Sad day for journalism

The Rocky Mountain News has published its last edition.

The video about the newspaper's closing is heartbreaking. Investigative reporter Laura Frank, who is featured in the video, was once a guest speaker at the (now defunct) Wilmington Writers Workshop.

Reader Mail

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young, compassionate with the aged, sympathetic with the striving and tolerant with the weak and strong.
Because someday in your life you will have been all of these."

- George Washington Carver

Reader Mail is coming at ya' early this week.

The Feb. 12 edition of Reader Mail stirred up strong emotions and generated plenty of feedback. It's been interesting, to say the least. Much of today's mailbag deals with two letters from that day. Any discussion about food can turn passionate, especially among passionate food lovers. Wonderful. Delightful. That's exactly what Second Helpings is all about.

I appreciate all your emails - send questions to me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com I try to answer every one that comes my way.

To paraphrase Evelyn Beatrice Hall: I will always defend the right to free speech - and bravo to those who use their real names on comments and emails - but that doesn't mean I have to agree with what you're saying. If I believe that clarity is needed after an email or post, then I'm going to step in - with no apologies. And if you think there's a great undiscovered eatery out there - please tell us about that place.

Finally, let's agree that we can disagree and still have lively debates with respect, intelligence and, hopefully, humor.

Onto the mailbag:

'KEEP THE BLOG FOR YOURSELF'

QUESTION: Dear Patricia, I am responding to your comment about my email. [See Feb. 12 Reader Mail (second letter).]

First of all, the new restaurant [Capers & Lemons] opened Monday night for a "slow dinner."

Second, maybe, Jamie, she is right. [See Feb. 12 Reader Mail, first letter.] I thought this blog was to express our opinion about restaurant, but if we have to be judged or criticized, I really think you should keep the blog for yourself. As far as good restaurant and my favorite one, that is your job to really rediscovered them and remind people that good and authentic food can be found in small and not so sophisticated places too.

You really need to be fair and even with all of our eatery, and the most important part is that you do not need to attack people if their opinions are different than yours, and try to convince them otherwise.

I really thought that this blog was useful, but it really isn't and I will never post anymore comment!! What a shame!!

Stacey Spencer

ANSWER: Stacey, I don't think I was being critical of you nor judgmental. I don't, however, happen to agree with your assessment of Capers & Lemons. We quite obviously had different experiences.

Second Helpings is a forum to discuss restaurants and those experiences. Restaurants thrive on word of mouth. I think you're missing a wonderful opportunity to share with me - and other News Journal and delawareonline.com readers - the restaurants that you like, and to write about why you like them so much. Owners always appreciate it when loyal customers sing their praises.

According to the National Restaurant Association, there were more than 1,700 eating and drinking places in Delaware as of 2007. (The latest figures available.) I honestly have no idea which restaurants you are referring to.

I'm looking forward to your reply.

TWELVES GRILL IMPRESSES

QUESTION: Hello Mme. Talorico: Just a quick note to thank you on your review of Twelves Grill & Cafe. My fiance and I went there last night for dinner and it was truly outstanding. As we both agreed, it is basic American fare but done incredibly well. I caught myself comparing it to Kimberton (Pa.) Inn which is probably my favorite (and pricey) restaurant in the region.

Twelves was complete redemption from the rather terrible meal we had at Fair Hill Inn the week before Valentine's Day. We went to avoid the crowds for the Hallmark holiday and the restaurant did not impress. Twelves was quite a bit less expensive with delicious and well-executed offerings and without a reserve wine list only affordable to those business executives who got outrageous bonuses recently. Then I wonder, was it that good because my birthday is January 12? No, it was just THAT good.

Thank you for the introduction to this restaurant. We will be returning. All the best! And for those who insult you, they have NO IDEA what it takes to do your job. Chalk it up to complete and total ignorance.
Heather Baker

ANSWER: Thanks Heather. Glad to hear you enjoyed Twelves. I'm not sure what happened at Fair Hill Inn, but I hope you shared your concerns with the owners. In my experience, Phil Pyle and Brian Shaw, who run Fair Hill, work hard to please customers and would want to know what went wrong.

LET'S SHARE RESTAURANT FINDS (AND WE DON'T MEAN OLIVE GARDEN)

QUESTION: Hi, Patricia, I want to tell you how much I appreciate the valuable information you and Eric [Ruth] provide on area dining - creative/mouth-watering writing, knowledgeable of food prep and ingredients, and holding restaurants accountable for quality food and service.

The blog also is balanced for allowing readers to share their restaurant finds. However, I found the recent snotty e-mail from that Jamie Campbell person insulting and ignorant. I'm glad you called her on her out-of- line comments. While I realize you have a passion and great knowledge of what you do, I was impressed with your awards and education.

Thanks for elevating the tastes of some narrow-minded diners to try beyond Olive Garden. Have a great day and keep up the great critiques.


Lisa
P.S. - one of my new favorites is Rasa Sayang [Malaysian Cuisine.]

ANSWER: Thanks Lisa. I also think Rasa Sayang is worth a look.

GOOD ITALIAN NEAR NEWARK

QUESTION: Pat, Just wanted to say how grateful the rest of us are that you are out there doing the taste testing! My husband and I are huge food connoisseurs! We are always looking for new places to try and always appreciate someone's honest take on a restaurant.

I think the rude emails that were posted are completely out of line. If they had a different experience than you did, by all means they have a right to speak up and let folks know. However, I think they need to keep their witty little remarks to themselves.

Thank you again for lending your experience to our area and reviewing these eateries! Is there any chance you'll have some short cut links along the side of your page that will direct us to your past restaurant reviews? That would be most helpful.

Oh, and if you haven't tried the little Italian place on the corner of Paper Mill and Possum Park roads? I can't remember the name of it, but they have terrific everything there. Very reasonable too!

And please (we need all the help we can get in Middletown), if you haven't already, have a bite to eat at Middletown Seafood where the old Whitherspoon Inn was at the 4 corners. Supposed to be good, but we haven't made it there yet.

Keep up the great work! And thank you.

Rebecca Saxton

ANSWER: Hi Rebecca. Changes are coming soon to Second Helpings and links to past restaurant reviews are certainly part of our plans. I wonder if the place at Paper Mill and Possum Park roads is Tony's Cafe? I have only had take-out pizza from Tony's which was OK, but I found it didn't travel well and tasted soggy by the time I got it home. But it sounds like I need to have another look at their offerings as well as Middletown Seafood.

'BLUNT' IN NEED OF A GOOD MEAL?

QUESTION: Hi Patricia, I just want to say that "Sorry to be blunt" was the rudest "person" ever. I think you do a great job. I look forward to your columns every week. I'm a huge Food Network fan and think you're right up there with them. "Blunt" apparently needs to get some good food. You had an awesome comeback, I must say.

Congrats!
Shannon O'Connell

ANSWER: Thanks for the kind words, Shannon.

MEXICAN FOOD AND MAZZELLA'S

QUESTION: Hi Patricia, My name is Charlie Smutz (Smoots). I was reading your answers to some posts and totally agree with you about El Tapatio Mexican Restaurant. We went there two years ago over Christmas break. We were pleasantly surprised by both the price and taste. I love their beans. And with a family the low prices are awesome. I can't believe a critic and I agree about a restaurant.

Have you ever been to Mazzella's [Italian Restaurant] in Penny Hill? Awesome.


