wilmington to get delicious soup for dinner? There are plenty of places that have homemade soup for lunch downtown, but the city seems to close down around dinner time. I have heard of The Soup Man, but I can't seem to find any information or reviews on their soups. Thanks!

ANSWER: I just ate a wonderful roasted fennel and goat cheese soup at Sugarfoot in Wilmington. {Soup is good food.} But I'm not sure if they stay open for dinner....And I never get tired of the tomato parmesan soup at Culinaria. (Or the roasted antipasto..)

OK, what's UP with The Soup Man?? I'm intrigued. Never heard of him (at least, not in Delaware) - but, readers, PLEASE, any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated...

While it's not in Wilmington, I would highly recommend the Vietnamese pho soup at Pho Nhu Vu, 1146 Pulaski Highway, (U.S. 40) in Bear, 595-2529.

QUESTION: I'm looking for a good Thai restaurant around Newark, Delaware. I've tried Tasti Thai [in New Castle] and Soybean Asian Grille (in Pike Creek) on recommendations, but neither are very good. I used to live in New York and had the pleasure of an amazing Thai restaurant within a mile of my home. To me, delicious Thai food has the freshest ingredients with a very fresh/clean taste and an abundance of vegetables. Everything I've found is heavy, sometimes greasy, and always reliant on large rice/noodle portions to hide the lack of vegetables. Any help is very appreciated.

Maria Fargo

ANSWER: Maria, New York is the culinary capital of the world, so it's going to be hard to measure up. I'm out of Thai places to suggest around Newark, but maybe you'll enjoy Sweet Basil Thai Cuisine , 275 Wilmington-West Chester Pike (U.S. 202); near Glen Mills, Pa.; (610) 358-4015. It's a BYO just over the Delaware state line in north Wilmington.

There's also the Bangkok House, 104 N. Union St., Wilmington, 654-8555. I haven't been to Bangkok for a while. During my last visit, I recall the dining room needed some sprucing up and patience is a must here since the service can be very slow. (And that's probably why I saw so many take-out bags going out the door.)

QUESTION: PLEASE go check out Burrito Bandido on Maryland Avenue in Wilmington across from Dunkin' Donuts. This is Mexican done authentic and amazing. It is not AmMex, CalMex, or TexMex, but the real deal.. The platters are all very filling, the salsas made right there and nothing like I've ever had anywhere. He uses olive oil for his refried beans and not lard, a totally different and delicious taste that doesn't feel like you're licking a grease barrel. They could put La Tolteca out of biz if they had more pizazz. Not long on atmosphere but the help is great, will take the time to explain the menu without a rush. Have only been at lunch, can't speak for dinner or breakfast times. Give them a look, it is far more than meets the eye.

Love the blog,

Andy

ANSWER: Thanks for the tip, Andy. My colleague Gary and I stopped into Burrito Bandido, 227. N. Maryland Ave., Wilmington, 652-5749, earlier this week. You're right - not long on atmosphere, but they do offer really big portions. I think the burritos were as fat as a baseball bat. (While we waited for an order, a woman at the table near us said she likes the Bandido better than Moe's.) The salsa - red and green (tomatillo) - was indeed homemade and had a lot of fire. My favorite burrito was the carnitas or pork ($6.50) that's stuffed with rice, refried beans, lettuce and tomatoes. I also enjoyed the chorizo ($6.50) burrito. The sausage seemed like it had a hint of cinnamon.

These burritos are by no means a refined meal, but it will feed the gullet quite nicely and very cheaply. More is coming soon about the Bandido.

QUESTION: Hi, after reading the Second Helpings questions and answers recently published in the paper, we decided to try Pomodoro [729 N Union St, Wilmington, 574-9800] another time. We were last there late last winter and had a so-so meal with OK service. Last Thursday night we enjoyed a wonderful meal and good service. As we were savoring Chef Giuseppe's home made mozzarella Caprese, he came by our table to say hello and then sent out another appetizer of Straciatella wrapped in prosciutto he'd made just for us. What a treat! We will definitely be returning often after an evening like that!

Carroll Eaton

ANSWER: I've also had so-so meals there and less than stellar service. But the reports from readers lately have been good, so I will revisit Pomodoro soon.

QUESTION: Hi, Pat. I'm wondering if you have any suggestions for dining out on Thanksgiving. We'd like to try and go out to dinner this year instead of cooking at home.

Thanks in advance,

Christina

ANSWER: Christina, for food writers, Thanksgiving is kind of like the Super Bowl. We train for it all year. I can't recall ever dining out on Turkey Day - so, I'm sorry I can't be more helpful - though, after several years of wrestling a large, unruly bird in-and-out of the oven , and looking at a sinkful of dishes, I understand why people would much rather have someone else do the cooking and cleaning up. I have found out that almost all restaurants are open that day - unlike Christmas when your best bet is usually an Asian eatery. I just received an email from Harry's Savoy Grill about its Thanksgiving offerings. Here's a link to the web site. If I hear of other good suggestions, I'll post them on Second Helpings in early November. Readers, any thoughts?

QUESTION: Hi Patricia!

I'm wondering if this is the appropriate place to ask for some lost recipes! I had a recipe that I was using for an apple crisp with an oatmeal topping. The oatmeal topping included steel cut oats. I have since lost the recipe and wondered if there is anyone else out there who might be looking for one too?! Can you provide one? Or see if anyone else has one to share?

Thanks,

Rebecca Saxton

ANSWER: Hi Rebecca. I forwarded your request along to Nancy Coale Zippe. Nancy's column runs every Wednesday in the News Journal's Life section and she handles recipe requests from readers. Nancy said she just emailed you a recipe. Thanks.

I LOVE a parade!

There IS joy in Mudville. Woo-hoo.

I'm heading to the parade on Friday.

There's no way this lifelong Phillies fan is going to miss THAT celebration!

Reader Mail is going to run a little early. Stay tuned. I'll post it sometime late this afternoon.

You ask. We answer. Every Friday. (Or unless the Phillies FINALLY win a World Series, then it runs on Thursday.)

Email your dining questions to ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Please, please, pretty please....

World Series Clinch (I hope) Part II.

Phils could do it tonight.

Cue Richard Kiley's inspirational "'Impossible Dream" from Man of La Mancha.

(Aren't you tired of the overplayed "Rocky" song?)

In today's Food section

Fire, baby, fire.

I love my gas grill and use it year-round. Where there's smoke, there's me with a pair of tongs.

But I will admit that I'm not the world's greatest griller.

Fish, kebabs and vegetables are all a snap, but I never seem to get steak right. Part of the problem may be due to impatience.

On Sunday, I threw some beautiful T-bones on the grill and thought I had the perfect outside char. Then, I did the old finger test - poked the meat to see if it was done - and truly believed I finally got it right.

I let the meat rest and when we cut into it- it was more blue than medium-rare. Argggg. Back on the grill again. What's the secret to steak?

Today's food section is about autumn foods and autumn grilling, such throwing a few sausage on the barbie.

One of my favorite cookbook authors Rick Rodgers also offers some great recipes.

And we have a story about hot-headed chef Gordon Ramsay who tries to help some former Delaware residents turn around a struggling Indiana restaurant on an upcoming episode of Kitchen Nightmares, scheduled to air at 9 p.m. Thursday.

(Yes, I know, we spelled Muncie, Indiana, wrong in the print version. It's been corrected online. I appreciate the phone calls, dear readers, who pointed out the error this morning. Yes, indeedy, it was a screw-up, kind of like those T-bone steaks. I'll try harder next time.)

