Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Casapulla's with cheese


Went to Casapulla's Hockessin for lunch recently and discovered that it now offers cheese sauce as a steak topping.


Any thoughts? Just like there are the two camps of "chopped" vs. "not chopped" when it comes to cheese steaks, this can be a touchy subject, too. Some say putting cheese sauce (such as Cheez Whiz) on a cheese steak is heresy. Others say it's the only way to go.


I don't mind. For me, it matters where I am going. If I'm getting a steak at a place in south Philly, then Whiz it is for me.


At Casapulla's, I'll get provolone, the cheese that many say should be the only cheese put on a steak. I like the pepperoni Casapulla's uses, too. So, that was my recent lunch, seen above, a baby steak with provolone cheese and pepperoni.


Not sure if other Casapulla's locations are offering cheese sauce. But, it's interesting to see Casapulla's give it a try. I might try it next time I go there, though I am already thinking it just won't seem right with the rest of that classic Casapulla's taste (Casapulla's Hockessin, 1216 Old Lancaster Pike, (302) 234-7827).


As for the rest of my lunch, I was ready to give a big thumbs up to the Herr's Peanut Butter-filled Pretzels. Simply delightful, until I read the dreaded nutrition facts.


600 calories. The whole bag, four ounces, is 600 calories.


Not that Herr would dare to slap a 600 on the label. No, in the worst violation I have ever seen of the servings per container abuse, Herr's treads into new ground with a 4.


Yep. They think the 99-cent, four ounce bag is just your typical four servings. Shame on Herr for this one. They're on mini-boycott for now, even against those corn chips I like so much.


At least I went healthy with my Fuze Strawberry Melon drink. Lots of neat vitamins (who knew we need Chromium?) and only 10 calories per serving (which meant 20 for the bottle, as it seems everyone who writes these labels loves to cut numbers at least in half). What's next? Bag of chips, serving size one chip, servings per container 65?

See Giada sign


I should just declare this Italian foods week on Second Helpings.

Wanted to give you a heads up that Giada De Laurentiis will be signing cookbooks on Wednesday (Oct. 1) beginning at 1 p.m. at the Williams-Sonoma store in the King of Prussa Mall.

That's the closest she's getting to our area during her book tour. (She also will be at the Barnes & Noble in Princeton, N.J., on Oct. 2 at 5 p.m. )

Her latest book is Giada's Kitchen: New Italian Favorites (Clarkson Potter, $32.50.) I just got it and started paging through this morning. The pastina with clams and mussels and pork chops with fennel and caper sauce caught my eye.

Monday, September 29, 2008

Mario, Marcella and Italian recipes

Hope you're having a great day. Mine, so far, has been a blast.

I just got off the phone with Mario Batali.

I love Mario and his rapid-fire way of speaking. I've interviewed him several times over the last few years and he is just as he is on TV - very blunt, very smart, very, very funny. (The photo to the right was taken by News Journal photographer Fred Comegys outside of Mario's Otto restaurant in New York.)

We talked about Italian food (naturally), the upcoming season of "Top Chef", (he won't be a judge) Dover Downs ("home of the Moooonnnnster Mile"), Iron Chef (he'll be back, but took off some time to open a restaurant), his recent food jaunt to Washington, D.C., (He loves Jose Andres Minibar) and Mario's new series "Spain....on the Road Again."

Check out this delightful new PBS series. It airs at 2:30 p.m. on Saturdays.

My story comes out Wednesday.

Over the weekend, I spent time in the kitchen with Marcella Hazan. Well, actually cooking several Marcella Hazan recipes to gear up for an Oct. 7 talk with her at 7:30 p.m. at the Free Library in Philadelphia.

Had the whole gang over on Saturday- to celebrate the Phillies NL East win, yahoo! - and here are two winners from "Marcella Cucina" (HarperCollins, 1997):

Involtini stuffed with tomato, capers, anchovies, and Parmesan

For this earthy, savory, fragrant dish, you can substitute the veal scaloppine with turkey scaloppine, which is readily available in most supermarkets. Adapted from Marcella Hazan's "Marcella Cucina" (Harper Collins, 1997.)

2 or 3 fresh, ripe, firm plum tomatoes
2 medium garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons capers
2 or 3 flat anchovy fillets
1/4 cup chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley
1 pound veal scaloppine (or turkey scaloppine)
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon butter
Flour, spread on a plate
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh
1/3 cup dry white wine
Sturdy round wooden toothpicks

Peel the tomatoes raw using a vegetable peeler with a swiveling blade. Cut them lengthwise in half and scoop out the seeds without squeezing them. Cut them lengthwise into wedges 1/4-inch wide. Chop the garlic, capers, and anchoives together to a very fine consistency, reducing the anchovies to a pulp. Add the parsley and chop it briefly together with the other ingredients. Lay the veal (or turkey) slices flat on a work surface, and coat them with the caper and anchovy mixture, distributing it thinly and uniformly. Sprinkle about 1/2 teaspoon Parmesan on top of each scallop and over it place one or two wedges of tomato. Roll up the scallop tightly and fasten with a toothpick or two. Choose a skillet where all the scaloppine can subsequently fit in one uncrowded layer, without overlaps. Put in the oil and butter and turn on the heat to high. When the butter foam begins to subside, turn the scallops in the flour and slip them into the pan. Brown them on all sides, adding salt and pepper; then transfer them to a plate. Add the wine to the pan, and any juices that may have run onto the plate with the veal. White the wine bubbles, scrape loose the browning residues from the bottom of the pan. When the wine has cooked down, forming a little dense sauce, return the scallops to the pan. Turn them for just a few seconds in the sauce, then transfer the entire contents of the pan to a warm platter and serve at once. Makes 4 servings.

AHEAD-OF-TIME-NOTE: You can cook the scallops an hour or two in advance. Leave the pan as it is. When reheating, before putting in the wine, warm up the pan with about 1 tablespoon of water, loosening the browning residues. When the water has evaporated, add the wine and proceed as described in the recipe.

