Monday, March 31, 2008

Reader mail


Oops. Sorry gang. I was out of commission on Friday and didn't get to the mailbag.


Where to go for sushi is the topic:


I am looking for a restaurant with great sushi, but also traditional Asian cuisine in the Newark area to take my adult daughter and boyfriend who are used to good sushi in the metro Washington DC area. Any suggestions? I don't eat sushi, so something traditional for mom too, please! Wilmington area also a possibility or somewhere in between.


Sushi, you are so talking my language. Not so sure of the Newark area, but I've been impressed lately with the offerings at Okura Japanese Cuisine Restaurant, 703 Ace Memorial Drive, Hockessin, 239-8486. And I've had good luck at

Kyoto Japanese Restaurant in Pike Creek - 4563 Linden Hill Road, 368-9882.


Mikimotos in Wilmington is always a top choice. It's very hip and will most likely appeal to out-of-town visiting city dwellers.
And I'm also a fan of the BYOB Masamoto's Asian Grill, 1810 Wilmington Pike, Glen Mills, Pa., (610) 358-5538.


Readers - any other suggestions?

Hollywood star hearts Capriotti's




Capriotti's is the first thing he wants when he comes to his parent's Hockessin home. (My brother, who lives far from a Cap's, feels the same way, though he'll also take a Casapulla's Italian sub.)


Phillippe eats at Feby's Fishery on Lancaster Pike. (Gotta say I like their grilled fish and crusty bread, which they get from a New York bakery.)




Okkaaayyyyy.....Well, let's just say, I'll believe that one when I see it.


Saturday, March 29, 2008

Are you hungry for a J-Roll?



The backstory on the today's story about the J-Roll:
Looking for something fun to do to kick off the start of Monday's baseball season, the News Journal features department started brain-storming ideas.

The idea for today's "J-Roll" story came from an editor's confusion over Phils shortstop Jimmy Rollins' nickname. A couple of editors and reporters at the paper are huge Phillies fans and often talk baseball. The topic of J-Roll came up and an editor, not from the Philly area, asked
"What's a J-Roll?"


It was pretty funny - and, well, an idea was born. We decided to ask a few chefs, a deli owner, a baker and a sushi maker what they thought a J-Roll should be. The results were way beyond our expectations and very tasty. Talk about root-root-rooting for the home team!

I gave the group no guidelines - other than "it should be some kind of roll and capture the spirit of Jimmy Rollins." That's no easy task, but their imaginations ran wild.

My great thanks to Michele Mitchell at the Hotel du Pont (jelly roll); Mark Daggett at Eclipse Bistro (pork spring roll); Nancy Durney at Timmy D's Deli (chicken wrap sandwich); Tom Guzzi at Bing's Bakery (jalapeno-roasted red pepper roll) and Al Chu at Mikimotos (maki roll.)

Some of the establishments featured in the story said they may begin offering their version of a "J-Roll." For instance, Mikimotos says they will have offer the "J-Roll" as a $12 special; Timmy D's will likely have the delicious sandwich as a special, and Tom Guzzi of Bing Bakery was so happy with his J-Roll, he says they may begin selling them at the Newark bakery.

If you visit any of these places - ask for a J-Roll!

Thursday, March 27, 2008

The cheese stands alone

Yowsa. Ask where the mozzarella comes from before you take a bite.

Italy is having a health scare - and big public relations nightmare - with its Buffalo mozzarella.

Top Chef recap


You've probably seen it on the Top Chef promos - and you know he was acting for the cameras - but Crazy Eyes Andrew still has the best soundbite so far this season:

"As far as me going home, you need to drag me out with security guards. This is my house."

He wasn't - dragged out - and he didn't go home. But the producers should make sure there are no sharp knives around Andrew when he goes in front of the Judges Table. The crazy act sure makes good TV but he seems unhinged. (Andrew, wrap your head with aluminum foil; it will drown out the voices and thwart the aliens that are trying to control your mind....)

Still don't have all the chef's names down and still not yet rooting for anyone. The egos and arrogance of some of the contestants so far is a turn-off, and not at all funny like it was with the always entertaining Hung in Season 3.

And isn't it kind of weird, and a little disturbing, that they have some of these chefs sleeping in BUNK BEDS? After the age of 14 or whenever you stop going to summer camp, I don't think you should sleep in a bunk bed.

Quickfire challenge - with Mexican food authority Rick Bayless as guest judge - was about transforming and elevating the humble taco. Pretty good challenge and pretty tough judge. Bayless is one of my favorite chefs - his Frontera Grill in Chicago is a fab casual restaurant. (Had the best margaritas in my life there. Yep, better than Mexico.) He's soft spoken but he definitely knows good food and will tell you when yours isn't. Some of the chefs, like Erik, he of the Hairy Spider Eyebrows, didn't like that so much.

Take this exchange:

"I thought the plate looked like a train wreck," Bayless said about Erik's sloppy plating.
"He can go screw himself," Erik said.

Didn't see any lengua (tongue) tacos, but I guess that's too street. Manuel's face dropped when Rick didn't chose his taco. You know he so thought he had it in the bag. Richard's jicama taco was innovative (he won the challenge), but I think I'd rather eat Crazy Eyes Andrew's duck tacos.

Elimination challenge: Split into two teams, steal food from people's houses (OK, raid their pantries) and create food for a neighborhood block party.

This is where the arrogance of the chefs began to bother me.

Ryan: "I thought we kicked their [other team's] ass."
Padma: "You didn't."

Some chefs didn't want to elevate the food because that's not what "Middle America" wants.

So glad Bayless's comeback was: "Good food sells to everyone."

