Happy New Year!

I'm don't know about you, but I'm over the holiday hustle and bustle. Don't feel like doing much cooking.

My part of the New Year's Eve menu will be as simple as possible: Tacos made from a slow-roasted pork shoulder that's been studded with garlic and rubbed with herbs and spices.

Maybe, I'll also buy homemade salsa from the produce stand at the Riverfront Market to go along with the tortilla chips and guacamole.

Drink a decent bubbly - but don't drive - and have a great evening. Happy New Year.

Popcorn at home

This week is one of the busiest times for the movies. Not only are schools out, but this week is the final target for the films hoping to draw Oscar nominations. In case you did not know, as long as a movie plays in one theater for one week within Los Angeles city limits, it's Oscar-eligible.

Anyway, you can't have a movie without popcorn, but what if you prefer movies at home? Then go to www.kernelseasons.com for all your popcorn needs. They have it all available online to order, from popping machines to movie-theater topping oil, which I've tried, and it is just like what they pour over popcorn at the theaters. I also suggest the Popcorn Spritzer, a zero-fat, zero-calorie butter topping in a spray can.

There are also more than a dozen different salts (or seasonings) to try: Nacho Cheddar, Caramel, Apple Cinnamon, Cajun, Chocolate Marshmallow, Ranch and more. Check out the whole list of seasonings at the Web site, and enjoy.

Cruise ahead without me: UPDATE

My idea of a nightmare vacation is going on a cruise.

I don't love being on a boat - seasickness never fails to hit me - and just the idea of being cooped up for a long period of time - yeah, I know they are big boats - makes my skin crawl.

Someone else can enjoy the all-you-can-eat buffets. I don't think I'm missing a thing. My heart will go on never experiencing being out on the open sea.

Now, this very sad AP story about a missing woman, who loved to cook, makes me more certain than ever that I'm never, ever, going on a cruise. (See below):

UPDATE: According to a story filed today, Dec. 30, by the AP, the woman's family believes she might have jumped overboard, but the FBI is still investigating whether someone pushed her.

Someone commented that I'm being unsensitive - and since this may now be a suicide, they're probably right. Mea culpa. But let me clarify why I don't like the idea of a cruise: The possibility of plunging into the ocean, alone, in the night, and no one knows you have fallen, reminds me of one of the most frightening movies I have ever seen Open Water.

MIAMI - The U.S. Coast Guard suspended its search Monday for a Florida woman who authorities believe plunged from a cruise ship balcony into the waters off Mexico's coast on Christmas night.

A surveillance camera on the Norwegian Pearl ship showed someone falling overboard at 8 p.m. that night, authorities said. About eight hours later, Raymond Seitz reported his wife, Jennifer, missing.

Coast Guard and Mexican naval vessels conducted an "exhaustive" search through the weekend covering more 4,200 square miles off the popular resort town of Cancun, where the Norwegian Pearl had just visited. Mexican authorities said they would continue their search for another 48 hours.

FBI spokesman Mike Leverock says agents met the ship at the dock in Miami on Sunday, collected materials and "are still trying to determine if a crime occurred."

Norwegian Cruise Line said it is "cooperating fully" with the FBI.
"Our thoughts and prayers are with the family and friends of the guest during this difficult time," the company said in a news release.

Raymond Seitz has not been charged with any crime, authorities said Monday.

His wife was a freelance writer, having written articles for The Tampa Tribune, Florida Today, and penned a story for an online site titled, "Battling the Bulge Onboard," about how not to gain weight while onboard a ship.

On her Web site, Seitz described herself as an "avid traveler and an amateur chef." She was previously a reporter for Florida Today, a newspaper in Melbourne.

A passenger on the ship said Seitz and her new husband stood out among the vacationers onboard with "large and raw personalities."

Many of the passengers saw them as contestants on an on-board game called "The Not-So-Newlywed Game," modeled after a 1960s TV quiz show. The game was also carried on the ship's closed-circuit TV channel.

"They stood out a lot more than other people," Jim Nestor, a retired police officer, told NBC's Today show. Nestor and his wife also appeared on the game show.

Starting in June, Jennifer Seitz worked as a temporary elections worker in Polk County. Co-worker Judy Walker said Seitz had a "very bubbly personality."

"Very likable," Walker said. "We're just really shocked now, to be honest."

Soup is good food

Where do you go for soup?





As in get in the car, drive and sit down in a restaurant or local eatery for a steamy bowl of utter deliciousness?





I'd go out of my way for the tomato garlic parmesan soup at Cajun Kate's at the Booth's Corner Farmers Market. And all of Hockessin knows about the pumpkin mushroom soup at the Back Burner restaurant and the Back Burner to Go.

But I want to hear some other ideas... Where do you go "bowling"? What places have the best food in a bowl - i.e. chili, stews and soups.

Comment, comment, comment.

Dinner went swimmingly.......

Hope you're enjoying a day off or - if you're like me - you're sitting in the office with a skeleton crew and eating leftover Christmas goodies. (I just had a slice of fruitcake - yes more fruitcake!- along with some very sweet and tasty Clementines.)

My Christmas Eve Feast of Seven Fishes went swimmingly. So successful, in fact, that we're going to keep the tradition going next year. (Wow, even the meat lovers didn't miss the beef tenderloin.) Why did we ever let this tradition lapse?

Serving sparkling wine and mini crab cakes as an appetizer certainly helped. Not too many people out there who don't like crab cakes. Even the kids ate them. (If the kids are Sponge Bob fans, just tell 'em, they're crabby patties. Gone in minutes.)

While not a fish, I also had mini "pigs in blankets." (It's another Christmas Eve tradition.) I used Applegate Farms organic smoked cocktail franks that are made without nitrates. You wrap the franks with slices of refrigerator Croissant rolls - baked at 375 degrees for about 12 minutes. Serve with a side dish of sweet and spicy mustard. The franks look good on a plate and the dish is always a big winner with kids as well as adults.

Cheese spreads, nuts and fresh fruit rounded out the munchies.

For one of the main dishes, I made "Barefoot Contessa's" Ina Garten's Seafood gratin - but doubled the recipe and tweaked it slightly. (The recipe is below.)

I used rockfish instead of halibut, used 1 1/2 pounds of large shrimp and added in 1/2 pound of scallops, which I sliced in half.

Normally, I would have made my own fish stock (use shrimp shells and fish bones) but I didn't have enough time. Thankfully Janssen's Market in Greenville carries homemade fish stock. (Look for it in the frozen food aisle. Janssen's always comes through!) And it was very good, if not better than my own.

I made and refrigerated the gratin earlier in the day (I doubled it - so I had enough for a 13-by-9-inch pan and one other smaller size Corningware casserole). While I mixed up everything for the bread crumb topping - except for the melted butter - I didn't mix it and spread onto the top of the casserole until right before the pans went into the oven. I wanted the bread to stay crispy.

This make-ahead gratin is easy entertaining and everyone loved the dish. It's rich, but not too overbearing. We also had a long slow roasted cherry tomato "confit" with marinated artichokes, and Caesar salad with anchovies, among the other dishes...

For dessert, it was the usual pies, cookies, Clementines etc.

But I also ordered a Buche de Noel from the Hotel du Pont. (Yep, we crossed cultures with this French "yule log" dessert.)

It was moist and creamy and went nicely with after dinner drinks of vin Santo, a Tuscan sweet wine.