Baked cauliflower Tuscan-style

2 to 2 1/2 pounds cauliflower
2 tablespoons butter plus butter for smearing the baking dish
Bechamel sauce made with 1 tablespoon butter, 1 1/2 tablespoons flour and 1 cup whole milk
2 extra-large eggs
1/4 pound boiled, unsmoked ham, cut into narrow strips (optional)
Salt
Black pepper ground fresh
1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg
2/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons freshly ground Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Trim away most of the cauliflower's outer leaves and cut off a thin slice from the butt end. Wash the cauliflower in cold water. Bring to a boil enough water to amply cover it and drop in the cauliflower. (You can cut it half to fit more easily in the pot.) Cook about 20 minutes. Drain when it feels tender but firm when prodded with a fork. When the cauliflower is cool enough to handle, cut into small pieces, the root end into smaller pieces than the rest. Choose a skillet that can subsequently accommodate the cauliflower pieces in a single layer without overlapping, put in 2 tablespoons of butter, and turn on the heat to medium high. When the butter foam begins to subside, add the cauliflower pieces, turning them over for about 1 minute to coat them well. Transfer the cauliflower to a bowl and let it cool completely. Turn the oven to 400 degrees. To make the bechamel: Put 1 cup of milk in a saucepan, turning on the heat to medium low. Cook until the milk is just short of boiling, reaching the point when it begins to form a ring of small, pearly bubbles. While heating the milk, put 1 tablespoon of butter in a medium saucepan, turning on the heat under it to low. When the butter has melted completely, stir in the 1 1/2 tablespoons flour, using a wooden spoon. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes. Do not allow the flour to become colored. Remove from the heat. Add the hot milk from the other pan, 2 tablespoons at a time, to the flour-and-butter mixture. Stir continuously. As soon as the first 2 tablespoons of milk have been incorporated into the mixture, add 2 more, continuing to stir. Repeat the process until you have put in 1/2 cup of milk. Then, add the remaining milk all at once, stirring steadily. Place the plan over low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is as dense as thick cream. If you find any lumps forming, dissolve them by beating the sauce rapidly with a whisk. Set aside.Break the eggs into a dish and beat them lightly with a fork. Put all but 3 or 4 tablespoons of bechamel into the bowl with the cold cauliflower. Add the beaten eggs, the optional strips of ham, salt, liberal grindings of black pepper, grated nutmeg and 2/3 cup grated Parmesan. Turn over all ingredients thoroughly with a spoon. Thinly smear the inside of an 7-by-11-inch baking dish with butter. Empty into it the contents of the bowl with cauliflower pieces, leveling them off with a spatula. Spread the remaining 3 or 4 tablespoons of bechamel over the top, and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of grated Parmesan. Bake in the upper middle level of the preheated oven until a light golden crust forms on top, about 30 minutes. Let it settle for several minutes after removing it from the oven. Makes 4 servings.

AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: You can prepare the dish a few hours in advance up to the time it is ready for baking. Cover with plastic wrap and, if refrigerated, bring to room temperature before putting it in the oven.

Friday, September 26, 2008

The funny doesn't end when your life does...

Need a laugh? Enjoy.

Many, many, many moons ago, I began my journalism career writing obituaries.

(Or, as my friend Katie used to call them: "Short stories about life and death." )

It was great training. Believe me, you never want to get anyone's name, occupation or affliation wrong in an obit. Upsetting already grieving people is no way to start your day (actually evening).

While few people begin a career in journalism on the "dead desk" anymore, I still appreciate a well-written obituary.

Here's one that recently appeared in the Dallas Morning News - and, yes, it is real - that gave me a good chuckle this morning. (Thanks Katie!)

Merritt, Edward "Bruce."
Born April 3, 1951 in North Carolina . He was one of eight children. His older sisters regularly beat him up, put him in dresses, and then forced him to walk to the drugstore to buy their Kotex and cigarettes. After graduation from high school he went on to lead a life of luxury in the United States Air Force. After escaping from the government, he spent most of his life as a mechanic, husband, and father. Bruce Merritt never met a stranger, and in many ways was stranger than most. He is survived by one daughter, two grandchildren, two ex-wives, unpaid taxes, and many loyal loving friends. Services will be held on Tuesday, September 23rd at 2:00pm. Eastgate LBJ @ Northwest Highway 972-270-6116.

New restaurants: UPDATES

Ooops: Forget to post this earlier, my esteemed colleague and fellow critic Eric Ruth checks out Latino dishes at five local restaurants.

Here are his picks.


And it's certainly no secret that I play the field - when it comes to restaurants.


My flings are usually short-term and then it's time to move on. I'm going to very busy in the next few weeks with so many new restaurants hitting the scene.

If the economy really is tanking, someone apparently forgot to tell local restaurateurs.
Sussex County saw a crop of new eateries this summer with Stingray Sushi Bar & Asian-Latino Grill, the Porcini House (Formerly Chez La Mer) and Lupo di Mare in Rehoboth; Agave Mexican Grill in Lewes; Que Pasa, Nalu Hawaiian Surf Bar & Grille and Ponos in Dewey Beach, among them.

And a slew of upstate newcomers includes a Newark Spanish tapas restaurant (photo above is Ole Tapas Tapas Lounge & Restaurant in Newark), a Vietnamese soup joint in Bear, Malaysian cuisine in Brandywine Hundred and a Glen Mills, Pa., steak/seafood house.

Read more about them in my story in today's 55 Hours.

And others are coming. In the coming weeks, you'll be hearing more about:

- Chef Julio Lazzarini, who is about to depart Deep Blue Bar and Grill in Wilmington, as he works on Orillas, his family's new tapas restaurant at 412 N. Market St., planned for late October.

- Matt Curtis, former chef at Toscana and another Dan Butler restaurant alum, who has resurfaced at Union City Grille on Union Street in Wilmington, where he has taken over ownership of the restaurant and kitchen.

- Restaurateur Alex Grant and The Rebel, his 50-seat eatery at 201 N. Market St. that will offer traditional Southern dishes -- think chicken barbecue -- and Caribbean-style offerings such as curry and jerk chicken and red snapper. Grant got his start working for Bernie Malloy's water ice/pizza slice stand in Wilmington.