And Tom's: "That means you should be dumbing down what you're doing?"

Some of the sad, sad food served to those poor Middle Americans was soggy corndogs (Erik), soggy Waldorf salad, made with white balsamic vinegar instead of mayo! (Ryan), mac and cheese that tasted like "a brick" (Nikki), paella that was more like rice pilaf (Richard) and oily pasta salad that was apparently WORSE than supermarket salads (Zoi).

But the corndogs fried way too far in advance did Erik in - dude, don't screw up hot dogs in Chicago! - and he was sent packing. Much deserved in my opinion.

Next week: Daniel Boulud is on board as guest chef. Good stuff.

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Only a flesh wound


Talk about cooking under fire!


Now, that's a Top Chef who knows how to bite the bullet.

Phillies food

Of all the pizza shops in all the world, they had to walk into ours.....


What do you think?

I've only had Peace A Pizza at the shop on Main Street in Newark. Thought it pretty good, though, it's been a few years since I've had a slice.

Seasons pizza is kind of a hybrid between deep-dish and New York style, though it veers toward a thicker crust. It's not my favorite pizza in the world, but I don't mind it - at least it has some crispness, something that's sadly lacking in many of the mushy-cardboardy tasting pizzas I've tried.
(I'm still searching Delaware for the best pie....Pizza by Elizabeths - GREAT CRUST! - is still my current favorite.)
So why Seasons?.....Seasons said they had a taste-teste at the ballpark and they got the contract...and the Aramark executive chef said they liked the taste. Were there other factors? Well, the ballpark expects to sell 3,000 slices on opening day (A 16-inch Seasons pie will be cut into 6 hefty slices, instead of the usual 8. So that's about 500 pizzas, right there.) You need a vendor who can handle high volume. And with 16 locations now, Seasons has proven that they can do big business.

But here's the thing: I don't order pizza at the ballpark. I want either a hot dog or one of those messy, but wonderfully delicious Tony Luke's sandwiches - preferably roast pork with the 'rabe. But that's just me.

Other Phils food news: It was very cool chatting with Greg Luzinski. He was one of my favorite players when I was growing up. I think I still have his autograph somewhere that I got when I was about 7 or 8. I almost didn't want to talk to Luzinski because sometimes chatting with celebrities blows your whole image of them, especially when they turn out to be big jerks.

But "the Bull" couldn't have been nicer - he likes chatting about food. He brought up Willey Farms in Townsend and said he liked the place and wanted to bring his BBQ sauce there. (OK, so AFTER the conversation, I called friends and family to say: GUESS WHO I JUST TALKED TO??!!!! Once a Phils fan, always a Phils fan....)

Mitch "Wild Thing" Williams was a trip. He's a very funny guy, very amiable and also loves chatting about food. And no, I DID NOT, bring up the 1993 World Series......The guy was armed with jalapeno-flavored salsa - it has a good kick - and I certainly didn't want a chunky red bath.
My momma didn't raise no fool.

Monday, March 24, 2008

See Tony slur



Reason No. 2,336 why it's probably NOT a good idea to give an on-camera interview after you've knocked back a few:

Check out Anthony Bourdain's boozy and pretty darn hilarious interview about his hatred for the Food Network - ain't that mug worth a 1,000 words? - with some New York based blogger. Click here.

(Hmmm, Tony's an Ina Garten fan? Who knew?)

The video also includes shots of deep-in-conversation Mario Batali and Jamie "the Naked Chef" Oliver who totally ignore their wine-swilling buddy's rants. Kind of get the feeling they're both thinking: Been there, done that.

What's cooking....

Hope your Easter was hopping...

Took a spiral ham - from Costco (thanks for the suggestion Joanne!) - and glazed it with a jar of Flower Market mustard and brown sugar. Family went nuts. It was crazy good, if I must say so myself. (What is the secret ingredient in Flower Market mustard?? I always stock up on a couple of jars when the Wilmington Flower Market rolls around.)

Saturday night, I made homemade pizza dough. I tried a couple of recipes but was really happy with the Dan Butler pizza recipe . (Click on pizza recipe and scroll to second item or click on pizza label below.)

But this time I subbed King Arthur white whole wheat flour for the bread flour in Dan's recipe. At first, the dough seemed really heavy. (Uh, oh, leaden pizza ahead!)

But I let the dough rise for an hour and then rest in fridge for another 30 minutes to an hour. Rolled it out thin and baked it on a pizza stone in a 550 degree oven for about six minutes. (Toppings - thin layer of marinara sauce, along with fontina and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheeses.)

When it came out, I added fresh basil and extra virgin olive oil to the top. Wow. Incredibly crispy and delish. It even impressed the skeptic who normally doesn't like whole wheat anything.

Sorry, no photos. We were almost finished eating before I thought about snapping shots. (Same with Easter ham.)

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Woo-hoo!

All is well, comments section now seems to be working. Post away!

I've got to get back to the kitchen, finish some pre-Easter dinner preparations....and I have a homemade pizza to bake. (I'm testing out a new whole wheat pizza dough recipe, but I'm not sure yet what to think of it. The dough seems heavy.) I'm thinking maybe I should have mixed half whole wheat flour and half bread flour. We'll see in about an hour.

Friday, March 21, 2008

Frustration!


Some continuing technical difficulties.......

I dunno why, but for some reason the comments section on earlier posts don't seem to be working. Errrrrr.....

I'll try to get it corrected by Monday.

Please check back. And - have a happy Easter.