Lorenzo's: Good pizza, no sign of the Van Buren Boys

Following my Regular Guy Pizza review this summer, several readers chimed in with other pizza places for me to discover. One of those was Lorenzo's Pizza & Italian near New Castle (322-9085).

Lorenzo's did not disappoint. If you like pizza with gooey cheese and a soft crust, a recipe for a great New York-style pizza, then check out Lorenzo's. They're in Churchman's Center, which sits where Route 58 ends at Route 273 (there's a Commerce Bank there).

Who are the Van Buren Boys? It was an episode of Seinfeld where Kramer runs into trouble at a pizzeria, and yes, was confronted by gang named after the former president. (Kramer: "Oh yea, and they're just as mean as he was!")

Anyway, Kramer inadvertently flashes out the gang's secret sign and all is well. George later runs into his own problems. But anyway, at the Lorenzo's in Delaware, I'm not aware of any secret codes. Just some good pizza.

In other news, the Buffalo Wild Wings near Stanton is open. Great wings and other great munchies if you've never been, and it's a fun place to watch a game. During a Phillies game last week, I am pretty sure everyone in there was wearing red.

The new BWW is on Limestone Road near Kirkwood Highway, and don't be afraid to pull in if the parking lot looks full. They put in a small parking garage underneath the new building.

Wilmington: A Place to Stay During a Rain Delay (UPDATE)

Who you calling Del-a-where??

We got a local guy running for the vice-presidency, and now we have World Series competitors staying at one of our hotels....

It's cool to be Delaware right now.

(Yeah, I know, I'm stretching...)

Anyone spy Rays players out and about or eating in local restaurants? What are they ordering?

Let Second Helpings know. We're hungry for this kind of news.

Comment, comment....

NEW UPDATE: Here's a story from The Tampa Tribune about the Rays and Delaware. Some of it's funny because it's just FLAT OUT WRONG like how Delaware supposedly has no seashores. Uh, come again? That's news to the folks in Lewes, Rehoboth Beach, Dewey Beach, Bethany Beach and Fenwick Island. Also, I guess the writer didn't know that the Phils were once owned by a DELAWARE family from 1943 until 1981 and that the Phillies exercised in the Hotel du Pont's Gold Ballroom during World War II..........

And, just an update on the whole Biden "Katie's restaurant on Union Street" goof:

Since many readers keep asking, I did email Biden spokesman David Wade and asked him if our senior Senator really meant to mention Katie's during the vice-presidential debate or if he, in fact, meant to say Kozy Korner's or Mrs. Robino's (both restaurants are on Union Street.)

I'm still waiting for an answer...

Serve me a World Series win, please.

Do you dare to dream?

I do, I do.

The Phils got the Phever and so do fans. (And I write this while wearing with my favorite red "P" T-shirt.)

I've got that same goosebump tingling feeling I did in 1993 when I saw them clinch the National League Championship in old (but not so good) Vet stadium.

I believe. I've got a dream. Tonight's the night.

Beers and dogs for dinner? Or should it be cheesesteaks and champagne? I don't care as long as I'm served up a World Series win.

UPDATE at 10:49 p.m.: Rain delay?? Are you freakin' kidding me???? Good thing I didn't pop the champagne. Only in Philadelphia would the agony be prolonged.....Uh, geez, now John Bolaris is saying more and harder rain tonight and on Tuesday. Excuse me, while I go toss my Phils T- shirt in the washing machine. Looks like we're going to be sweating this one out....

Wild about Harry's

It's a beautiful day - for autumn weather and Philadelphia sports.

Wow, what an ending to last night's (well, really this morning's) Phils game! Can't wait for tonight.

Tried to go to the Great Pumpkin Carve in Chadds Ford, Pa., on Friday night - but the lines! Talk about a Halloween horror show. Organizers told me about 10,000 to 12,000 people show up every year and they aren't exaggerating.

We actually only waited in line - in the car - on U.S. 1 for about 5, maybe 10, minutes, before we bagged it and went to dinner. My first choice was Brandywine Prime - we were right there - but my partner in crime wanted to go to Harry's Savoy Grill.

It turned out to be an excellent choice. The place was buzzing with activity - of all ages - and it just seemed like everyone was having fun. (I've said this before, and I'll say it again: I know it's an unsteady economy and everyone is concerned about spending money, but most, if not, all the seats seemed filled at Harry's on Friday. From what I can tell, people are still opening their wallets to dine out - at least on weekends.)

We got a table without a reservation, which surprised me since past experience on a Friday night often has meant a long wait. (OK, it was the two top next to the ladies room - not my first choice - but I was hungry and didn't feel like asking, or waiting, for another table.)

Harry's owner Xavier Teixido once told me - and I hope I'm remembering this correctly - that Harry's is the kind of place a single gal who likes to dine out frequently could take her father or uncle and both would be happy with what's on the menu. I think that's an excellent description (and I hope my memory is serving me well.)

Our dinner included lobster dumplings; butternut squash-pear soup; a cornmeal crusted oyster salad - plump, sweet and crunchy - with sweet corn, tomatoes and bacon that I can't stop thinking about; fried onion rings and quail.

I loved the complimentary pickled mushrooms brought to the table and we both ordered glasses of a very smooth, quite tasty, reserve Pinot Noir that was recently selected as the favorite wine at Harry's recent "Pinot Envy" party. (Sorry, can't remember the name; I wasn't taking notes, just concentrating on the conversation and my meal.)

Bottom line: Very enjoyable meal and money well spent.

On Saturday, I made the baked penne pasta with sweet sausage, roasted peppers and arugula dish (see Friday's post for recipe) and it won raves from the group gathered to watch the Phils game. Great, easy recipe. It's a keeper.

I'm off to buy a couple of pumpkins to decorate the front step and shop for dinner. Go Eagles! Go Phils!

More Reader Mail

Happy Friday. As I said Thursday, the mailbag was overflowing this week, so consider this Reader Mail: The Sequel. Scroll down or click here to see letters posted Thursday.


Eric Ruth reviews Ole Tapas Lounge & Restaurant in Newark. Here are his thoughts.

Got a dining/food question? Every Friday, you ask. We answer. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Let's get to the mailbag.


Note: Last week, Henry asked where to take his grandson, who frequently dines in New York's Chinatown, for an Asian dinner in Delaware. We had several suggestions and so did readers. Here's Henry's response:


QUESTION: Dear Ms. Talorico,
Thank you for the post. We will let my grandson choose between Rasa Sayang and Hibachi Steak House. I am sure he will have fun here. Have a wonderful weekend.
Henry


ANSWER: Let us know where you went and how it was. Comment below.


QUESTION: Last Dec. 26, you showcased a recipe for baked pasta with tomato, red pepper & sweet Italian sausage sauce. I had clipped the page with the recipe and about a month ago I finally decided to give it a try and am so glad that I did; we just loved it -- especially the blend of subtle but complex flavors -- unusual combo of ingredients!


After making this unique recipe twice I thought I'd like to take a look at the cookbook by the same author?...(I believe the article mentioned a cookbook.) However, while I did make a copy of the recipe I failed to note the name of the chef and title of his/her cookbook and I have misplaced the clipped article. Could you provide the cookbook author and title of book for me from your archives....please, please!


Do you yourself actually test-drive the recipes you showcase?....Just curious because many of them either look interesting and worth a try and those have been a nice success. I would really appreciate your help on this.