Regards,

Charlie

ANSWER: Charlie, I'm always on the look-out for other good Mexican restaurants. Tried to go to Agave Mexican Grill & Tequila Bar in Lewes this past weekend, but it was closed for the season. Drat! I haven't yet been to Mazzella's, but I have heard good reports.


THE PIE IS GREAT, BUT THE TRES LECHES TAKES THE CAKE

QUESTION: Ms. Talorico, I enjoyed your review of Pizza by Elizabeths. I went there recently and enjoyed a great salad, pizza, and best of all dessert! I was surprised that you did not mention any desserts. I had a wonderful tres leches cake!

If you haven't had the pleasure, I would highly recommend this dessert. I believe it is available the first week of every month.

Enjoy, and congratulations on all of your well-written reviews!

Nancy DiMenco

ANSWER: Nancy, thanks for the heads up. I enjoy a creamy tres leches cake and always thought Avila's Bakery on Lancaster Avenue in Wilmington did a nice job with this confection, also known as "three milks" cake. I didn't mention it in the review, but I also love the free toffee that Elizabeths gives you with the bill. It's a sweet ending - and makes settling up a little easier.


VINCENTE'S WEB SITE IS UP AND RUNNING

QUESTION: Hello Patricia, this is Vincente's son Daniel, the executive chef. If you would like to pass on information to your readers, they can stay up to date [on our new restaurant] by checking out our website at www.vincentesrestaurant.com. I will be posting updates on the site as soon as we know more about the opening date. I hope this helps you and your readers out.

Thank you very much,

Daniel Mancari

ANSWER: Thanks, Daniel. Vincente's fans, you now have a web site to visit.

"Top Chef" Carla serves up chat stew: FINALE UPDATE

Carla, or Beaker, as we like to call her here at Second Helpings, spills some "Top Chef" secrets in a Washington Post chat.

Tonight's the finale. Sigh. No more crazy eye-popping from our favorite muppet.

Will Beaker be the Queen (Aunt) Bea of the kitchen?

FINALE UPDATE: I'm underwhelmed and slightly disappointed...The best part of this episode was the return of past contestants Richard, Casey and Marcel to work with the Final Three as sous chefs.

Carla proves to be a follower (of sous-chef Casey, who gets her off her game with a lame, and tough, sous-vide beef dish) rather than a leader. The "Top Chef" win slips out of her hands.

It's now a Battle of the Baldies.

I'm distracted for part of this episode by the red sore or pimple on Stefan's head. Also, what the heck was he thinking with that goofy ice cream and lollipop last course that doesn't win over many tastebuds? Darn, no molecular gastronomy techniques from his sous Marcel, who looked like a complete moron walking into the New Orleans courtyard wearing oversize aviator sunglasses. (And, whoa! did Stefan really call Marcel a four-letter vulgarity that I'm not going repeat here?? How did that NOT get edited out?)

But who knew that this season's cockiest chef could be such a Mister Softee? It was touching when Stefan comforted and hugged the teary-eyed Carla. I knew I liked Stefan.

So the win goes to....... a very smug Hosea, who very weirdly congratulates himself in the third person. Yeah. Whatever.

Like I said, underwhelming.

I hope next week's reunion special is more interesting.

Sussex County eats and updates

Spent the past weekend in Lewes and Rehoboth Beach and RB wasn't exactly slower Delaware on Saturday afternoon.

There were plenty of people strolling Rehoboth Avenue and a parking spot on the main thoroughfare wasn't that easy to come by. I sat in the Cafe A Go-Go coffeeshop with my cafe au lait and laptop and was amazed at how many people were about and out.

The Chefs Showdown at CAMP Rehoboth was a very cool event. Chefs Jay Caputo (Espuma, Porcini House), Kevin Reading (Nage) and Ian Crandall (Kindle, Half Full) are pros who make cooking look easy. They had to saute on hot-plates - which are better suited for food demonstrations in grocery stores rather than culinary competitions - but still produced some impressive dishes.

Some things I noticed (some of which are covered in today's Diners Digest column):

Second fire at Irish Eyes in Lewes on New Year's Eve was devastating. Went to take a look at the restaurant and all that remains now is a few supporting walls and the foundation. This is so sad, especially since the web site has photos of the restaurant when it was rebuilt after the 2007 fire.

- Stopped into Stingray's in Rehoboth for sake. It's a gorgeous place - love the framed pictures of Ultraman! (Nice touch Darius.) On a cold Saturday night, there were few diners during my visit - and that's a big building. We drove around and not too many restaurant dining rooms were filled. (What happened to all those people from the afternoon?)

- The place that was jumping was Dos Locos. We had to wait 20 minutes for a table. The Mardi Gras vibe was strong - beads galore, Cajun specials on the menu and an Elton John wannabe - wearing oversize glasses circa John's "Captain Fantastic and the Brown Dirt Cowboy" period - performing in the lounge. Guacamole was great. I got the fish tacos and could have done without the melted cheese on my battered cod. A dining companion ordered grilled catfish, a much better choice. I've had better meals there.

- We almost went to the Crystal Restaurant in Rehoboth for breakfast. (One of the best places in Delaware for breakfast, in my humble opinion.) But then we saw that Blue Plate Diner in Lewes was open. I love this place. Service is always great and the blueberry pancakes never fail to please. My buddies enjoyed a crab omelet and eggs Benedict.

- Hey, when did Saketumi open? It's a sushi place on Del. 1 that's where the old Ann Marie's used to be. I must have missed it this past summer.

- Kindle restaurant is moving from its location in Paynter's Mill, off Del. 1 near Milton, to a spot in downtown Lewes. Ian Crandall, one of Kindle's owners, says he had an "awesome opportunity" to move the 2-year-old restaurant to the space currently occupied by Books by the Bay, off Second and Bank streets. The Books by the Bay cafe has been a popular Lewes breakfast and lunch spot.

The move puts Crandall near his other Lewes eateries. He is part of the team that owns Striper Bites Bistro, 107 Savannah Road, and Half Full, the cozy pizza and wine bar at 113 Market St. Both are a few blocks from Books by the Bay. The last night of business for Kindle in the Milton location will be this Saturday. Crandall says Kindle will keep the same menu items – and will start serving lunch.

The Lewes space will have about 20 fewer seats, he says. The restaurant should reopen in April.

- Nourish Specialty Foods & Catering opened about two weeks ago in the Rehoboth Beach space that was formerly home to Beautiful Foods.

The gourmet foods store is at 37385 Henlopen Junction. The space has been completely renovated, and owners are now offering sliced meats, cheeses and other gourmet foods. (This past weekend, I picked up a tasty and vinegary black bean dip, punched up with fresh cilantro, and some homemade tortilla chips.)

Catering should begin later this spring. Call 227-6282 or visit www.anourishingidea.com

- Lily Thai Restaurant & Cocktail Bar recently opened at 10 N. First St., Rehoboth. The menu includes noodle and fried rice dishes, curries, and offerings for vegetarians and children. Call 227-3348.

- Pop Pop's Donuts, 4 W. First St., Rehoboth, 226-2266, is coming soon. The shop is next to Nicola Pizza.

Where's Regular Guy Grub?

Hey all. Hope you had a good weekend. Talorico here. I've been out and about in Sussex County and have plenty of food news to report.

More posts are coming soon, so please check back.

But, first, you may be wondering: Where is today's Regular Guy Grub post?

I'm sorry to say that Buddy Hurlock is bowing out as one of our regular casual foods contributors.

Buddy, a News Journal sportswriter who covers high school sports and the Blue Rocks, has a demanding schedule coming up. He says he won't have time to devote to his weekly Regular Guy postings.