Reader reaction to antipasto - MORE UPDATES





No clunkers among the bunch - but I thought Attilio's salad was the best. And, by all means, you must order Attilio's crunchy, fiery, salty peppers. I think it's one of the best (crunchy snack) dishes in Delaware.

Readers had their own thoughts about where to find great chopped antipasto salad. Here's the phone calls so far and I'll update as they come in:

One caller said Cafe Napoli, 4391 Kirkwood Hwy, Wilmington, 999-7553, is outstanding.

I just hung up the phone with a woman who says the chopped antipasto at Cafe Scalessa , 504 Greenhill Ave., Wilmington, "is out of this world. They have better lettuce than that iceberg crap." (Her words, not mine.)

A man told me that the "sliced antipasto" at Porto Fino, 730 Ferry Cut-off, New Castle, is the best. "I think the sliced doesn't get as soggy." He says the garlic bread is also worth the trip.

An owner of Cafe LaTerrazza, 101 Kirkwood Square, Wilmington, 993-1080, (off Kirkwood Highway behind Accent Music) says they have a terrific chopped antipasto made with iceberg lettuce, capicola ham, imported ham, Genoa salami, provolone, sweet peppers, cucumber and tomatoes.

And these emails:


NORTH WILMINGTON
Check out the salad at Mazzella's (729 Philadelphia Pike, Wilmington; 762-8722). Delicious - maybe one small step below Attiltio's.

Regards,

Joe Bunce


HOCKESSIN
I enjoyed your article in todays NJ. Please try the anitpasto at Andrea's Best of Italy in Wellington Plaza in Hockessin. It comes plain or chopped ($1. extra for the chopped). It is excellent. We usually order lunch from there at least once a week and enjoy it!
Kate Erwin
Limestone Hills

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Bear with us.....

Revamped web site - new kinks to work out.

Yep, tech services knows that the blog looks a little funny - and they're working on it....

Stay tuned. Go eat a cookie, get a cup of coffee and check back.

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Top Chef recap



Typical Top Chef. One week you're up (Stephanie) and the next week your down (Stephanie).

Or vice-versa (Mark.)

Not a bad episode at all, though was a little surprised that the guest judge still has not been a Chicago chef. (Next week, though, yippee, Windy City celebrity chef Rick Bayless lends his palate.)

But this week's guest judge, molecular gastronomy king Wylie Dufresne of New York's WD-50 is certainly no slacker.

Quickfire Challenge called for the 15 remaining chefs to shop a farmers' market and then use only five ingredients in a dish. (Salt, pepper, sugar and oil didn't count as one of the five.) Must have been filmed in July/August - lots of tomatoes and peaches on those market tables.

Richard's braised chicken with eucalyptus - sounds kind of bathroom freshner-esque to me - smacked of trying waaaaaay too hard.

Mark's turnip/peaches combo was the winner. So was his facial hair. "Nice sideburns," said Dufresne, who also sports a mean pair of lamb chops. Dudes with 'burns stick together.

Crazy eyes Andrew didn't mince words when told he used too many ingredients in his dish. "Poop," said the gifted speaker.

Spike also reached for a potty reference this episode. "Nikki's mushrooms look like turds. And who wants to put a turd in their mouth?" (Spike must be a cat owner. Dogs owners know better than to say that.)

And even Gail - Elegant Gail! - took a turn in the toilet. "That (mushroom) looked like something a bear would produce, not eat." Oh, Gail. What would your Food & Wine magazine editors say?

Elimination Round: Chefs break into teams - named for animals - and cook appetizers for a party at the Lincoln Park Zoo based on the diets of lions, vultures, penguins, gorillas and bears. (Who knew lions ate BEETS and vultures chowed rabbits and lambs? Hey kids, watch Top Chef! It's almost as good as the Discovery Channel.)

Nikki's turds, er, mushrooms - overcooked mushrooms, blueberries and pecorino cheese - weren't to anyone's liking. Gee, wonder why? Soggy crab salad (Stephanie) and cold, precooked blinis with undercooked rutabaga (Valerie) also got forks down.

But it was Valerie's bleechy blinis that turned off most tastebuds. And in Top Chef world that means your 86-ed.

Best lines this episode:

"I'm molesting the produce section." - Spike.
"The olive pancake tasted a little like dirt." - Random zoo party guest.
"We'd like to see the vultures and the penguins." - Padma.
"The rutabaga was immediately, like, ewwww, that's really bad." - Tom.
"A fundamental error...not tasting your food." - Wylie.

Have you eaten here?



Toughest table to book in the U.S.?


Not in California.


Not in New York.


Not in Chicago or San Francisco or Miami or Philly.


Nope, it's in Kennett Square, Pa.


No kidding. It's the lone table at Talula's Table.

Of course, we've known about Talula's for some time now. National press is just now catching up...
Photos above (that's chef/co-owner Bryan Sikora) were taken by NJ photo Bill Bretzger last July when Bill and I hung out in the kitchen at Talula's during one of the now famous farmhouse dinners.
Got to sample some of the food, and let me tell you, Bryan and his wife Aimee Olexy deserve all the honors that come their way.



Miller's into the whole "quick" meal process, but the difference is that she plans meals for the week.
AND she is not nearly as annoying as Rachael Ray. Big plus.


Monday, March 17, 2008

Happy St. Pat's Day


Cell phone photos are never that great. But, sorry, I couldn't resist. The homemade paper leprechaun hat worn by one of my favorite leprechauns was just too funny.

Easter eggs

A NJ reader asked me about an Easter brunch.