- The Qdoba Mexican Grill scheduled for 837 Market St. by November

- The Public House, a Philadelphia-based operation offering "Upscale American Cuisine," will soon move into the space where the Great Room was located in the Residences at Rodney Square.

- Coming soon to the Wilmington Riverfront is Kooma Japanese Restaurant, a contemporary Asian eatery.
UPDATE: Here's some info on Kooma from The News Journal archives ....BUT I don't have an opening date yet.
Restaurant owners Scott Kim and John Jang have a 10-year lease to take 5,200 square feet in the Justison Landing project being developed by Buccini/Pollin Group Inc. of Wilmington.
Kooma will be located in the heart of a 10-building complex in the Town Center, according to Kevin H. Grubb, residential development manager with Buccini/Pollin.

It will be housed in a building, now under construction, closest to the former Kahunaville nightclub, Grubb said.
The restaurant will have sushi and martini bars, as well as private rooms. There's a Kooma in West Chester. It's located on West Gay Street and was given the best new restaurant award for 2004 by Main Line Today magazine, according to the West Chester Business Improvement District. There is a third Kooma in Columbus, Ohio.

- UPDATE: A Second Helpings reader asked for more information about the "updating" at Takumi, the Japanese restaurant that has taken over the former Utage restaurant location. I stopped in earlier this week to pick up a menu and see the interior. There have been some minor fixes to the interior and a good scrubbing - but the major renovations are about to begin - work by Mitchell Associates in Wilmington. The restaurant will NOT shut down during the work. (They will be working on the private room first - and then will progress to main dining room.) Menu is still very similar to old Utage, though owners say a new menu will be unveiled in a few weeks.
- Downtown Newark is getting The Cereal Bowl, 181 E. Main St., 737-4001; an eatery specializing in - guess what?

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Why ask why?


There's really no reason for this photo, taken by our photo editor Ron Solimon, to be on a food blog, other than, it's funny.
Maybe that guy reaching for McCain's hand also had a cheesesteak he wanted to give the Senator?

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Lots of food festivals and parties going on and coming up this month and next.

The photo (above) shot by News Journal photographer Ginger Wall (as are all the pixs on this post) was taken at last week's The Farmer & The Chef fundraiser at the Center on the Riverfront.
That's Home Grown Cafe owner Eric Aber making ice cream with dry ice. It was kind of spooky - hey, Halloween is right around the corner - and definitely attracted a crowd.

From left: Kate Terranova talks with Ken Simmons and Maggie McDonald of Willey Farms of Townsend.

And below, Aughtum Slavin, Rachel Payne and Rebecca McLain of Delcastle High School prepare chilled watermelon soup with grilled cantaloupe and corn fritters with help from Chef Jim Berman and Filasky Produce.


Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Fun food pixs

My pal, News Journal photographer Fred Comegys, was out and about this weekend at several events.
We're frequent partners in crime, but, this time, he covered the Taste of Newark festivities without me.

Here is Fred's photo of Walter Staib, owner of the City Tavern in Philadelphia, during a cooking demonstration. Staib, who is German, has a new Oktoberfest menu running now at his Old City restaurant.

Below is Chef Timothy McLaughline of the new Kildare's Irish Pub on Main Street in Newark serving up pulled pork sliders with peppered slaw. Now that sounds good.

Taste test at Troy


The first time I go to a new pizza place, I usually like to try their pizza. But in my first trip to Troy Pizzeria & Family Restaurant, I went with the cheesy bread sticks (above top, $4.45) and a small turnover with pepperoni ($7.28).
Neither was a disappointment. Hidden within the turnover was plenty of pepperoni, no skimping whatsoever, which is always a plus. If you did not know, some places would call this a stromboli, but here, it's turnover. Other places use the same distinctions, their strombolis will have various Italian meats, peppers, onions, etc. If all you want is just mozzarella cheese, pizza sauce and other pizza toppings, order the turnover at Troy.
The cheesy bread sticks were just as enjoyable, practically a small meal themselves. Already a bit spicy on their own, the sticks come with garlic dipping sauce (which I didn't use) and marinara sauce (which I did). Be sure to give these a try.
Troy Pizzeria & Family Restaurant is in the Meadowood II shopping center near Newark on Kirkwood Highway/Capitol Trail (people use both names for that area).
You can reach Troy at (302) 455-0101. The place is a welcome addition to the takeout scene, with a menu that goes beyond pizza and steaks, with other items including "oven baked rustic sandwiches" and dinner menu that includes flounder and crab cakes. But for me, the regular stuff will just do, and I hope to try the pizza itself next time.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Parc and Buddakan restaurants


Spent some time in Philly this weekend restaurant hopping. Forgot to bring along a camera - though I did take some truly awful cellphone shots, which I don't think will do any place justice. So sorry - I can only tell, not show.

My favorite stop was the new Parc restaurant at 18th and Locust streets in Rittenhouse Square; 215-545-2262. Yep, another Stephen Starr eatery, but so worth the trip. (Go. Make a reservation. Now.) It reminds me of Philadelphia's version of New York's Pastis.


This beautiful Parisian style bistro was buzzing with activity. The doors were flung open and the bar and the sidewalk tables packed. It's just doors away from Barclay Prime. I was expecting to see "the beautiful people" - which I did, to a point - but there were also many patrons - tourists? - carrying backpacks and wearing ballcaps. (What's UP with that? A ballcap at a nice restaurant on a Saturday night? In Center City?) As it got later, more people adapted the urban "dressy casual" attire.
I didn't bother with reservations - a huge mistake on a Saturday night any place in Philly. But we got there around 7 p.m. - you can valet for $20 (!) - and just planned to have drinks and apps since we had a later reservation at Buddakan. We asked for a table - and were told we'd only have a 30-minute wait. (Which came and went; it was more like 50 minutes.) We ordered champagne at the bar - it's $16 a glass for Perrier-Jouet. But they do have Chandon sparkling wine. (Much cheaper.)
We got a carafe of the "house white" - Laboure Roi for $28 - it actually comes in a green bottle and split a charcuterie plate ($16) of sliced meats, cornichons, pickled onions and a wonderful, creamy chicken liver mousse spread. The steak tartare ($15) was nicely spicy and we cleaned up a plate of tuna carpaccio ($15). The bread is made in house - very nice crust and good chew. Honestly, I wanted to stay for more food and can't wait to go back very soon. I love the vibe of this place.
Later, we dropped into Buddakan. (Valet parking: 18 beans. Gulp. But you try and find parking on Saturday night in Old City.) Friends had never been to this famed Pan-Asian eatery at 325 Chestnut St., (215) 574-9440 and were looking forward to chowing down. Buddakan, now 10 years old, is one of Starr's biggest hits and remains one of the most popular places in the city. (According to the 2008-09 Zagat Restaurant Survey.)