Thanks in advance,
Cathy


ANSWER: Cathy, I'm so glad you liked that recipe. I did too and now I think I may make it for a gathering Saturday night. (We're watching the Fightin' Phils. Go BIG RED. Go.)


The recipe comes from the "Seriously Simple Holidays" cookbook (Chronicle Books, $24.95) by food writer Diane Rossen Worthington. She writes that her baked pasta with tomato, red pepper and sweet Italian sausage is perfect for casual entertaining. Worthington saves cooks a few steps by making use of jarred marinara sauce and jarred roasted red peppers. It's a rustic dish that pairs nicely with Sangiovese, Barbera or a lighter Zinfandel. (I reprinted the recipe for others who may want to make it. SEE RECIPE BELOW.)


I do try to test most of the recipes that accompany stories that I write. (You'll see the byline - Patricia Talorico - at the top.) But I must admit, I don't test all of them. Here's a little whine: I wish we had a "test" kitchen such as the one at the San Francisco Chronicle. My "test kitchen" is my own home or sometimes I take over friends and relatives stoves. I do try to select recipes for publication from very reliable cookbook authors and chefs - i.e. those that actually make their dishes in a real home kitchen. That's one reason why I like Italian cook Marcella Hazan so much. Her recipe ALWAYS work. She told me me makes them at least half a dozen times and her husband double-checks every step. I do cook quite often and understand the frustration and anger that comes from a recipe that is a complete failure.


QUESTION: Hello Pat. I wanted to make a couple of comments.

We dine out often and wanted to share recent experience with you.


Hot Plate, New Castle


We visited Hot Plate and had a bad experience. The food was mediocre at best and the service was awful. It took about 45 minutes to get out orders. While we waited, one of the non-busy bus ladies stood leaned over the counter and was a foot away from my wife as she waited for the meal, while she ate her meal and until we got the check for the meal. It was awful. The chicken wrap she ordered was a thick pita type wrap with a lot of the grease (right off the grill type grease) and included the bonus of a hair on the plate. My experience was not as bad, as I ordered a salad with shrimp and it was OK.


Pomodoro on Union Street, Wilmington


Wonderful food, excellent and fun wait staff that always has something interesting to make the dining experience, special. The whole dorado or other whole fish is usually great. The chefs are from Naples and the meals are creative and prepared like no other Italian place in Wilmington. Try the homemade chocolatechello (even better than its lemon counterpart), usually complimentary, as a cordial.


Ole Tapas Lounge & Restaurant, Newark


What a great new place. Every tapas we tried was great and challenged the tastebuds. Two of the owners were there and one handled us personally, which made the experience special. Next time we will go there for the Friday happy hour where the tapas are 1/2 price as is the sangria!


Madeline's, Little Italy, Wilmington


A piece of South Philly right here in Wilmington. The staff and food remind me of the old neighborhood in South Philly. Often times the waitresses will call the guests "hon" and many regulars crowd the bar talking about the Phillies, politics or whatever is the hot topic of the day....The food is great Italian "gravy" cooking with several homemade pastas to accompany any dish. They will usually "go off the menu" and create any combinations or special entrees that you like. Many times I get the 1/2 spaghetti and 1/2 ravioli dinner...which is not on the menu. The broccoli rabe over pasta is a unique and special dish that is wonderful here.


Tom Clarke


ANSWER: Tom, thanks for the reviews. Very helpful to others. I actually had a very good lunch at the Hot Plate, along with good service, and not such a good experience at Pomodoro. (Though a couple of readers have said they've had wonderful experiences at Pomodoro so I'm going to give it another shot.) I do agree with you that Madeline's is a hidden gem in Wilmington's Little Italy neighborhood and Eric Ruth gives a fork up today to Ole Tapas.


Just a note, readers: I love receiving - and posting - all kinds of viewpoints when it comes to area restaurants. And I also liked that Tom used his full name with his letter. Please share with me all your dining experiences. But I won't post a bad experience UNLESS you use your full name. I think that's only fair. Eric Ruth, Buddy "Regular Guy Grub" Hurlock and I all use our names on dining reviews - good and bad.


QUESTION: I have been looking for a German deli where I can get good lunch meat such as liverwurst, metwurst, lundjager’s blutwurst and haven’t been able to find one in Delaware. At one time I could get it at the deli in Fairfax but they closed and so did the one in Wilmington in Trolley Square. Any recommendations would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,
Rita


ANSWER: Rita, I'm not really sure where to go since Edda's Deli in Trolley Square closed way back when and the Imperial Deli was shuttered last year. You could try Janssen's in Greenville. (Former Edda's owner Edda Wieland works there now in the deli department.)


The Euro Market, 107 Louviers Drive, Shoppes of Louviers, off Paper Mill Road, in Newark, 286-7911, says it offers European cheeses and meats.



Readers, here's the recipe that Cathy wrote about:


BAKED PASTA WITH TOMATO, RED PEPPER AND SWEET ITALIAN SAUSAGE SAUCE

From Diane Rossen Worthington's "Seriously Simple Holidays" cookbook (Chronicle Books, $24.95). The dish can be made a day ahead, covered and refrigerated. Remove from the refrigerator 2 hours before baking and uncover before baking. For a vegetarian version, omit the sausage and use a total of 2 pounds of cremini mushrooms and 2 sliced zucchini.


SAUCE:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 pound sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
1/2 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 cups favorite marinara sauce
One 12-ounce jar roasted red peppers, rinsed, drained and finely chopped
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper


In a large, deep flameproof casserole, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Cook the sausage meat, breaking up the meat with a spoon, for about 5 minutes, or until no pinkness remains. Drain off the fat. Add the mushrooms and saute for 4 minutes. Add the garlic and saute for 1 minute. Add the marinara sauce and red peppers, reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the sauce begins to thicken. Add the cream, season with salt and pepper and stir to combine. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the sauce begins to thicken. Taste and adjust the seasonings.


PASTA
1 pound penne pasta
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup freshly grated Asiago cheese
One half 6-ounce bag arugula leaves


Preheat the oven to 375. Oil a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Salt the water, add the pasta, and cook over high heat for 10 to 11 minutes, or until al dente. Drain well. In a medium bowl, stir together the cheeses. Combine the pasta with the sauce in the pot. Add 1 cup of the blended cheeses and the arugula leaves, mixing well to combine. Spoon the mixture into the prepared dish and evenly sprinkle with the remaining blended cheeses. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the sauce begins to bubble and the cheese is browned. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Biden shops for clothes close to home

Something to chew on ...that's not necessarily food related ...but it is Delaware-related and you know we're all about our local guy Joe here at Biden Central.

So the flap continues today about Sarah Palin spending $150,000 in clothes, hair styling and accessories.

But Joe sticks close to home when it comes to buying HIS clothes.

On Aug. 25, I wrote story - along with features editor Betsy Price - about where Biden does his wardrobe shopping.

It's not Neiman Marcus. It's not Barneys New York.

It's the local Jos. A. Banks store in Greenville.

Conservative Delaware is not exactly the fashion capital of the world. Jos. A. Banks is a 450-store chain and happens to be the place where a lot of local businessmen - i.e. area bankers -shop.

(Joe apparently likes the Jos. A. Banks' Traveler's Collection line of no-iron, wrinkle-free shirts. The web site says two shirts are $129.99 and "executive" suits start at $199.) Looking good on a budget is the name of the game.

Here's the story:

By PATRICIA TALORICO and BETSY PRICE
The News Journal

Joe Biden's sense of style has long been: Never let them see you rumpled.