Here's one at Winterthur:

Easter Brunch Buffet Featuring a carving station, omelet station, risotto station, waffles, banana-stuffed French toast, fritatta, crepes, smoked salmon and a dessert and pastry buffet. Reservations required. 10 a.m-2 p.m. March 23. Winterthur, Del. 52, northwest of Wilmington888-4826 or brunch@winterthur.org. $14.95-$29.95. No admission required for brunch. www.winterthur.org
UPDATE: A Second Helpings reader also passed along this tidbit on an Easter brunch and some other info:

Brandywine Prime Seafood & Chops, 1617 Baltimore Pike, Chadds Ford, Pa., (610) 388-8088, has a brunch buffet from 10-2 featuring slow roasted prime rib carved to order.
Dinner starts at 4 p.m. Along with the usual dinner menu, the restaurant is featuring a March Madness, Restaurant Month menu 3-courses for $30. For this Sunday only, they've added the usual Sunday night special of House Roasted Prime Rib with a popover to the $30 3-course menu.

Saturday, March 15, 2008

Brother, can you spare a meatball?


Why don't take-out orders of spaghetti come with more meatballs?

Recently ordered a "large" spaghetti take-out dish ($8.99) from Mrs. Robino's in Wilmington. It comes with two meatballs. One for each kid eating with my group.

Fine and well. (The kids thoroughly enjoyed their homemade pasta; I tried it and thought it was good too - actually much better than I remember - though the spaghetti was boiled a bit longer than I like.)

But when it comes to meatballs, you gotta be quick. Can't tell you how the meatballs tasted, because, well, let's set the scenario:

Both kids are sitting at the kitchen table about to tear into their plates of spaghetti. (See photo.) All was right in the world. But then Kid No. 2 (to the right) accidentally knocks his meatball to the floor.

No big deal. Just pick it up, rinse it off, cover with more sauce and all is better, right? (Please, save the gross-out speeches. Brushed-off food is the dirty-secret of parenthood.)

Wrong.

In this house, you gotta be faster than the dog. Meatball hits the floor. Oddie, a very large, Newfoundland mix, licking his chops and lurking near the table, seized a golden opportunity and gobbled that meatball quicker than Homer Simpson scarfs down doughnuts. MAN, can that dog hoover meatballs! (We think he may have even sucked it down mid-air.)

Moral of the story: Always order extra meatballs. Especially if you have a ravenous Newfoundland.

Friday, March 14, 2008

Reader mail, St. Pat's and Easter food tidbits

A News Journal reader called and asked about some restaurants in north Wilmington offering Easter buffets and brunches. Any thoughts? And, dear reader, please email me, ptalorico@delawareonline.com.
I jotted down your email and now can't find it.

Short version of Reader Mail today - see below - so I'll point out a few others food related things.

Is it really St. Pat's Day if you don't get a frog cupcake - see Jennifer Corbett's cute photo on the right - from Sweeney's Bakery?

Easter is next Sunday and, for some people, that means it's time for the Delaware Provision Co.'s homemade Polish kielbasa and KISZKA. What's Kiszka? Read the story.

Still need a Polish food fix? Get your homemade babka, chrusciki, pierogies and butter lambs at Krystyna's Polish Bakery.

Bing's Bakery - old-fashioned style bakery in downtown Newark - has been offering hot cross buns during the Easter season for more than 60 years. (Longtime owner Selina Bing passed away a few years ago, but when she sold the business she gave her blessing to the shop's head baker/owner Tom Guzzi, who has worked at Bing's Bakery since 1996.)


Ameritage Bistro is a new restaurant that just opened in downtown Wilmington. (Really brand new. Doors swung open two days ago.) It takes over the old Brandywine Brewery spot at Ninth and Orange streets. Here's a look.

Here's a really interesting email from News Journal reader Kevin Donohue - and a great idea.

Sub/steak shop owners or city of Wilmington/Newark officials get your thinking caps on and STEAL THIS IDEA. Seriously.
Patricia,
Has anyone ever thought of doing a “Cheesesteak Festival” in Wilmington??!! As a former Wilm resident, I know for a fact those Wilmington subs and cheesesteaks keeps a lot of us ex-pats coming back again and again.
Best,
Kevin Donohue
KFDMedia

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Top Chef recap

IF YOU DON'T WANT TO KNOW THE OUTCOME FROM LAST NIGHT, DON'T READ. SPOILER ALERT******

Top Chef returned last night at 10 p.m. with 16 aspiring cheftestants.

So what did you think?

First thoughts: I have no one to root for - just yet.

My, my isn't this season one big cocky EGO FEST? Actually, I was savoring the smackdowns to come.

Andrew, the profanity spewing, do-you-kiss-your-mom-with-that-mouth guy actually cracked me up. (Though those crazy eyes of his made me wonder if he was off his meds.) My favorite Andrew line of the night was when Richard pulled a mini smoker out to flavor crab cakes: "You're like Felix, dude, a whole bag of tricks."

Wasn't at all surprised about the deep-dish pizza Quickfire Challenge, so why were the contestants?

Um, you're in CHICAGO. Deep-dish pizza is as much a part of the town as the Cubs. Don't these people do their homework?

Right now, I kind of like earnest, funky hair - again contestants with weird hair, what's up with that - Richard, the peach/Taleggio/sweet tea pizza guy. I usually hate pizza with sweet toppings. Sorry, but Hawaiian pizza is a travesty and should never have any place in a pizza oven. (Just say no to pineapple and pizza!) But I think I'd give Richard's pizza a try.

Some of other toppings - butternut squash, marmite (!) one of the most ghastly tasting food items on the planet - didn't really do much for me. (And Stephanie, putting proscuitto in the oven??. In Italy, they always drape it on top - after the pizza comes out of the oven.)