Here's Ina Garten's recipe from her cookbook "Barefoot at Home" (Clarkson Potter, 2006):

Seafood Gratin

For the sauce:

1 cup seafood stock or clam juice

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons good white wine, such as Chablis, divided

3 tablespoons tomato puree

1/2 teaspoon saffron threads

8 ounces raw shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cut in half crosswise

8 ounces raw halibut, cut into 1-inch chunks (I USED ROCKFISH INSTEAD, REMOVE THE SKIN)

8 ounces cooked lobster meat, cut into 1-inch chunks

NOTE: I ALSO USED SEA SCALLOPS, OPTIONAL)

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 cups julienned leeks, white and light green parts (2 large)

1 1/2 cups julienned carrots (3 carrots)

1 cup panko (Japanese dried bread crumbs) (NOTE: INSTEAD OF PANKO, I PUT LEFTOVER ITALIAN BREAD INTO A FOOD PROCESSOR AND USED THE CRUMBS.)

1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan

2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves (NOTE: I USED FRESH THYME INSTEAD OF TARRAGON)

1 tablespoon minced garlic (2 cloves)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Place 4 individual gratin dishes on sheet pans. (If recipe is doubled serve it in a 14 by 9 1/4-inch oval gratin dish.)

For the sauce:
Combine the stock, cream, 1/2 cup of the wine, the tomato puree, and saffron in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and add the shrimp. After 3 minutes, use a slotted spoon to remove the shrimp to a bowl. Add the halibut to the stock for 3 minutes, until just cooked through, and remove to the same bowl. (IF using the scallops, poach for 3 minutes, and remove to the bowl.) Add the cooked lobster to the bowl.
Continue to cook the sauce until reduced by half, about 12 minutes. Mash 1 tablespoon of the butter together with the flour. Whisk the butter mixture into the sauce along with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Simmer, stirring constantly, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Set aside.
Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in a medium saute pan. Add the leeks and carrots and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, until softened. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of wine, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and cook for 5 to 10 minutes, until tender. Set aside.
Combine the panko, Parmesan, parsley, tarragon, and garlic. Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter and mix it into the crumbs until they're moistened.
Divide the seafood among the 4 gratin dishes. Strew the vegetables on top of each dish. Pour the sauce equally over the seafood and vegetables and spoon the crumbs evenly on top. Bake for 20 minutes, until the top is browned and the sauce is bubbly. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.

Merry Christmas

I hope you have a peaceful holiday. We've got a date with Santa. See you Friday.

Mashed potato mash up

In a recent Taste column looking back on some of the most memorable dishes from 2008, I mentioned the mashed potatoes at Culinaria. Customers love the creamy hand-mashed spuds.

But a letter included on last Friday's Reader Mail post from reader Adam Warner took issue with the mashed potatoes at Culinaria and the restaurant itself.

Culinaria owners Pam Grabowski and Ezio Reynaud sent me an email response:

Wow, Pat, our mashed potatoes sure struck a nerve for Adam Warner.

We want to make sure your readers know that we are not "upscale." Culinaria is a small
joint in [the Branmar Plaza] shopping center and we have no delusions otherwise.

Fine Dining? No, not at all.

Inventive and dynamic cuisine? Once in a while we'll take a chance and try to put something creative on the "additions menu", but mostly we offer straight forward food that we hope will please a wide range of tastes.

Oh, and our offensive grilled marinated chicken breast and mashed potatoes is $15.75 not $19.

By the way, Adam, we agree with your list of "Fine Dining" establishments, they are some of our favorites as well.

Happy Eating Wherever You Go!

Pam & Ezio

That's a spicy pizza

Crossed Gerardo's Pizza off my list recently. If you like pizza with some kick in its sauce, this is the place, and overall the pizza here gets a thumbs up for sure. Extra credit for putting the pepperoni underneath the cheese, a style I wish more places used. The french fries were nothing special but that's only a minor quibble.

If you never have, try Gerardo's Pizza at 114 N. Union St. in Wilmington. They're closed Sundays and Mondays, and are open 3-9 p.m. every other day, staying open until 10 p.m. on Fridays. Check out their entire menu at www.gerardospizza.com

Feast of Fishes

The Feast of the Seven Fishes is making a comeback in my family this year.

In recent years, we've let lapse this Italian-American Christmas Eve custom of serving seven varieties of seafood.

When I began planning a menu this year, I came up with six fishes, but still needed inspiration for the seventh fish.

My pal and frequent traveling buddy Katie invited me along to the Seven Fish Dinner at Toscana Kitchen + Bar which was held earlier this month in Trolley Square.

My photos aren't great. Sorry. It was dark in the restaurant and I was doing more talking and eating than concentrating on photography. (We had a really fun group at my table. That was a pleasant surprise. Once during a wine dinner, I got stuck at table with a drunk professor who kept dropping f-bombs and insulting people at the table. Watching this sloppy bozo was funny for a while, until it got really annoying.)

The calamari stuffed with chorizo cornbread and smoked tomato sauce was my favorite course. (Photo above.) Chef Clifton Aycock got it just right - the calamari wasn't at all tough and it married perfectly with the slightly spicy stuffing and smoky pool of tomato sauce. I could eat this quite often and be very happy. I thought about making it Christmas Eve, but I will save this kind of elaborate dish for another day. I need something a little more simple.

Another winner was the scallops and American roe. It was served in its shell with custard glaze. The accompanying wine was Germano Ettore Binel 2006, which cut through the cream sauce with some zest that wasn't too citrusy. The wine is a blend of Chardonnay and Riesling. You can buy it Moore Brothers Wine Company.



The ravioli of lobster and mushrooms (below) was perfectly fine, but I've had lobster ravioli before. It didn't wow me like the calamari. Moore Brothers matched the dish with Bardolino Superiore Corte Gardoni 2006 - a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and a touch of Sangiovese. It's a wine from the Veneto region of Italy.

The Anjou pear tartlet (below) with anglaise sauce was a beautiful presentation, but, unfortunately, the pear wasn't poached long enough. It was so hard, in fact, we had to saw at it with a knife. I gave up and mostly ate the puff pastry and anglaise. It was paired with a very nice Moscato d'Asti Giuseppe Domenico Vajra 2007, a soft sparkler.




I'm still tweaking my Christmas Eve menu as I write this, but I'm definitely making Ina Garten's Seafood Gratin. It's a one-dish casserole that seems both simple and elegant. I have no desire for last minute cooking on Christmas Eve and being a slave to the kitchen. I just want to spend quality time with family and friends and toast the holiday. Here's Ina's recipe.

Please, Sarah Palin, don't cook Rudolph....

Run, run Rudolph.

Reindeer meat is very popular in Scandinavian countries and among other people living close to the Arctic Circle, according to Niall Edworthy in "The Curious World of Christmas" (Perigee, 2008.)

Smoked roast reindeer is thinly sliced for sandwiches or sauteed as a main dish. Reindeer meatballs also are sold in cans in Alaska. (Insert your favorite Sarah Palin joke here.)

In case you're wondering, reindeer meat, apparently, has a mild gamy flavor.

We'll just take Edworthy's word on it. Eating reindeer, especially this month, just doesn't seem..... right.

Window shopping

I don't always write about food and restaurants.


Today, I had an article about store window displays.




Above is Gus Bottiglieri, 67, dressing the window of Wright & Simon in downtown Wilmington. The classic men's store has always hired a professional window dresser.



I stopped into Cherishables in Trolley Square and couldn't believe it when owner Matthew Garwacki told me his big red bow decoration is now 20 years old!



Hard to believe, Harry (as Ashburn would say.)


Every Christmas when I was kid, we would go to Wanamaker's in Philly and see the holiday light show. I loved that tradition. I think I need to make a stop there soon.......

After shopping pick me up

Had a marathon Christmas shopping day on Saturday because:

1. I've been a big procrastinator this year.

2. I was hoping to find good sales.

By the end of the day - and after searching four stores for a toy that I still can't find - we needed a big pick-me-up. (I don't even want to think about all the wrapping I have to do tonight.)

