Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Something fishy

A third "Harry's" is coming to Wilmington.
Harry's Fish Market + Grill - from the owners of Harry's Savoy Grill and Harry's Seafood Grill - is expected to open by May in the Wilmington Riverfront Market.

David Leo Banks, executive chef and an owner of Harry's Seafood Grill, which adjoins the historic South Orange Street warehouse on the banks of the Christina, said the new retail seafood market will offer "as many varieties of fish as we can. We'll have nice portions of tuna and wild salmon.

"We probably won't be mongering a lot of fish in that space," Banks said Tuesday afternoon, but the stall will offer breakfast and lunch takeout as well as catering services.

The menu includes fish and chips, crab cakes, burgers and grilled chicken sandwiches, salads, and soups.

It will be open during market hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mon.-Fri; 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sat., and closed Sunday.

Harry's Fish Market + Grill takes over the space vacated by Lapp's Kitchen. After eight years at the market, Lapp's owner Chuck Parkhill moved his business to 901 N. King St. in November 2008.

For more information about the Harry's Fish Market + Grill, visit http://www.harrys-savoy.com/.

Qboda Grill

I was dashing around downtown Wilmington today on an assignment and stopped in Qdoba Mexican Grill, 837 N. Market St., for quick takeout lunch.

Very clean. Nice, smiling employees that don't seem annoyed to be waiting on you. You order at a counter just like at Moe's Southwest Grill (but, thankfully, employees don't continuously shout "Welcome to Moe's!" every time the door opens.)

I was pretty boring. I just ordered a grilled chicken burrito with black beans, rice and pico de gallo ($6.69). Not bad. Not great. It certainly was a big helping - though there was more rice than anything else - but don't think I'll be running back anytime soon for another one. A regular soft drink is $1.69.

Regular Guy Grub - fried chicken

Arts and Entertainment editor Peter Bothum is a "Regular Guy Grubber." He's been talking about Amore Pizza's fried chicken forever. And now he's finally written about it. Bothum's article first appeared in 55 Hours last Friday. Here's an encore in case you missed it.

And, by the way readers, where do YOU go for fried chicken?

Amore Pizza's fried chicken

By PETER BOTHUM
The News Journal

I'll never forget the day in 2005 when I first ordered fried chicken from Amore Pizza, 430 Old Baltimore Pike near Newark. The chicken didn't come in a bucket, styrofoam box or a paper carrier.

My order -- probably a 12-piece or more to suit my glutton-like behavior toward food -- was handed to me in a covered foil container that was hot -- like, you-can't-carry-this-too-far hot.
I knew this meant something special was inside, because this vessel felt like a treasure chest to me for some reason. What I didn't know was that this strongbox held 12 glorious chunks of edible gold.
When I opened the container at home I felt like Vincent Vega in "Pulp Fiction" when the glowing light of a criminal briefcase beamed into his face.

Like Vincent, I could never describe the beauty I saw, but I'll try: Crispy, beautiful pieces laid on top of a bed of french fries that soaked up the grease from the chicken for a prize to be had later.
Steam streamed out when I cut into the seemingly endless meaty parts of the breasts. The skin crunched and melted in my mouth. I thought I could run through half of the dozen but my eyes were, as the saying goes, much bigger than my stomach.

Buckets of chicken at Amore range from a four piece for $6.50 to $19.50 for 16 pieces. There's also meals of four, eight, 12, 16 and 20 pieces, with prices ranging from $9.99 for four pieces to $25.99 (for 20). It comes with your choice of two sides (three if you get 12 or more), but they're really kind of "eh." The variety is even worse -- other than cole slaw, your choices are potatoes (fries), potatoes (mashed) and potatoes (salad).

But you do get the fries in the foil bin for free, along with some usually decent garlic bread.
The response when you order a batch of fried chicken at Amore's tells you that you're getting it fresh -- they inform you that it'll be about 25-30 minutes, instead of the usual 15-20, because they have to cook it up.

Amore Pizza stared in New York in 1969 with its Italian-style pizza, which is still amazing. In 1996 it moved to Newark and now has a second location at 1590 Red Lion Road, Bear.

They're online at www.amorepizza.com.

Now this is just getting nutty....


First, we had to shun the peanut.

Now there's another nut that could make us barf - or worse: the pistachio.

Hope you didn't stock up on one of those 4-pound bags from Costco.

I wonder if I need to beware of the walnut brownie that's sitting on my desk?
And should I be afraid, very afraid, of the almonds that were in my granola this morning?

It's enough to make you .....well, you know.

Saturday, March 28, 2009

"Chopping Block" is 86'ed

NBC's low-rated series "Chopping Block" has gotten chopped.

No big surprise. I wanted more of star chef Marco Pierre White, but found the rest of the series to be a real yawner. This was no "Top Chef."

Friday, March 27, 2009

New offerings from the Phils


By PATRICIA TALORICO
The News Journal

PHILADELPHIA - New cheesesteaks, more vegetarian options, a 50-foot rooftop bar, a talking "robot" trash can and Charlie Manuel bobble figurines are just some of things that Phillies fans can expect to see when the 2008 World Series champs begin playing ball this season at Citizens Bank Park.

The Phils will begin defending their title - against the Atlanta Braves at the April 5 sold-out home opener - wearing spiffy new jerseys decorated with gold twill on the front and back. Throughout the season, players also will wear World Series champion patches on their home jerseys.

But some of this season's biggest changes are taking place off the field. In the Ashburn Alley concession area, Campo's Cheesesteaks will take over the spot that had been occupied by Rick's Steaks. In October 2008, Rick's Steaks owner Rick Olivieri lost his lease and had to close his main stand in the city's Reading Terminal Market after a 25 year run.

Campo's Deli at Second and Market streets in Old City - a quick three-block stroll from the Liberty Bell - has been a Philadelphia institution since 1947. On Thursday morning at Citizens Bank Park, owner Mike Campo, who runs the family business with his son Michael and daughter Mia Campo, showed off several varieties of his cheesesteaks that will be sold at the ballpark.

The warm, meaty sandwiches, made with rib-eye steak and packed on sturdy, fresh rolls from New Jersey-based Liscio's Bakery, will be flavored with everything from grilled onions and mushrooms to jalapeno cheese and hot sauce.

"We're really excited," said Mike Campo, as he served up what is considered Philadelphia's most beloved sandwich. "We don't know what to expect."


Fans will likely consume 15,000 hot dogs, 6,000 soft pretzels and 5,000 cheesesteaks on opening day, according to ARAMARK officials, who run the stadium concessions.

David Lippman, ARAMARK concessions director, said in addition to traditional ballpark fare, more vegetarian offerings will be part of the culinary line-up.

This year, the Alley Grill, in the left field plaza, will have southwestern-style vegetable burgers and the Nacho Portable Stand behind section 122 will be selling vegetarian quesadillas. The South Philly Market at section 128 also will offer vegan hot dogs and vegan garden burgers.

Citizens Bank now sells more than 40 different brands of beer - including Milton's own Dogfish Head - and Lippman said the price for a 16-ounce draft beer will start at $6.75. (Heinken and Dos Equis are new draft suds this year.) Other local brews include Yards and Troegs.
"We got some real beer lovers," he said.
Lippman said a concession goal was to keep prices reasonable with most foods costing between $3 to $13. Tickets for games start at $16.

"We want to make sure there is something for everyone," he said. Concession specials also are offered for the first 30 minutes that Ashburn Alley is open, usually 2 1/2 hours prior to game time.

Greg Luzinski, the former Phils slugger who runs Bull's BBQ, an outdoor picnic area with pit beef, barbecued ribs and pulled barbecue pork sandwiches, has added a children's platter this year that includes a turkey sandwich, apple sauce and macaroni and cheese.

"People go through the lines and they don't want to have to go somewhere else for the kids," Luzinski said. "In addition to it being good, it's also a convenience."