Buddy started Regular Guy Grub posts in June 2008 - just about the same time we relaunched the Friday Taste column and eliminated star ratings from the restaurants reviews. (Eric Ruth and I now give eateries a fork up, fork down or sideways fork.)

Buddy's search for everything from Herr's Corn Chips to the state's best pizza to Bruce Willis's favorite cheesesteak has been entertaining and informative.

He says he will return occasionally to ponder more about Delaware pizza and perhaps give a round-up of the best ballpark eats. I hope so.

But we do have some "regular guys" waiting in the wings.

And, there is much more planned for the casual foods beat that I hope you will enjoy. Second Helpings also will be getting a new look very soon.

Sorry I can't share more, but I will as soon as all the details are ironed out.

What's up.......

Check out Ryan Cormier's fun story today on "The Wrestler" and other Oscar-nominated movies with Delaware shout-outs.

Food angle: Jeff Cook and Tom Craft, owners of the 2 Fat Guys American Grill in Hockessin, catered the set of "The Wrestler" for four days.

A few years ago, NJ photog Jennifer Corbett and I hung out with the "Fat Guys" while they catered and appeared in Bon Jovi's video "Who Says You Can't Go Home."

It was a long day in a very gritty North Philadelphia neighborhood, but Cook and Craft were so much fun to be with. The funniest part of that day was when they were cooking hamburgers and hotdogs for an outdoor barbecue scene. Bon Jovi drummer Tico Torres came over to the grill to steal a few dogs. We all talked to Torres for quite a while and didn't realize who he was - until he took his place behind the drum set when the video began filming.

I remember standing next to DJ Pierre Robert from WMMR and watching Jon Bon Jovi and Richie Sambora lip-sync the lyrics and basically do air guitar moves. Surreal.

In other food news:

For today's Taste column, I take a look at the new location for Pizza by Elizabeths. The Elizabeths, a Delaware biz for 15 years, recently packed up and moved new location in Greenville Center. Their new eatery - just a few blocks down the road from their former Kennett Pike space - is all swanky glamour. But, most importantly, the pizza still rocks.

And Cormier continues to be one busy guy - for today's 55 Hours cover story, he traveled to Saint Georges Country Store to tell you about "Cajun on the Canal."

My favorite line is his description of Saint Georges Country Store in St. Georges as " equal parts Mayberry General Store from 'The Andy Griffith Show' and Merlotte's bar and restaurant from HBO's Louisiana-based 'True Blood.'"

I'm headed to Rehoboth Beach this weekend to check out the Mardi Gras celebration and the Inaugural Chef Showdown: A culinary competition featuring Jay Caputo (Espuma, Porcini House); Ian Crandall (Kindle); and Kevin Reading (Nage).

More to come on that next week.

Burger madness

A recent New York Times blog item written by Florence Fabricant quoted a restaurateur who claims that the hunger for burgers helped kill her business.

In a sign of the times - maybe? - Le Bec-Fin is now offering burgers and fries.

Now that I think about it, I've been seeing more burgers on menus than ever before.

Blue Pear Bistro has a cheeseburger ($11); Moro has a 10-ounce Kobe burger ($22); lunch menu at the new Capers & Lemons has a burger with sundried tomato pesto ($11); Kindle, near Lewes, has a ground beef tenderloin burger ($14); and Pizza by Elizabeths has little sliders called Lizzie's Minis ($11.25.)

Top Chef recap

Sneaky, sneaky.

Those "Top Chef" producers threw us a curve ball by bringing back the last three kicked-off contestants - Leah, Jamie and Jeff - for a get-back-in-the-game challenge judged by the understated, low-key Mr. Lagasse.

(He's been in a catch phrase recovery program for some time and it's seems to be working. Not once did he scream "Bam!" Someone give Emeril a gold coin.)


But wasn't it strange, and awkward, that the Final Four had to sit and watch the other three cook a Cajun-Creole inspired dish with crawfish? And didn't everyone looked cold sitting on a picnic bench drinking what looked like a pitcher of beer? (Kind of a low rent moment. Did Padma, Tom and Emeril lock them out of the mansion?)


Cracked me up that right after the judges tasted Leah's crawfish soup, she started chugging a beer. Woo-hoo, way to get into the Mardi Gras spirit, Leah!


Jamie's corn cake, collard greens and crawfish looked good, but Southern-born Jeff scores with grits and crawfish and gets a second chance.

Elimination Challenge was one for the brave - make two Creole dishes and a cocktail for a New Orleans krewe. (No one is harsher than the locals when it comes to hometown eats.)

It immediately reminded me of a cookbook by Louisiana author Marcelle Bienvenu: "Who's Your Mama, Are You Catholic & Can You Make a Roux?"


Have you ever tried to make a good, dark roux? There's a delicate balance between dark and rich and burned. Lots of stirring going on and you have to be careful of splattering. Get some on your skin and you'll find out real fast why Louisiana chefs call it Cajun napalm.

If you're looking for New Orleans-style cuisine locally, check out Cajun Kate's or Saint George's Country Store.



Most of the chefs stepped up to the plate, but Stefan's cocky act has grown more stale than a three-day old beignet. I want to play poker with Chef Tom Colicchio because he's not one to hide his emotions. Colicchio might want to see an ophthalmologist after all the eye-rolling going on while he was listening to Stefan - or should we call him Old Smoky, given the amount of cigarette breaks he took this episode? - explain that he doesn't care that roux in his gumbo wasn't dark enough.

But the Battle of the Baldies continues - Stefan stays and so does Hosea (who you know so wants to clock Stefan.) Hosea's menu - duck andouille and chicken gumbo, pecan-crusted catfish and a hurricane with Grand Marnier and rum - was the one I would want to eat first.

Jeff's good looks earned him plenty of beads (and maybe a few flashes?), but his mojito and oysters weren't enough to win this one. Bye-bye (again) Blonde Guy.

Fabio - whose car is like "poo" just in case you missed that line -fails to impress with homemade pasta and maque-choux. (And, hmmmm, just what is a bell pepper martini anyway?) The European Union is split when Mr. Charming Accent Guy can't spin a plate of spaghetti and has to say "Ciao." And for that, I'm truly sorry. But I don't think we've seen the last of Fabio. He's way too entertaining. And he's William Shatner's personal chef.

The not-so big surprise of the night is that Carla - Carla! - gets a big ole "hootie hoo" from the judges. She takes home the car and earns the No. 1 spot for her oyster stew, beignets and alcohol-free beverages.

Only one episode left. Is it Beaker's game to lose?

Laissez Les Bon Temps Roulez.

Free food

Who doesn't love free?

There's just one catch - you have to don a pair of pajamas before picking up a free half-pint this Friday at Sweet Lucy's Ice Cream & Treats. The Talleyville shop at 3201 Concord Pike is holding its second annual Pajama Party from 6-9 p.m. Customers who wear pajamas will receive a free half-pint of ice cream. Owners say that if they run out of ice cream, they will offer free coupons for half pints that customers can redeem at a later date. Call 477-0777 or visit http://www.sweetlucysicecream.com/.

Feeling lucky?

Five times a week, Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant will pick up a lunch or dinner tab for one table of guests. The promotion at all Iron Hill locations, including the Wilmington and Newark sites, is the chain's own "Economic Stimulus Package." It runs through the end of the month.

Generally, restaurant managers will randomly select a table, sometimes by table number, to receive a "bailout" - meaning that Iron Hill will comp the food and drinks. (Just an FYI, the freebie doesn't mean the gratuity is on the house. Don't forget to tip your server.)