Parked the car outside of Eclipse Bistro in Wilmington and one of the owners Nick Georgi greeted us at the door.

After glasses of pinot grigio, great mini crabs, a crunchy giant wonton stuffed with shrimp with black beans that was like an edible Christmas present, and gorgonzola/caramelized onion flatbread - all was right again in the world.

Probably didn't need the chocolate torte that followed, but who could resist a sugar-rush after all that shopping?

The Eclipse guys - who also own Dome Restaurant & Bar in Hockessin - are planning to open a new Italian restaurant, Capers & Lemons, in February.

Details to come. Stay tuned.

Reader mail (UPDATED)

It's late. But it's here.

Reader mail. You ask. We answer. Every Friday. Got a dining question, email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

For today's Taste column, I compiled some of the best dishes I tried this year.

Not everyone agrees with my list. It's my list. If you don't like it, make your own list.

And one reader did just that. Here's what's in the mailbag:

AVID FOODIE SHARES HIS OPINION

QUESTION: Patricia,
I'm sorry but I can't help but strongly oppose your selection of Culinaria for your Best Tastes of '08. I am an avid foodie and frequent diner of Delaware's finest dining establishments, but after several trips to Culinaria, I believe it's one of the most disappointing "upscale"
restaurants in the state and region.
You know what the secret is for those mashed potatoes? Loads and loads of butter and salt. The menu selection is pretty tepid and lacking imagination, too. Chicken and mashed potatoes for 19 bucks? Truly offensive. If North Wilmingtonians truly believe that Culinaria is a taste of inventive and dynamic cuisine, they are sorely mistaken.
I have no personal vendetta against the restaurant, I just wish that perhaps in the future, writers and critics can include other Delaware-area establishments like Moro, Bistro on the Brandywine, Domaine Hudson or the Blue Pear Bistro. Steer people towards those and then you/they will truly understand the definition of fine dining.
-Adam C. Warner
Delaware Resident

ANSWER: Adam,
Thanks for the email and sharing your comments.
Domaine Hudson, Moro, Bistro on the Brandywine and the Blue Pear Bistro are all very good dining establishments. And yes we have, indeed, written about all of these restaurants in The News Journal - photo above is Jim Barnes, owner of Blue Pear Bistro - and have shared them with readers. But maybe not all this year. Most have been critically reviewed by Eric Ruth, who shares the Taste column with me.
Today's article was a compilation of the restaurants I wrote about or reviewed in 2008. Many are new establishments, not all fine dining. Eric may be sharing his own list in an upcoming column.
You may not agree - taste is subjective - but there are apparently quite a few people out there who love Culinaria's mashed potatoes. When I was dining there earlier this year - and the hostess told us the kitchen ran out of potatoes - several people standing and sitting near us at the bar began talking about how much they loved the potatoes. These were unsolicited comments; no one knew I was a News Journal food writer.
And, yes, as a professional food writer for more than 10 years, I do understand the definition of fine dining. But this column wasn't only about fine dining establishments. For instance, I certainly wouldn't call the Claymont Steak Shop a fine dining restaurant - nor, I believe, would its owners - but I feel very comfortable recommending it to News Journal readers. That's a heck of a good cheesesteak.
Thanks again for writing.

UPDATE 12/23/08: Culinaria owners respond.

ANOTHER FOODIE DOES TOO: FORGET PHILLY, GO TO CLAYMONT!

QUESTION: Patricia,
I grew up eating those Cheese steaks in Claymont. That's one of the first meals I have each time I return for a visit. Call off the search, you won't find a better one, even in Philly.
Regards
Jeffrey Weidel
Vice President, Halldin Public Relations
Roseville, California

ANSWER: Woo-hoo, Claymont gets a California shout-out - photo to the left is some Claymont Steak Shop fans - and Second Helpings has readers across the country. (Oh boss, boss? Someone needs a raise for Christmas...Hint, hint....)

FRUITCAKE FANS UNITE!

QUESTION: Hi Ms. Talorico. I just wanted to let you know I tried your [fruitcake] recipe last weekend! I was inspired by your article, and thought the fruitcake sounded good. My only previous attempts at fruitcake was a chocolate cherry fruitcake which had also come from the newspaper. I made it pretty much like you did. Today I brought it in to work to share...everyone said it was really good. I can only assume they weren't lying. Seriously, it's even been enjoyed by my son's picky fiance! I'll be sharing it along with my Christmas cookies to friends and co-workers. Thanks for a great recipe. No doorstops for me!
Carol

ANSWER: Carol, this kind of news warms my heart. I got a lot of fruitcake grief - that is, until friends, family and colleagues all tried a slice of my modernized homemade fruitcake.

WHERE THERE'S SMOKE, THERE'S BARBECUE

QUESTION: I saw on the Delawareonline blog site you mentioned Famous Dave's BBQ. Have you ever tried Durham's BBQ? It's on Elkton-Newark Road just across the state line into Maryland across from Wawa. I haven't been there in a while, but I remember it being pretty good. They have brisket, ribs, ham, sausages, kielbasa. It is take out only.

Thought you might want to give it a try.

Chuck Leary Jr.

ANSWER: We've been big fans of Durham's BBQ. I've written about Durham's several times. And I know some people love getting their smoked turkeys for the holidays. Readers: If you haven't been, you need to check it out.

NEW DINING TRENDS?

QUESTION: Ms. Talorico,
A friend of mine told me about recent trends in California with restaurant menus designed to make fine dining affordable, such as the recent proliferation of special fixed-price menus and the upsurge of more casual bistros, brasseries or even sushi. These are fixed menus with multi courses at more affordable prices, which allow restaurants to gauge their ordering more accurately and balance costs better while still offering their customers a taste of luxury. Do you know any restaurateurs in Delaware that are trying some of these new tactics?
Thanks!
Jim

ANSWER: Restaurateurs? Can you share some info?

UPDATE: Here's an email I received from Tom Hudson, owner of Domaine Hudson in Wilmington.

In response to your reader's question, we are currently offering 3 courses for $35 to help diners to enjoy good food without big prices. Our online reservation system, OpenTable.com, recently held a nationwide event called Appetite Stimulus Plan, where all participating restaurants offered 3-$35 menus. This was so successful that we have elected to continue from the original 11/14-11/21 dates through 12/30/08. We also anticipate offering this in 2009 also (but not on New Year's Eve, as chefs Jason and Mark have a special menu for that night).

Here is a link to the menu:

http://www.domainehudson.com/documents/AppetiteStimulus_120808.pdf

Top Chef recap

Was last night's episode a gift or a big lump of coal?

I'm leaning toward coal.

First off, it's kind of goofy the way the cheftestants have to act like it's Christmas when, in reality, it was really Christmas in July or August or some other warm weather month.

And those holiday decorations? Cheese-ball. I also hated that the theme for the Elimination Challenge was based on the 12 Days of Christmas. Bigggggg, strettttccchhhh...

And since I'm so cranky this morning, why is everyone still sleeping in bunk beds? (Geez, what is the Bravo budget?) I know I've harped on this before, but you really shouldn't have to sleep in a bunk bed pass the age of 12.

OK, I just took a Christmas cookie/coffee break to settle down my inner Crankenstein.

Now onto guest judge and my favorite ex-con Martha Stewart.

Let me say, I adore Mrs. Stewart. (Photo above is Martha at Winterthur's Point-to-Point with George "Frolic" Weymouth.) She's a control freak wack-a-doodle, but she's my control freak wack-a-doodle.

There's nothing warm and cuddly about Martha. Nada. Zilch. She's the complete opposite of Paula Deen, whom I like to think of as a salty Mrs. Santa. And that's what I like about Martha - she's NOTHING like Paula Deen or, as we call her in my house, Mrs. Mayonnaise.