Luzinski will again be selling his bottled barbecue sauce, which is also available at Willey Farms in Townsend. "That's a great place," he said of the Delaware store on U.S. 13. "You can get everything there."

Tarek Bahgat, who runs the Seasons Pizza stand behind sections 205 and 322, said he will be focusing on offering more gourmet pizzas this season. Each homestand will feature a new pie from the Delaware based pizza chain and some of the combinations will include bacon, chicken and ranch dressing and pies topped penne pasta and ricotta cheese.

About 3,000 slices of pizza are expected to be sold on April 5. "It's a little crazy," Bahgat joked about his pasta pizza. "You can get all your carbs."

Fans looking to stretch their legs can visit the new rooftop bar, a 50-foot space above Ashburn Alley, that will have plasma screen TVs and sell Buffalo chicken sliders, nachos and hot dogs. McFadden's Restaurant & Saloon, the sports-themed restaurant at the Third Base Gate, also has added a new "open air" bar area with flat screen TVs.

Brenda Linton of Newark, who runs Citizens Bank's "Build-A-Bear" store, said little fans can create a World Series bear or stuffed Phillie Phanatic doll - with a movable red tongue - for about $25.
Stadium giveways this year range from a fleece blanket decorated with a photo of Jayson Werth (May 10) to Jimmy Rollins wristbands (July 12).

But Scott Brandreth, director of merchandise, predicts that the Charlie Manuel bobble head figurine given away on April 28 will be one of the most popular items. "The players are going nuts," he said about the doll made to look like the Phils scrappy manager.
The organization also is encouraging more recycling at the stadium. A "Red Goes Green" Team, made up of volunteers, will collect recyclable plastic and aluminum bottles from the seating area through the seventh inning. And a 4-foot-tall interactive robot shaped like a trashcan known as Phil the "spokescan" will roll through the ballpark and encourage fans to recycle.

Contact Patricia Talorico at 324-2861 or ptalorico@delawareonline.com. Read her culinary blog Second Helpings at www.delawareonline.com/secondhelpings.

Reader Mail


Soooooo happy it's Friday. More NCAA b-ball tonight even though losses by Duke - yeah, I know I went with Duke and not 'Nova - and Memphis haven't help my bracket. Errrrrrrr....








On Thursday, the Phillies unveiled new food options, merchandise and other things that will be going on at Citizens Bank Park this season. Home opener is April 5. I'll post my story later today. (Chatted for a while with my childhood hero Greg Luzinski, who sells his Bull's BBQ sauce at Willey Farms in Townsend. Life was very good on Thursday.)

And speaking of Thursday: Have you been to the Thursday live jazz nights at Moro? They have a small plates menu - items are $15 and under - available on the second-floor. I think this may be one of the best deals in the state for food of this caliber. Moro is easily one of best restaurants in Delaware. More is coming soon.

Every Friday is Reader Mail. You ask. I try to answer. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Here's what's in the mailbag:


PETER BRADY ISN'T THE ONLY ONE WHO LOVES PORK CHOPS AND APPLESAUCE

QUESTION: Dear Pat,
I loved your blog today about having pork and sauerkraut for dinner with mashed potatoes. That is my favorite item that I get every time I go up to Shady Maple outside of Lancaster, Pa. I don't know how to make it though. Could you possibly print your recipe for this yummy meal? I would love tobe able to make it for a Sunday dinner too.

ANSWER: Hi. Thanks for the email. I don't really have a recipe for the dish - it's more like a cooking method.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Set an enamel-coated Dutch oven on the stove over medium-high heat. Film thebottom of the pan with vegetable or canola oil. Salt and pepper a boneless pork roast - I think mine was about 2 1/2 pounds - add it to the pan and brown it in all sides. (You're not cooking it through, just browning the outside.) Remove the roast from the pan. Set aside.

Turn heat down to medium. Add a little more oil, if needed, and 1 large sliced onion and 1 sliced apple to the pan. Sprinkle with salt and a few grinds of freshly ground pepper. Cook until the apples begin to soften and the onion wilts, about 3 mins.. Then, add 1 to 2 cloves of chopped garlic. Cook just until the garlic is fragrant.

Then, add one bag of sauerkraut - I like Kissling's. (Do not rinse it.)

This is where you can get creative. I added about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of homemadechicken broth - just because I had it in the refrigerator - as well as a few splashes - maybe 1/4 cup or so - of apple cider. (You could add white wine if you wanted.) I also added fresh thyme, some caraway seeds, a little ground allspice and a little more salt and pepper. A bay leaf isn't a bad addition.

Put the pork roast back in the Dutch oven. Cover with a lid and place in the oven for 1 1/2 hours. When the 1 1/2 hours was up - I put on the potatoes on the stove to boil for the mashed potatoes. Then, I turned the oven down to 300 degrees and continued cooking the pork and sauerkraut another 30 mins. or so, or until the potatoes on the stove were fork tender and ready to mash.

Remove the pork and sauerkraut from the oven. Slice the pork and return it to the pot. Serve with the mashed potatoes, applesauce - and don't forget rye bread. Horseradish on the side also is good!

A GARAGE SALE AT AIR TRANSPORT COMMAND?

QUESTION: Dear Ms Talorico,

As the local culinary expert, it has been suggested that I ask you about something that I have had no luck at all getting an answer to. Do you know what the status of the old Air Transport Command location is? It closed again before I had a chance to get there, and, as a history buff, I'd be very interested if whoever owns the place and the stuff within ever decides to get rid of it. Do you know anything or who I might contact? Any info would be welcome.

Thanks.

Sincerely,
David Harkins

ANSWER: Air Transport Command restaurant, a part of the New Castle County landscape for more than 20 years, closed on March 29, 2006, according to a handwritten sign on the door. *** UPDATE: It reopened for a short period of time and then suddenly closed again. ****

When the aviation-themed eatery near the New Castle Airport on U.S. 13 first opened in 1984, themed restaurants were big business. The restaurant was named for the military's Air Transport Command, which had a support group at the former New Castle Air Base. Because some of the first women aviators to fly transport planes flew out of New Castle, the restaurant was dedicated to them. The eatery had been owned by Specialty Restaurants Corp. of Long Beach, Calif., which operates several aviation-themed eateries with World War I and World War II motifs.

We called Specialty Restaurant Corp. several times after the restaurant first closed in 2006 and no one returned phone calls.

I tried calling the restaurant's listed phone number on Friday and it rings and rings.

I have no more information. But if I do, I'll post it here.

WORLD'S WORST PIZZA BUT WORLD'S BEST STROMBOLI

QUESTION: Ms. Talorico,

I have not enjoyed a stromboli since Pala's Cafe [World's Worst Pizza on Union Street in Wilmington] closed. Does anyone have the recipe that was used? I'd be extremely grateful to anyone that might be able to supply this to me.

Thank you for your time,
Debbie Bello

ANSWER: I miss Pala's too, Debbie. I liked their chopped salad. Where to get a stromboli now? I recall Gallucio's as having a very good stromboli, though it's been a while since I had one. Readers? Any thoughts? (Maybe, this is a topic one of our Regular Guy Grubbers can tackle - well, if I can get them out of Hooters....)

I will pass along your request to our food columnist Nancy Coale Zippe, who is the Indiana Jones of reader recipe requests.

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Cheap eats

Eric Ruth offers a story today about eating cheaply.

Last night, I was out with a terrific group of friends (shout out to you all) and we ate at "Eat."

Well, that's what I always call Border Cafe, a Tex-Mex/Cajun eatery in Stanton, because of the large "Eat" sign out front. (Is there even a Border Cafe sign out front??)

The dining rooms were very busy last night - and there were about a dozen people waiting for tables when we arrived. When I opened the menu, I quickly realized why it was so jammed. Wow. I don't think there was any entree more than $18. In fact, most meals are in the $10 and under range.