Elimination round: Two chefs each try to make a classic dish such as souffle, lasagna, chicken piccata, steak au poire. Now, this is what makes Top Chef so cool. If you're going to be a Top Chef, you have to know the classics.

So - wow - it was downright painful to hear Ryan give his version of chicken piccata - breaded?? no lemon??? tomatoes?? dude what are you smoking??? - and he couldn't have been more wrong. Loved, loved, loved Colicchio SLAMMING him for being such a dunce. (And Ryan was the guy patting himself on the back for cooking since he was 11.)

The souffle showdown was so sorry. Erik - Mr. Hairy Spider Eyebrows - turned out pepperjack souffle -uh, ugh - that was made with MASHED POTATOES? Is this a joke? So was his sloppy plate.

But Nimma's shrimp scampi and side dish of CAULIFLOWER FLAN OR SCRAMBLE was the sorriest excuse for a classic dish of the night. And, rightly, she was shown the door.

I'm no big Rocco DiSpirito supporter, but the Big Roc stepped up to the plate last night as guest judge. Maybe, I'll forgive him now for endorsing gourmet catfood.

And, any episode with Bourdain is a winner in my book.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Top Chef very soon....


Just got back from Chopped Salad Palooza with some friends. Well, that's what I'm calling our get-together. I'm doing a story soon on chopped antipasti salads. We chowed on three different ones tonight.

Woo-hoo. I'm home in time for Top Chef. It starts in an hour.

Looking forward to seeing Colicchio & Company. (Hope it's a Ted Allen judging night and not a Gail Simmons episode.) Look for a recap tomorrow.

What a ham!



I work with some super-talented people. Page designer and all-around great artist Howard Johnson is one of them.

Today's Life cover of "The Ham" is Howard's creation and I think it's so cool, creative and hilarious. (I've gotten a couple of phone calls today on how funny this was.) Howard took what could have been a really boring story - ho-hum Easter ham - and instead of putting a photo of a baked ham with pineapples on top on the page, he jazzed things up.

Howard and I talked about "the ham story" a couple of weeks ago and began brain-storming.

(Why is there always so much ham leftover at Easter. Geez, Louise, it's like a holiday leftovers horror show!)

I started thinking about horror movies and the Terminator, but Howard came up with the idea of doing a riff on the old movie poster from "The Blob."

I love the people fighting off the ham with a fork.

Now, that's funny stuff, people. And very creative. (One of the editors asked if the G rating was for Glaze. I wish I thought of that earlier.)

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Jill Scott and cheesesteaks


Philadelphia singer-turned actress Jill Scott had an interesting way of bulking up for her role as Mma Ramotswe, the heroine of "The No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency," an HBO film based on the books by Alexander McCall Smith


"We have this thing in Philadelphia, where I come from, called a cheesesteak," she told the United Kingdom's Observer. "It's steak and melted cheese in a roll. I ate at least two of those a week. I've never been a small woman, but I put on 30 pounds. Even then, they added padding to the hips, the heiney, the arms and the boobs."


The cheesesteaks did the trick. Smith saw Scott and said: "Mma Ramotswe, it is so nice to meet you. You are exactly as I imagined you to be."

Return of Top Chef

The baldie and the babe are back.

Top Chef Season 4: Chicago returns on Bravo at 10 p.m. Wednesday. (That's Tom Colicchio on the left and Padma Lakshmi on the right. )
“I think this season is tougher ... because the talent pool is deeper,” Colicchio told the Associated Press. “There are more contenders this year. These are good cooks without a doubt.”

Colicchio said Bravo couldn’t attract such talented people in the past because the show was taken lightly in culinary circles, and few with major cooking aspirations wanted to risk their reputation in a venue as derided as a back-stabbing reality show.
But that has changed.
“It has become respectable,” Colicchio said. “A lot of the chefs who came in season four probably wouldn’t have come out in season two. More and more talented chefs are coming out because the show is being taken seriously.”
One of the reasons they’re taking a chance on “Top Chef” rests with the guest judges. Last year, Eric Ripert, Daniel Boulud and Andre Soltner landed on the program, raising the stature of “Top Chef.”
Here's an interesting tidbit for anyone who loved Bill Buford's excellent book "Heat."
One of the new contestants is Manuel Trevino, former sous chef at Mario Batali’s Babbo, an
Italian restaurant. At Babbo, he worked with author Buford for about a year.
Buford says Trevino, or Memo as he’s known, “has got a crazy amount of talent, can’t believe there are other chefs on the program who have more skills or (have) as much elegant lightness under pressure, and, probably most important, he has a genuine creative fire, a wildness that will result in his coming up with a dish so unexpected and brilliant that he will be a finalist, or else will result in some kind of equally unexpected flameout."
After that assessment, are you really going to miss an episode? Not me.

Second Helpings will resume Thursday recaps and episode comments. (I'll have a spoiler alert at the top of the post.)

I'm really looking forward to this season.

Chicago is a great eating town and home to some of the nation's finest chefs. I wouldn't be surprised to see Charlie Trotter, Rick Bayless (the chef known for outstanding, and authentic Mexican cuisinel) and Rick Tramonto showing up as guest judges.

Monday, March 10, 2008

Don't Rent This Movie

Way back when - actually on April 7 - I predicted I probably wouldn't like "No Reservations" - the "chef" movie starring Catherine Zeta Jones and that kid from Little Miss Sunshine. (Don't confuse it with Anthony Bourdain's excellent TV travel series, No Reservations. Tonight at 10 p.m. on the Travel Channel Tony goes back to his Les Halles kitchen. That's must-see TV.)