However, last weekend in Newark, a server overheard patrons discussing about how they had just been laid off and that it would be their last "luxury" meal for a long time. The server told a manager, who then "bailed out" the table.

According to an Iron Hill spokeswoman, the customers became teary-eyed and hugged the manager.

Everyone all together now: Awwwwwww!

"People are watching their wallets now more than ever, so the least we can do is reward a lucky few with a great meal on us," says Kevin Davies, Iron Hill's director of culinary operations. "This is a lighthearted gesture that we hope will make people smile in these trying times."

Visit http://www.ironhillbrewery.com/.

"Top Chef" Big Easy smackdown: Who will be the Final Two?

I don't know about you, but I'm looking forward to tonight's "Top Chef." The final four cheftestants are heading to the Big Easy (or will this be the Big Queasy?) and the guest judge - who will send two chefs packing - is Emeril Lagasse.

UPDATE: HERE ARE SOME NEW ORLEANS RECIPES FROM TODAY'S STORY INCLUDING LAGASSE'S SHRIMP ETOUFFEE.

Lagasse has gotten a bad rap in the culinary world. And it's mostly due to his old Food Network series "Emeril Live." For sure, it was cartoonish, hard to watch TV with way too much garlic flinging, camera mugging and overused taglines like "Pork Fat Rules" and "Let's Kick It Up a Notch."

It's unfortunate because I've interviewed Lagasse often over the past 12 years, visited the "Emeril Live" set twice and eaten at his New Orleans restaurants. (One of the best meals of my life - with the best service - was at Emeril's flagship eatery in New Orleans' Warehouse District.)

Lagasse's a nice man, down-to-earth with a great sense of humor, and is extremely knowledgeable about food and wine. What I've always liked about Emeril is that he looks you in the eye when he talks - you have his complete attention - and he seems geninuely interested in what you have to say. Now, this isn't saved for members of the press. I've seen him do it with fans and others. What can I say? I like the off-camera Emeril. Haven't yet seen his new series "Emeril Green."

The photo above, and the one to the right, was taken last year at "Emeril Live" in New York when photographer Suchat Pederson and I were doing a story on Masaharu Morimoto. He was a guest on one of the last "Emeril Live" episodes

Second Helpings reader Katie sent me an email:

"If you have time today, I think that it would be great for you to post a little something about 'Top Chef' in advance of tonight's semifinal."

"I challenge you to pick the winner today (OK, Stefan, that was easy) ... hmm, how about placing the final four in the order you think they'll finish?"

Katie's picks:

4th - Hosea

3rd - Beaker/Carla (love her but in what universe was she a model?)

2nd - Fabio

1st - Stefan.

"I could see Stefan choking under intense weight of his own ego, in which case I give it to Fabio," she writes.

Good choices. I have no idea how this season is going to play out. I'm gunning for Stefan - I think he's shown the best cooking chops so far - and who doesn't love the always charming Fabio?

But I think there's going to be an upset.....

My picks:

4th - Fabio (sorry, my Italian friend!)

3rd - Hosea

2nd - Stefan

1st - Carla

Let's hear what you have to say. Comment, comment, comment.

Regular Guy Grub ponderings

Some quick hits today, as I have to be at the state wrestling tournament...

> Dom's Pizza in Newport has introduced a white pizza topped with hot dog slices and french fries. One would think I could not resist a hot dog and pizza combination, but I have yet to try it, and I probably won't, since I usually do not like white pizza (no tomato sauce). What are some odd pizza toppings you have seen out there?

> 7up has introduced a Cherry 7up "with antioxidant," as it seems like every drink label loves to tout antioxidants, now. Anyway, this wasn't that great a cherry soda. My favorite cherry sodas are those served by Charcoal Pit and Deerhead Hot Dogs, which of course use real cherry syrup.

> I've been back to Burger King recently, to again get the "Burger Shots," so I must really like them. But for the second time, not one napkin via the drive-thru. C'mon, now. Can't ya put one napkin in there?

V-Day dining

There are two times of the year when I absolutely will NOT go out to dinner: Valentine's Day and New Year's Eve.

Let's just call it amateur night, shall we.

OK, so maybe I'm being way too harsh, but I want to enjoy a restaurant and what the kitchen has to offer.

These two holidays - and, I'll also throw in Mother's Day - are way too crowded and there's often a set menu that I usually don't have much interest in ordering from.

Saturday night, with some of my favorite people, I quite happily enjoyed pasta puttanesca, Mark Bittman's chocolate souffle and some other goodies, along with Schramsberg Mirabelle sparkling wine.

It was a great night.

Where did you go? How was dinner?

Del. culinary pros are James Beard Foundation semifinalists

Restaurant, chef and beverage semifinalists for the 2009 James Beard Foundation Awards, the nation's most prestigious honors for culinary professionals, were announced today.


The "long" list - which will be pared down before the final ballot - now includes several Delaware names.




Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head in Milton, is up for OUTSTANDING WINE AND SPIRITS PROFESSIONAL







Semi-finalists for BEST CHEF: MID-ATLANTIC include:






Jay Caputo of Espuma and Porcini House in Rehoboth Beach, (in the photo to the right)



and Michael DiBianca of Moro in Wilmington (photo below)









St. Mark's High School graduate and former Delaware resident Tom Douglas of Dahlia Lounge, Palace Kitchen, Etta's, Lola, Serious Pie, and Dahlia Bakery in Seattle is a semifinalist for OUTSTANDING RESTAURATEUR


The prestigious group of semifinalists in the 19 Restaurant and Chef categories were selected from thousands of online entries and represent a wide variety of culinary talent, from legendary chefs and dining destinations in 10 different regions across the United States, to the nation's best new restaurants and rising star chefs.


On March 23, the James Beard Foundation will announce the final nominees during an invitation-only breakfast at JBF Award winning chef Rick Bayless' highly-acclaimed Frontera Grill restaurant in Chicago. This is the first time the event has taken place outside of the Foundation's New York City home.


There will be five finalists in each category, narrowed down from the list of semifinalists by a panel of more than 400 judges.

Winners will be announced on May 4 at the Awards Ceremony and Gala Reception, the annual celebration taking place at Avery Fisher Hall at Lincoln Center in New York City.

The complete list is now available on www.jamesbeard.org/awards.

Reader mail: UPDATED

My plate is very full today and Friday, so I'm posting Reader Mail early this week.

Remember : Every Friday (and sometimes earlier) is Reader Mail. You ask. We answer. Keep the questions coming. Send them to me at ptalorico@delawareoline.com.

On Friday, Eric Ruth's Taste column looks at Floga Bistro, 826 E. Baltimore Pike (U.S. 1), Marlborough Square Shopping Center, Kennett Square, Pa. (near Genuardi's). (610) 444-6500. www.FlogaBistro.com.

UPDATE: Here's the link to the column about this BYOB.

Onto the letters:

'SORRY TO BE BLUNT'

QUESTION: Patricia, You have an incredible opportunity to showcase some of the greater restaurants around New Castle County and yet you repeatedly miss the mark. Is your research flawed or has Gannett overfunded your ignorance? Sorry to be so blunt, but I just don't understand how you can pontificate without credentials. You must spend too much time with Eric Ruth. I am sure you've heard this before. An even playing field is all we ask.

Jamie Campbell

ANSWER: Readers, a couple of points I'd like to make:

I'm all for frank, open discussions and freely sharing opinions. And I don't mind someone being blunt.