Quickfire Challenge was making a one-pot meal. (C'mon now, didn't you howl at the moon when Mrs. Stewart says she always makes one-pot meals at home? Whatever, Martha, as her daughter Alexis would say.)

For the life of me, I can't remember what Stefan made. Little memorable food so far this season. To me, Other Bald Guy pulled it out with a paella. Now that's a smart choice. Tattoo Girl stuck with scallops and almost had Mrs. Stewart's vote.

But Cougar Lady wins - really?? - with her mashed cauliflower and meat. That didn't seem like a one-pot dish to me...See, I told you that I thought Martha was fibbing when she said she often makes one-pot meals...

Then the ladies had a Jersey Girl fist bump. Kind of cute. I like Cougar Lady. Cue the Bruce Springsteen.....

Not so cute: Tattoo Guy getting all pissy with Mrs. Stewart because she didn't like his use of cornstarch to thicken a stew. Hmmm, I'm going with Mistress Martha on this one. Some chefs I've dealt with tend to frown on cornstarch and favor flour - or at least arrowroot - when it comes to a thickening agent.

Jumping to what was essentially a Non-Elimination Challenge: Making a dish based on one of the 12 Days of Christmas.

Tattoo Girl skated here, because I think she would have been a goner. Everyone made a yucky face when talking about her seviche. (Is that what it was?)

Now, why can't anyone on "Top Chef" remember to close a refrigerator door or refrigerate a dish? (Remember Dale last season almost screwed up Stephanie's "Top Chef" win by forgetting to refrigerate one of her dishes?)

This is basic kitchen safety. And since my favorite 5-year-old can can remember to close the fridge, I don't understand why 30-something-year-old PROFESSIONAL chefs have such a problem.

My conspiracy theory mind is working overtime and I think one of the show producers "accidentally" left the door open to create some much needed drama. So far, this season, there have been no crazies or chefs sweating into the food or viewer friendly personalities other than the European Union of Fabio and Stefan . Oh, I have no proof about my conspiracy theory, just a thought....

So the chefs leave the barn door open, so to speak, and Other Bald Guy is left with spoiled pork; and Girl Who Wouldn't Make Indian Food has spoiled duck.

All the chefs pitch in to help out their colleagues, and Other Bald Guy and Girl Who Is Now Making Indian Food make THE BEST DISHES EVER!

Cue the sappy music, this is "A Very Special 'Top Chef' Christmas."

Everyone gets to stay this episode! Merry Christmas to all, and to all a Good Night!

Yak. Barf. Bah-humbug.

At least Tom gives the audience a little stocking stuffer by smacking down the chefs for making boring, ordinary food. Grinchy good stuff!

Yes, Virginia, there is a Santa Claus, and his real name is Colicchio.

Celebrity chef or just schlocky celebrity?

I've been known to beat up Rocco DiSpirito, who has popped up as a guest judge on "Top Chef", for becoming a big sell-out.

He forever lost my favor when he began shilling Fancy Feast gourmet cat food.

Now, The New York Times is joining in on the smackdown.

I wouldn't eat that if I were you....

Holy 30-year-old fruitcake, Batman!

When Claymont resident Cindy Curry sent me an email about the fruitcake that had a home in her parent's basement refrigerator, and now her own, since the early 1970s, well, who could resist writing about that?

The oldest thing in my refrigerator is a bottle of duck sauce circa 2006. I should throw it out; no one eats duck sauce, and I'm not sure how the heck I came to have a bottle of duck sauce.

Curry's old, stale fruitcake reminded me of Edward Gorey's story "The Haunted Tea-Cosy." Gorey's pen-and-ink drawings were on exhibit at the Brandywine River Museum a few years ago.

Anyway, the fruitcake tale got even funnier when I called Benson's Bakery in Georgia - who made the fruitcake - to tell them about Curry's three-plus decades old confection.

They had never heard of anyone keeping one of their cakes that long.

Curry had mentioned about possibly giving it to Benson's for a fruitcake museum.

The guy I talked to at Benson's said:

"With all due respect, we don't want it."

Then we both started laughing. He thanked me for the best chuckle of the week and we wished each other Merry Christmas.

Fruitcake can bring people together.

Look for the signs

Some pop culture this week. This first link is to a fun test on the signs and logos we see every day. But how well do you really know them? The test comes from AOL Wallet Pop, and not to brag, but I got 19 out of 20. Some of the fakes are easy to spot.

http://www.walletpop.com/quizzes/company-signs

And speaking of logos and icons, Pepsi has made a major change to its famous swirl logo, now turned to the side and, supposedly, more of a "smile."

You can go to pepsi.com, or here's a more-direct link.

http://www.pepsigallery.com/?or=pusa.1067

Holiday binge eating

Here's a little something from the AP that I'm calling the "Yeah, whatever" story of the holiday season:

Stressed-out over holidays, finances, and a down economy? Before you reach for the cookies, read these tips on how to control the holiday binge.

- Think about how you want to feel on Jan. 2, says Judith S. Beck, author of the "The Complete Beck Diet for Life." Ask yourself, "'If I gain a lot of weight, how will I feel?'" says Beck. (FAT, FAT, FAT! C'MON WHAT DO YOU THINK?)

- Rethink your goals. Rather than trying to lose weight over the holidays, work to maintain your current weight, said Madelyn Fernstrom, founder and director of the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center's Weight Management Center. (NOT IF THERE'S CHOCOLATE AROUND.)

- Do away with all or nothing thinking. Many people feel they have two choices: stick to the diet or abandon it completely, said Beck. But there is a middle ground that is a lot healthier, said Beck, a cognitive therapist. (SORRY, BUT I WANT IT ALL.)

Her example: "I'm going to let myself eat 200 to 300 extra calories every single day for 10 days knowing that I probably will gain a little bit of weight, but also knowing that I'm feeling good that I'm staying in control and still eating in a healthy way." (SOUNDS GOOD IN THEORY, BUT, AGAIN, NOT IF THERE'S CHOCOLATE AROUND.)

- Don't think one indulgence has ruined your diet completely. Forgetting about a diet for a day is different than forgetting about it for a month, said Martin Binks, director of behavioral health at the Duke Diet and Fitness Center. (UNFORTUNATELY, INDULGENCE BEGINS ON THANKSGIVING AND OFTEN RUNS THROUGH NEW YEAR'S DAY - THAT'S MORE THAN A MONTH.)

If you pick a few days and have an extra piece of pie, you're not going to do that much damage, he said. But make sure free-for-all eating does not last until January. (HA, HA, HA.)

- Think about the purpose of the gathering. Is to be with friends and family or overeat? said Binks. (THE ANSWER: OVEREAT.)

- Observe other dieters. Compare yourself with people who are losing weight or maintaining weight loss, said Beck. Dieters often compare themselves to people who are not dieting and then feel resentful and deprived watching them eat, she said. (I LIKE TO STAND NEXT TO THE FATTEST PERSON I SEE AT THE MALL. IT MAKES ME FEEL SO MUCH BETTER.)

- Be mindful of what you are eating. Pick and choose what you eat and drink carefully, and monitor your portions, said Fernstrom. (CREAMY POTATOES, COOKIES, HAM.....)

- Find another coping mechanism for stress. "There are many people who don't eat when they are under stress," said Beck. "What do they do to cope?" (WHO ARE THESE PEOPLE? I'VE NEVER MET THEM BEFORE?)

- If you feel entitled to eat because you are under a lot of stress, remind yourself that eating whatever you want and whenever you want is incompatible with goal of losing weight, she said. (WHY DO THINK THE GYMS ARE SO BUSY IN JANUARY? NO ONE IS FOLLOWING THIS ADVICE.)

