Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Casapulla's with cheese
See Giada sign
Monday, September 29, 2008
Mario, Marcella and Italian recipes
I just got off the phone with Mario Batali.
I love Mario and his rapid-fire way of speaking. I've interviewed him several times over the last few years and he is just as he is on TV - very blunt, very smart, very, very funny. (The photo to the right was taken by News Journal photographer Fred Comegys outside of Mario's Otto restaurant in New York.)
We talked about Italian food (naturally), the upcoming season of "Top Chef", (he won't be a judge) Dover Downs ("home of the Moooonnnnster Mile"), Iron Chef (he'll be back, but took off some time to open a restaurant), his recent food jaunt to Washington, D.C., (He loves Jose Andres Minibar) and Mario's new series "Spain....on the Road Again."
Check out this delightful new PBS series. It airs at 2:30 p.m. on Saturdays.
My story comes out Wednesday.
Over the weekend, I spent time in the kitchen with Marcella Hazan. Well, actually cooking several Marcella Hazan recipes to gear up for an Oct. 7 talk with her at 7:30 p.m. at the Free Library in Philadelphia.
Had the whole gang over on Saturday- to celebrate the Phillies NL East win, yahoo! - and here are two winners from "Marcella Cucina" (HarperCollins, 1997):
Involtini stuffed with tomato, capers, anchovies, and Parmesan
For this earthy, savory, fragrant dish, you can substitute the veal scaloppine with turkey scaloppine, which is readily available in most supermarkets. Adapted from Marcella Hazan's "Marcella Cucina" (Harper Collins, 1997.)
2 or 3 fresh, ripe, firm plum tomatoes
2 medium garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons capers
2 or 3 flat anchovy fillets
1/4 cup chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley
1 pound veal scaloppine (or turkey scaloppine)
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon butter
Flour, spread on a plate
Salt
Black pepper, ground fresh
1/3 cup dry white wine
Sturdy round wooden toothpicks
Peel the tomatoes raw using a vegetable peeler with a swiveling blade. Cut them lengthwise in half and scoop out the seeds without squeezing them. Cut them lengthwise into wedges 1/4-inch wide. Chop the garlic, capers, and anchoives together to a very fine consistency, reducing the anchovies to a pulp. Add the parsley and chop it briefly together with the other ingredients. Lay the veal (or turkey) slices flat on a work surface, and coat them with the caper and anchovy mixture, distributing it thinly and uniformly. Sprinkle about 1/2 teaspoon Parmesan on top of each scallop and over it place one or two wedges of tomato. Roll up the scallop tightly and fasten with a toothpick or two. Choose a skillet where all the scaloppine can subsequently fit in one uncrowded layer, without overlaps. Put in the oil and butter and turn on the heat to high. When the butter foam begins to subside, turn the scallops in the flour and slip them into the pan. Brown them on all sides, adding salt and pepper; then transfer them to a plate. Add the wine to the pan, and any juices that may have run onto the plate with the veal. White the wine bubbles, scrape loose the browning residues from the bottom of the pan. When the wine has cooked down, forming a little dense sauce, return the scallops to the pan. Turn them for just a few seconds in the sauce, then transfer the entire contents of the pan to a warm platter and serve at once. Makes 4 servings.
AHEAD-OF-TIME-NOTE: You can cook the scallops an hour or two in advance. Leave the pan as it is. When reheating, before putting in the wine, warm up the pan with about 1 tablespoon of water, loosening the browning residues. When the water has evaporated, add the wine and proceed as described in the recipe.