I used to be a big Buddakan fan - I even went to a party there in 2000 for John McCain, long story short I was writing about parties in the city during the Republican National Convention - but during this visit I found the restaurant to be resting somewhat on its laurels.


The pork dumplings ($10) were dried and overcooked, as was the crab fried rice ($14) which had more egg than crabmeat. Tuna pizza seemed so "been-there, done that" that I couldn't work up much enthusiasum. Maybe other restaurants have copied this dish so much that it just doesn't rock my world anymore? I dunno.


What would make me return was the moist and delicious Japanese black cod ($25) in miso, the sizzling whole fish with black beans ($34) - as good as any I've had in Chinatown - and the Buddakan style sashimi ($16). The Zengria cocktail ($8) is a winner, as is the "Enlightment" ($11), a Tequila cocktail garnished with cucumber.


Service is usually a high point at a Starr restaurant and Buddakan certainly doesn't disappoint. That said, this wouldn't be my first choice for a Philadelphia dining experience.

Friday, September 19, 2008

More Reader Mail (UPDATE)


Reader mail continues. Stay tuned. I have another letter coming later today. Update: Didn't get an answer....I'll post it when I do.

Every Friday. You ask. We answer. Send your emails to ptalorico@delawareonline.com.


QUESTION: Hi Pat,
Are there any restaurants nearby (I live in Newark, DE) that serve good German food? I can't find any that serve a good Sauerbraten and spaetzel. (Please don't direct me to the Oktoberfest coming up at the Sagerbund).

If there are no nearby, do you have any nearby suggestions in NJ, MD or PA?

Thanks

Bob Biros
Newark, DE


ANSWER: Bob, are up for a roadtrip? I can't think of any remaining German style restaurant in Delaware. (And for those who do want to check out German offerings in Delaware this weekend, I offer you Ryan Cormier's story today on Delaware Saengerbund Oktoberfest.)


Or you could try The Old Stein Inn, 1143 Central Avenue Edgewater, Maryland 21037; (410)798-6807; opened in 1983 by Karl and Ursula Selinger from Neustadt an der Weinstrasse in the Rhineland Pfalz region of Germany.

In Baltimore, there's the Eichenkranz Restaurant. Here's the link. Or The Guard House in Gladwyne, Pa., 610-649-9708. Here's the web site.

Bob, I definitely would call the restaurant before you hop in the car to make sure it has the experience you are looking for. (I haven't been to any of these restaurants.)

Readers, any other thoughts, opinions?

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Reader Mail


I was such a slacker last week that I've decided to give you an appetizer on the house today - Reader Mail, a little earlier.

But first, let me take care of some business.



After three visits, I'm already a fan - though I debated sharing this restaurant with readers.


A few reasons: I probably won't get a seat there again and I'm not sure if the restaurant can handle an increase in business. Also, the four-month-old Dumpling House already has very loyal patrons who aren't going to be happy that I spilled the beans about this hidden restaurant (it almost feels like a private club.)....Please, don't kill the messenger, people, it's my job.



Just an FYI: I hear that Takumi, the Brandywine Hundred Japanese eatery taking over the Independence Mall location that formerly housed Utage, opens Monday. Get the chopsticks ready.

If you're a fan of Los Angeles Times food writer and author Russ Parsons, who penned "How to Pick a Peach: The Search for Flavor from Farm to Table", then head to his 7 p.m. Monday night "dessert" lecture at Longwood Gardens. I'll be there!

And a note to the Second Helpings reader about the La Tolnateca/La Tolteca query: I'm still working on an answer and I'll hopefully post it by Friday.

Now, onto the mailbag:

QUESTION: Patricia -- I heard that Vincente's closed. Do you know the story? I hope all is well with Mr. Mancari and his family. Any info you can share would be appreciated. T. Miller

ANSWER: Hi T. Vincente's has a long Delaware history. For years, the Italian eatery was on Lincoln Street in Wilmington and it was famous for its "talking menu" - that would be owner Vincent Mancari - as well as Mr. Mancari's theatrical tableside, homemade Caesar salads. I remember once one of my family members asked Mr. Mancari to explain the veal special he was offering that night and he actually drew a picture of it on the white tablecloth. Very endearing.
In recent years, the restaurant moved to Glen Mills, Pa., and, according to some readers and critic Eric Ruth, it had lost its luster. I tried to call the restaurant, but the number has been disconnected. Here’s the message posted on the web site:

Welcome To Vincente's Restaurant
We would like to thank everyone we had the pleasure to serve at our restaurant. Visit here for any updates if we reopen anywhere it will be posted here. You may still E-mail us at vincent@vincentesrestaurant.com and also to leave a comment visit our guestbook.

Thank you very much Vincente.

QUESTION: I got a call from David M. who wanted to know where to find good hush puppies... Also, when he lived in Key West, Fla., he said he ate snacks that were similar to hush puppies but flavored with garlic.

ANSWER: Anyone know where to find something like that around here? I'm drawing a complete blank....I know some local crabhouses offer hush puppies, but when I get crabs, my main concentrations is on the crustaceans and not any side dishes.