All aboard....

Hop onto the crazy train this week.

The countdown to Christmas begins and I haven't started any shopping yet. The family is scaling back this year - whew, and isn't everyone? - but there is still the obligatory toy store trips and, ugh, wrapping to do.

Santa, can you please loan me a few elves?

Also, I have lunches and dinners planned all week. (Doc, I promise I'll start the diet and exercise program very, very soon. But let me please finish the cookies that a coworker's wife made for the office.)

Weekend was a whirlwind. My niece and nephew were part of a live Nativity on Saturday. (My niece was an angel and my sweet little nephew was the baby Jesus - so I guess that makes God my brother-in-law. Talk about family connections!) It was so cute. The church brought in live goats, rabbits, a donkey and a llama. A woman at the church said last year the llama's tail caught on fire. Yikes! Thankfully, no fires this year.

We had a family dinner afterward and I tried out a recipe for "Winter Pork and Fruit Ragout" from The Silver Palate cookbook. (I've been eyeing this ragout for some time.) Served it saffron-flavored rice, Marcella Hazan's Tuscan-style baked cauliflower (a family request) and a crunchy orange-fennel salad dressed with very good extra-virgin olive oil, freshly squeezed orange juice and salt and pepper. For dessert, we had Jacques Pepin's apple galette.

I marinaded the pork the day before and cooked the casserole earlier in the day Saturday. We reheated when we got home.

The hearty stew reminded us of sweet-and-sour pork or, maybe, even sauerbrauten. (The German side of the family was very, very happy.) It's a very good casserole, but next time I'd probably dial down the fresh dill or replace it with fresh parsley or maybe even rosemary. Maybe it's just me; no one else thought the dill was too strong.

Winter Pork and Fruit Ragout

Adapted from The Silver Palate Cookbook

3 pounds lean boneless pork, cut into 1-inch cubes

2 dozen dried apricot halves

1 cup dark seedless raisins

1 cup dry red wine

1 cup red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon dried thyme

Salt, to taste

Best-quality olive oil

4 shallots, peeled and minced, or one large red onion, peeled and minced

1 cup dry white wine

1 quart chicken stock

2 bay leaves

1/4 cup honey

In a large bowl combine the pork, apricots, raisins, red wine, vinegar, dill, mint, cumin, pepper, thyme and salt. Cover and marinate, refrigerated, overnight or up to 24 hours. Stir occassionally.

Remove the pork and fruit from the marinade. (Use a slotted spoon.) Reserve the fruit in a small bowl. Reserve the marinade separately. Pat the pork dry with paper towels.

Film the bottom of a large, enameled cast-iron Dutch oven with olive oil and saute the pork, a few pieces at a time, until well-browned. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Drain the oil from the casserole, add the shallots and saute over medium heat for about 5 minutes. Add the reserved marinade and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits remaining in the skillet. Cook for several minutes, until slightly reduced. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Stir in the reserved fruit, the pork, HALF of the white wine, HALF of the chicken stock, the bay leaves and honey. Mix well. Bring to a boil, cover, and then set on the center rack of the oven.

Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Uncover the casserole and add additional wine or stock if the meat seems too dry. Bake, uncovered, until the meat is tender and the sauce is rich and thick, another 30 to 45 minutes.

Makes 6 to 8 portions.

Reader mail

The cover of 55 Hours today is about good, affordable eats - and big portions. Peter Bothum and I checked out some places. (I'm so glad Pete ate The Glutton at The Note in West Chester, Pa., and not me. That's a lot of sandwich.) Cajun Kate's, Burrito Bandido and Chamberlains Roast Beef also are all worth a visit.

Eric Ruth stops into Famous Dave's in Christiana.

Check out the letters in the mailbag:

WITH A REBEL YELL - 'MORE, MORE, MORE'

QUESTION: Hi Patricia, Not sure if you reviewed The Rebel restaurant yet (201 N. Market St., Wilmington; 658-2018), but I just wanted to express how much I enjoyed my lunch there last week. I had the baked barbecue chicken, with a side of macaroni and cheese. To say it's "comfort food" is an understatement. I could taste the preparation that went into this dish, from the marinade to the mac 'n cheese, it really was good. It was a great place to hang out, and I love the sunlight pouring in the large windows. It was neat to see the crowd's diversity inside, and I thought the owner should be commended for it. "Comfort" is a great way to describe my experience there.


Thanks for listening.
Zach Mauger


ANSWER: Thanks Zach. Readers, just an FYI: I love getting this kind of feedback on local restaurants, but, hope it's not a shameless plug. I don't know if Zach works for or knows anyone from The Rebel.

IT'S CHRISTMAS TIME IN THE CITY......

QUESTION: Hi, I was wondering what restaurants in Wilmington will be having Christmas Eve dinner this year? Looking for a nice upscale restaurant.



Thank you,
Michelle


ANSWER: The Green Room at the Hotel du Pont in downtown Wilmington is one of the most beautiful, upscale restaurants in the state. I have friends who go there every Christmas Eve for dinner. Or you could try Krazy Kat's at the Inn at Monchanin Village.



WHERE'S THE BEEF?

QUESTION: There was a review in The News Journal a week or so ago about a restaurant on Union Street with a really good spicy hot roast beef sandwich. Can you tell me which restaurant ?
Thanks!
Jeff



ANSWER: I think you're asking about the Milan Ultimate sandwich at Timmy D's Deli, 600 N. Lincoln St.


YO, ADRIAN, WHAT'S THAT RESTAURANT?

EDITORS NOTE: A reader asked about dining in South Philly last week. See below:



QUESTION: Wanted to let you know that we went with Ralph’s Italian Restaurant for my coworker's group of 30 last Thursday night. She reports that they had a great time and the food was awesome. They compared the experience to Little Italy in NYC.



ANSWER: We aim to please. Tell your friends and neighbors to read The News Journal, delawareonline.com, and especially Second Helpings www.delawareonline.com/secondhelpings.


SOUP'S ON!

QUESTION: You had a recipe in the paper this year just after Thanksgiving for turkey chowder - lots of corn in it --I cut it out and now can't find it. I am cooking the carcass now - and want so desperately to make it. Can you tell me how I can get it?

Thanks so much,
Kathy Molin

ANSWER: Here it is:


TURKEY CORN CHOWDER

This recipe is from Gina Wessells, of New Castle, at momslikeme.com, a News Journal Web site. She says that, if she doesn't use this recipe, she makes turkey pot pie with dressing as the "crust."

8 ounces bacon
1/4 cup olive oil
6 cups chopped onions (4 large onions)
4 large carrots, peeled and cubed
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 cup flour
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
12 cups chicken stock
2-3 cups diced, cooked turkey
6 cups medium diced white potatoes (2 pounds)
5 cups corn kernels, fresh (six ears) or frozen (1 1/2 pounds)
2 cups half and half
12 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, grated

In a large stockpot over medium-high heat, cook the bacon in olive oil until the bacon is slightly crispy. Reduce the heat to medium and add the onions, carrots, and butter; cooking for 10 minutes or until the onions become translucent. Stir in the flour, salt, pepper and turmeric and cook for 5 minutes. Lower the heat to medium-low. Add the chicken stock, and cook for 20 minutes. Add the potatoes and bring to a boil; simmer for 15 minutes (or until potatoes are tender). Add the turkey and corn kernels to the stock, then the half and half, and lastly, the cheddar. Cook for 5 more minutes until the cheese is melted. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Makes 10-12 servings.

Top Chef recap

So much to love last night: Tom's Sighs and Frowns! Stefan's bullying other chefs and his crush on Tattoo Girl! Eye pop galore from the Woman Who Looks Like Beaker! Serving Mushy Rice - and thinking that's OK - to the staff of Food & Wine magazine!