Baked cauliflower Tuscan-style
2 to 2 1/2 pounds cauliflower
2 tablespoons butter plus butter for smearing the baking dish
Bechamel sauce made with 1 tablespoon butter, 1 1/2 tablespoons flour and 1 cup whole milk
2 extra-large eggs
1/4 pound boiled, unsmoked ham, cut into narrow strips (optional)
Salt
Black pepper ground fresh
1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg
2/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons freshly ground Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Trim away most of the cauliflower's outer leaves and cut off a thin slice from the butt end. Wash the cauliflower in cold water. Bring to a boil enough water to amply cover it and drop in the cauliflower. (You can cut it half to fit more easily in the pot.) Cook about 20 minutes. Drain when it feels tender but firm when prodded with a fork. When the cauliflower is cool enough to handle, cut into small pieces, the root end into smaller pieces than the rest. Choose a skillet that can subsequently accommodate the cauliflower pieces in a single layer without overlapping, put in 2 tablespoons of butter, and turn on the heat to medium high. When the butter foam begins to subside, add the cauliflower pieces, turning them over for about 1 minute to coat them well. Transfer the cauliflower to a bowl and let it cool completely. Turn the oven to 400 degrees. To make the bechamel: Put 1 cup of milk in a saucepan, turning on the heat to medium low. Cook until the milk is just short of boiling, reaching the point when it begins to form a ring of small, pearly bubbles. While heating the milk, put 1 tablespoon of butter in a medium saucepan, turning on the heat under it to low. When the butter has melted completely, stir in the 1 1/2 tablespoons flour, using a wooden spoon. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes. Do not allow the flour to become colored. Remove from the heat. Add the hot milk from the other pan, 2 tablespoons at a time, to the flour-and-butter mixture. Stir continuously. As soon as the first 2 tablespoons of milk have been incorporated into the mixture, add 2 more, continuing to stir. Repeat the process until you have put in 1/2 cup of milk. Then, add the remaining milk all at once, stirring steadily. Place the plan over low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is as dense as thick cream. If you find any lumps forming, dissolve them by beating the sauce rapidly with a whisk. Set aside.Break the eggs into a dish and beat them lightly with a fork. Put all but 3 or 4 tablespoons of bechamel into the bowl with the cold cauliflower. Add the beaten eggs, the optional strips of ham, salt, liberal grindings of black pepper, grated nutmeg and 2/3 cup grated Parmesan. Turn over all ingredients thoroughly with a spoon. Thinly smear the inside of an 7-by-11-inch baking dish with butter. Empty into it the contents of the bowl with cauliflower pieces, leveling them off with a spatula. Spread the remaining 3 or 4 tablespoons of bechamel over the top, and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of grated Parmesan. Bake in the upper middle level of the preheated oven until a light golden crust forms on top, about 30 minutes. Let it settle for several minutes after removing it from the oven. Makes 4 servings.
AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE: You can prepare the dish a few hours in advance up to the time it is ready for baking. Cover with plastic wrap and, if refrigerated, bring to room temperature before putting it in the oven.
Friday, September 26, 2008
The funny doesn't end when your life does...
Many, many, many moons ago, I began my journalism career writing obituaries.
(Or, as my friend Katie used to call them: "Short stories about life and death." )
It was great training. Believe me, you never want to get anyone's name, occupation or affliation wrong in an obit. Upsetting already grieving people is no way to start your day (actually evening).
While few people begin a career in journalism on the "dead desk" anymore, I still appreciate a well-written obituary.
Here's one that recently appeared in the Dallas Morning News - and, yes, it is real - that gave me a good chuckle this morning. (Thanks Katie!)
Merritt, Edward "Bruce."
Born April 3, 1951 in North Carolina . He was one of eight children. His older sisters regularly beat him up, put him in dresses, and then forced him to walk to the drugstore to buy their Kotex and cigarettes. After graduation from high school he went on to lead a life of luxury in the United States Air Force. After escaping from the government, he spent most of his life as a mechanic, husband, and father. Bruce Merritt never met a stranger, and in many ways was stranger than most. He is survived by one daughter, two grandchildren, two ex-wives, unpaid taxes, and many loyal loving friends. Services will be held on Tuesday, September 23rd at 2:00pm. Eastgate LBJ @ Northwest Highway 972-270-6116.
New restaurants: UPDATES
Here are his picks.
And a slew of upstate newcomers includes a Newark Spanish tapas restaurant (photo above is Ole Tapas Tapas Lounge & Restaurant in Newark), a Vietnamese soup joint in Bear, Malaysian cuisine in Brandywine Hundred and a Glen Mills, Pa., steak/seafood house.
It will be housed in a building, now under construction, closest to the former Kahunaville nightclub, Grubb said.
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Why ask why?
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
And below, Aughtum Slavin, Rachel Payne and Rebecca McLain of Delcastle High School prepare chilled watermelon soup with grilled cantaloupe and corn fritters with help from Chef Jim Berman and Filasky Produce.
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Fun food pixs
Taste test at Troy
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Parc and Buddakan restaurants
Friday, September 19, 2008
More Reader Mail (UPDATE)
Are there any restaurants nearby (I live in Newark, DE) that serve good German food? I can't find any that serve a good Sauerbraten and spaetzel. (Please don't direct me to the Oktoberfest coming up at the Sagerbund).
If there are no nearby, do you have any nearby suggestions in NJ, MD or PA?