QUESTION: Dear Ms. Talorico: As a transplanted Washingtonian/New Yorker (missing the food of those two cities), I read your column with great interest. Last night, my husband and I ate at the Korean Barbeque and Sushi Bar at Liberty Plaza in Newark, where we have been many times. Since I haven't seen anything in the paper recently, I just wanted to let you know-the food is really fabulous there. The dumplings are the best I have had in this area, and the stir-fried pork with tofu is delicate and spicy. Perhaps you know this already! Best, Jessica W. Graae

ANSWER: Hi Jessica. Welcome to Delaware. I haven't been to the Korean Barbecue in years, but it's on my radar and we'll have something about it in an upcoming story. I can't say more yet, but keep reading The News Journal, www.
delawareonline.com.; and www.delawareonline.com/secondhelpings! Also, if you love dumplings, go to the Dumpling House. (See above.)

QUESTION: I visited the new restaurant today called Hot Plate not knowing what to expect, thinking it would be like the old Denny's. What a surprise. The food was great, service was polite, and the managers were ever present.There somethimg strange going on here - the employees love their jobs, the food was good, and the atmosphere was relaxing and family oriented, and the parking was plentiful. What a wonderful suprise! I suggest that you try it, and I'll guarantee that you'll like Hot Plate.

ANSWER: Thanks for the tip. You don't say where it is, but I'm guessing it's Hot Plate Family Restaurant, 1502 N. DuPont Highway (U.S. 13), New Castle; 322-8061.

Looks like I'm hopping in the car and checking this one out soon.

I won't drink to that....

The secret to a long life?

No meat, no booze?

A 113-year-old, recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest living male last year, eats mostly vegetables and believes the key to longevity is not drinking alcohol.

I'm going to pretend I didn't read that.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Economy in toilet? Eat, drink and be happy


While a visit to a five-star restaurant might be out of the question, a nice bottle of wine at home?
Definitely.
In spite of, or maybe because of, tough economic times, many Americans "cling to" their smallest, most indulgent pleasures, according to Mintel, a company that tracks worldwide trends.

New research shows market sales for chocolate, cigarettes and alcohol - known as "sin stocks" - perform well during times of economic recession.

"Chocolate, cigarettes and alcohol again seem relatively recession-proof," said Marcia Mogelonsky, a Mintel senior analyst. "People might be cutting back or switching to store-brands, but they definitely aren't giving up their small daily indulgences."


Mogelonsky points out that most Americans can still afford chocolate, cigarettes and alcohol, no matter how much their finances have been cut

Retail sales for the chocolate market have grown 22 percent from 2002 to 2007 (to $16.3 billion). Motivated by high gas prices and expensive bar tabs, more Americans may be opting to drink at home. But that doesn't mean they're drinking less.
Research from Mintel shows the market for at-home alcohol is expected to reach $77.8 billion in 2008, a 32 percent increase from 2003. Mintel also expects both in-home and out-of-home alcohol sales to rise steadily in coming years.
"Because people are being so cautious with their spending, they feel they are entitled to small rewards and they won't give them up easily," Mogelonsky said.

Lunch for eight with Kate





"Jon & Kate Plus Eight," the TLC reality series about a family with eight children, has a huge fan base.



Much bigger than I even realized, judging by the phones and emails I've already received today about my story with Kate Gosselin, the mother of two sets of multiples - 4-year-old sextuplets and 7-year-old twins.

Travel adventures


Slovenia is a lot like Delaware. No one seems to know where it is or much about it.


The people I met during my travels to the country last year - especially Bogdan Toncic at the Kenda Manor - were so welcoming. Slovenia borders Italy, Croatia, Austria and Hungary.




Sorry, no recipe. I tried to write it down, but the chef wanted me to pay attention to his cooking and not write down exact amounts. I did buy a cookbook "The Cuisine of Slovenia" during my trip, but the recipe for zlikrofi wasn't exactly the same as Klavdij Pirih's. If you want it, send me an email at ptalorico@delawareonline.com. But you'll have to convert the grams and mililiters.


I'll drank many Slovene wines, which I mostly enjoyed. My favorite is Ribolla Gialla - which is known as Rebula in Slovenia. I brought a few bottles of regional wines, such as Vitovska and Teran, down to a house we rent in Tuscany.


We popped a few open one night with a group of friends, but I must say I enjoyed them much better in Slovenia than in Tuscany.


I think setting and "the moment" sometimes has a lot to do with enjoying wine.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Dogs in Dover

Look tasty? It was. The above is from Dover Dog Grille, which opened earlier this year and has a wide variety of hot dogs on the menu. How so? Isn't a hot dog just a hot dog? Well here you can have hot dogs that are pork, all-beef or kosher, you can have them flame broiled, grilled or deep fried, and you can dare to try offerings such as the Sea Dog or even a Pizza Dog.

Their pizza dog comes with pizza sauce, mozzarella cheese and pepperoni. Other interesting items that others might like (not me of course) are The Baxter, a hot dog with mashed potatoes, chili and shredded cheddar cheese. On my visit last week, I just got a normal dog with mustard and some fries, served in the box you see above. They have bratwurst, Italian sausage, burgers and a few sub choices, too.

You can find the Dover Dog Grille at 1156 S. Bay Road, not far from the entrance to the Dover Air Force Base. The place can be a little tricky to find if you are coming from the north. The best bet is to take your highway of choice into Dover and get on Route 10 East. When it dead ends into Bay Road at the Air Force base, take a left and D.D.G. is about a quarter-mile ahead on the left. Call (302) 734-9282 or go to http://www.doverdoggrille.com/ to learn more.

Lastly, where do people stand on high fructose corn syrup and its use in sodas and other drinks? They even sneak it into Snapple! So much for being made from the best stuff on Earth. One soda that does not use corn syrup is Deerfield Trading Company Gourmet Soda, found at Happy Harry's/Walgreens locations. Now, taking out the much-maligned sweetener isn't going to save you calories. But it does make for a better tasting soda. I've seen Jones Pure Cane Soda out there, but haven't tried it yet. Any good? This, of course, is knowing that soda is not the best part of daily diet. But us non-coffee drinkers need something, right?