The creamy guacamole ($3.95 a bowl), flecked with tomatoes, onion and cilantro and served with a basket of warm tortilla chips, was very fresh-tasting and quite good as were the slightly spicy catfish tacos. The catfish taco platter - two tacos on flour tortillas - also comes with a side of rice and black beans for $7.47. That's some seriously cheap eats.

However, I'm no fan of Border's margaritas which are syrupy sweet icky. (Someone also said they tasted watery.) No thanks. I'm spoiled. I had a wonderful, freshly-squeezed pineapple margarita recently at Distrito in Philadelphia and now there's no going back to poorly produced cocktails.

Get a bottled beer instead, or maybe a glass of wine, which come in tumblers, for under $7.

And, speaking of icky, Border's needs to give its ladies restroom a serious scrubbing.

I guess that's the price you pay for cheap....

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

What's shaking....


In case you missed my column, Orillas chef/owner Julio Lazzarini is going to be a contestant on the Food Network series "Chopped." Too cool for school. Go Julio. Hey, chef, don't forgot to give me a ring when you know when the episode is airing....

A Taste of Little Italy continues through Thursday.

Newark annual Wine & Dine is Saturday.


The Phillies unveil their new eats at Citizens Bank Park tomorrow. I'll be there. A story will be coming soon. Last year, I chatted with Greg "The Bull" Luzinski and a very funny Mitch Williams, who was shilling his salsa. Luzinski told me he's a fan of Willey Farms in Townsend. (They sell his BBQ sauce.)



Aqua Soul, a new bar where the old Saints & Sinners used to be in Bear, is coming soon.

Restaurants participating in the UNICEF-sponsored TAP Project during World Water Week will ask patrons to donate $1 for tap water through Saturday.

Sixth-grade students at Wilmington Montessori School have recruited the following restaurants for the fundraiser: Bistro on the Brandywine, in Chadds Ford, Pa.; Meghan's, in Glen Mills, Pa.; The Centreville Cafe, in Centreville; Eclipse Bistro and Toscana Kitchen + Bar, both in Wilmington; India Grill, in Talleyville; and Tavern D'Italia, on Philadelphia Pike.

All proceeds will go to UNICEF's efforts to provide clean drinking water worldwide.Visit www.tapproject.org.

Where's Andre?


Word on the street is that Tim Gunn, the guru of Bravo TV's "Project Runway," was spotted this morning at the Wilmington Train Station.

Anyone see Mr. Gunn out and about on a fashion emergency? Heavens to Betsy is someone daring to wear shoulder pads, "Mom" jeans or a track suit - in public?

Sorry, but there's no way you can make that work.

The fabulous Mr. Gunn, whose duty in life is to correct fashion faux pas, isn't a First State newcomer.

He was at Rehoboth Beach's Browseabout Books in July 2007 to promote his book, "A Guide to Quality, Taste and Style."

And Gunn has Delaware ties. His mom lives in Bethany Beach.

If you see Gunn, email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Roman holiday


Our intern Jen is going on Spring Break next week. Lucky kid. It got me thinking about where I would go - and, nope, not some beach in Cancun. (Been there, done that.)

All About Ham (revisted)

Busy day today at The NJ and I haven't had a chance to write new posts.

My apologies. But, for your reading pleasure - and Easter dinner planning - here's a repeat of a story I wrote last year about ham.

(I loved the ATTACK OF THE HAM "movie poster" art to the right that was created by our own Howard Johnson. Way to go, HJ!)

New updates are coming Wednesday....

By PATRICIA TALORICO

Listen and understand.

A ham is a lot like "The Terminator."

It can't be bargained with. It can't be reasoned with. It doesn't feel pity, or remorse, or fear. And it absolutely will not stop, ever, until you eat every last slice.

So, how do you keep a relatively easy Easter meal from becoming a post-holiday horror show?

(Leftovers again! There's no escape! Please. In the name of humanity. Make. It. Stop.)

To conquer this hulking hunk of meat, you first need to understand a few basics.

A ham, usually meant to feed a large group, will dwarf even the strongest and largest appetites.

Dorothy Parker once wrote, "Eternity is two people and a ham." Now, that was one smart lady.

Since there's an overwhelming variety of hams available, knowing how much and what kind to buy is half the battle.

A true ham is the leg of pork that comes from the hind of the hog. This is the best choice for slicing and serving. To confuse matters, the front leg -- called the pork shoulder picnic -- often is cured and called ham as well. These hams tend to have more internal fat, making them better suited for dishes such as soups and stews.

Most true hams are cured in salt or salt water and sometimes sugar. After curing, American hams are smoked, then partially or fully cooked. European hams, such as prosciutto, are salted, air-dried and eaten raw.

A few small U.S. producers still make traditional country hams, which are salt-cured, then cold-smoked over smoldering fires. This type of ham must be thoroughly cooked and is extremely salty.

Most of the hams carried by mainstream grocers are fully cooked. The various names on the labels generally refer to the cut of the leg you are getting and the style of flavors used to prepare it.

Check below to see what you need to know.

This article contains information from the Associated Press.

Five tasty ways to tame a ham for the table

HAM CROQUETTES

Ham leftovers can be made into this retro dish from James Villas' "The Glory of Southern Cooking" (Wiley, 2007.) For perfect texture, refrigerate the ham mixture overnight before forming into patties.

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter

3 scallions (white parts only), finely chopped

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus extra for dredging

1 1/2 cups milk

4 cups coarsely chopped cooked ham

3 large egg yolks

1/4 teaspoon dried sage, crumbled

Salt and black pepper to taste

1 large egg, beaten with 2 tablespoons water

2 cups fine bread crumbs

Peanut oil for frying

In a saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat, add the scallions and flour and whisk till soft and well-blended, about 2 minutes. Whisking rapidly, add the milk till well-blended, add the ham, stir well, and remove from the heat. Whisking rapidly, add the egg yolks, return to the heat, add the sage and salt and pepper, and whisk till well-blended. Scrape mixture into a dish, cover and refrigerate overnight. With hands, divide the mixture into 6 balls and roll lightly in the flour. Pat the balls into smooth oval patties, dip briefly into the egg wash, dredge in the bread crumbs and place on a plate until ready to fry. In a large heavy skillet, heat about 1 inch of oil over moderately high heat about 1 minute, fry the patties till golden brown, about 3 minutes on each side, and drain on paper towels. Serve hot. Makes 6 servings.

BLACK-EYED PEA SOUP WITH HAM AND GREENS

A recipe from Mark Bittman's "Quick and Easy Recipes from The New York Times" (Broadway Books, 2007). He likes to serve the soup with a bottle of hot sauce or vinegar.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 ounces ham, chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cups cooked, canned or frozen black-eyed peas

2 cups watercress, trimmed and chopped

Salt and black pepper

Put half the olive oil in a deep skillet or casserole over medium-high heat. Add meat and cook, stirring, for a minute; then add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens and begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Add peas and 1 quart of water. Bring to a boil; turn heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until the peas are completely tender -- 10 minutes for cooked or canned, about 30 minutes for frozen. Stir in the watercress and cook, stirring occasionally, for just a couple of minutes, or until it wilts. Add more water if the soup is very thick. Taste and adjust the seasoning, stir in the remaining olive oil and serve. Makes 4 servings.

HAM, MUSHROOM AND GINGER FRIED RICE

Use ham leftovers in this dish from "Weight Watchers All-Time Favorites" cookbook (Wiley, 2008.)