But, in a moment of weakness and in need of what I thought would be a good laugh, I recently rented said dumb flick.

Big waste of moo-lah and time. (It would be much better spent on, oh, say "Michael Clayton" or "La Vie En Rose.")

In other words, "No Reservations" was more stinky than week-old salmon.

Zeta Jones, who sported a sour puss throughout the movie, was about as believable and passionate about food as one of those super-skinny, scary-looking Olson twins.

Catherine, pack up your knives and go.

Out of luck with Mexican, in luck with Japanese

Hey all. Hope you had a great food-filled weekend. Took the day off Friday and spent it in the kitchen making French onion soup. Recipe to come soon.

I had dinner Saturday night at Okura Japanese Cuisine in Hockessin. Wonderful shumai (pronounce it shoe-my) - little, juicy pork dumplings (definitely order it) - along with very fresh tasting sashimi and sushi rolls. I liked the kamikaze roll and anything with eel.

Wow, was it crowded. The very flustered host had a hard time keeping up with customers waiting for tables. At first he wouldn't take names or let anyone know how long the wait would be for a table. I actually found it kind of amusing, though it also left a couple of customers steaming.

We almost left but then just decided to cool our heels for maybe 10 to 15 minutes and I'm glad we did.

This was our second attempt at a restaurant for the night.

Our first stop was to the Hockessin Mexican restaurant Palacio Maya.

It was closed. On a Saturday night.

That's not a good sign.

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Reader mail







Homemade pizza is the Reader Mail topic of the day.
Send us your emails. You ask. We answer. Every Friday. (And, yeah, well, sometimes a day early)

Hi Patricia,
A recently purchased pizza stone has put me on a mission to find a pizza crust recipe that I can actually make and like.
After a lot of research, the number of different techniques is overwhelming. And I'm not happy with any of the ones I've tried.
I sure would appreciate any suggestions from you or your readers.
Thank you, and love Second Helpings!
Regards, Patty


Hi, Patty. Woo-hoo. We snagged another reader. Tell all your friends! Thanks for reading!

Here's some information from a pizza story I wrote back in December 2005. The pizza crust and recipes come from Dan Butler, owner of Toscana Kitchen + Bar in Trolley Square.

A FEW NUANCES HELP MAKE THE PERFECT PIE

Preheat the oven to its highest heat level - the hotter, the better. Allow at least 30 to 40 minutes for it to heat fully.

If using a pizza stone, preheat it along with the oven. If you don't have a baking stone, you can form and bake a pizza on a flour- or cornmeal-dusted inverted sheet pan.

Have your baking peel ready and form the dough on it. (A peel, available at most kitchen-supply shops, looks like a long, flat shovel.)

Don't have a peel? You can improvise by forming the dough on another inverted sheet pan. Just remember to dust the peel or pan first with flour or cornmeal so the dough won't stick and the pizza will slide easily onto the stone.

Make and chop all toppings ahead of time.

Don't use too thick a sauce on a pizza; it will turn to paste when baked. Make the sauce thin and well-seasoned.

Always use the best ingredients you can find, such as freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Romano cheese. Mix them with good melters such as whole-milk mozzarella, Monterey Jack, aged cheddar or Gruyere.

Fresh herbs and some toppings, like precooked chicken or duck, should be buried under the cheese so they do not burn. Sprinkle fresh herbs, such as basil or chives, and fresh arugula on the pizza when it's finished baking.

Sausage, pepperoni and most other meats should go on top, since they taste best when crisped.

Use sauteed mushrooms, not raw ones. The pizza isn't in the oven long enough for the mushrooms to cook. Lightly precook other vegetables and marinate them in a flavorful olive oil.

Experiment with figs, Gorgonzola cheese, caramelized onions, roasted peppers, goat and feta cheeses, ricotta, cooked spinach, roasted garlic and andouille and other sausages.

Sources: Dan Butler, chef/owner Toscana Kitchen + Bar; Peter Reinhart's "Crust & Crumb" cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 1998) and "Pizza" (Chronicle Books, $18.95) by Diane Morgan and Tony Gemignani.




PIZZA RECIPES

The foundation of all great pizzas is the crust. Dan Butler, chef/owner of Toscana Kitchen + Bar, says that you shouldn't rush the proofing (rising) of the dough. "The dough will be ready when it's ready," he says. (It may take slightly longer than the suggested two hours, depending on the temperature of your kitchen and amount of flour used.)

Butler also provided four recipes for pizza toppings. (The photo at the top are slices from each of the four pizzas.)

DAN BUTLER'S BASIC PIZZA DOUGH

1 1/2 cups warm water
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
3 teaspoons instant active dry yeast (about 1 1/2 envelopes)
4 1/2 cups bread flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons kosher salt

Cornmeal

Mix warm water and sugar in a stand mixer with a dough hook. Pour in the yeast and let it dissolve. Leave it alone for a few minutes and fermentation (bubbling) will begin. Let it ferment for about 10 minutes. Add flour, oil and salt. Turn the mixer on low until a ball begins to form. Let the dough mix for about 5 minutes. Pull it out and continue to knead the dough on a floured surface; until the dough is smooth and uniformly tense (a couple of minutes). Place in an oiled bowl and cover with a clean towel. Leave in a warm part of the kitchen to rise for about an hour (the dough should double in size and be quite pliable; it may take a little longer than an hour). Cut six even dough balls, place on a board or cookie sheet sprinkled with cornmeal and refrigerate, covered in plastic, for one hour before rolling and topping.
At least 30 minutes before you're ready to bake, preheat the oven, along with your pizza stone, to 500 degrees or higher. If you have a peel, roll or lightly press each dough ball onto the peel into a flat round, lightly flouring the work surface and the dough as necessary. (Do not use more flour than you need.) You may need to let the dough sit a few minutes; it will relax and be easier to roll out. Roll or pat the dough as thin as you like it, turning occasionally and sprinkling with flour, if necessary. If you're using a baking sheet, dust it with flour or cornmeal, then press each dough into a flat round directly onto the sheet. Roll or pat out the dough, as thin as you like. Top the pizza with your favorite toppings. Slide the pizza from the peel onto the stone. If using the baking sheet, set it in the oven. Bake anywhere from six to eight minutes or longer, depending on the heat, until nicely browned. Using the peel, remove the pizza from the oven, slice and serve. Makes six 9-inch pizzas.