As Barack Obama's running mate, Biden will be basking in the national and international limelight like never before.

Yet the Delaware senator has long understood that first impressions are lasting. He may sometimes put his foot in his mouth, but the 65-year-old is also known for putting a natty foot forward.

Local style arbiters believe that Biden's bastion of old school fashion savoir-faire -- from his carefully coifed head and dazzling white teeth to crisp shirts and neatly polished shoes -- will continue to serve him well with the very picky fashion police.

"I think Joe has a very American high style. Very Ralph Lauren. He has a commanding look about him, but it's a sophisticated look as well. It's very approachable," says Michael Christopher Hemphill, owner of Wilmington's Michael Christopher Hair Salon.

Biden tends to favor the sharp and standard "banker" look that's oh-so popular in his home state. His suit selections are almost always blues and grays and he prefers "no wrinkle" shirts.

And Biden is certainly not above passing along his sense of style: he often donates personalized Senate cuff links as charity auction items.

"He's pretty conservative, but sort of updated conservative," says Jay Steimle, store manager of the Jos. A. Bank store in Greenville, where the vice presidential candidate is a regular customer.

Is this a senator thing?

"I think it's a Delaware thing," Steimle says. "He's one of our best white-shirt buyers."

Steimle has known Biden for 35 years. He first began helping Biden with his clothes selections at the old Mullin's store in Wilmington.

The senator has been shopping at Jos. A. Banks in Greenville Crossing on Kennett Pike ever since the store opened 15 years ago. He often pops in on Saturdays.

"He never goes for anything real wild. As far as his suits go, he's pretty basic. But he'll step out a little more with the color of his ties," Steimle says

Biden sometimes selects strong gold and yellow ties and he likes the Jos. A. Banks' Traveler's Collection line of no-iron, wrinkle-free shirts.

"He always looks nice and neat and crisp."

While Biden does sometimes seek fashion advice, Steimle says "he's pretty much his own guy. He's the classic dresser."

If Biden dresses down, he's not donning short shorts, slogan T-shirts or even sweats -- at least not in public.

"I've never seen him in sweats. He always looks like he stepped out of the pages of GQ [magazine]," Steimle says. "If he's wearing shorts, they're neatly pressed. He has a Corvette convertible and sometimes he'll wear a baseball hat, but he always looks nice and neat."

Hemphill agrees. "I think Joe wears pretty classic choices. I don't think he's going to be sporting any kind of Crocs any time soon."

Part of Biden's elegant style can be attributed to his "good body type," says Leonard Simon, owner of the Wright & Simon men's clothing store on Market Street in Wilmington.

"Joe is handsome and thin, and he looks good in his clothes. Certain people look good in clothes and he does. He's tall and slender. That's a good look for any person. He always look sharp and crisp," Simon says.

Biden, who sometimes wears shirts with formal French cuffs, often donates cuff links for local charity auctions. The gold and dark blue cuff links, slightly bigger than a dime, have the Senate seal and are engraved with the words "U.S. Senator Joseph R. Biden Jr."

The cuffs can sometimes be spotted on the sleeves of Delaware Democrats, including Bill Montgomery, chief of staff for Wilmington Mayor James M. Baker.

Questions about his hairline

Biden has taken ribbing over the years for his changing hairline -- there's been talk about hair plugs since his first run for president in 1987 -- but Hemphill believes the senator's now-snowy white mane is yet another example that "Joe maintains himself extremely well."

"I like his hair. However, I believe it is transplants," says Hemphill, who was a Biden neighbor for about 15 years.

Hemphill -- who has gone through two rounds of hair transplants -- believes that Biden has done the same.

"The only thing you can do for your hair is to stay bald or get transplants or get a toupee. I'm so glad he got transplants."

Hemphill also believe Biden's sharp style makes Delaware look good.

"Conservative can be very boring at times, but Joe steps it up a bit. I think he's stylish in a fashionable way. Not trendy. He has a sense of preppie to him, but with a little bit of flair to him," Hemphill says.

Steimle says Biden was last in the Jos. A. Banks store about three weeks ago. (At the time, he didn't ask for or purchase a special suit or tie for his Saturday debut as Obama running mate outside the Old State Capitol in Illinois.) And Steimle doesn't yet know if Biden will be back in anytime soon.

"I probably won't see him much now," he says, "but I hope so."

Contact Patricia Talorico at 324-2861 or ptalorico@delawareonline.com. Contact Betsy Price at 324-2884 or beprice@delawareonline.com.

Reader Mail

The mailbag is overflowing this week - so, Second Helpings fans, we will have two days - count 'em two, two, TWO! - of Reader Mail.

Greek, Turkish and German food are the topics today.

Come back Friday and I'll have more mail and also a link to Eric Ruth's 55 Hours review of Ole Tapas Restaurant & Lounge.

Keep the email coming to me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com. You ask. We answer. Every Friday (and sometimes on Thursdays...)

QUESTION: Hi Pat, I read Second Helpings last week and enjoyed it very much. It also prompted me to ask a question I have asked at every Greek Festival I have attended here in Wilmington, the first week in June, for the past 10 years or so.

Why, with the large Greek community in Wilmington and the number of people who seem to LOVE the traditional Greek food, is there NO Greek restaurant here?!

I don't mean a restaurant that makes some dishes with a Greek influence, or a fancy gourmet Greek restaurant, but a "taverna" style one that serves souvlaki, lamb chops, moussaka, gyros, fried calamari, saganaki, tzatsiki, taramasalata, etc.

As it is now, we drive to Bryn Mawr, Pa., to Lourdas Tavern (very near the train station in Bryn Mawr) when we need our "fix" of great Greek food.

And it's a BYO on top of that!

Thanks,
Beth Tomanelli, Wilmington

ANSWER: Beth, that's a very good question. One of my dearest friends is Greek and very picky about Greek food and, well, we just haven't found any place in Delaware that she approves of.

You could try the European Bistro, 1710 Naamans Road, Wilmington, 529-7773, which serves gyros, spanakopita and avgolemono.

Or, if you're willing to drive to Philadelphia, I'd head to Dmitri's BYO at 795 Third St. (Catharine Street), (215) 625-0556 - it's casual and often very crowded.

I hear wonderful things about Estia, 1405-07 Locust St. (between Broad and 15th street); (215) 735-7700, but it is a more expensive, "gourmet" dining experience.

Readers? Do you know of any other places? Restaurateurs, why aren't you offering Greek food?

QUESTION: Istanbul is Back. The former owner [of a Turkish restaurant] has re-opened under the Cappadocia name in same location on Fletchwood Road in Elkton, Md. The food is as it was when it opened in 2000. He and his son wanted to get the place back to serving great food. The location has gone from basic to night club to pizza joint. Go back and try the food again.

ANSWER: I believe you're talking about Istanbul Kabob House (175 Fletchwood Road, Elkton, Md.), a restaurant I haven't visited since 2004.

The restaurant had ZERO atmosphere - really, it was like a bingo hall - but a slice of its lahmacun, sort of a Turkish version of pizza absent the cheese, would bring me back to that plain Jane dining room in a minute. I loved the ultra-thin, melt-in-your mouth pita that was spread with an addictive spread of ground beef, onions, peppers and parsley. The restaurant's superb puffy bread and spreads, especially the wonderfully smoky baba ganuj and patlican soslu, or mixed pieces of eggplant in a spicy sauce of tomatoes, green peppers, onion and garlic, were other winners.

I do hope this is true and will make a trek there soon to check it out. Fingers crossed.