4 teaspoons canola oil

6 thin slices peeled, fresh ginger, cut into very thin strips

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1/2 pound fresh sliced shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced

1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 cup very small broccoli florets

2 large eggs, beaten

2 cups cold cooked brown rice

1 (1/4-pound) piece lean baked ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 cup bean sprouts

1 cup frozen shelled edamame (green soybeans)

4 scallions, thinly sliced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Heat 2 teaspoons of oil in a large nonstick skillet or wok over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles in it. Add ginger and garlic; stir-fry until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add mushrooms, bell pepper, and broccoli; stir-fry until vegetables are crisp-tender and mushrooms begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl. Heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in the skillet. Add eggs and stir-fry until softly scrambled, about 2 minutes. Break eggs into small pieces and add to vegetables in the bowl. Heat remaining 1 teaspoon of oil in the skillet. Add rice, ham, bean sprouts, edamame and scallions; stir-fry until heated through, about 3 minutes. Return the vegetables and eggs to the skillet; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Stir-fry until heated through, about 1 minute. Makes 6 servings (each serving 1 1/3 cup).

GINGER ALE-GLAZED HAM

This sweet and tangy glaze from Jamie and Bobby Deen's "The Deen Bros. Cookbook"(Meredith Books, 2007) was inspired by a cola-glaze they grew up with.

3- to 4-pound boneless ham

1 cup white wine

2 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons molasses

Pinch cayenne pepper

2 cups ginger ale

2 tablespoons honey

Preheat oven to 300. Place the ham in a roasting pan. In a medium saucepan, combine the wine, mustard, molasses and cayenne pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in ginger ale. Pour glaze over ham. Bake for 1 1/2 hours. Increase oven temperature to 325. Bake for another hour, basting ham every 15 minutes. Brush the ham with honey. Bake, basting every 15 minutes, until the ham is well-glazed, about another 30 minutes. Slice and serve. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

TOMATO AND ONION GLAZE

This glaze from "The Good Housekeeping Cookbook," (Hearst Books, 2007) is a less sweet alternative to traditional fruit- or sugar-based recipes. Since a glaze coats only the outside, you might double the recipe to serve as you would a gravy.

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

8-ounce can tomato sauce

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter or margarine. Add the chopped onion and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato sauce, brown sugar and Worcestershire sauce, then bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until glaze thickens, about 5 minutes. Use the sauce to glaze a ham, basting as desired. Makes about 1 cup.

PLANNING

- When serving boneless ham, plan on four to five servings per pound, according to the National Pork Board. Count on two to three servings per pound for bone-in hams.

- An unopened ham, in the original packaging, can be refrigerated for 7 to 10 days. For longer storage, freeze the ham in original packaging for up to 2 months.

GLAZING

- Any ham looks and tastes better with a flavorful glaze. Most combine a sweet ingredient -- such as brown sugar, maple syrup or molasses -- with a contrasting flavor, such as mustard or vinegar. Sugars in the glaze caramelize while baking, giving the ham a glossy sheen.

- Before coating ham with glaze make sure to score it with a diamond pattern by cutting 1/4- to 1/2-inch slashes into the surface. It provides more surface area on the ham for the glaze to stick to.

- If a ham has been cured and smoked in a net bag, it may already have a pattern etched into the surface. But even these hams benefit from being scored.

- A ham can be coated with glaze at any point during baking, but every 15 minutes is a good rule of thumb. A glaze works well on a fresh ham, but because of the long cooking time, add it toward the end so it doesn't burn.

VARIETIES

- Fully cooked or ready-to-eat hams need no further preparation. They come with or without the bone. Partially boned is a cut which still has part of the thigh bone, but not big joints.

- The bone adds flavor during the cooking process, but carving can be difficult. Meat expert Bruce Aidells says a whole, 10- to 20-pound bone-in ham is the most flavorful and least wasteful cut. It serves 15 to 20 people with leftovers. Use the bone as you would a ham hock for seasoning soups and bean dishes.

- For smaller groups, Aidells recommends a smaller ham section. The butt-end, which is the upper part of the leg, tends to have more meat than the smaller shank end, which is lower on the leg.

- Partially cooked or ready-to-cook hams are smoked and cured and have been heated to at least 137 degrees during the processing. Aidells says these minimally processed hams tend to have superior flavor and texture.

- Fresh hams, which you may need to special order, haven't been cured or cooked. Cook to an internal temperature of 160.

- Spiral-cut hams, bone in or out, are usually fully cooked. Aidells says these hams tend to dry out and are coated with a glaze made with processed sweeteners. He says a brown sugar and mustard glaze tastes better.

COOKING

- Fully cooked hams can be eaten cold. If you plan to bake it, heat the oven to 325 and cook to an internal temperature of 140. Leftovers, or hams not in their original packaging, should be heated to 160.

- To cook completely, a whole ham will take 15 to 18 minutes per pound to come to temperature. A fully cooked half ham will need to cook for about 18 to 24 minutes per pound.

- Partially cooked hams must be heated at 325 to an internal temperature of 160. A 15- to 20-pound ham needs 18 to 20 minutes per pound. A 5- to 7-pound ham needs 20 to 25 minutes per pound.

LEFTOVERS

- Use for sandwiches, to flavor soups, for croquettes, potato hashes, omelets, casseroles, macaroni and cheese or stir-fries. If you freeze it, wrap meat tightly in aluminum foil and place in an airtight plastic bag. Freeze for no more than 2 months. The thawed meat should be consumed within 2 days.

CARVING

- When carving a ham, use a very sharp, thin blade knife. Cut only the amount you will serve. Leftover sliced ham dries out faster than larger pieces.

- To carve a bone-in ham, cut a few long slices parallel to the bone, then turn the ham so it rests on the cut surface. Make perpendicular slices toward the bone and then cut along the bone to release the slices.

- To carve a boneless ham, cut a few long slices to make a flat surface, then turn the ham onto the cut surface and slice to your preferred thickness.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Eating around town....

Family and close friends know that it's sometimes difficult for me to go out to dinner as a civilian. Why? I rarely order what I want and usually opt for dishes that I think I should be trying.

I can't help myself. Even when it's a dinner I'm paying for. If I eat something I've had before or get something as ordinary as roasted chicken, I feel like I'm wasting a meal.

Recently, a good bud wanted to go to Toscana Kitchen + Bar and eat tortellini. Didn't even have to look at the menu. Caesar salad and tortellini.

Boom! Done.

Me? I hemmed and hawed, trying to decide if I should get one or two of the small plates and, maybe, one of the night's specials. At one point, I said I really wanted to keep it simple and eat Caesar salad and mushroom risotto, but, well, you know, I should probably be more adventurous, blah, blah, blah....

When the waiter came to the table, my pal got the Caesar and tortellini and then demanded that I get the Caesar and the risotto. There was no arguing. (Besides it was good bud's very belated birthday.)

Boom! Done.

Was it really that easy? Yes, it was. And the creamy risotto, with its earthy porcini mushroom broth, was one of the best dishes I've eaten in some time. Sometimes good friends know best.

Other food thoughts...

So where have you been watching the NCAA tournament? (And, let me brag for just one moment, who else has picked 15 out of the Sweet 16 teams? Just wondering... My dearly missed colleague Dave Hale would have been so proud. Syracuse was for you, Dave.)

We headed to Six Paupers in Hockessin on Saturday for snacks, beverages and b-ball.

Chicken wings were wonderfully hot, saucy and spicy, but a side order of Greek salad was disappointing. Hey, Mr. Chef Man, why so stingy with the feta cheese? My salad had microscopic crumbs, at the most. For Telly Savalas's sake -the feta is what makes this salad Greek.

Beard nominations

Delaware natives Tom Douglas and Rebekah Denn are among the 52 finalists for 2009 James Beard Foundation Awards, which honor professionals in the food and beverage industries.

St. Mark's High School graduate Tom Douglas of Tom Douglas Restaurants in Seattle is one of the nominees for Outstanding Restaurateur. (Photo to the right of Douglas was taken at last year's Meals from the Masters Celebrity Chefs' Brunch in Wilmington.)

Douglas is competing against Stephen Starr of the Starr Restaurant Organization in Philadelphia; New York's Keith McNally and Drew Nieporent; and Richard Melman of Chicago's Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises.