Is "Top Chef" the best show on TV or what?

A friend was on last night's episode. I didn't know it and was pleasantly surprised to see her.

Did you understand the whole make-your-own sushi thing? Sushi Guy must have been sniffing wasabi to come up with that silly idea. If you're going to make sushi - use raw fish. Not a fan of cooked meat sushi. And, believe me, when you're dealing with some of the pickiest food snobs in the country- and I mean that in the most loving way, my friend! - you aren't going to win them over with steak sushi, mushy rice, barbecue sauce, and Chilean sea bass.

Still can't remember anyone's name except Fabio and Stefan. Go Stefan go. Love his brazen cockiness. He's like a bald, saucy Dieter.

(Remember Mike Myers' SNL German character who was bored with everyone around him?) It would so make my year if Stefan - should we start calling him Sprockets? - told one of the cheftestants: "Your story has become tiresome.."

More Sprockets, please. Bravo, this guy is a rising star.

More contestants need to be whittled down before I get invested in learning their names. Daniel's did stay with me this episode - not for his melted yuzu sorbet, clueless attitude and arguing with Chef Tom - but because he kind of looks like my Cousin Johnny. (Sorry, Johnny. Love ya, babe, as Grandmom Talorico would say.)

Let's start with the Quickfire Challenge. I was all about the "guess the flavors" test. Having a well-defined palate is one of a chef's best tools. I knew Sprockets was toast when he said there was tomato paste in Mexican mole. I make mole quite often - Rick Bayless (one of Obama's favorite chefs) has one of the best recipes for it in his "Mexico: One Plate at a Time" cookbook. There's no tomato paste in mole, but it does have tomatillos. Other Bald Guy wins and gets immunity.

Other thoughts:

- Girl Wearing the Green Trucker Hat totally annoys me for no real reason. I wish contestants would stop wearing hats to get attention. And cut your bangs, will you?

- Beaker really calls to her husband in a grocery store by yelling Hoodie-Hoo (or something like that???) Are you freaking kidding me? And he's OK with that that?

- Cougar Cook wins on lamb - grrrrr! - much to the chagrin of Tattoo Girl who sulks after her carrots don't give her this episode's Chef's Crown. Tee-hee!

- Why won't The Chick Who Won't Cook Indian Food just cook Indian food?

- Cousin Johnny stands by melted sorbet, last-minute mushrooms in a salad and yucky peach barbecue sauce - and causes the P.O.'ed sighs and frowns from Chef Tom! And, well, you know what means: Ciao, cous. See you at the family reunion.

Some episode!

What a pig!

Don't get me wrong. I'm a huge fan of Michael Ruhlman. I'm currently reading his "Elements of Cooking" book and enjoying every minute of it.

And I'm a faithful visitor to his blog.

But I view with great skepticism his most recent post about buying and "breaking down" a 180-plus pound, hand-raised, humanely slaughtered Berkshire pig.

(That's porky above in a photo taken by Ruhlman's wife Donna. Gotta love that death grin.)

Oh, I don't doubt Ruhlman did this. In fact, he has other photos that prove all the hacking and sawing he went through - and is still doing. I just can't buy his pondering: "How reasonable is it to ask more people to eat this way?"

Ruhlman, not very reasonable. Most people have full-time jobs (if they're lucky in this shaky economy), little spare time or cash and no earthly idea how to even begin "breaking down" a whole pig.

Please, most people can't properly carve a turkey or whack a whole chicken into eight pieces, let alone a dead, obese squealer. (And, really, when it comes to hacking up something that weighs nearly 200 pounds, doesn't it feel like we're creeping into "Sopranos" or "Goodfellas" territory?)

I'm a professional food writer and have willingly taken on tasks and gone on adventures that the average Joe home cook would never, ever, dream of doing. But sawing through bones with a bandsaw and leaving a salted pig's head on my kitchen counter is even too much for me.

To his credit, Ruhlman posted an update that said "space, time and knowledge" are roadblocks indeed when it comes "breaking down" a hog.

No worries. I'll keep reading Ruhlman, even if I can't embrace this post whole hog.

Don't fear the fruitcake

Don't knock until you try it.

Real fruitcake.

Homemade fruitcake.

Fruitcake where you control the ingredients and leave out those scary-looking green candied cherries (why, oh, why are they green?) and the pukey-yellow, chewy, confetti of candied citron (why, oh, why are they pukey-yellow and smell like grandmom's perfume?)

I know what you're thinking: This chick is crazy. Friends don't give friends fruitcake.

And, honestly, fruitcake doesn't get a bad rap - most of it is terrible. But when my book club recently read Truman Capote's short story "A Christmas Memory" - (Seriously, read it. It will touch your heart. Yeah, even you Grinchy Scrooges.) - I was so inspired by his descriptions of fruitcake baking that I wanted to give it a whirl.

The result was way better than I expected. (That's one of my fruitcakes in the photo to the right. I'm so proud!)

I used a fruitcake recipe from Rick Rodgers' "Christmas 101" cookbook as a guide and made several modern changes - namely I used a wide assortment of dried fruits (Sun-Maid Fruit Bits rock!), cherry-flavored dried cranberries (just say no to green cherries!) and spiced Captain Morgan rum, along with some brandy. Next I may use cognac and a mix of pecans and walnuts.

My concession to tradition was candied or glace orange peel. (I bought a $3.89 container at Janssen's Market in Greenville - that store carries just about EVERYTHING - and ate a few pieces BEFORE I tossed into the batter. I did like the sunny, citrusy flavor.) I also bought citron ($4.19) and absolutely hated the taste. No way was this going into my batter. I'm convinced citron may be one of the reasons why people hate fruitcake. I still have the container. Anyone want it?

My fruitcake baking began in earnest on Sunday. I baked five loaves in disposable pans, brush them while still warm with the rum, and brought several into work the next day, even though you're supposed to let them age for 24 hours. It didn't matter. Only crumbs remained.

We tried one loaf last night - serve it at room temperature - and it tasted even better than on Monday. I saved the last one for Christmas Eve, but I'm seriously considering baking more and then wrapping cheesecake soaked in rum and brandy around the cakes to give them more of a kick.

The nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves in the batter make the cakes smell and taste wonderful and the applesauce gives it some moistness. It's hefty, but not heavy.

There's no getting around this: If you don't like dried fruits and nuts, this is not the cake for you. But it is terrific with a cup of coffee or tea and I may even slather a loaf with orange-flavored cream cheese frosting.

Fruitcake is good food. Who knew? Let's start a fruitcake revolution.

Ciao, Amici

A critic's praise was not enough to keep a Landenberg, Pa., restaurant afloat.

Amici's Fine Dining & Spirits plans to close after dinner Saturday.


"The economic downturn has hurt us quite dramatically," said Mark Little, an owner and founder of the restaurant on New London Road. Entrees at the restaurant ranged from about $16 to $45.


News Journal restaurant critic Eric Ruth bestowed a three-star rating on Amici's in September 2007. (Restaurants now reviewed by the newspaper are given forks-up or forks-down ratings.)


Ruth wrote that Amici's "accomplishes so much more than its pasta-and-Chianti name would suggest. This isn't so much an Italian restaurant as a pleasantly genteel, casually urbane refuge that leans mildly toward the Mediterranean, with tasteful nods toward France and America."


Little is changing the concept of the eatery and will reopen it in February as The Wedge, with "more of a mid-tier menu."


He said he will honor any Amici's gift cards.

New Hockessin food lovers store

Chefs' Haven, a store catering to food lovers, opened today in Hockessin.