QUESTION: Ms. Talorico, thanks for the long list of German Restaurants [in a recent Second Helpings Reader Mail post.]

Here's a link to one more: Sebastian's Schnitzelhaus . Channel 10 did a short story on it a month ago. It is in Wrightstown, N.J. near Fort Dix.

It is somewhat expensive with a full Schnitzel meal with red cabbage and potato pancakes about $20.

Many thanks for recommending the Dumpling House in Wilmington. Delicious food and comfortable experience.

Rasa Malaysian Cuisine, [a new restaurant in Independence Mall, 1601 Concord Pike in Brandywine Hundred, 543-5286]; had good food, but the noise level at lunch was intolerable. Imagine the cacophony at dinnertime after cocktails!

Will Prost

P.S.: For serious chileheads only, I would recommend the last appetizer on China Royal's menu: "salt roasted green peppers." Out came five or six long green chilies in a faintly sweet brown sauce. I got through two and took the rest home to add to some stew.

I've never had such a hot and tasty long chile and I grow two or three dozen different chile plants each year obtained from ChilePlants.com Home Page . They also ship unusual fresh chilies this time of year from their farm up across the river from New Hope.

ANSWER: Great letter, Will. Lots of helpful information.

And more good German food news....

QUESTION: Pat, I read your column and have the name and location of German restaurants.

One that I have visited several times is" The Alpenhof Restaurant and Guest House." It is located at the following address: 903 Morgantown Road; Reading Pa., 19607; (610) 373-1624; alpenhofbnb@aol.com

Another place for German food is "Cannstatter Volksfest-Verein." The Cannstatter is at 9130 Academy Road, Philadelphia, 19114; (215) 332-0121 Both of these restaurants require some driving but the food is well worth the trip.

"Guten Appetit."

They also have a good selection of German Bier.

Yours for gut eating,

John Nothstein.

Pumpkins, Phils trivia, Food Network casting...

Hey, Charlie Browns. Check out today's story on the Great Pumpkins at H.G. Haskell's farm in Chadds Ford, Pa.

NJ photographer Fred Comegys took his usual wonderful photos. That Fred. Damn, he's good. What you DON'T see in this photo is there were at least another 20 great pumpkins off to the left. H.G. was still waiting for even more pumpkins - at least double the amount - when this was shot last week.

(Thanks, H, for giving us so much time on the farm and at the SIW stand.)

We also include recipes for pumpkin mushroom soup (similar to the Back Burner in Hockessin), pumpkin bread and pumpkin cookies.

Can't wait for the upcoming Great Pumpkin Carve.

Also, my Diner's Digest column today goes into the more details on everything else below, but here are the highlights:

- Here's a bit of "hey-did-you-know?" trivia: In the book "Hotel du Pont Story" (Serendipity Press, 1981), Harry V. Ayres writes that the Philadelphia Phillies exercised in the Gold Ballroom during World War II (can you imagine that?). The team had been owned by the Carpenter family of Delaware from 1943 to 1981. Crazy. You'll never go to a wedding or fancy schmancy event there again without thinking about that.

- The Food Network is casting the fifth season of its series "The Next Food Network Star."
Producers are looking for people who are passionate about cooking, and knowledgeable about food, to meet them from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Oct. 29 at Embassy Suites Center City Philadelphia, 1776 Benjamin Franklin Parkway, Philadelphia. The open casting call will be on the hotel's 28th floor.

Download an application at www.foodnetwork.com/star and bring it. Callbacks will be held the next day. For more information, e-mail NFNS5phl@gmail.com.

- In Reader Mail, , a reader wondering where to get a good Reuben sandwich, lamented what he thought was the end of Annie's Restaurant on Greenhill Avenue in Wilmington.

But it turns out Annie's has just switched locations. In July, the restaurant moved from Wilmington to 11 Sanders Road in Elsmere. (It's next to the fire hall and the Wawa store.)

Owners are renovating the site and are expected to open shortly. Call 888-1229 for details.

- Hickman's Meat Market in Rehoboth Beach is now selling organic pasture-raised poultry from The Farm in Georgetown. The Farm is one of five certified organic farms in the state.

The Hickman family also is planning a second store in Lewes to open in early spring. The Del. 1 store will be attached to the new Bethany Blues Restaurant that's under construction.

Pressed for lunch? UPDATE

Didn't have time for a long, sitdown lunch today, but didn't want to sip soup at my desk.

(And how depressing is eating at your desk, anyway?)

It's no big secret that I love Italian food and suddenly got a hankering for a panino. When it comes to real panini - that is, the kind you buy from carts in Rome or ask for at a quick eatery in Florence - the sandwich maker will ask if you want it served hot. (And then he will grill it to order on a press.)

In Italy, they don't slather on mayonnaise or stuff panini with unessentials like lettuce. (Though arugula isn't unusual.) A panino is usually pressed until crispy and served with very good ham and cheese and the bread has chewy heft. It is way better than any old greasy grilled cheese made on Wonder white.

With panini on the brain, I was off to Presto! on Washington Street in Wilmington. I really like the vibe of this hip, casual and very cool place. I think it's probably my favorite eatery owned by Delaware restaurateur Darius Mansoory, though I do always enjoy his Mikimotos Asian Grill & Sushi Bar.

The service was fairly swift and the "Italian" panino ($8, I think?) didn't disappoint. The cheese was warm and melty and the bread had the lovely, brittle, toasty texture when I took a bite. You get a pickle (maybe homemade?) and a hot, pickled Italian pepper on the side.

My only regret? Not ordering one of the giant pancake-sized cookies I spied in the deli counter.

Tomorrow is another day.........

UPDATE: Chef Sean McNeice just told me the pickles are made "in house." Attaboy, and all that Sean. They're really good.

Dogs, etc.

Found a new place for lunch that specializes in hot dogs. It's Hogs & Dogs on 328 New Road in Elsmere, across from Angerstein's.

The hot dogs are grilled and are filling, but the buns could be of better quality. The fries were great and there's plenty more on the menu, including breakfast sandwiches, burgers, bratwurst, roast beef sandwiches, club sandwiches, cheesesteaks and subs.

The hot dog menu includes "slaw dogs," which include chili, and hot dog nuggets, for the kids. As for me, my order (above) was just a hot dog with mustard and some fries. If you want to check this new place out, note that they only stay open for lunch, closing at 2 p.m. daily (they're also closed Sundays). Their number is 993-1463.

Moving on to pizza, how much is too much to charge for one slice of pizza? One place is selling one-topping slices for $3. They serve big slices, but is $3 too much for one slice? I don't follow the business that closely. Maybe the cost of ingredients has spiked, like everything else. It was just a bit of sticker shock the other day, that's all.

Anyway, did you know that Halloween is one of the biggest sales days of the year for pizza? It only trails Super Bowl Sunday and New Year's Eve, according to a 2007 study by PizzaMarketplace.com.

Similar to the night before Thanksgiving, also one of the year's top sellers, few families bother to cook on Halloween. There are also those who order pizza for parties, and some even hand out slices to kids. Here's hoping the kids eat the slices as they get them, and not put them in their bags. But that would at least be better than getting a rock.

Inspired by pumpkins

Last week, I spent an afternoon stomping around H.G. Haskell's farm off Pa. 100 in Chadds Ford, Pa., looking at his pumpkin patch.

Haskell grows more than 3,000 pumpkins every year and supplies the giant pumpkins used in this Thursday's Great Pumpkin Carve in Chadds Ford. About 70 carvers show up at this annual event on the grounds of the Chadds Ford Historical Society and turn 100-plus pound pumpkins into all kinds of objects of art.