But I have to draw the line on insults and rudeness.

Jamie, since you provided your phone number on the email you sent me - which I have not posted on this blog - I called and left you a message. You haven't returned my phone call.

You have said I "repeatedly miss the mark" to showcase "some of the greater restaurants around New Castle County."

Yet you haven't told me what those restaurants are - in your opinion.

Regular NJ and delawareonline.com readers know that Eric Ruth and I often write about New Castle County restaurants. In fact, the day that I received your email there was an article by me about the opening of the new Capers & Lemons restaurant and Stone Balloon Winehouse, both in New Castle County.

I also wrote an article the same day about Liz Marden's Gourmet Cake & Dessert Shop that is in - wait for it, wait for it - New Castle County.

You have accused me of pontificating "without credentials." (News flash: Restaurant critics are paid to share their opinions. But let's let the Pontiff pontificate.)

Well, I'll be happy to share my credentials: I've written about food, wine, chefs, cookbook authors and restaurants for more than a decade for such publications as The Washington Post, USA Today and Bon Appetit. I have been lucky enough to interview everyone from Julia Child to Jacques Pepin to Lidia Bastianich to Mario Batali to Jose Garces to Emeril Lagasse - I could go on and on - sometimes I've even shared the kitchen with them as they worked. I have attended cooking classes at the French Culinary Institute in New York, and cooking and wine classes in Philadelphia, Chicago, Rome, Florence, London and Slovenia, among other places.

I have worked in both the front and back of the house in restaurants and I'm currently the "Adventures in Eating" columnist for USA Today's Open Air magazine. (Check out the spring and summer issues for my upcoming articles.)

Oh, I've also been twice recognized by the James Beard Foundation for best newspaper food writing, but lost the award to Marian Burros and Kim Severson, both writers at The New York Times. And, yes, it really has been an honor to be nominated since this is considered the most prestigious culinary organization in the country.

And, finally, no, I don't actually spend enough time with Eric Ruth.

But I wish I did.

He's loads of fun.

DISHING ABOUT CAPERS & LEMONS

QUESTION: Dear Patricia,
I have been to the new restaurant Capers & Lemons, and it was a total disappointment. Menu is very small, looks like a copy cat from [a?] local restaurant and it is way overpriced. Come on, a Margherita pizza for $11? That is too much. We know how small the expense of making a pizza is. Oh, by the way, the oven is not wood fire, it is a gas. A chicken piccata dish is $13 for lunch. Oh, I almost forgot a house salad for $6 way up there. The food was OK, nothing great, kind of bland. It seems like all the sauces had the same flavor.

The restaurant is nice, fresh and simple, but I did not like the fact that servers were wearing short sleeves shirt....I do not want to see my waiter's hairy arms!!

Sometimes we get all excited about new places way too much, and we forget that there are landmark restaurants that they have been around for years offering authentic cuisine without being so sophisticated and high end.

I wish them all the luck in this bad economy, but I will stick to my favorite restaurant.

Stacey Spencer

ANSWER: Just an FYI, Capers & Lemons opened Tuesday. I received Stacey's email at 9:10 a.m. Wednesday. Wow! Patrons aren't wasting anytime when it comes to checking out new restaurants!

I will have to say that every new restaurant has kinks to work out, especially one that has been in business for only one day. Just so we're clear, in my earlier post about C&L, I said the oven was wood stone, not wood fire. Wood Stone - which is clearly printed on the menus - is a line of commerical cooking equipment used by Carrabba's, California Pizza Kitchen, Wolfgang Puck and others.

I had a "first look" dinner Wednesday night at C&L and my opinion is quite different than Stacey's.

I certainly wouldn't call a lunch menu with at least 40 items "small." A house salad at Kid Shelleen's is $6.95 - and as I checked other menus - that seems to be the going rate. Gourmet-style pizzas always tend to be priced higher than those at pizza parlors. The crust here is quite good.

Also, I had a wonderful meal - as did my two companions. The restaurant seems to be very strong out of the gate.

Portions were generous - chef is Mike O'Hare, who was the first chef at the old Caffe Bellissimo on Kirkwood Highway. Highlights of our meal included the "polenta" sandwich, the antipasti (especially the caramelized fennel with a touch of citrus which I would order again in a heartbeat), the crust on the balsamic onion flatbread was thin and terrific, and I highly recommend the spinach ricotta agnolotti and the braciole over creamy polenta.

Menus are piled at the front door. Customers can certainly give them a good look before being seated. If you think the prices seem too high and out of your budget, I think that's the time to leave - not after you've been seated.

Restaurateur Danny Meyer once shared some great advice for diners: Always talk to the server, manager or owner whenever you're unhappy about food, service, drink, whatever, when you are STILL at the restaurant.

The very best restaurants - such as Meyer's operations - will do everything they can possibly do to make you happy.

Stacey - can you please share the landmark restaurants you've written about that you believe are better? Also, what is the favorite restaurant that you mentioned? And why do you like it so much?

I'm sure other readers would be interested to know. Thanks for the email.

BARBECUE AND CHINESE BUFFETS

QUESTION: Patricia, there are two restaurants that are going to open soon. Fish and Ribs at Community Plaza and Bar B Cutie at Fox Run.
Do you know anything about them? Are they part of a chain or [locally-owned]?
Are they opening soon?
Also, what is your opinion of La Tolteca in Fox Run?
And finally, what is your favorite Chinese buffet? There is one on Del. 896 near the old Super Fresh. The food has been declining and I was looking for another.
Thanks,
CL

ANSWER: More new restaurants?!?! Recession? What recession? CL, after I post this I'm hopping into the car and see what I can find out about these new places. Right now, I have no information.

Haven't been to La Tolteca in Fox Run, but I have been to a few other La Toltecas in Delaware. Sorry, but I'm not much of a fan. I'd rather eat at El Tapatio Mexican Restaurant, 1700 Philadelphia Pike, Wilmington, 791-9566; or Taqueria Moroleon, a BYOB restaurant in Kennett Square, Pa., (610) 444-1210.

Don't mean to sound snobbish, but I haven't had much luck at Chinese buffets. It always seems to me that food sits out much too long and doesn't taste as fresh as it should. I have been to the buffet restaurant in the shopping center on Naamans Road (next to Harry’s Savoy Grill) - name escapes me now? - and it was adequate, but I wouldn't run there for a visit.

VINCENTE'S OPENING (MAYBE) IN APRIL

QUESTION: Does anyone know when Marconi's will open near Delaware Park? Thank you, John.

ANSWER: John, do you mean the restaurant coming from restaurateur/showman Vincent Mancari? Mancari is relocating his Vincente's Restaurant in Library Plaza, at 5914 Kirkwood Highway. The restaurant will be near the entrance to Delaware Park and the New Castle County Kirkwood Library, which is currently closed for renovations. I sent Mancari an email and he wrote: "We hope to open early in April, work is going slow."

NO PIT BURGERS IN BEAR

QUESTION: Patricia, Just a quick question! Do you know what happened to the Charcoal Pit in Bear? We tried to go there for dinner on Friday (Feb. 6), and there was a sign on the door saying that they had closed. Did they only close the Bear location, or are other locations being closed as well?
Thanks,
Tammy

ANSWER: Oh my, Tammy. I just tried calling the Bear location in the Fox Run Shopping Center and, yep, the phone line has been disconnected. Eric Ruth and I were recently interviewed by someone from Food Network magazine about the original Charcoal Pit on Concord Pike. I told them how the Pit on the Pike has been a Delaware landmark since 1956.