Denn, sister of Lt. Gov. Matt Denn, has been honored for best Newspaper Feature Writing with Recipes for a Seattle Post-Intelligencer article "High on the Hairy Hogs: Super-Succulent Imports are Everything U.S. Pork Isn't." Here's link to Denn's blog, Eatallaboutit.com.


A Rising Chef nominee is Michael Solomonov of Zahav in Philadelphia.
Vetri in Philadelphia, owned by Marc Vetri and Jeff Benjamin, has been nominated for Outstanding Service.

Joseba Jimenez de Jimenez, owner of Seattle's Harvest Vine eatery and a frequent guest at Wilmington's annual Meals from the Master's Celebrity Chefs' Brunch (see below), was nominated for Best Northwest chef.

The awards will be presented May 3-4 in New York. For a complete list of nominees, visit www.jamesbeard.org.

Douglas and Jimenez also both will be returning to cook at this year's Celebrity Chefs' Brunch, which takes place from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. April 19 at the Bank of America headquarters, 1100 N. King St., Wilmington.

Tickets for the Meals on Wheels fundraiser are $175. Visit www.mealsfromthemasters.com.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Sunday dinner

Sunday is my favorite day of the week. And Sunday dinner is near and dear to my heart.

Going through some vacation photos recently, I came across this snapshot taken last year at a farmers market in Slovenia.

Those giant barrels were filled with homemade sauerkraut. It was the fastest moving item of the day on that rainy morning in Ljubljana.

Bundled-up, bicycle-riding grandmoms were loading up on the 'kraut. It was so cool to watch.

Sauerkraut is the base for a popular Slovene soup called jota, which tastes MUCH BETTER than it sounds.

This market was one of my favorite places in Ljubljana beside the store of salt. (See photo.) Yep, the Piranske Soline store caters to nothing but amazing salt. The wooden salt spoon I bought there is still one of my favorite items in the kitchen.

I looked at these photos and thought -bingo! Pork and sauerkraut for dinner, along with mashed potatoes (flavored with some of my remaining Slovenia salt) and homemade applesauce.

I'm off to Black Lab Breads in Wilmington for, hopefully! - a loaf of rye bread.

Wine? Maybe Ribolla Gialla, if I can find it, or perhaps we'll just crack open some beer?

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Reader Mail: UPDATED


I'm an early bird with Reader Mail again this week. (Anyone else, uh, preoccupied with their NCAA bracket?)

March Madness is the most wonderful time of the year. Well, after the start of baseball season, that is.

What's going on:

Eric Ruth visits the new Capers & Lemons restaurant. I'll post a link to his Friday Taste column as soon as it goes online.

UPDATE: Here's the link to Ruth's column on Capers & Lemons.

Hey, I just noticed that Niwano Hano, a sushi restaurant at 3602 Kirkwood Highway (long, long ago it was Mikasa) has closed its doors.

And it looked like paper was taken off the windows at Pho Cali - soon-to-be Vietnamese beef noodle house on Kirkwood Highway (next to Pathmark, in the same shopping center as the Kohl's store.) Don't know if it's opened yet. I just did a very quick drive by. More details as they come.

Every Friday (and sometimes earlier) is Reader Mail. You Ask. We Answer. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

Here's what's shaking:

Not necessarily Reader Mail - more like reader phone calls. But I received a few recent queries questioning ingredient amounts in two recent columns by Nancy Coale Zippe that I'd like to address:

IS THIS RIGHT, NANCY?

QUESTION: Reader Ronald Case wondered if 1 tablespoon of nutmeg was correct in the buttermilk coffee cake recipe - on March 11 - that was provided by Marie Gilbert. (Case said his cake tasted bitter.)

ANSWER (PER ZIPPE): I called Marie and questioned her about the amount of nutmeg before using her recipe, and she said it was correct, and that's what made the cake smell so heavenly.

QUESTION: Two readers wanted to know if the ingredients in Valerie's custard-style rice pudding recipe which appeared on March 18 were correct: 1 quart of milk and 5 tablespoons of rice. Both thought it sounded like too much milk and not enough rice.

ANSWER (PER ZIPPE): The ingredients are correct. People who slow cook or bake rice pudding have learned it takes very little rice to make a whole bowl of pudding. Not at all like quick top-of-the stove-style rice.

IS SHANG HAI COMING BACK?

QUESTION: Hi, Ms. Talorico,

We were regular, enthusiastic customers of Shang Hai, particularly enjoying the Chinese (versus American-Chinese) menu before their fire last fall. We have been wondering whether you know - first, whether everyone was OK and/or has recovered from the fire; second, whether it is anticipated that Shang Hai will re-open; third, if not, whether the primary chef is producing his wonderful food elsewhere nearby?

Thanks so much!
Donna Pelletier

ANSWER: Donna, I wish I knew more details about Shang Hai, formerly on Philadelphia Pike in Claymont, but I don't. I know this was one of Eric Ruth's favorite Chinese restaurants. This question came up in a November 2008 Reader Mail post, and I'll repeat what I said then: I wish I had more news - or any news - about any plans to reopen. Owners if you're reading this - or anyone else with information - please email at ptalorico@delawareonline.com and I'll get the word out.

FRIEND OR JUST DELIGHTED FAN?

QUESTION: Just wanted to let you know about my visit to Lamberti's Cucina on Centerville Road. Last Tuesday night after work, I stopped in and talked to Rossana, one of the owners, and met Giovanni, possibly the best chef ever. It was a slow night and Giovanni came out from the kitchen and asked me what I would like. I asked him to decide. Oh, my gosh. I am so lucky I did. He prepared fish with a cream sauce to die for, spinach and rice. It was wonderful! The best.

Dessert was prepared by Giovanni's roommate - a banana dish that was heavenly. It may be out of the way, or forgotten, but it is worth the visit.

Becky

ANSWER: Thanks, Becky. I appreciate your enthusiasm. But a suspicious part of me - (can't help it, I'm a journalist, it's in my DNA) - suspects that this could be a shameless plug for the restaurant. (Are you a friend? Neighbor? Relative?) My apologies if you are not, but this isn't the first time I've gotten an email about Lamberti's in recent months. But I'm willing to give you the benefit of the doubt - especially since you seem so happy with your meal. Just an FYI, readers. Please take note.


WHERE TO GET JUICED

QUESTION: Hello, I enjoy reading your blog on delawareonline.com. Thank you. I over ate this winter and would like to take a break and detox a bit. I read that juices are a nice way to feel more alert, energized, and full of vitality. Is there anywhere in Wilmington or Newark area to get fresh squeezed juice? There used to be a juice bar near the Co-op in Newark.

Any thoughts on kombucha?

Thanks for your answer,
Emme

ANSWER: I remember seeing a sign for Magpie Tea Garden, 1715 Delaware Ave. in Wilmington's Trolley Square; 654-2911; which I believe was (and still is??) a juice bar. But I just called the number and there's no answer.

Main Squeeze Juice Bar at 280 E. Main St., Market East Plaza, Newark, 453-8981, was (and still is??) the place next to Newark Natural Foods (formerly known as the Co-op). I tried calling the phone number and - again - no answer.

I do know that Greenman Juice Bar & Bistro; 227-4909; 12 Wilmington Ave, Rehoboth Beach; is popular, but that's about a two-hour drive from Wilmington.

I've never tried kombucha. I suggest you try calling Newark Natural Foods, 368-5984; or the Harvest Market in Hockessin; 234-6779.

JUST CALL ME ANGEL OF THE MORNING

QUESTION: Hi Patricia,
I was wondering what your thoughts were on Angel's Restaurant on Silverside Road (across from Branmar Plaza). We have eaten there a few times for breakfast and the food has been great- their sweet potato pancakes are awesome. I know they serve lunch and dinner, too- have you been here before? I'd love to know what you think.
Thanks,
Anne



ANSWER: Hi, Anne. No thoughts, because I haven't been there. Readers? What say you about Angel's?