It gets crowded - 10,000 to 12,000 visitors are expected during the three-day event - but it's very cool. (Story comes out Wednesday.)

The pumpkin patch got me thinking about pumpkin dishes and inspired me to make a pumpkin-mushroom risotto.

The first time I had pumpkin risotto was in Umbria. Talk about autumn in a bowl! I doubt the Italian chef used canned pumpkin, but that's what was in my pantry. It works fine. Do NOT use canned pumpkin PIE filling.

Pumpkin-mushroom risotto

You also can saute thinly sliced fresh button mushrooms or criminis in butter and olive oil separately and use them instead of porcini mushrooms. (Skip the soaking step, if using fresh mushrooms, and use more stock.)

1 1/2 cups water
4 1/2 cups chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium broth
1 cup dried porcini mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 stick unsalted butter
1/4 cup finely chopped onions
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
About 1/2 cup canned pumpkin (do not use pumpkin pie filling)
Sprinkle of nutmeg
3/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Combine water and 1 cup stock in saucepan and heat until hot. Pour mushrooms and 1 tablespoon oil in a bowl and pour hot liquid over them. Let soak for about 30 minutes.

Lift porcini out of soaking liquid, squeeze excess liquid bakc into bowl, and rinse well to remove grit. Coarsely chop porcini. Pour soaking liquid through a fine sieve lined with a paper towel into a large saucepan. Add remaining cups of stock and bring to a bare simmer.
Melt 2 tablespoon butter with remaining oil in a saucepan over moderate heat. Add onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring for 2 minutes. Add white wine and stir until absorbed. Add 1/2 cup stock and cook at a strong simmer, stirring constantly, until stock is absorbed. Add rosemary, pumpkin and nutmeg. Stir well. Continue adding stock, about 1/2 cup at a time, stirring constantly and letting each addition be absorbed before adding next, until rice is tender and creamy, about 18 to 20 minutes. Taste to make sure the rice is tender. (There will be leftover stock.)
Stir in mushrooms. Take off heat and add remaining butter, cheese, salt and pepper, stirring well. If necessary, thin risotto with remaining stock.

Serve immediately with additional cheese and a drizzle of good, extra virgin olive oil on top. Makes 4 servings.

More Reader Mail

QUESTION: Hi, Ms. Talorico,
I love your blog; I read it every Friday. Thank you for the beautiful articles.
My grandson will visit me from New York City this weekend, and he has had a tremendous range of Asian cuisine tastes from Chinatown in lower Manhattan. I want to surprise him with our local authentic, traditional Asian restaurants, Japanese, Chinese, or others.

Would you recommend few for me, so I can show off?
Thank you greatly. Henry

ANSWER: Oh Henry. I'm going to be as positive as I can, but you're facing an uphill battle when it comes to comparing restaurants from Chinatown in New York and Asian places in little old Delaware.

Chinatown in New York is pretty hard to beat unless you're talking about Chinatown San Francisco.

I've talked to several Delaware Asian restaurant owners over the years who tell me that they are reluctant to offer more authentic food because they are afraid it won't appeal to "American" tastes.

And that's a big bummer.

I've been happy at the Dumpling House, 1828 W. 11th St., Wilmington; 888-1869, which can be one quirky restaurant. There are drawbacks to deal with: It has a very awkward layout on the first floor; it feels like a private club; and you have to bring your own booze. But Taipei raised owner Eileen Chao strives to offer the freshiest food possible on her very short menu.

She recommends the curry fish, spicy eggplant and, of course, the house pan-fried dumplings.

The new Rasa Sayang Malaysian restaurant in Independence Mall off U.S. 202 has received high marks from readers - and here's my colleague Eric Ruth's review.

I've always enjoyed the Kahl-Bee Korean restaurant, 2011 Kirkwood Hwy, Elsmere, 998-4310.

Another reader recently had a very good experience at the Korean Barbecue & Sushi Bar restaurant, 3 Liberty Plaza, Kirkwood Highway, Newark, 455-9100‎

For Thai food, I'd head to either Tasti Thai, 287 Christiana Road, New Castle DE 322-1306 or Sweet Basil Thai Cuisine, a BYO restaurant at 275 Wilmington-West Chester Pike (U.S. 202); near Glen Mills, Pa.; (610) 358-4015.

Some people, I know, are happy at China Royal, Plaza III Shopping Center in North Wilmington; 475-3686; but I've had hit-and-miss experiences there in the past.

I was a big Asian Palace fan, but it has long departed its former Independence Mall location. And Shanghai restaurant on Philadelphia Pike never reopened after its fire.

Readers? Other suggestions?

Reader Mail: UPDATE

Happy Friday.

It really feels like fall this morning. My plans this weekend are to make the Texas Brisket Chili. (See recipe below.) I'll also most likely be dining out. Haven't yet made my final plans - so I can't share yet - but I'll spill the details next week.

Was out with some friends last night at Catherine Rooney's in Trolley Square. Bottles of wine are half price on Thursdays. Good deal.

QUESTION: My wife and I have been getting Reuben sandwiches for lunch at Annie's Restaurant on Greenhill Avenue in Wilmington for years. Now that Annie's is gone, where do you recommend we go for our monthly Reuben fix? And please don’t say New York, I only get an hour for lunch!

Karl Lehman

Pike Creek

ANSWER: Karl, I tossed this question out to my fellow restaurant critic Eric Ruth and his two favorite places for a classic Reuben - layers of corned beef, Swiss cheese and sauerkraut - are Cosmos Restaurant, 316 Maryland Ave., Wilmington, 994-0920; or Ameritage Bistro, 900 N. Orange St., Wilmington, 427-2300; www.ameritagebistro.com.

UPDATE: I received several calls this morning that Annie's has relocated to Elsmere, near the fire station, and owners are remodeling their new place. They are hoping to be open within 10 days.

HERE'S ANOTHER ANNIE'S LETTER:

QUESTION: After reading your column, I thought something had happened. I just called Annie's - 888-1229 - and everything is fine. In the process of getting ready for the re-opening, they are looking at early November for their re-opening. I suggest you call so you can get the official word.

Could you please print something to correct this error.

Thank you,

Diane

ANSWER: Yup. It's done.

QUESTION: Dear Ms. Talorico,

If you have difficulty reading this request it is possibly because the screen is being covered with my saliva which I can not stop since reading the note concerning the Italian sauce that you printed on 10/15/08 in the News Journal.

I love good spaghetti and meatballs but have a problem in finding them. Either the sauce is not good or the meatballs are not full of flavor.I am wondering if you would be kind enough to fax me the recipe for the Italian sauce you wrote about?

Milan Felt, MD

ANSWER: Milan, the sauce I wrote about was the winning "gravy" made at the annual Vendemmia Italian wine and food festival last Sunday in Wilmington. Edea Barilo is the woman behind the sauce. Not sure if she has a recipe, per se, but I will contact Edea and see if she can jot something down.

Lunching at Longwood

Took a few hours off and spent part of the morning strolling Longwood Gardens with my sister Sue and best friend Steph.

It's so easy to forget we have one of the most spectacular gardens in the country right in our own backyard.

Cornucopias of pumpkins and gourds, along with plenty of chrysanthemums, salvias, and crotons will put you in autumn state of mind. Walking and admiring nature is one of the best ways to de-stress.