It looks like other locations are still open, but I'll see what else I can find out.

Come back to Second Helpings for more information.

Top Chef recap

Don't serve undercooked eggs and diluted hollandaise sauce to Jacques Pepin.

Doing just that left Leah with egg on her face. No Bourbon Street booging for her. Hosea, Stefan, Carla and Fabio will be heading to New Orleans to challenge the tastebuds of guest judge Emeril Lagasse.

Here are Pepin's thoughts on last night's "Top Chef." The photo of the famed PBS TV cooking icon was taken by Suchat Pederson at a private gathering at the Hotel du Pont on May 6, 2005.

And some news on a "Top Chef" spinoff.

More on Genelle's closing

Yesterday, I got Wilfred Freeman on the phone to discuss the closing of Genelle's in Wilmington.

Freeman had operated the Market Street Caribbean style restaurant since 1994.

It breaks my heart to hear that a hardworker like Freeman, who was turning out terrific food - I wish I could have a plate of his shirt-staining chicken curry right now - had to turn off the stove.

Freeman admits he's been struggling ever since an expansion to his eatery a few years ago went way overbudget. Soaring food costs also have been difficult for him.

"I've been drained," said Freeman - and I could heard the sadness in his voice.

Any restaurateur making money today will tell you the key to success is not only about serving great food. You must have sound business judgment and management skills, be a psychologist, a custodian, a repairman, a marketer, be up to date on employment labor and health codes, keep track of inventory, have customer service knowledge, know food and beverage costs and have a very sharp eye for details.

And that's only the start of this exhausting list.

Freeman said he's been taking some time off since last month's closing to lick his wounds and hopes to make a comeback soon.

I've asked him to share any future plans with me. I'll let you know.

BK joins slider rage

Late post this week... but I can pass along a good review of Burger King's new Burger Shots, their cutesy-name-that-doesn't-work for their new slider mini-burgers. Not sure how mini-burgers came to be called sliders, but Burger King needed to stick with that name.

Regardless of all that, they're tasty, nice little snack, and I don't really like burgers that much. A nice price for two, $1.39 (or $1.69 for cheese). Can't find any news of the new item at burgerking.com, which is much too clumsy to operate.

In other Burger King opinions, does anyone find their fries to be better than McDonald's? They're usually served hotter. Nothing is more of a downer than getting the "dud fries," the last of the batch, and I've had duds from Burger King just as often as from McDonald's. But I'm just curious as to if anyone else chooses Burger King when it comes to who has the better fries.

New eats places

Capers & Lemons Italian Restaurant & Market - from the owners of Wilmington's Eclipse Bistro and Hockessin's Dome restaurant - opened today in the Commons at Little Falls, an office development at the corner of Del. 48 (Lancaster Pike) and Centerville Road in Millcreek.

Wow. This place is nice. (Entrance is off Centerville Road.) While I didn't eat there (yet), I did take a stroll through the restaurant , grabbed some menus and plan to return very soon.

STAY TUNED.

The eatery is open Mon.-Sat. from 11 a.m to 1 a.m., and Sundays from noon to 10 p.m.

The dinner menu from Chef Mike O'Hare includes woodstone pizzas (between $11 to $14), spinach ricotta agnolotti ($17), cioppino ($19) and braciole with polenta ($19.)

The gourmet foods market will open in March. Call 256-0524.

And the new Stone Balloon Winehouse, at 115 E. Main Street in Newark, is scheduled to begin pouring glasses of vino on Feb. 23, according to its Web site, stoneballoonwh.com.

The menu includes cheeses and a combination of small, large and "shared" plates such as a pate plate with pate de Champagne, truffle mousse pate, foie gras torchon, whole grain mustard, quince paste, caper berries, pickled onions and toast points.

Food for thought

Brown-bagging lunches can save you hundreds of dollars a year, and it might even help you lose weight if you make good choices.

ShopSmart, from the publisher of Consumer Reports, has ideas and tips to pack a delicious lunch.

Some you may already know, some are worth considering:

Packables You Might Not Think to Tote:

Breakfast For Lunch. Frittatas are great served cold or warm, so pack a slice or two while adding a piece of quiche in as well.

Leafless Salads. A mix of chopped raw vegetables in vinaigrette, black beans, corn, diced red peppers, and chopped scallions make a filling, healthful, and inexpensive salad.

Portable Pasta. Try whole grain pasta with vinaigrette and canned salmon or store-bought meatballs. For the carb-watchers, use spaghetti squash, orzo, or brown rice.

Antipasto and Dips. Small bites can be as satisfying as a big sandwich, so pack mozzarella cubes wrapped in roasted red peppers, olives, deviled eggs, salami, and roasted almonds.

Sandwich Substitutes. Pack wedges of good, flavorful cheese, a crusty whole-grain roll, and some grapes or veggies. Try a chicken or egg salad in a hollowed-out tomato, or baked zucchini halves scooped out and filled with chili or other stuffings.

Hot and Hearty Fare. Take homemade, canned, or store-bought soup in a wide-mouth thermos. Leftover stews, stir-fries, and casseroles stay hot and pack well too.

Chip Alternatives. Popcorn or healthy edamame beans are much cheaper than chips from the store. Boiled green soybeans also make for a great late-afternoon pick-me-up.

And some ShopSmart Brown-bag Dos and Don'ts:

DON'T get stuck in a rut. Try packing frozen fruit like peaches or raspberries, which will thaw by midday. Instead of the usual vegetables, consider radishes, jicama spears, or sugar snap peas.

DO avoid soggy salads and sandwiches. Pack greens separately from the dressing and skip watery tomato slices. Instead, try thin slices of zucchini, cucumber, or mild daikon radish which stay crisp for hours.

DO spice it up. Pack extra seasoning in a plastic bag to add to leftovers - hot sauce in particular wakes up other flavors.

DO invest in the right containers. Good containers should be seal-tight and microwaveable. Avoid plastics marked with recycling codes 3, 6 and 7 which could potentially contain harmful chemicals.

DON'T forget a drink. In summer, brew your own tea or coffee at home. In cold weather, bring your own cocoa, coffee, or tea bags and just add hot water.

DO keep smelly stuff at home or under tight wraps. Avoid fishy or garlicky leftovers and skip the stinky stuff if you aren't eating outdoors.

Reader Mail

Hey, I know the new Pizza by Elizabeths location has been crazy, crazy, crazy busy lately - like today's one-hour wait for lunch! seriously! - but you may want to consider Cromwell's Tavern - right across the street.

I had a quite enjoyable chicken quesadilla there the other night and loved snuggling into the booth next to the bookshelves.

Also, don't forget the Delaware Theatre Company's 20th annual Wine Feast & Auction tonight.

Onto the mailbag:

THIS IS FLAKY

QUESTION: Red pepper flakes: Can anyone tell me where to buy these? Stores seem to have only the ground and the whole pepper seeds.
Several of your recent recipes have called for the flakes; the latest one was [in Nancy Coale Zippe's column about] CHILIBOB .
Here's hoping you or one of your readers can help with this.
Regards,
Jeanne Hughes

ANSWER: Hi, Jeanne. Look in the spice aisle of the grocery store and you should find them quite easily - they are often called crushed red pepper flakes. The flakes - which you often find in jars on tables at pizza joints and casual Italian restaurants - are nothing more from hot dried red peppers, normally cayenne, which have been crushed.