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

"Chopping Block" recap



Anyone who has worked in the restaurant biz - and who has loved it - knows that fluttery, butterfly stomach feeling that happens right before service begins.

It's an adrenaline rush that becomes addictive, even when things start going wonky and you fall into the weeds. I got that rush whether I worked in the front or the back of the house. (But for years, I used to have dreams - nightmares actually - that I forgot to wait on a table and by the time I got to the customers, the kitchen had run out of food. Amateur Freuds, please don't analyze that.)

So that's what was running through my head during tonight's episode of the NBC series "Chopping Block" when the fake restaurants were crowded with patrons. The heat was on.

I like how this reality program, in some ways, captures the behind-the-scenes of the restaurant industry. (Running out of food, trying to push another dish on the menu, getting slammed with tables.)

But I'm not really feeling the heart of this series and, in terms of culinary imagination, it doesn't even come close to "Top Chef." There are no contestants I'm rooting for or particularly like very much right now. Much of the food seems very pedestrian.

I do like the calm, stern authority projected by Marco Pierre White. I want more of him, if anything.

MPW first judged the teams on the perfect table at a restaurant. Watching him sit at one wobbly table - one of my biggest pet peeves! - and convey his disappointment with just one "tsk, tsk" look was worth sitting through this hour.

Highlights:

Contestant Angie - from Philadelphia - who complained that the lamb was so rare, it was still baaaing. (Turns out she was wrong and guest judge and Vogue food critic Jeffrey Steingarten liked the lamb. No wonder her restaurant only got a one Liberty Bell rating from the Philadelphia Inquirer's restaurant critic.)

Designer Nicole Miller and Steingarten smacking around the chefs for wanting to serve Chilean seabass, an endangered fish.

The dude who dared serve Steingarten's wife a slice of five-day-old, farm-raised salmon - and STILL walked away without getting chopped. Wow. But, man, I wouldn't have wanted to have been in the Steingarten house tonight and hear that I ate old fish.

I'm sorry, but contestant Michael Anapol is a dead ringer for Riff Raff from "The Rocky Horror Picture Show." (See photos above.) Every time I see him I want to throw toilet paper at the screen and start dancing "The Time Warp."

Faux hawks are so "Top Chef: Season Three." Glad those two spiky-headed yahoos Mikey and Chad were sent packing.

On top of spaghetti


Forget March Madness. It was Meatball Madness on Monday at the West End Neighborhood House.

Fun morning. Here's my story about judging the meatball contest.

Restaurant winner was Matthew Curtis, owner of Union City Grille.

Community winner was Nicole Durney, whose family owns Timmy D's Deli.

Meatball lovers are very particular about their likes and dislikes. I'm open to all kinds of intrepretations - and not necessarily those in tomato sauce - but I do like a juicy meatball.

The cookbook "Two Meatballs in the Italian Kitchen" (Artisan, 2007) by Pino Luongo and Mark Strausman has a chapter that includes "The Great Meatball Debate."

Strausman says he loves "a sense of abundance you get with a big, juicy meatball."

But Luongo argues that the proportions are "all wrong."

Luongo, born in northern Italian, says that "there's nothing more incongruous than a big meatball and a skinny strand of spaghetti."

Strausman's answer?

"You are insulting a dish invented by Italian immigrants and embraced by every single citizen of the United States."

I agree. Spaghetti and meatballs - made by my mom - would be near the top of my list of last meals.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

The pints of Black & Tan will be flowing....


Just drove by Kelly Logan's House , Trolley Square's, and probably Delaware's, most famous Irish bar. They're gearing up for big afternoon - and night.

The white tent has been popped open, a Guinness truck is parked next to the building and a guy was unwrapping what looked like loads of hotdog rolls at a table near the entrance.

Catherine Rooney's across the street already had a colorful crowd of green-wearing revelers raising mugs and swapping green beads.
Just an FYI, don't park in the parking lot of The Rockford Shops if you're going to one of the Trolley bars. Getting towed is no way to spend a holiday. Don't count on the luck of the Irish.
This time of year always makes me miss the old O'Friel's Irish Pub. (Yep, I'm showing my age, but I did love that bar.) Somebody sing "Danny Boy" for me.

Happy St. Patrick's Day.

"Top Chef" guest judge critically injured


British actress Natasha Richardson, who appeared as a guest chef on "Top Chef: New York" this past season, (12 Days of Christmas episode) is in critical condition in a Montreal hospital after being severely injured in a skiing accident in Quebec, according to published reports.

People.com and IrishCentral.com reported that the Tony award-winning actress and wife of Liam Neeson (pictured to the left) suffered a head injury Monday and is in a Montreal hospital.


People.com said Richardson was initially taken to a hospital near the luxury Mont Tremblant ski resort in Quebec, and was later transferred to the Montreal hospital.

A family member confirmed Richardson had had a skiing accident.

"We know that she has had an accident but we really do not know any more details," said Kika Markham, who is married to Richardson's uncle, Corin Redgrave. "We are very concerned."

Richardson, 45, is the elder daughter of Oscar-winning actress Vanessa Redgrave and the late director Tony Richardson, and belongs to a British acting dynasty.

UPDATE: So heart-breakingly sad. Natasha Richardson dies at age 45.

Friday, March 13, 2009

Reader mail, The Chopping Block other thoughts

Happy Friday. This has seemed like the longest week ever - I haven't caught up yet with the clock-changing - and I'm so glad the weekend is upon us.

What's up with you? I'm cooking some French bistro style dishes, among other things.....


"It really does seem like a pretty cool way of doing the restaurant show," he wrote. "It seems better than the Hell's Kitchen thing, which is more of a study in yelling and less of a show about real restaurant people earning a reward."


I taped CB since I was at the Patti LuPone/Mandy Patinkin show on Wednesday. I gave it a quick look, but would really like to give it another viewing.

Marco Pierre White has a quiet anger that I find much more frightening and chilling than the yappy dog, profanity-laced hissy fits thrown by short-tempered, plate-thrower Gordon Ramsay. (My late dad was a very easy-going guy, but he also perfected the calm, quiet fury 'tude. It could be downright Michael Corleone don't-mess-with-me scary. I could so relate to one contestant who said that a disappointed look from White "pierced the soul.")

I'm enjoying White's armchair, almost professorial approach to food. And I like the food critics judging the contestants. (This past week it was Corby Kummer from The Atlantic, whom I've met before and he's exactly like he was portrayed on TV.)

It'll be interesting to see how contestants Samantha Johnson and her mother, chef Angiebrown, will fair. They own the Philadelphia restaurant Soul, which recently got a one Liberty Bell rating (hit-or-miss) from The Philadelphia Inquirer's Craig LaBan.

What do you think, Second Helpers? Want to read Chopping Block recaps?

In other news:

Veritas Wine & Spirits is a new liquor store - with a six-seat tasting bar - at the Wilmington Riverfront. It sells about 150 wines, 35 beers and 35 spirits. There's also a seating area where customers can page through beverage-related books and magazines. .


Owner Venu Gaddamidi says "We try to showcase varietals and beers that the ordinary drinker may not be used to at prices that we all can appreciate."

Coming soon are wine classes, catering services and more.

Free stuff alert! On Friday, March 20, Rita's Water Ice chain is holding its 17th annual First Day of Spring Italian Ice giveaway. Go to a Rita's that day and "scoop up" a free 10-ounce cup of Italian ice.


Onto the mailbag. Remember You Ask. We Answer. Every Friday. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

(Note to reader who sent me the cheese email: I accidentally deleted your letter (sorry!) Please resend and I'll get the answer.)


THE LAYERED LOOK AT LUCKY'S

QUESTION: Patricia, I just ate the lasagna blue plate special [at Lucky's Coffee Shop], and OMG! Smooth, silky cheese, just the right amount of tomato, not too stiff, not too loose, perfectly seasoned. Ordering lasagna can be chancy at most Italian restaurants, but this was a 10.
Darren

ANSWER: Wow, Darren, that's some endorsement! No offense to Lucky's, which I like very much, but I don't think I would have given the lasagna there a shot. I usually get the burgers or sandwiches or pancakes.