We stopped into Longwood's Terrace restaurant for lunch. The famed creamy mushroom soup ($6 a cup, $7 a bowl) was very good - the kitchen understands that creamy does NOT mean pasty - but I wasn't as thrilled with fall green salad ($8) of roasted beets, feta cheese, endive and watercress. Very skimpy on the beets - I was expecting chunks and instead got thin, little ribbons - and the watercress was slightly limp. Eh.

My sister got the crabmeat, crimini and scallion tart ($8) and our waitress warn us it was small. She didn't lie. It was, maybe, a three-bite meal. Steph made the best choice with a seared, five-spiced hamachi salad with avocado wasabi, ponzu sauce and mango sticky rice ($14.)

Longwood is good for looking, but lunching? I'd go somewhere else. Maybe stop in for a burger at Buckley's Tavern on Route 52 in Centreville or perhaps travel down U.S. 1 into Chadds Ford for one of the daily lunch specials at Hank's Place - one of Andrew Wyeth's favorite hangouts - or at the nearby, and very charming, Bistro on the Brandywine.

How about scrapple instead?

The Flyin' Hawaiian - aka Phillies centerfielder Shane Victorino - is getting some heat from PETA for expressing his love for Spam.

Seriously. (Spam is big in Hawaii.)

Maybe we should send him some of Bridgeville's own RAPA scrapple?

Chill out with Texas chili

My pal Nancy, a fabulous cook, recently made this Texas Beef Brisket Chili that was on the cover of the October issue of Bon Appetit magazine.

It's got a bit of heat - but don't be scared of the fire. It's not too overpowering. Ancho chiles are nothing more than dried poblano peppers.

I've been dreaming about this hearty, autumnal, non-bean chili ever since Nancy served it. The beef melts in your mouth. I'm making it this weekend.

The recipe is long, but it's worth the effort. (It actually tastes best if you make the chili one day ahead of time before serving - so it's a great company, one-pot dish.)

It makes 8 to 10 servings.

Texas Beef Brisket Chili

6 large dried ancho chiles *
6 ounces bacon, diced
1 1/4 pounds onions, chopped (about 4 cups)
1 5-pound flat-cut (also called first-cut) beef brisket, cut into 2 1/2- to 3-inch cubes
Coarse kosher salt
6 large garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 1/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
1 1/2 10-ounce cans fire-roasted diced tomatoes with green chiles (1 3/4 cups)
1 12-ounce bottle Mexican beer
1 7-ounce can diced roasted green chiles
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro stems
4 cups 1 1/2- to 2-inch chunks seeded peeled butternut squash (from 3 1/2-pound squash)

Garnishes:
Fresh cilantro leaves
Chopped red onion
Diced avocado
Shredded Monterey Jack cheese
Warm corn and/or flour tortillas

For the chili:
Place ancho chiles in a medium bowl. Pour enough boiling water over to cover. Soak until chiles soften, at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours.

Preheat oven to 350. Saute bacon in heavy large oven-proof pot over medium-high heat until beginning to brown. Add onions. Reduce heat to medium; cover and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle beef all over with coarse salt and pepper. Add to pot; stir to coat. Set aside.

Drain chiles, reserving soaking liquid. Place chiles in blender. Add 1 cup soaking liquid, garlic, chili powder, cumin seeds, oregano, coriander, and 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt; blend to puree, adding more soaking liquid by 1/4 cupfuls if very thick. Pour puree over brisket in pot. Add tomatoes with juices, beer, green chiles, and cilantro stems. Stir to coat evenly.

Bring chili to simmer. Cover and place in oven. Cook 2 hours. Uncover and cook until beef is almost tender, about 1 hour. Add squash; stir to coat. Roast uncovered until beef and squash are tender, adding more soaking liquid if needed to keep meat covered, about 45 minutes longer. Season chili to taste with salt and pepper. Tilt pot and spoon off any fat from surface of sauce.

DO AHEAD: Can be made 2 days ahead. Cool 1 hour. Chill uncovered until cold, then cover and keep chilled.

Set out garnishes in separate dishes. Rewarm chili over low heat. Ladle chili into bowls and serve.

*Ancho chilies are available at many supermarkets and at specialty foods stores and Latin markets.

On top of spaghetti...

It's best not to get into specifics when judging an Italian-American cooking contest.

Some refer to the blend of tomatoes, olive oil, spices and other ingredients that blanket a steaming hot plate of pasta simply as sauce. Others call it red gravy or Sunday gravy. Traditionalists insist on using the Italian words sugo or ragu.

According to Nancy Harmon Jenkins in her wonderful cookbook "Cucina del Sole" (William Morrow, 2007), when Italian Americans sing about sauce of their childhood that would sputter in a large pot on their mother or grandmother's stove, they are actually talking about ragu napoletano.

"There is no question that what a true Neapolitan craves first of all when returning home is spaghetti al ragu, a simple plate of pasta dressed with rich, meaty, tomatoey, spicy, fragrant sauce that is traditional for Sunday lunch in Naples and the surrounding countryside," Jenkins writes.

Ragu is something that makes Edea Barilo, of Bellevue Manor, nostalgic for her youth and brings back memories of her parents, now deceased.

The Brandywine Hundred resident grew up smelling and eating Sunday gravy and continues the tradition with her own family.

On Sunday at the annual Vendemmia Italian food and wine festival in Wilmington, Barilo's full-bodied sauce took top honors at the annual Gravy Contest.

"I love this event, and I almost fell over when they called my name. My mom was the best cook out there," says Barilo, whose parents, Ada and Francesco, emigrated from a small town near Naples, Italy. "I remember being a 5-year-old at the stove with my mom when she cooked."

This was the second year I was asked to judge the contest that took place at Tubman-Garrett Park on the Wilmington Riverfront.

Contestants were simply given numbers. Scores between one (worst) and 10 (best) were given for color; texture and thickness; aroma; seasonings; quality, quantity and taste of olive oil; garlic; and overall taste.

The devil is in the details and Barilo says the secret of her sauce is to have everything fresh. She starts by sauteing onions and garlic. From there, she makes her own braciola, the flattened beef that she spreads with a blend of flat-leaf parsley, garlic, salt and pepper, rolls up and then braises.

Sausage goes into the pan, followed by homemade meatballs made with a combination of ground veal, beef and pork. An added layer of flavor comes from the addition of sauteed country-style ribs.

Barilo's mother Ada always canned her own homegrown summer tomatoes. Her daughter does the same. But sometimes Barilo also uses cans of San Marzano tomatoes.

"I'll add the spices, salt, pepper and garlic. The parsley comes from my yard as do the bay leaves," she says. Fennel seed is also part of the mix. The preparation takes about an hour and Barilo slow-cooks the sauce for another 2 1/2 hours. "The whole house smells great."

Winning the contest, Barilo says, is "a tribute to my parents. I'm sure they're looking down and smiling."

JUST AN FYI: Edea was stationed at number 8. The second place winner was Nina Pellicone. She was stationed at number 5. Third place was Nicole Getty at number 10.

Reading material

No food recommendations this week, just some Web sites that are worth checking out.

The first is www.hollyeats.com where you can find reviews mainly of hot dogs. But if you dig around the extensive site, there are reviews of cheesesteaks and plenty of other fun foods. Some of the reviews are short, such as the ones for Deerhead (various locations) and The Dog House (DuPont Highway). But the site does hold both in high regard, with The Dog House snaring a four grease stain rating for "excellent," and Deerhead earning five grease stains, for "outstanding."