CUTTING THE MUSTARD

QUESTION: Hello Patricia,
A number of years ago--I am going to guess 10-12 years--the News Journal devoted the front page of the Food Section to a variety of mustard recipes. I saved this article and made them--they were good-- but I think in the process of a move I have lost the original copy. I have tried to access these recipes through archives on delaware online but have had no luck. If you are able to locate them would you please be able to pass them along? If this is something that you may answer through a blog or online, please let me know--and pass along the website--and I will be happy to access the information there.
Thanks so much for your time.
Carol Long

ANSWER: Wow, great memory Carol! I do remember that story - one of my first "food" stories. I wanted to write about homemade holiday gifts that were anything but cookies, cakes and candy.. It was so much fun to research and write. I've been hunting it down, but with no luck so far. It may take some more digging through our archives, but I should have it somewhere. I'll let you know. Thanks for being a longtime reader. It's much appreciated!

DINING OUT ON V-DAY

QUESTION: Hello, I am stumped. I want to go somewhere special and romantic for this Valentines Day. I know I should be reserving way ahead of time for a good place. Seriously. Service and food REALLY suffers on V-Day. Too many reservations and expectations...Now my bf begs to do it after V-day....because of all the hassle mentioned above. it's true. we've had so many bad experiences in the past. I'll settle for celebrating on the different weekend. I'm still open for suggestions. something unique and special, no budget. :)

Elizabeth

ANSWER: I know restaurateurs may not like hearing this, but I'm with your bf on this one - I'd rather dine out AFTER Valentine's Day. (Same goes with New Year's Eve.) Often restaurants will have special "holiday" menus and eateries are jammed packed on these two popular dining out holidays. (Mother's Day, however, is still the No. 1 holiday to dine out.)

I need a little more information, Elizabeth, about what you're looking for - and what location. Off the top of my head, I've had very good dinners recently at the Blue Pear Bistro near West Chester, Pa. It's cozy and warm, but maybe not necessarily romantic. I think you can never go wrong at Moro restaurant or Domaine Hudson, both in Wilmington. Oysters at the bar at Harry's Seafood Grill? Or how about tapas at either Orillas or Ole Tapas Lounge & Restaurant. One of the most beautiful and stately dining rooms in the state - if not the whole East Coast- can be found at the Hotel du Pont's Green Room.

I LOVE NEW YORK

QUESTION: Hi there, Please place this low on your to-do list, but I have a food question for you. I'm going to NYC for work next week and though I love the city, I think I have failed at eating well when there. Mostly, I'm just running here and there and then getting hungry and eating wherever. Your mention of that onion sandwich this week made my mouth water so I'm wondering if you have any other restaurant suggestions. I'm staying in midtown, but have to be in lower Manhattan for an event or two. I have to justify my expenses, so I probably can't go too high-end.
Thanks! Debra

ANSWER: Debra, I'm so jealous! You're going to the culinary capital of the world. So many places to dine, so little time. Off the bat, I'd recommend Momofuku Ssam Bar (go at night), Spotted Pig, Prune, and Resto. I'll be writing about Resto very soon. This Belgian-style restaurant was named one of the Top 10 best in New York by very picky critic NY Times food critic Frank Bruni. It's owned by former Delaware resident Christian Pappanicholas, who graduated from Wilmington Friends School. Make a reservation and tell Christian you're from Delaware. He loves getting visitors from his hometown.

Other places that my friend Andy suggests - one of my best food sources for NYC eats - include Irving Mill, Sushi Yasuda, Mas, and Annisa.

Twelves Grill

It's Friday. And that means Reader Mail. It's coming - I'm still playing catch-up after being off last week - but not until late this afternoon.

Keep the email flowing. You ask. We answer. Every Friday. Send the queries to me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

In the meantime, check out my review of Twelves Grill & Cafe, a new BYOB in West Grove, Pa.

The photo above, taken by Jennifer Corbett, shows server Sherry Hess standing in front of the original bank vault which is now the BYOB's coat room.

"Top Chef" casting

Think you've got better slicing, dicing and sauteing skills than Fabio, Stefan and Hosea?

Then get ready to pack up your knives and go.

"Top Chef", the Bravo TV Emmy and James Beard Award-winning series, currently in its fifth season, is holding an open call in Philadelphia for chefs interested in competing in the high-stakes culinary competition series.

Head to XIX Nineteen at Park Hyatt at the Bellevue on March 4 from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Visit http://www.nineteenrestaurant.com/.

"Top Chef" is on pace to record its highest-rated season ever, scoring 2.28 million adults 18-49 and 3.22 million total viewers with Jan. 28 episode, which was the series' highest rated non-finale telecast ever.

The series is up 18 percent among adults 18-49 and total viewers, versus season four.

Coffee talk

You needn't spend a lot beans when it comes to ground coffee.

And that's no java joke.

In fact, some of the best-tasting coffee costs the least, according to Consumer Reports.

In the magazine's March issue, the morning cup of joe is given a close examination. Coffee experts who sampled 19 100 percent Colombian coffees decided that the best regular coffee is Eight O'Clock Coffee (about $6 per pound).

Caribou Coffee came in second, and Kickapoo Coffee third.

The best tasting decaffeinated brew was Dunkin' Donuts. Two other winning "low test" coffees were Millstone and Folgers.

Top Chef recap

Didn't recap last week's "Top Chef" episode, but let me say I was so happy to hear Fabio complain about sleeping on a bunk bed or as he called it, a "bunky" bed.

The "bunky" bed situation has been a pet peeve for me for some time. I can't believe Bravo can't spring for better sleeping arrangements.

Oh, and Blonde Guy got the boot last week and I didn't mind seeing him go.

OK, onto last night's show and let me get two things off my chest, pronto:

- Never thought I'd miss Gail, but I'm done, done, done, done! with judge Toby "Stupid Comments" Young. His "Pablo" escolar remark just about sent me over the edge. Dude, you're not clever, or amusing, and you're certainly no Ricky Gervais. I hope the producers chalk this up as an unhappy marriage - a la first season host Katie Lee Joel - and divorce Young.

- Tattoo Girl (Jamie) was borderline disrespectful to judge Eric Ripert and, sorry, she doesn't yet have the cooking chops or reputation to take on one of the best chefs in the country. She didn't tell him to his face that she was "bored" with his food - but she did say it to the camera, which is the same thing.

Quickfire Challenge was filleting fish. Never done it. Well, I've never done it well. That's why God made fish mongers for us non-toque wearers.

I got a little squeamish watching the blood and guts fly during the sardine slicing. And what was with Beaker (Carla) putting on the "dumb gal" Southern accent - channeling Paula Deen, perhaps? - when she screwed up? And Leah quitting in the middle of slicing the arctic char? In front of Eric "Fish God" Ripert? Are you kidding me? I don't get these two numskulls at all.

The final round was the Battle of the Baldies - Stefan versus Hosea. I was rooting for Stefan, who had his best "Dieter from Sprockets" moment this season. Pounding a nail into an eel's head and skinning it while it was still squirming was just another day in Germany for my favorite cocky chef, who was clearly showing a "tiresome" attitude toward Hosea.

Unless he does something really stupid - like trying to shave someone's head - my money's on Sprockets to take it home this season.

Elimination Challenge was reproducing one of the dishes Ripert served at Le Bernardin. This, my friends, was a very difficult and nerve-wracking challenge.

You so knew Hosea was going down when he went on and on about how he's runs a seafood restaurant and he knows fish..blah, blah, blah.....Shut it, baldie. You got bested by your arch nemesis Stefan.