The shop at 1304 Old Lancaster Pike (across from the Wawa; it formerly housed an insurance company) is owned by Mark Eastman, a chef for 25 years who has worked at the Dilworthtown Inn, The Gables at Chadds Ford, Brasserie Perrier and Wilmington Trust.

The store, open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays, sells high-quality knives, pots and pans, kitchen utensils, "functional" pottery and locally made chocolates.

Eastman says he plans to offer cooking classes for both teenagers and adults as well as team-building culinary classes.

Call 234-2040 for more information.

"Eat, eat..."

Checked out the Mangia Mangia Italian Eatery in Little Italy recently. They make a nice pie. The crust is not as thin as I like, but they do get their dough daily from New York, which makes Mangia Mangia a good recommendation.

Check out their entire menu at http://www.mangia-mangia.net/ as they also make subs, steaks, wraps and all of the usuals, plus panzarottis of course (or is that panzerotti...). Anyway, they're at 530 N. Lincoln. Call ahead at 654-2223.

Don't forget an order of cheese fries. While bright orange cheese sauce is always welcome, Mangia Mangia does cheese fries the better way, by melting real cheese over the fries. I finished my fries before I was done my second slice of pizza, they were so good.

In snack news, I have to recommend the Utz Baked Chips BBQ flavor. Utz definitely gets the BBQ idea right, going heavy with the smoky flavor. If you like barbecue-flavored potato chips, these outclass what Herr's offers.

Christmas trees and new downtown Mexican eats place

Hope the weekend treated you well.

I got a Christmas tree. (Thanks for the good times on Saturday, Canterbury crew!) First live one in years and years. Yup, My name is Patricia and I once was a Charlie Brown fake, prelighted Christmas tree girl.....

Got it home and then realized I no longer had a Christmas Xmas tree stand or lights. WT...Out to Unhappy Harry's for a cheapie stand - the last one! - and lights, which I had to return since I didn't look at the boxes and see that the wires are white instead of green and will look funny on the tree. WT....

So here's the funny thing: Couches and Christmas trees look much smaller - until you get them in your house. This is One. Big. Tree. OMG. The tree guy wasn't kidding when he told me I chopped down (well, Eddie chopped it; I got my picture taken holding the saw) the Cadillac of trees. It's more like a mini-van. Well, the house smells great....

OK, enough about me: Some news you can use.

There's a ribbon cutting on Tuesday for Qdoba Mexican Grill in downtown Wilmington.

The Market Street eatery offers 13" California-style, made-to-order jumbo burritos, salads, tacos, nachos, and quesadillas. It's open daily.

Qdoba serves breakfast from 7:30 a.m. to 10 a.m. Monday through Saturday, and lunch/dinner from 10:30 a.m. through 10 p.m. Monday through Sunday.

Visit the web site or call 397-8851 for more details.

Reader mail

Happy, happy Friday. It's been an emotionally draining week and I'm looking forward to a fun weekend that includes chopping down a Christmas tree, heading to a party and tossing flour around the kitchen during a marathon baking session.

Do your part for the economy and try to dine out at a locally owned restaurant.

Need something to do:

Tonight through Sunday, Moore Brothers Wine Company is bringing in a slew of German wine makers. There's also a cool beer tasting on Saturday at Iron Hill Brewery in Wilmington (see second and third items.)

The mailbag is stuffed like Santa's sack today. Lots of great questions. Keep 'em coming. You ask. We answer. Every Friday. Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

QUESTION: Edea Barilo of Bellevue Manor had mentioned her gravy that won first place. Is there any chance of getting the recipe? It sounds very good. My aunt used to make a red gravy with pork and spearmint leaves to help with digestion wish I had that recipe as well.
Thanks
Ray

ANSWER: Spearmint leaves? Really? That's a new one to me. It's amazing the diversities when it comes to Italian gravy.
Americans who sing about sauce of their childhood that would sputter in a large pot on their mother or grandmother's stove are actually talking about ragu napoletano. Ragu is something that makes Edea Barilo nostalgic for her youth and brings back memories of her parents, now deceased. The Brandywine Hundred resident grew up smelling and eating Sunday gravy and continues the tradition with her own family. At the annual Vendemmia Italian food and wine festival in Wilmington this past October, Barilo's full-bodied sauce took top honors at the annual Gravy Contest.

Another reader asked for Barilo's recipe. But she told me doesn't have one written down. Barilo says the secret of her sauce is to have everything fresh. She starts by sauteing onions and garlic. From there, she makes her own braciola, the flattened beef that she spreads with a blend of flat-leaf parsley, garlic, salt and pepper, rolls up and then braises. Sausage goes into the pan, followed by homemade meatballs made with a combination of ground veal, beef and pork. An added layer of flavor comes from the addition of sauteed country-style ribs.
Barilo's mother Ada always canned her own homegrown summer tomatoes. Her daughter does the same. But sometimes Barilo also uses cans of San Marzano tomatoes.
"I'll add the spices, salt, pepper and garlic. The parsley comes from my yard as do the bay leaves," she says. Fennel seed is also part of the mix. The preparation takes about an hour and Barilo slow-cooks the sauce for another 2 1/2 hours. "The whole house smells great."

QUESTION: Hi Pat, Several months ago you did a write up on a new restaurant that opened in Glen Mills, U.S. 202, Route 1 area and I believe it was a steakhouse. Could you please give me the name. It 's not Brandywine Prime because I was thinking this new restaurant might give them some competition.
Thank you,
Carolyn D. Brown

ANSWER: I believe you're thinking of Mile High Steak House in Glen Mills, Pa. Here's the link: http://www.milehighsteakandseafood.com/


QUESTION: Hello Patricia,
My name is Joe Louden and I am a teacher in the Fine Arts department at Ursuline Academy.
I am interested in having parents and students bring food items to the Christmas concerts next Tuesday and Wednesday at our school.
Is there a chance you would be able to drop off barrels for collection of any food items?
I await your response to report this possibility to our leadership.

ANSWER: Hi Joe. I'm so glad your organization is participating. My book club just gathered together items that we plan to drop off very soon. When we first ran stories about the initiative of Delaware Does More, supported by The News Journal and spearheaded by the United Way and the Delaware Food Bank - more than 30 companies, churches and organizations promised to get involved. Since stories first ran and appeared in print and on DelawareOnline – more than 250 Delaware companies, churches and organizations have signed on to help local Delawareans in need. These organizations are doing everything from employee / employer food drives, bake sales, collecting extra cash donations and more during this campaign to raise $250,000 and 300,000 pounds of food during the next 90 days.

The Food Bank of Delaware needs your help now more than ever. They will drop off and pick up barrels for you. The contact person is Charlotte McGarry at 292-1305, ext., 211 or cmcgarry@fbd.org


QUESTION: Hi Patricia. My husband and I went to Orillas Saturday night. The place was crowded, but we were seated right away. Our server was awesome, filling us in on things the menu did not tell us,such as how the seafood and vegetarian paellas could be made for one person and how everything is freshly made so special orders are not a problem. We ordered several dishes to share and were very happy with our choices. The chef and sous chef both came out to speak to us, as did other people working there. Our hope is that the good news about Orillas speads and that the location is a plus, not a minus.
Beryl Gamiel

ANSWER: Beryl, your experience mirrors my own. Here's my review of Orillas.

QUESTION: I enjoyed your article about Vincente's. It was a favorite of mine when I had out of town customers to entertain. In addition to the table side salad and talking menu, he did an outstanding act named Cafe Diablo. It was a real crowd pleaser. I wonder if that will be included at the new location. Hal Lynch

ANSWER: My guess is that Vincente's owner Vincent Mancari will bring back many favorites from his old menu.