PIZZA PIADINA

Extra-virgin olive oil
Chopped fresh garlic
Chopped fresh parsley
Fresh baby arugula leaves
Thin slices of imported prosciutto
Fresh shavings of Parmigiano- Reggiano
Blend together the olive oil, garlic and parsley. Brush it lightly over the pizza dough. Bake until the crust is brown, about six to eight minutes. Using a peel, baking sheet or metal spatula, loosen crust from baking sheet. Transfer pizza crust to plate. Top with arugula, prosciutto and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Drizzle with olive oil. Slice and serve.
PIZZA MARGHERITA

Canned San Marzano tomatoes, crushed
Sliced and grated fresh whole-milk mozzarella (squeeze it gently to release some moisture)
Fresh basil leaves cut into ribbons

Put tomatoes in a bowl and crush. Spread the tomato mixture in a thin layer evenly over the dough, leaving a thin border around the crust. Top with pieces of sliced mozzarella and scatter the grated mozzarella. Bake until the crust is brown, about six to eight minutes. Using a peel, baking sheet or metal spatula, loosen crust from baking sheet. Transfer pizza crust to plate. Sprinkle with fresh basil. Slice and serve.

PIZZA QUATTRO FORMAGGI

Domestic Gorgonzola, crumbled

Grated whole-milk mozzarella

Grated fontina

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Top the dough with the four cheeses. (When the cheese melts, it will make its own sauce.) Bake until the crust is brown, about six to eight minutes. Using a peel, baking sheet or metal spatula, loosen crust from baking sheet. Transfer pizza crust to plate. Slice and serve.

PIZZA FUNGHI
Unsalted butter
A selection of fresh mushrooms, such as crimini, shiitake and maitake, wiped clean and sliced
Chopped shallots
Dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Duck confit (You can find 6-ounce packages of the D'Artagnan brand in gourmet grocery stores.)
Grated fontina cheese
Fresh chives, chopped
Heat a skillet to medium, add a healthy pat of butter, shallots and mushrooms. Saute, stirring often, until they have begun to brown. Add a splash of white wine and cook until the liquid has evaporated. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside some of the mushrooms. Puree the rest of the mushrooms, when cool, in a food processor. (You can add some more butter, about one tablespoon per 4 ounces of mushrooms, to give the mixture some body.) Spread the mushroom puree in a thin layer over the dough, leaving a thin border around the crust. Top with the remaining sliced, sauteed mushrooms and some pieces of the duck confit. Sprinkle grated fontina over the top. Bake until the crust is brown, about six to eight minutes. Using a peel, baking sheet or metal spatula, loosen crust from baking sheet. Transfer pizza crust to plate. Sprinkle with the chives. Slice and serve.

Nine Big Mistakes


Shape magazine featured its "Most Common Kitchen Mistakes…even healthy people make."


Very interesting....read on:

Mistake # 1: You're Overloading On Produce


Sure, making one big grocery run at the start of the week seems like a no-fail way to get your five a day. After all, if those carrots, greens, apples, and berries are around, you'll eat more of them and therefore get more nutrients, right? Wrong. The vitamins and minerals in fruits and vegetables begin to diminish the moment they're harvested. That means the longer you store produce, the fewer nutrients it will contain. After about a week in the fridge, for example, spinach retains just half of its folate and around 60 percent of its lutein (an antioxidant associated with healthy eyes. Broccoli loses about 62 percent of its flavonoids (antioxidant compounds that help ward off cancer and heart disease) within 10 days. You're better off buying smaller batches at least twice a week. If you can't shop every few days, pick up frozen produce. These fruits and veggies are harvested at their peak and are flash-frozen immediately. Because the produce isn't exposed to oxygen, the nutrients stay stable for a year. Just be sure to avoid frozen products packed in sauces or syrups.


Mistake # 2: You're stashing foods in see-through containers

If you're still buying your milk in clear plastic jugs, consider switching to cardboard cartons. Milk is rich in the B vitamin riboflavin; when exposed to light, a chemical reaction is kicked off that reduces the vitamin's potency. Other nutrients, such as amino acids (the building blocks of protein) and vitamins A, C, D, and E, are also affected. And because lowfat and nonfat milk varieties are thinner than whole milk, light can penetrate them more easily. This process, known as photooxidation, can change the flavor of the milk and create disease-causing free radicals. Since grain products (especially whole grains) are also high in riboflavin, they too are susceptible to this breakdown of nutrients and production of free radicals. Avoid the practice of storing dry goods like pasta, rice, and cereals in clear containers on your countertop. Instead, keep them in their original boxes or in opaque containers and stash them in your kitchen cabinets, where they'll be shielded from light.