But, there you go, readers, lasagna at Lucky's was a lucky choice.

LOVE THOSE BLACK LAB LOAVES

QUESTION: I totally agree with you about Black Lab Breads. Everything they make is wonderful. Just try and get some pizza bread when the Eagles are playing! They make the best challah anywhere in the city, and we've tried them all.
Beryl Gamiel

ANSWER: I try to stay away Beryl, but when the crusty loaves at Black Lab Breads start calling my name, I'm there faster than dough rises. I'm so happy that Delaware has a caring bread baker like Barry Ciarrocchi.


Thursday, March 12, 2009

A whole new meaning to "cheesesteak wit"


I've never bought or eaten Hot Pockets, a confession that once left some of my colleagues incredulous.

Having a freezer full of premade, microwavable food isn't in my DNA. It just doesn't sound appealing to me. I guess, I'd rather make my own sandwich then nuke a sodium-filled convenience snack.

So I'm fairly certain I'm going to skip the new Tony Luke's line of frozen cheesesteaks. A FROZEN cheesesteak??? This scares the bejeezes out of me. What the heck happens to the sacred, crusty roll, which is the backbone of any great cheesesteak?
Rick Nichols, a food writer for The Philadelphia Inquirer, who is loyal to the city's beloved sandwich, put his stomach on the line to try the frozen cheesesteak. Here's his report.

Patti LuPone and Mandy Patinkin


Went to see Patti LuPone and Mandy Patinkin last night at the DuPont Theatre and I offer this three word review: Go. Go. Go.

If you're a fan of musical theater, this is a must-see performance. Wilmington is one of the few East Coast cities where these Broadway legends are performing their revue. The pair are accompanied on piano by Patinkin's longtime pianist, Paul Ford.

Yes, LuPone sings the show-stopping "Don't Cry for Me Argentina" (please, please, please! don't let Madonna be your first thought when it comes to this ballad) and Patinkin does "Oh, What a Circus" - both from "Evita." Both are in as fine form and chill-bump inducing voice as when they won Tony Awards for the musical in 1980.

But it's also amazing to watch these long-time friends interact and skillfully maneuver around Stephen Sondheim's sometimes tongue-tying lyrics such as in "(Not) Getting Married Today" from "Company" and Franklin Shepard Inc" from "Merrily We Roll Along."

LuPone told The News Journal she and Patinkin don't really dance, but they do perform a "dance" while seated in rolling chairs that will have you chuckling - as will "April in Fairbanks."

The memorable show includes musical numbers from "South Pacific", "Showboat", "Into the Woods", "Gypsy," "Little Shop of Horrors" and "Carousel."

In the second act, there's lots of "Carousel" - maybe too much "Carousel" - but then I've never been a big fan of the production. When I mentioned this to my mother, she rolled her eyes and then gave me a lecture about appreciating this Rodgers & Hammerstein classic and how it offers one of the most beautiful and affecting scores of all time. (Some families discuss sports, others debate the merits of certain musicals....)

Anyway, Patinkin, the director of the show, can do no wrong in my opinion - he's had my heart since "Yentl" - and I'm already planning to see it again before it closes on Sunday.

And you just may see the pair around town the next few days. We saw Patinkin and LuPone enjoying an after show meal together in the Hotel du Pont's Lobby Lounge.

If you go to the show, I believe Deep Blue Bar & Grill on 11th Street offers before and after-theater specials.

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Food section round-up

The popularity of Spanish cuisine continues to grow.

(Frugality, apparently, is the word of the day.)

Also:

Former "Top Chef" contestant Tre Wilcox (left), Seattle restaurateur (and Delaware native) Tom Douglas, Bryan Sikora, of Kennett Square, Pa.'s acclaimed Talula's Table, James Beard Foundation Best Mid-Atlantic Chef semi-finalist Jay Caputo, and New York City executive Chef Ben Pollinger, of Oceana, will be banging pots and pan at this year's Meals From the Masters Celebrity Chefs' Brunch.

The Meals on Wheels culinary fundraiser will be held April 19 from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at the Bank of America headquarters in downtown Wilmington. The cost is $175. The more casual Evening With the Masters celebration on April 17 from 6 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. at the Center on the Riverfront will feature dishes from more than 10 area restaurants. Tickets are $75.

For more information, visit www.mealsonwheelsde.org.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

The Glutton - Regular Guy Grub

Back in December, Arts & Entertainment editor Peter Bothum ate a mega sandwich known as The Glutton - and lived to write about it.

Here's a revisit:

West Chester's The Note has become a must-visit for those seeking rock Nirvana.

But the club (142 E. Market St., West Chester, Pa., [484] 947-5713), has also become known for The Glutton ($9.95), which is any sandwich or burger on the menu served between two grilled cheese sandwiches.

The new rock club, which is co-owned by "Jackass" and "Viva La Bam" star Bam Margera, has served up a lineup of great national acts - including Eagles of Death Metal, Blues Traveler and The Supersuckers - since opening earlier this year. The Tressels, from Drexel Hill, Pa., are among the superb regional acts who have headed bills there.

But people are also coming to take on The Glutton, says head cook Chris Stasen. The idea for the sandwich was the result of a recent late-night, booze-fueled brainstorming session at the bar, when a food guru from Stasen's crew blurted out the bizarre suggestion to use grilled cheeses instead of buns to create the monster concoction.

"I wish there was a better story, but that's it. It was just the most ridiculous thing," said Stasen, who lives in West Chester. "It was, 'The only thing that could make [the sandwiches] better is that."

And the Glutton option does indeed take a sandwich at The Note to a new level. I went with a classic burger (lettuce, cheese and tomato) along with bacon, stuffed between two grilled cheese sandwiches.

Yes, I finished it, but I was on the ropes by the time I got to the last bites.

Perhaps I was inspired by the Bam. He was in town Monday for a concert at The Note by Seattle's The Supersuckers, a national act that Mr. Margera probably personally booked to coincide with his visit back home.

He's a pretty humble guy -- he even waited in line to get in to his home venue and rocked out during the show with his wife while standing on the stairs leading up to The Note's posh balcony.

But there's nothing humble about The Glutton. Stasen says he thinks the Texas burger -- smothered with barbecue sauce -- is the optimum filler.

"It sounds disgusting, but it's not."

- Peter Bothum

Asian grocery store soup

Yesterday, I felt a headachy, change-of-weather cold sneaking up and wanted to nip it in the bud.

Only one thing would do: Asian grocery store soup.

Well, that's what I call my homemade chicken stock based soup because most of the ingredients that go into it come from an Asian grocer.

Over the weekend, I made a big pot of chicken stock from the carcass of leftover roasted chicken. (Never throw out your carcass - even if you can't make a stock right away. Just put it in a zip-lock freezer bag and toss in the freezer. Keep a separate bag in the freezer to store vegetable trimmings such as onions, celery and carrots.) Whenever you're ready for stock, toss everything into a slow cooker along with a good helping of salt, some peppercorns, a bay leaf or two and maybe a whole clove or two of garlic as well as herbs like parsley and thyme. (This is a good way to use any extra vegetables you have in the vegetable bin.) Cover with cold water and put the lid on the pot. Let it cook on low for about 7 hours. Strain and you'll have the base for soup of the Gods.

There's no real recipe for Asian grocery store soup, but it does require a trip to the store if you don't have the ingredients.

I love shopping Asian grocers. If you're unfamiliar or intimidated by exotic ingredients, I highly recommend a handy paperback called "The Asian Grocery Store Demystified" (Renaissance Books) by Linda Bladholm. She gives descriptions and provides illustrations of the bottles, bags, noodles, vegetables and fruit frequently found in these markets.