QUESTION: Patricia - I have a coworker coming to town from Houston with a church group of 30 people. She is looking for a place for the group to have dinner on Thursday evening and wants to keep the average entree price at $15-$20 per.

A friend recommended looking at the Italian restaurants in South Philly for a real experience and good food but he couldn't think of any names. I came up with Ralph's Italian Restaurant using Google.

Do you have any suggestions? I am trying to avoid sending them to a chain restaurant.

ANSWER: Ralph's is definitely an old school "red gravy" joint. I can't remember the prices - went there with my uncle about a year or so ago - but it's a fun South Philly place.

I also like Villa di Roma, 936 S. Ninth St., (between Christian Street and Washington Avenue) (215) 592-1295. It's also in the Italian Market - just down the street from Ralph's. I think it's a little more casual than Ralph's, but good food, very homey and as South Philly as it gets.

Just so you know, I'm almost positive that both places are cash only.

In Delaware, there's always Ristorante Attilio's (my first choice for "red gravy" Italian) or Madeline's Italian Restaurant.

Top Chef recap

First things: Should I keep recapping "Top Chef"? What's the interest level here?

The Thanksgiving episode with the Foo Fighters didn't leave me with a warm and fuzzy feeling. It smelled too much of stunt casting.... Do you care what rock stars have to say about food? Not me. Even if it is Dave Grohl. Who is sometimes spotted in Delaware. (Rehoboth and Dewey beaches.)

Stick with music, my friend. Leave the food critiquing to the professionals, especially when you describe something as looking like spit. (Which, actually, was kind of funny.)

What also was funny? The beginning of this episode opening with the long, rambling letter - scribbled on loose leaf paper (what is this grade school?) - that Mr. Spitty S'mores left for Tattoo Girl and Engaged Guy. (Sorry, but I can't remember anyone's name besides the European Union of Fabio and Stefano.)

When they started crying, I couldn't stop laughing.

This. Is. A. Reality. TV. Show. No one is dying, dude. You made and served spitty s'mores for rock stars on national television. For Thanksgiving. No wonder you're gone. And where did you find loose leaf paper?

Last night's breakfast amuse bouche Quickfire Challenge was cool. I'm not a huge breakfast eater - kind of like Fabio and Tattoo Girl - so this appeals to my inner "just-give-me-coffee-and-don't-talk-to-me-until-10 a.m." chick.

Some of these chefs need to go back and page through their "Food Lover's Companion" for the definition of this culinary term: An amuse bouche is a single bite. Little, itty, bitty thing. As in, one chomp, you're done, now hand me a napkin.

Rocco DiSpirito, the former pusher of gourmet cat food , was back as the guest tasting tongue. The Big Rock used to have so much street cred. Anyone remember his late great Union Pacific restaurant? Sigh. Then he started doing really stupid things like starring in an ill-conceived reality show called "The Restaurant" and stinking it up on "Dancing with the Stars." Heavy sigh.

Flirty Girl - Leah, maybe? - wins by making something you can pop into your mouth. This is not rocket science, people. Little, itty, bitty bite. But how lame is it that Big Roc gives her one of his even lamer cookbooks as a prize? Oh, just go take another dance lesson will you?

Elimination Round was about cooking and talking on camera for 2 1/2 minutes. The three winning dishes get to be tasted by the ladies on the "Today" show. Having "the ladies" taste your food? Man, that's so D-List. No Al Roker? Guess that gosh-darn pesky gastric bypass operation has curbed Al's tasting abilities...

OK, this challenge is much harder than it sounds. I'm not great at camera work. First time I did a taped segment, I mispronounced my own name. The camera man laughed so hard we couldn't finish taping for a good 10 minutes.

Ariane - someone I remember! - kills it with her tomato, watermelon, feta cheese salad. (A salad for the ladies? No brainer. Please, that's like giving peanut butter and jelly to kids. Game over.)

Fabio goes with a tuna crowd-pleaser and scores some points. But Dumb Blonde Guy makes some kind of "gourmet" cabbage roll that makes Kathie Lee Gifford, the most annoying woman on the planet, spit it out on live TV. Do you trust a woman who frequently referred to her old man as the "Love Machine" to know good taste? I don't. (Ugh, and isn't it hard to get that image of Frank "Love Machine" Gifford out of your head now?)

The laughs just kept coming this episode.

Who got axed?

Engaged Guy. He made a soupy creme brulee which caused Chef Tom to give the Big Face Frown.

Uh oh. The Face Frown is never a good sign.

And soupy brulee is a sin against man. Well, on television anyway.

Goodbye, Engaged Guy. Enjoy the reception.

Do you hate Bobby Flay?

Just came upon this article about Food Network freckle-face Bobby Flay and had to share.

I used to be one of the people who believed Flay was an overly confident, cocky dude (wow, what a stretch for a chef!) whose city slicker personality was like wasabi - too much to handle in large doses.

Every time I watched a Flay hosted program I thought: Do you smile at your mother with that smirk?

But then I started cooking some of his big-flavored recipes - his grill books really are awesome and I dig his use of molasses, honey, chipotles and other chiles - and visited his Atlantic City steakhouse, where I had a fabulous and expensive meal. (Thankfully I wasn't paying that night).

My opinion of Mr. Flay started changing for the better. Cocky, I can handle, especially since he had the goods to back it up. (Well, the opinion wavered a bit when I had a so-so meal at Mesa Grill in New York).

But then I met Flay and interviewed him during an "Iron Chef America" taping and found him to be funny, very sincere and actually kind of sweet. (Whoa. Back up, buster: Is this the same Mr. Snarky?) With not a smidge of smirk, he told me that sometimes he felt like popping a few of those Iron Chef judges who were overly critical of the gourmet-style dishes that he has only 1 hour to make. That kind of honesty left me, well, kind of, smitten.

While I'm not ready to worship at the Church of His Bobbyness, I'll stand up and be counted. I'm a Flay fan.

Stress baking: UPDATE

It's been tough going lately and it isn't going to get any easier today.

Last night, the first thing I thought about when coming home was getting out the flour, sugar and butter and start baking. The smell of anything baking lifts my spirts. And, well, I do have that 25 pounds of Costco flour to use.

It was a little too late and I was a little too down for a marathon baking session. But I'm ready to begin playing in the kitchen with a few Christmas cookies recipes that I've been dying to try.

Here's a link to Martha Stewart's web site which has many holiday cookie recipes.

UPDATE: I scratched an earlier cookie link since you need a subscription - thanks for the heads-up Mr. Ruffles! Try this one instead. It's the Epicurious site for holiday cookies.

I'll also make Sara Foster's super easy peanut butter chocolate chip cookies.

UPDATE: I brought these cookies into work today. We really needed them!

Here's the recipe:

PEANUT BUTTER CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

Adapted from Sara Foster's "The Foster's Market Cookbook" (Random House, 2002.)

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup creamy peanut butter
1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 375. Lightly grease two baking sheets and set aside. Cream together the butter, peanut butter, brown sugar and granulated sugar in a bowl with an electric mixer until well-combined. Add the egg and the vanilla and mix until all ingredients are combined. Sift together the flour, baking soda and salt in a separate bowl and stir to mix. Slowly add the flour mixture to the peanut butter mixture while beating or stirring until smooth and well-blended. Add chocolate chips,. Do not overmix. Scoop the dough with a heaping tablespoon, roll into a ball and drop onto prepared baking sheets about 3 inches apart. Press flat with the back of a fork . Each cookie should be about 1/4-inch to 1/2-inch thick.

Bake 12 to 15 minutes (or 10 to 12 minutes for soft, chewy cookies) until golden brown. Cool 5 to 10 minutes on the baking sheets before removing the cookies to a baking rack to cool completely.

Makes about 2 dozen cookies.