Update: Forgot to pass along some wing sauce feedback from a reader, who said that Dreamers' Cafe at 1312 Philadelphia Pike offers eight levels, from Lullaby to You Must Be Crazy. This person was crazy enough to order 50 of the Crazy-wings, and reported it took a couple days to finish the order. Has anyone else been Crazy enough to try these wings?

Monday, September 15, 2008

Shed some clothes at the Green Room

Did you know that the Hotel du Pont is on Facebook?

(My colleague Ryan Cormier recently pointed it out to me. Seriously. He doesn't spend all his time in Dewey Beach. Things you don't know about Ryan: He's a classy guy.)

And there's a new Facebook post:

Today at 4:11 p.m., it was announced that the Green Room has relaxed its dress code.

"Jackets for gentleman are no longer required, and 'business casual' is now appropriate for all meals for all days of the week.

"Of course, one may still 'Dress for Dinner' if one prefers."

Burger joint bites the dust

The Burger War of Concord Pike (U.S. 202) has claimed a casualty. According to a NJ photographer, Cheeburger Cheeburger on Wilmington-West Chester Pike (U.S. 202), near Glen Mills, Pa., has closed its doors.

(I just tried calling the phone number and there's no answer, only "A Welcome to Verizon" message, instructing callers to redial the number. The Glen Mills location is no longer listed on the main website.)

Competition for burger dollars on this heavily traveled thoroughfare in recent years has been crazy especially with Five Guys, Jake's and Charcoal Pit - and hot dogs lovers now have the new Johnnie's Dog House as well as the much beloved Jimmie John's.

I thought the burgers were pretty decent at Cheeburger Cheeburger, but the staff was very, very young. Here's my review from last May for your reading pleasure:

It took only minutes to suddenly feel very, very old at Cheeburger, Cheeburger, a retro '50s-style hamburger joint off U.S. 202 that opened in February [2007].

Waiting for a young hostess to seat us recently, a dining pal made a joke about the eatery's name and a classic "Saturday Night Live" skit.

The teen greeter gave us a blank stare.

"Um, you know, the Greek guys in the Chicago diner? John Belushi, Dan Aykroyd and Bill Murray?"

Not even a glimmer of recognition.

(Oh boy. Bail now. If you have to explain the joke, it isn't funny.)

"Cheeburger, cheeburger? No Coke! Pepsi!" Ha, ha.

The silence was deafening.

Obviously born long after Belushi headed to that Great Big Diner in the Sky, the dewy-skinned child shook her head at the fossils standing before her.

"Oh," she finally said, with heart-breaking innocence. "I think my mother may told me something about that."

Ouch. We closed our yaps and felt sorry for the poor misguided youth of today.

The only Belushi they know is the schlub starring in that painfully unfunny sitcom, "According to Jim."

Slumping to the table, we nursed our wounds by overindulging in shakes, root beer floats, egg creams, French fries, onion rings and burgers. Our beloved Belushi, the true Belushi, John Belushi -- google him now, you crazy, mixed-up kids! -- would have been proud.

But, perhaps, we had stumbled on what just may be the double, secret plan of Cheeburger, Cheeburger, a Florida chain that's been around since 1986.

Make everyone feel like old fogies and they'll just eat, eat, eat?

Evil, yet deliciously brilliant. And judging by the number of customers who have had their photographs snapped after chowing down a pounder ($10.39), the chain's 20-ounce monster of a burger, this fiendishly clever scheme seems to be working quite nicely.

We scanned the happy faces of so many people who had pounded pounders -- holy moly! -- and wondered why a customer would willingly consume that much meat in one sitting. Were they drowning their sorrows after trying in vain to explain to the younger-than-springtime staff that there once was this contraption known as a rotary telephone?

Or, maybe, just maybe, it's simply that Cheeburger, Cheeburger's hand-formed, rough-edged, juicy patties are too hard to resist. A few bites into the three-quarter pound Delirious burger ($8.39) and we began to pray: Forgive us O Lord, our daily cholesterol sins. This is a burger that's difficult to stop eating.

Cheeburger, Cheeburger's decor is faux retro. Walls are princessy pink, tables and banquettes are aquamarine. Cut-outs of a hip-swiveling Elvis, a debonair Humphrey Bogart and a cutesy-cute Betty Boop decorate the walls along with other tchotchkes.

As almost everyone in Delaware knows, a real, honest-to-goodness 1950s setting can be found just down the road at the Charcoal Pit. But Cheeburger, Cheeburger, which spears its buns with toothpicks and olives, could easily usurp the Pit's King of Burgers throne.

Toppings include artichoke hearts, chopped garlic, guacamole, pineapple, sun-dried tomatoes and A1 Steak Sauce. You can go as weird and wild as you like.

At 5.5 ounces, the classic burger ($4.99) is a good choice for smaller appetites, though the patty tends to get lost in the roll and among the thick-sliced onions and tomatoes. I'd probably go for the "semi-serious," ($5.89) a 7-ounce patty. Kids meals ($4.99) are made-in-the-shade cool: The burgers and fries arrive at the table in either a paper '64 Mustang or a '57 Chevy.

Non-meat eaters can get the grilled portobello mushroom melt ($7.39), a hefty sandwich served with sautéed onions and Swiss cheese on rye bread. The menu also has "invent your own salads" and grilled chicken breast sandwiches.

But this is a burger joint. Why bother with anything else?

You can't have a burger without fries. Definitely order the "frings" basket ($4.89), a combination of both French fries and onion rings.

The eatery shines with its shakes and malts ($2.99 for a half, $4.39 for a regular) -- there are 72 flavors to chose from, including chocolate banana, Snickers cheesecake and caramel apple. A frosty and very good root beer float ($3.99) arrives in a stainless steel tin.

Maybe we weren't old enough to truly appreciate the merits of a vanilla egg cream ($2.09). To me, it tasted like a watered down vanilla soda.

But the drink that really got us excited was the Shake-A-Soda. Supposedly, our server would shake up the drink at our table. Now this daring act, I had to see. Shaking a soda usually results in a messy, volcanic explosion.