Mistake # 3: You're too quick to cook your garlic


Legend has it that these pungent little bulbs can ward off vampires, but science shows that if you cook them correctly, they may have the power to fight off an even more frightening villain: cancer. Chop, slice, or crush your cloves, then set them aside for at least 10 minutes before sautéing. Breaking up garlic triggers an enzymatic reaction that releases a healthy compound called allyl sulfur; waiting to cook garlic allows enough time for the full amount of the compound to form.


Mistake # 4: The only time you eat avocados is in guacamole


Adding this green fruit to salads and sandwiches is an easy way to raise your nutritional bar. Avocados are exceptionally rich in folate, potassium, vitamin E, and fiber. It's true that they're also high in fat, but it's the heart-healthy monounsaturated kind. And half an avocado has just 153 calories. One novel way to work them into your diet is to use them as a fat substitute in baking. Many of us have been using applesauce or puréed prunes in place of butter and oil in brownie and cookie recipes for years. Researchers to see if avocado could work in the same way without affecting the taste. They replaced half of the butter in an oatmeal cookie recipe with puréed avocado. Not only did this swap cut the total fat count by 35 percent (avocados have fewer fat grams per tablespoon than butter or oil), it also made the resulting treats softer, chewier, and less likely to crumble than cookies made according to the original recipe. If you're still wary of using such a nontraditional ingredient in sweets, try adding it to savory baked items, such as quick breads and muffins.

Mistake # 5: You skimp on seasonings


Herbs and spices not only enhance the flavor of your cooking without adding fat or sodium, many of these fragrant ingredients also protect you from food poisoning. After testing 20 common seasonings against five strains of bacteria (including E. coli, staphylococcus, and salmonella), researchers found that the higher the antioxidant value of the spice, the greater its ability to inhibit bacterial activity. Cloves, cinnamon sticks, and oregano were the most effective at fighting off these food-borne pathogens. A separate study shows that rosemary, thyme, nutmeg, and bay leaves are also antioxidant-rich Of course, you can't ignore standard food-safety practices, but adding half a teaspoon of herbs or spices to salads, vegetables, and meats can give you extra peace of mind and boost your intake of disease-fighting antioxidants

Mistake # 6: You're a serial peeler


Most of the antioxidants and polyphenols in produce are located very close to the surface of the skin or in the skin itself. Most fruit peels exhibited two to 27 times more antioxidant activity than the pulp of the fruit. Many of us remove the skins from eggplant, bell peppers, peaches, apples, and nectarines while preparing recipes, but we're really just tossing away nutrients and fiber. Gently scrub potatoes and carrots rather than removing their skin, and using a vegetable peeler or sharp knife to pare away as thin a layer as possible from fruits and veggies that must be peeled.

Mistake # 7: You're simmering away vitamins and minerals


Boiling may seem like a simple, no-fuss way to prepare vegetables without adding oil, but this cooking method can cause up to 90 percent of a food's nutrients to leech out. Minerals like potassium and water-soluble vitamins like B and C end up getting tossed out with the water. To keep these essentials from draining away during the cooking process, try steaming (use a minimal amount of water with a steamer basket), microwaving, or stir-frying. A study showed that when certain vegetables were prepared using these techniques, most of the nutrients they contained were spared. And stir-frying scores even more points when you're cooking dark green or orange vegetables. These are rich in beta-carotene, and the oil you use in stir-frying them can increase the amount of the antioxidant you absorb by up to 63 percent. You don't need to use a lot of oil; even just a tablespoon will do.

Mistake # 8: You don't wash all your produce before eating it


Most of us remember to rinse plums and berries before noshing on them, but when was the last time you doused a banana, orange, cantaloupe, or mango with water? It may seem strange to wash peel-and-eat produce, but harmful bacteria lingering on the surface could be transferred to your hands or even to the inside of the fruit when you cut into it. To clean produce, simply run each piece under the tap and gently scrub. Using your hands to rub fruits like oranges, bananas, and peaches under water is sufficient. When you're done, dry the items with a clean cloth or paper towel. It's important to wash your hands with soap and warm water for at least 20 seconds before and after you handle the items to further reduce the spread of bacteria. Also, throw out the outer leaves of greens like cabbage and lettuce before washing, as they've been handled the most and can have the highest levels of bacterial contamination.

Mistake # 9: You're not pairing foods properly


Many of us think about getting enough iron only when we feel lethargic or fatigued. But we should pay attention to our iron intake every day, before symptoms occur. Our bodies absorb about 15 to 35 percent of heme iron (found in meats and seafood), but just 2 to 20 percent of non-heme iron (from beans, whole-grain cereal, tofu, and dark, leafy greens). We can maximize how much iron we take in by pairing the latter group with vitamin C–rich foods and beverages, such as citrus fruits and juices, tomatoes, hot and sweet peppers, strawberries, and melons. On the other hand, drinking tea or coffee at meals can inhibit how much iron we absorb by up to 60 percent. That's because these beverages contain compounds called polyphenols that bind to the iron. Wait until you've completely finished your meal before putting the kettle on to boil.

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Skip Arden Steak Shop

A reader sent me an email to report the demise of Arden Sub Shop:


"I checked it out.... definitely cleaned out and closed. Curiously, the paper in the window reads, "Not for sale or lease. Private property. Please do not trespass."

Monday, March 3, 2008

Happy Birthday to us!


Second Helpings is celebrating its first birthday. Hard to believe. (I brought in red velvet cupcakes today.)

Click on archives (top right) and you can see some of the earlier posts.

Thanks for sending emails and adding comments.

We hope to make the site a little more reader friendly and visually attractive very soon, so please keep reading. And add comments below. Tell me what you might like to see more of - more local dining news? Recipes? National food stories? Etc.