But it was actually Jamie who got the judge's knife for serving up salty celery. Payback for trash talking Ripert? That seems to be "Top Chef" karma.

Restaurant closings

Always sad to report, but a few local eateries have called it quits, and I hear rumblings that even more closings are coming:

Genelle's Restaurant, 730 N. Market St., Wilmington, a downtown fixture for about 15 years, has turned out the lights. Curry chicken ruled the roost here. Wilfred Freeman, a native of Guyana, opened the eatery in 1994.

The stove's also cold at Smith & Co. Restaurant in Milford, which was built in 2005.

Get a crab cake instead

Baltimore is the backdrop for the romantic dramedy "He's Just Not That Into You," which opens Friday.

This isn't the first time Charm City is a character in a dopey chick flick. Many of Meg Ryan's scenes in "Sleepless in Seattle" were set in the O's hometown.

While the neon Domino Sugars sign can be seen from an apartment shared by the characters played by Jennifer Aniston and Ben Affleck, it's only Hollywood wizardry. Most of the movie was filmed in Los Angeles. According to the Baltimore Sun, the window view was a backdrop created by a production designer.

Look closely at some of the bar scenes, however, and you can spy bottles of Natty Boh, or National Bohemian, the beer that was once brewed in Baltimore.

The movie, which focuses on the love lives of nine men and women, is based on the book by writer/comedian Greg Behrendt and Liz Tuccillo, an executive editor of the HBO TV series "Sex and the City."

Behrendt grew tired of listening to women make excuses for men they were dating. During a "Sex" story meeting, he put down the cookie he was eating and tossed off the line "Listen, it sounds like he's just not that into you."

Brutal honest truth begat a best-seller and now an annoying movie that portrays women as needy ninnies.

Save your money and spend it on a Baltimore-style crab cake.

Regular Guy Grub (Manhattan edition)

Hey, let's keep with the Big Apple theme, since last week I spent a couple nights in Manhattan for work. Here's a few places my brother and I went (he lives up there).

The Half Pint. 76 W. Third St. A wide selection of beers from 15 countries, including Dogfish Head, of course. Though the selection of bottled beer was countless, I went with a Bitburger Pilsner draft from Germany, described as a light pilsner with "hoppy dryness." This was a good beer, and went well with their buffalo wings. The fries were a dud, however.

Righteous Urban Barbeque (RUB BBQ). 208 W. 23rd St. What was most interesting about this place is that we showed up around 11 p.m. and they said the kitchen was closing. Anyway, my brother did manage to order a pulled pork sandwich, and said it was very good.

Jake's Saloon. 206 W. 23 St. After the BBQ place forgot that New York was the city that never sleeps, we went next door to Jake's. This would be a great place to watch the big game, with several large TV screens (especially behind the bar). My beer of choice here was Pilsner Urquell. Yeah, I know. I'm usually the Coors Light/Miller Lite guy. But this was Manhattan. Besides, my brother and I thought we saw Jessica Simpson at the other table (Yes, I realize this is another Jessica Simpson reference. Who knows. Maybe it was her).

Joe's Pizza. 7 Carmine St. (at Bleecker St.). Some say the best pizza can only be found in New York City. Whenever I have gone to visit to New York, I have liked the pizza but have never been blown away. Until Joe's. This was one of the best slices of pizza I've had in a while. If you are a pizza aficionado, you have to seek out Joe's on your next visit to New York. It fits the regular guy pizza requirements to perfection.

New York eats - Balthazar and Prune

I sometimes forget that New York is a tourist city. Or that not everyone has a 9 to 5 job.

Or maybe I've just been living in Delaware too long.

It still amazes, and excites, me to see tons of people in Manhattan restaurants at 2 in the afternoon or later. (What do all of these people do for a living? Does everyone have the day off? Are they skipping out of work early? Finishing up a long martini lunch? Are they out of work? Locals? Out-of-towners? Is everyone having an attack of the late-day munchies? What gives?)

Those thoughts were going through my head when we popped into Balthazar at around 4 in the afternoon. The place was jammed. Not a seat at the bar - in fact, it was two or three deep - nor in the dining room of this bustling and very noisy bistro. Balthazar has been around for almost 12 years, but I've never been. Usually I head to Pastis for the casual French experience. (Same owners as Balthazar.)

The "afternoon" menu at Balthazar which is different than the lunch menu - don't you love it? - has the usual bistro suspects: onion soup, chicken liver and foie gras, frites, etc. Just be warned: You'll need to speak very loudly to whomever you're with or they won't hear you.

If you want the same experience locally - well, somewhat locally - head to Parc in Philadelphia.

The place that I've been dying to try - and finally did - is Prune in the East Village. (See photo to the right, which makes Prune look larger than it is.) When I visited the set of "The Rachael Ray Show" about a year ago for an article on Ray, I had planned to eat lunch at Prune; it opened in 1999. I started talking to someone from Ray's "team" about where I was going and she gave me a frown and said I should go somewhere else. She then directed me and photographer Suchat Pederson to Bobby Flay's restaurant Mesa Grill where we had a great table and an unmemorable meal. Later, I thought: "Why in the world did I listen to someone from 'The Rachael Ray Show'?" These are people who think it's OK that a grown woman uses words like sammies and yum-o. (Obviously I didn't have enough coffee that morning.)

But, during my recent Manhattan visit, I led with my heart - and head. (My pal Andy, who is in the know about NYC eats, said I must go to Prune. Andy also told me to go to Momofuku Ssam Bar and the Spotted Pig long before both became critic favorites. Andy is never wrong.)

Prune is a tiny slip of a place - maybe 12 tables at most in this storefront. The kitchen is open and there are about five seats at the bar. Chef/owner Gabrielle Hamilton, who writes occasionally for The New York Times and Food & Wine, wasn't cooking at lunch, but she did oversee the dining room and plates.

This is not the place for anyone obese and I don't mean because of the portion sizes, which are perfectly fine. What I mean is that there is simply no room. You need to squeeze into tables and you're so close, you will get to know your neighbors during a meal.

This also is not the restaurant for anyone without a certain sense of culinary adventure. I was thrilled to see roasted bone marrow and parsley salad on the dinner menu. (So was my companion who had the same dish with me at St. John in London.) And, oh look: Fried sweetbreads with bacon and capers! Woo-hoo! (See what I mean? If you're grossed out, then stop reading.)

But we were lunching at Prune. (I'm so going back for dinner.) We munched on the complimentary celery sticks and black olives while our server gave us the lowdown on the oatmeal sandwich with Trenton Pork Roll - it's made with Irish steel cut oats, peanut butter, brown sugar and fried pork roll. (The idea is salty and sweet on a sandwich and it looked very good.)

Wavering between the bacon and marmalade sandwich on pumpernickel toast and grilled tuna club with aioli and arugula, we decided finally to go with James Beard's onion sandwich (crustless white bread spread with French butter, fleur de sal, homemade mayonnaise and Vidalia onions and dipped in fresh chopped parsley) and fried chicken livers and the buttered brown rice with rock shrimp and pork cracklings. I was trying to keep it somewhat light since I had to fit in two other restaurant visits that day.

Some may think touting this kind of food is like crowing about the Emperor's New Clothes, but I found it to be honest, satisfying cuisine without pretension.

For dessert, we shared Hamilton's famed Breton butter cake. Read about here. It's served warm and is just simple layers of crusty, slightly orange-flavored, goodness.

We swooned with each bite. Hamilton saw us and gave a big smile.