The watermelon soda ($2.09) came to the table in a plastic martini-style shaker and was then -- placed on the table. No explosion, no eruption. Talk about anti-climactic.

"Hold your finger on the lid when you pour. Sometimes, they come off and splash all over the table," our teen server said.

What would Belushi say?

We know, even if she didn't: "No Coke. Pepsi."

Lime beer, anyone? Anyone?


Things that make you go hmmmmm: According to Advertising Age, Bud Light Lime had a big summer.


I remember lime beers being pretty big in Florida a few years ago, but gotta admit this certainly isn't my beverage of choice....

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Phils phood (UPDATE)


Woo-hoo. The sun is shining and it's game-on.

I'm headed to the Phils game this afternoon with my Uncle Fran, the funniest and most awesome person on the planet, and we have great seats. (Thanks, Walt. You rock.)

Uncle Fran is a South Philly native, as well as a diehard Phils fan. He's so much fun to hang with. On the phone this morning, we've started plotting stadium eats: Probably split a Tony Luke's pork sandwich (if the line isn't out-of-control) ...peanuts....a dog.....and definitely a beer (or two ....)

I'm driving, he's bringing the Tums.

Go Phils! Isn't September b-ball great?

UPDATE: Hey, wait a minute, where's the sun?? C'mon Mother Nature, don't rain on my parade. Uncle Fran and I are psyched and - Hamels is pitching today.....Have a heart...
UPDATE II Sunday: What a game! Hamels pitched and Rollins had a 2-run home run! Phils win it 7-3 and the Mets LOST. Life is good.

Uncle Fran was a blast - and he seemed to know everyone at the game. Our favorite expression when he ran into someone he knew: "What are you doing here?"

("Classic South Philly line," my uncle said. "I guess they forget this is a baseball stadium.")

It was a little humid at first, but then it turned into a beautiful afternoon/evening. We skipped the Tony Luke's - is there ever NOT a line at the darn stand? Besides, Uncle Fran and I like to go to John's Roast Pork, not too far from his house, so we weren't missing much... But we did load up on dogs and peanuts and really good Oktoberfest beer - not sure who made it - Uncle Fran got the beer, while I stood in a short line for the dogs and peanuts.

Double-header today. (On Sunday.) Just an FYI: the T-shirt hawkers already were outside Citizens Bank Park in full-force touting merchandise for the upcoming Eagles-Dallas match-up. Some of the sayings on the shirts were about as, uh, colorful and as offensive as you'll find.... especially the dude who didn't have a hard time finding a word to rhyme with Romo....and didn't mind shouting it at the top of his lungs.

Classic South Philly...

Friday, September 12, 2008

Happy Friday (UPDATE)

Hey food fans,

Reader mail is coming soon.

I had a crazy morning, but hang in there, I'll get to the mailbag sometime today.
UPDATE: OK, I'm lame. The day got away from me and I can't get to the mailbag today. Look for Reader Mail next week.
PLEASE, keep the email coming: ptalorico@delawareonline.com.
Every Friday. You ask. We answer.

In the meantime, chew on this:

- I had a phone interview with Kate Gosselin from the popular TLC TV series "Jon & Kate Plus Eight." (Thanks Kate!) She's funny. Story is coming Wednesday. But here's a tease, Kate told she that when she makes her kids lunch - she has two sets of multiples - she tries to cut the sandwiches into the shape of the first letter of the kid's name. How cute is that? My favorite 5-year-old would so love that.

- USA Today's Jerry Shiver interviews Food Network stars about farmers market finds.

- Stay tuned for the new public television series, "Spain....on the road again," which premieres Sept 20 in primetime and features Chef Mario Batali and Gwyneth Paltrow on a culinary cultural road trip thru Spain.
New York Times food writer Mark Bittman also is part of this series. Bittman told me about the series months ago - he was taking Spanish lessons at the time, actually last time we chatted he was in a cab on the way to lessons (and yelling at the driver for taking the wrong street....that's Bittman..) - I can't wait to see it. Here's a preview.

- Did you see that the new Brandywine Hundred restaurant Rasa Sayang Malaysian Cuisine in Independence Mall, 1601 Concord Pike, Suite 73, has opened??
Anyone been yet?? If so, comment, comment, comment.
Later, potaters.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Shoo, shoo - boo boo


So I learned my lesson (well, kind of..) about making fun of a regional dish.


After I joked last week about "wet bottom" shoofly pie at the Green Dragon Market in Lancaster County, Pa., plenty of readers - through emails and phone calls - slapped my hand, so to speak, with a wooden spoon.


I'm still going through the messages on my voicemail.


You can stop calling now. Mea culpa. Here's the follow-up story today.


I guess I'll keep my thoughts about whoopie pies (tee-hee) to myself.


Look, maturity isn't my strong suit, OK?


Tuesday, September 9, 2008

Marcella: Update

UPDATE: Look for a story about Marcella in Wednesday's New York Times Dining In/Dining Out section.


"No one has ever done more to spread the gospel of pure Italian cookery in America," said the late New York Times food editor Craig Claiborne.

Claiborne was talking about Marcella Hazan.

Those who appreciate true, classic Italian cuisine - not to be confused with Italian-American - know her simply as Marcella.
Her books, recipes and beautiful writing are inspirational. I met Marcella and her husband, Victor, a well-known food and wine writer, several years ago in Philadelphia during their book tour for "Marcella Cucina."
I had never traveled to Italy at the time, but it was on my radar, especially Venice.
The Hazans were passionate about Venice - they had just closed Marcella's cooking school there and had recently relocated to Florida. They missed Italy's food, people and atmosphere. They encouraged me to go and even said they would help with a place to stay.
Since that meeting - maybe 10 years ago? - I've been to Italy five times (and Venice twice.) I can't stay away. Each fall, I try to discover a new Italian region before settling in for a week's stay in the countryside outside of Florence.
Marcella and Victor Hazan will be coming to Philadelphia's Parkway Central Library, 1901 Vine St., at 7:30 p.m. on Oct. 7 to chat about Marcella's new book "Amarcord: Marcella Remembers" (Gotham Books). I'm very honored that I was asked to interview them during this special Philadelphia library appearance.
The cost is $14 general admission, $7 students.
Any questions you want me to ask Marcella and Victor? Please comment or email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.