The "Eating Philadelphia" link at that site may help you find some places worth checking out the next time you pay a visit to the city, even something like "Hot Dog Truck at 24th & Passyunk." As for my last favorable Philly eating experience, the steak from Rick's that I had at a recent Phillies game was one of the best I've had in a while. Rick's also has a great Web site, unlike some of the other popular steak places up there. Check it out at www.rickssteaks.com to find out how the Philly concoction came to be, and be sure to try the site's fun tool about ordering instructions, if you were ever unsure about the guidelines.

Lastly, there's www.pizzamarketplace.com, a site geared toward people who run pizzerias. But there is still an interesting story or two to be found there once in a while, and if you ever want the scoop about the latest products the national chains will soon roll out, you'll likely found about them there first.

Great gravy!

I spent part of Sunday afternoon at the Vendemmia Italian wine and food fest at Tubman-Garrett Park on the Wilmington Riverfront.

It was a gorgeous, warm day and the park was packed with people seeking out glasses of Sangiovese, cups of tiramisu, pork sandwiches and plates of pasta.

Once again, I was asked to be a judge for the "gravy" contest along with Michael Waite from WJBR, John Conley of CW Harborside and Dr. Larry Giordano. After sampling 20 different tomato sauces, I thought I would be living on Tums the rest of the afternoon, but it wasn't so bad. (Though why does it always feel like a summer day when I have to taste 20 hot gravies? We joked about wishing we were judging a gelato contest.)

You would think that tomato sauces would all taste the same. Yet after the first few sips that proved not to be true.

Some were flavored with seafood; some were spicy and fiery; one, unfortunately, tasted burned and another tasted weirdly sweet.

Others were as thick as ketchup and one was as orange as a pumpkin.

I didn't know the names of any of the contestants - they were all given numbers.

But Mike DiFonzo, one of the event organizers, told me that Edea Barilo was the winner this year.

I'm going to give Edea a call and find out the secret of her winning sauce or, if you prefer, "gravy."

Stay tuned for an update.

Reader Mail

Web traffic went through the roof last week due to the Biden-Katie's saga - and kept us too busy to dive into the mailbag last week.

I still don't know if Joe meant to say Kozy's or Mrs. Robino's instead of Katie's? But, as I wrote earlier, it's time to get back to the politics of food.

Reader Mail returns, a day early, with plenty of queries, for your reading pleasure.


In Friday's 55 Hours section, Ryan Cormier brings his appetite to Johnnie's Dog House on Concord Pike and orders the Delaware Destroyer hot dog. What makes this dog a Delaware dog? Cormier has answers.

Also, for Friday's Taste column, my fellow restaurant critic Eric Ruth reports back about the new Rasa Sayang Malaysian Cuisine in the Independence Mall shopping Center on U.S. 202 in Brandywine Hundred.

Every Friday. You ask. We answer. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Here are your letters:

QUESTION: Greetings. What are your thoughts on the recently opened Pomodoro on Union Street in Wilmington? I had an absolutely wonderful dinner, the staff was very friendly. I couldn't decide what to have, so Chef Furio surprised me with red snapper which was just outstanding. We had a tuna and fresh mozzarella appetizer.

Debra Wooden


ANSWER: Debra, glad you had a good meal. I've had some up-and-down experiences at Ristorante Pomodoro Italiano, 729 N. Union St., Wilmington, 574-9800 which has been opened since April 2007. During my first visit, not long after they opened, the food wasn't at all bad - I had a fine porcini mushroom pasta dish - but the service was off.

Went for another meal with friends this past February and the service left a very bad taste in my mouth. So off-putting, in fact, I haven't had any desire to return. I hope there's been some changes. Maybe, it is time for a return visit.

QUESTION: Ms. Talorico, not sure whether to sing your praises or admonish you…. You took a perfectly wonderful secret [the Dumpling House at 1828 w. 11th St., Wilmington; 888-1828] and screamed it to Wilmington.
Yes, "Wimingtonians" are in desperate need of fresh, handmade, delectable treats that do not break the bank... But REALLY! We were having such a wonderful time with our secret handshakes and passwords.
In all honesty, it was a wonderful article that summed up the restaurant beautifully.
Kathleen Magner-Rios

ANSWER: Go ahead, Kathleen, blame the messenger. I knew crowing about the Dumpling House wouldn't endear me to its loyal patrons, but I can't help myself. It's my job.

QUESTION: Hi, I don't remember seeing any reviews of [North Star Grill], this fairly new restaurant in Middletown, but I would very much like to see you come, and try it out. It has a combination pub and family atmosphere, but the food is what keeps us coming back - all fresh made, with many gourmet style touches, yet with Applebee's style prices. The fried cheesecake dessert is fantastic. We believe North Star is a real gem , and would greatly enjoy seeing it get some much -deserved exposure. I have no connection with the restaurant other than being a very impressed customer, who wants this restaurant to do well, so that we can continue coming here for many years to come.

Highest Regards,
Steve Hance

ANSWER: Fried cheesecake? Really? Looks like I'm making a trip to Middletown very soon.

QUESTION: Oh, my!! How awesome it was to read your article [on Sept. 17 about Slovenian cuisine.] I am 100 PERCENT Slovene. I may not be a famous Slovene (as Trump's 3rd wife), but I am a local. I live in Landenberg, Pa., with my husband and six childern. My parents are both from the old country, although they met an married here. Many of my fondest memories are from Slovenia, both from childhood as well as an adult. I spent many a summer there growing up, and my husband and I honeymooned there with my relatives. I struggle, but I try to teach my children Slovenian. And we continue many of our traditions.

Zlikrofi was such a treat for me. My grandmother would make them for us if we but asked. It is rather time consuming, though, to make with a large family, so I admit that I can't make them. I remember when I tried to knead the dough, and she said I was doing it wrong and went behind me to guide my hands and "teach" me how to press down with the heals of my hands. Thanks for the memories!

I would love to hear of your travels there. I do hope that you had a WONDERFUL trip. Also, you are right. There are not many of us around. If you've met any other Slovenes here in the area and they are up to meeting fellow Slovenes, let me know.

Again, thank you so much for your great pick-me-up this morning.

Gabrielle Mejac Dawyot

ANSWER: Thanks Gabrielle. I enjoyed traveling around Slovenia last fall and especially loved staying at the Kenda Manor. I want a plate of zlikrofi - potato and bacon dumplings - right now.

QUESTION: Hi Pat, was wondering if you could help us out with something.

I see that a lot of La Toltecas in the area have changed their name to La Tolnateca. However, I passed a new La Tolteca in the Fox Run Shopping Center today and there was a sign posted saying something like "Don't Be Fooled, We Would Never Change Our Name."

But last time we ate at La Tolnateca, they said they used to be La Tolteca but just changed their name.

Help!


ANSWER: I have no idea what's going on here. And the web site doesn't help since it lists both names. Eric Ruth wrote a story about the strange name change in July 2007. According to his article, owners of Delaware's La Tolteca empire were "rebranding their nine restaurants as 'La Tonalteca' in an effort to set themselves apart from all the unrelated restaurants named La Toltecas scattered around the country."

Ruth wrote: "It's a move that's generating some criticism, some confusion, and some predictions that a name change won't hurt these landmark Mexican restaurants a bit."

But not everyone was impressed with the switcheroo.

Restaurant marketing specialist Joel Cohen of RestaurantMarketing.com said that customers will encounter a new name that's somewhat close to the original, but still too odd to be effective.

"That's a lousy name," Cohen told The News Journal. "Both of them are bad names, because you can't remember them, you can't spell them."