I went to Young's Oriental Grocery Store, 2017 Kirkwood Highway in Elsmere, and picked up baby bok choy, gingerroot, fresh snowpeas, rice stick (as thin as angel hair pasta) and miso paste.

I also bought a package of their own kim chee - look for this spicy Korean pickled cabbage in the back of the store packed in clear plastic containers - to eat later in the week along with a stir-fry. Some of the other containers looked really good - I definitely have come back and try the spicy pork shoulder soon.

When I got home, I chopped fresh ginger and some garlic and tossed it in the bottom of a pot, lightly filmed with canola oil, that was set over medium heat. Cook just until you can smell the garlic and ginger aromas, but do not brown. Then I added a small scoop of miso and whisked it around the pan as I added the chicken stock. Whisk until the miso dissolves. (The miso is optional.)

This is where creativity comes into play. I also added a splash of soy sauce and a couple drips of fish sauce - Three Crabs brands - because I like it, but some people may be turned off by the pungent odor. (A little rice vinegar or mirin is even good.)

Turn the heat up to high. Next, thinly sliced carrots went into the pot and when the stock began to boil, I slipped in the rice stick, which are dry, thin and brittle semi-transparent noodles that turn opaque white after cooking. (NOTE: You can cook the noodles separately, if you want a more brothy soup. The noodles will absorb some of the liquid as they cook and they will cloud the stock, but not affect the taste. It's up to you. I'm lazy and don't feel like cleaning up more than one pot. I also use thin noodles because they cook faster. Sloth is thy name.)

Cook until the noodles are al dente - only a few minutes - and then toss in the chopped baby bok choy, snow peas - no need to chop them - and sliced mushrooms. Cook a few minutes more - just until vegetables are crisp tender.

If you want a protein, add raw, peeled shrimp along with the vegetables and cook until the shrimp turns pink, about 3-4 minutes at the most.

Ladle the soup into bowls and sprinkle with sliced scallions and, maybe, a handful of fresh mung bean sprouts. Eat with a spoon and chopsticks.

If you wanted some added spice, pass around a bottle of Sriacha sauce - the spicy Thai condiment that looks like ketchup - and squeeze some on the top. Enjoy.

Monday, March 9, 2009

That's good dough


I was going to check out the Metropolitan Bakery bread selection at Francine's over the weekend.

But I couldn't resist the siren call from Wilmington's own Black Lab Breads.

Sunday morning, I stopped in for a black olive baguette for dinner and - at the last minute - also picked up a loaf of apricot-pistachio bread to eat for breakfast with a cup of coffee. (The crust is excellent on this bread that's not too sweet; get it sliced.)

I made a roasted chicken-apple-walnut salad sandwich today with two slices of the leftover apricot bread. Delicious.

Brick Hotel in Georgetown

Not sure what happened on Friday, but my "forks up" review of Tavern on the Circle at the Brick Hotel didn't make it online.

Here's the box and the scoop.

Address: Tavern on the Circle at the Brick Hotel, 18 The Circle, Georgetown: 855-5800; http://www.thebrickhotel.com/

HOURS: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Thu.; 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; and 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun. Reservations recommended.

THE SCOOP: Executive chef and part-owner Joseph Sapienza proves there's so much more to Sussex County dining than scrapple and plates of chicken and dumplings.

TASTEFUL FINDS: Chincoteague oyster stew ($8); cast-iron charred scallops ($12); grilled pork chop with rainbow chard and cranberries and sweet potato puree ($19); and warm cherry cobbler ($7).


By PATRICIA TALORICO

GEORGETOWN - When I told my New Castle County eating posse I was dining in Georgetown, few wanted to jump in the car and join me for dinner.

Most gave me quizzical looks. Georgetown? Really? Why not Rehoboth Beach, the Sussex County sandbox well-known for its innovative cuisine? Or, perhaps, Lewes, the state's up-and-coming dining destination?

Fair or not, there is lingering upstate prejudice toward Sussex restaurants that aren't in beach resort towns. Some people believe, culinarily speaking, that Sussex is simply the home of chicken - and more chicken. And to be perfectly honest, I wasn't sure what to expect at the Tavern on the Circle restaurant, inside the newly renovated Brick Hotel, in Georgetown.

The eaters who didn’t join me missed out, and I'm happy to say that two of the most satisfying dishes I've had in recent months were made by the Tavern's executive chef and part-owner Joseph Sapienza.

The last time I ate in Georgetown, I had a ubiquitous, yet delicious, plate of chicken and slippery dumplings at Smith's Family Restaurant before interviewing celebrity journalist and novelist Dominick Dunne, who was covering the 2005 Walt Disney Co. shareholders trial for Vanity Fair magazine.

At that time, Smith's, a down-home-style eatery on Market Street, was one of the few places to dine in Georgetown when Dunne, actor Sidney Poitier, former Disney CEO Michael Eisner and Hollywood talent agent Michael S. Ovitz stormed into town for this clash-of-the-titans showdown.

The Tavern on the Circle wasn't yet in operation. In fact, it's hard to believe that the Brick Hotel, a stately, three-story Federal and Greek revival structure built in 1836 and one of Sussex's oldest brick buildings, had once been slated for demolition to make way for the state Chancery Court building.

The hotel once had been a temporary courthouse, a meeting place for northern sympathizers during the Civil War, and the home of a Wilmington Trust branch for about 40 years. It was eventually saved in a land swap, and Lynn Lester purchased the building a few years ago. Major renovations on the 14-room hotel began in January 2008, and it opened in late December.

Lester says interest in the Brick's restaurant has been strong, especially at lunch, among the local business community, lawyers, judges and area politicians.

The 100-seat main dining room is a perfectly fine space, but it's not nearly as charming as the front 35-seat dining area, known as the Public Square, with its cozy tables and two gas fireplaces.With its mirrors, stained glass and polished wooden floors, the restaurant is upscale and refined without slipping into old-fogy stodginess. The dining crowd is decidedly on the mature side - more than half were probably card-carrying members of AARP - and most seemed to know each other well.

Chef Sapienza, who used to run his grandparents Villa Rosa restaurant on Longneck Road in Millsboro, has crafted a menu that has both Northern and Southern influences while also offering a few South Carolina-inspired low-country dishes. When is the last time you saw frogmore stew - a one-pot boil of rockfish, potatoes, corn, clams, crab and shrimp - on a menu in Delaware?

Sapienza says his goal is to use high-quality ingredients in dishes that appeal to both the eye and the palate. The menu will change seasonally, and an area farmer will be growing vegetables exclusively for the restaurant. "It's important for us to include and support local farmers and businesses," says the chef who braises lamb shanks ($20) in beer produced by Milton's own Dogfish Head Brewery.

The dish that I look forward to eating again is Sapienza's delectable Chincoteague oyster stew ($8). He uses cream from Lewes Dairy and blends it with a whisper of brandy and shallots. Fresh, briny oysters are gently bathed in the milky broth but still remain plump and sweet.The restaurant's other culinary gem is the grilled pork chop ($19) that is, since we're talking about hams, as big as Hulk Hogan's fist. The juicy and robust chop pairs beautifully with a side of rainbow chard sauteed with cranberries and a hearty pile of sweet potato puree.

The four cast-iron charred scallops ($12), served with fruit preserves, applewood smoked lardons, rosemary oil and fig syrup over a bed of microgreens, is a good first-course sharing plate. The Tavern salad ($6) hits all the right sweet-salty-sour notes with its sliced Gala apples, Point Reyes blue cheese, toasted black walnuts, slices of crisp ham and crunchy fresh greens tossed in an apple cider vinaigrette.

Sauteed shrimp and grits ($19) with andouille sausage, green onions, clams, black-eyed peas and sweet peppers is the dish I wanted to like more than I did. Baby clams, served on the side, were tough, and our server's description of the andouille as "not really spicy" wasn’t entirely accurate. The spice level overpowered the other flavors, particularly the perfectly cooked shrimp.