Wings: Who has the hottest?

At a recent stop at Buffalo Wild Wings (the one in Bear, though here's hoping the new Stanton location can open as soon as it can), I had my standard fare of boneless wings and mozzarella sticks. Once again, I was not disappointed. Buffalo Wild Wings may not be the fanciest place. But who's looking for fancy when it comes to wings and other bar snacks?

As usual, I had the wings made in medium sauce, but ordered an extra with a cup of their hot sauce on the side. I do this because I like dipping the mozzarella sticks in buffalo sauce, too. It's a good combo, but the hot sauce there a BWW is pretty hot, and it's two levels from the top. Above hot are "Wild" and "Blazin'."

Whew. Who gets Blazin'? Anyone? If you do, how do you survive?

And who has the hottest wing sauce out there? I don't mean from stores, but among restaurant and takeout places. The hot at BWW had me sweating pretty well. I can't imagine people enjoying hotter sauces, but maybe this needs investigating. Any suggestions?

As far as mozzarella cheese with buffalo sauce, anyone else do this? I'll also accept people who support putting mustard on french fries.

Monday, September 8, 2008

New places

The day back from vacation is always about playing catch-up.

Not sure if you saw my story last week that Takumi Fine Japanese Restaurant is taking over the spot formerly occupied by Utage Authentic Japanese Cuisine.


The Oka family, owners of Utage Authentic Japanese Cuisine, closed the 22-year-old eatery in Independence Mall shopping center off U.S. 202 in Brandywine Hundred on Aug. 30.


But Hideyuki Okubo, who has worked as a sushi chef at Utage for more than 10 years, says he and his wife Jessie Okubo and Jessie's sister plan to open Takumi, another Japanese eatery, at the same site.


The chef says he expects to begin slicing sashimi again there by Sept. 15. (Call 658-8887 or 658-8881 for more information.)


Hideyuki Okubo, a graduate of the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka, Japan, has worked as a chef in five-star hotels in Tokyo and Kobe.

The Okubos are planning many interior updates, as well as adding a Pagoda terrace, but will keep the eatery opened during the renovations.

Independence Mall owner Roseanna Richards says that Wilmington-based Mitchell Associates will be working on the design.

"We are so excited about their plans to renovate. They are going to reinvest into the business," Richards says.

"We're going to make the restaurant very beautiful," says Jessie Okubo, adding that most of the same staff from Utage will remain at Takumi.

While the food at Utage has often received kudos, detractors haven't been nearly so kind about the interior.

According to the 2008 Zagat Philadelphia Restaurants Survey, the burgundy "bible" guidebook that also includes some New Castle County restaurants, customers have said Utage's setting was "bland enough to make the supermarket more fun."

Richards says the renovations at Takumi are just some of the current updates taking place at Independence Mall, which was built by her father. The Blue Ballroom, a new dance studio, was recently renovated, and plans are under way for a Malaysian restaurant and possibly an Italian wine bar.

Richards says the shrubs and signage at the shopping center are all new, and cobblestones were imported from Europe.

"I want this to become a boutique mall," she says.

Chihiro Oka, whose father Yuichiro opened Utage restaurant, Delaware's first sushi bar in 1986, said he had hoped to revamp and renovate Utage but couldn't come to an agreement on the lease.

Chihiro Oka said he hopes to find a new location for Utage in the next six months to a year.

IN OTHER NEWS:


Mile High Steak and Seafood is a new restaurant in the Cross Roads Shopping Center, just beyond the intersection of Baltimore Pike and U.S. 202 in Glen Mills, Pa.


Executive chef Don Sanders has designed menus at the restaurant (with a 100-seat dining and bar area) to reflect the season. He also has a selection of USDA prime and certified Black Angus steaks and seafood.

Sanders, of Wilmington, is a graduate of the Le Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, Md. He has most recently worked at the Kennett Square (Pa.) Golf and Country Club and Philadelphia's Pyramid Club. Executive sous chef Monte Davis of Havertown, Pa., has more than 20 years' experience in the culinary arts, most recently at the Philadelphia Country Club.

Visit www.milehigh steakandseafood.com or call (610) 361-0855 for reservations. Dinner is served from 5-10 p.m., Monday through Saturday.

Caution: Grossness ahead

We asked readers to share tales of what they ate on their summer vacation.
Steve Hopkins of Bear did one better. He told us - and showed us - what he slurped on his summer vacation:
"I drank snake wine on the Li River in China. It is their specialty drink."
Wow. Just wow. And I think I may throw up. Here are Steve's photo proofs of his, uh, braveness. (Does snake wine put hair on your chest??)



Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Now at the door: Cheese steaks


OK, so it's not a novelty when a place delivers cheese steaks. But Domino's Pizza is claiming they are the first national chain to do so.

Wait a second, you say? Domino's has cheese steaks now? Yes, they do, as a part of its new Baked Sandwiches line that also features chicken sandwiches, including chicken Parmesan, and Italian subs.

There's also the Philly Cheese Steak. Yes, I know, so many places insist on listing cheese steaks as "Philly Cheese Steak" on the menu. But, no big deal. At Domino's, their cheese steaks come with onions, green peppers, mushrooms, and use both American and provolone cheese.

I've tried this steak twice, once with only provolone cheese (as seen above) and one with only American cheese. The first steak was much better, and was delivered a little warmer than the second one. The toasted bread makes this steak one to recommend, and the fact that it's a manageable steak. That means it doesn't fall apart. This steak isn't chopped, which is my preference. While I'm all for value, I'm not one who likes way too much chopped steak piled into a roll, only to have it be a mess to eat.

The sandwiches cost $4.99. Adding a snack-sized bag of chips and a 20-ounce drink makes it $6.99. All Domino's outlets may not be carrying these sandwiches yet, so make sure before you order. Check out http://www.dominos.com/ to find locations near you.