Thanks
Bob Biros
Newark, DE
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Reader Mail
QUESTION: Dear Ms. Talorico: As a transplanted Washingtonian/New Yorker (missing the food of those two cities), I read your column with great interest. Last night, my husband and I ate at the Korean Barbeque and Sushi Bar at Liberty Plaza in Newark, where we have been many times. Since I haven't seen anything in the paper recently, I just wanted to let you know-the food is really fabulous there. The dumplings are the best I have had in this area, and the stir-fried pork with tofu is delicate and spicy. Perhaps you know this already! Best, Jessica W. Graae
QUESTION: I visited the new restaurant today called Hot Plate not knowing what to expect, thinking it would be like the old Denny's. What a surprise. The food was great, service was polite, and the managers were ever present.There somethimg strange going on here - the employees love their jobs, the food was good, and the atmosphere was relaxing and family oriented, and the parking was plentiful. What a wonderful suprise! I suggest that you try it, and I'll guarantee that you'll like Hot Plate.
I won't drink to that....
No meat, no booze?
A 113-year-old, recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest living male last year, eats mostly vegetables and believes the key to longevity is not drinking alcohol.
I'm going to pretend I didn't read that.
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Economy in toilet? Eat, drink and be happy
New research shows market sales for chocolate, cigarettes and alcohol - known as "sin stocks" - perform well during times of economic recession.
Mogelonsky points out that most Americans can still afford chocolate, cigarettes and alcohol, no matter how much their finances have been cut
Lunch for eight with Kate
Travel adventures
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Dogs in Dover
Their pizza dog comes with pizza sauce, mozzarella cheese and pepperoni. Other interesting items that others might like (not me of course) are The Baxter, a hot dog with mashed potatoes, chili and shredded cheddar cheese. On my visit last week, I just got a normal dog with mustard and some fries, served in the box you see above. They have bratwurst, Italian sausage, burgers and a few sub choices, too.
You can find the Dover Dog Grille at 1156 S. Bay Road, not far from the entrance to the Dover Air Force Base. The place can be a little tricky to find if you are coming from the north. The best bet is to take your highway of choice into Dover and get on Route 10 East. When it dead ends into Bay Road at the Air Force base, take a left and D.D.G. is about a quarter-mile ahead on the left. Call (302) 734-9282 or go to http://www.doverdoggrille.com/ to learn more.
Lastly, where do people stand on high fructose corn syrup and its use in sodas and other drinks? They even sneak it into Snapple! So much for being made from the best stuff on Earth. One soda that does not use corn syrup is Deerfield Trading Company Gourmet Soda, found at Happy Harry's/Walgreens locations. Now, taking out the much-maligned sweetener isn't going to save you calories. But it does make for a better tasting soda. I've seen Jones Pure Cane Soda out there, but haven't tried it yet. Any good? This, of course, is knowing that soda is not the best part of daily diet. But us non-coffee drinkers need something, right?
Update: Forgot to pass along some wing sauce feedback from a reader, who said that Dreamers' Cafe at 1312 Philadelphia Pike offers eight levels, from Lullaby to You Must Be Crazy. This person was crazy enough to order 50 of the Crazy-wings, and reported it took a couple days to finish the order. Has anyone else been Crazy enough to try these wings?
Monday, September 15, 2008
Shed some clothes at the Green Room
(My colleague Ryan Cormier recently pointed it out to me. Seriously. He doesn't spend all his time in Dewey Beach. Things you don't know about Ryan: He's a classy guy.)
Burger joint bites the dust
(I just tried calling the phone number and there's no answer, only "A Welcome to Verizon" message, instructing callers to redial the number. The Glen Mills location is no longer listed on the main website.)
Competition for burger dollars on this heavily traveled thoroughfare in recent years has been crazy especially with Five Guys, Jake's and Charcoal Pit - and hot dogs lovers now have the new Johnnie's Dog House as well as the much beloved Jimmie John's.
I thought the burgers were pretty decent at Cheeburger Cheeburger, but the staff was very, very young. Here's my review from last May for your reading pleasure:
It took only minutes to suddenly feel very, very old at Cheeburger, Cheeburger, a retro '50s-style hamburger joint off U.S. 202 that opened in February [2007].
Waiting for a young hostess to seat us recently, a dining pal made a joke about the eatery's name and a classic "Saturday Night Live" skit.
The teen greeter gave us a blank stare.
"Um, you know, the Greek guys in the Chicago diner? John Belushi, Dan Aykroyd and Bill Murray?"
Not even a glimmer of recognition.
(Oh boy. Bail now. If you have to explain the joke, it isn't funny.)
"Cheeburger, cheeburger? No Coke! Pepsi!" Ha, ha.
The silence was deafening.
Obviously born long after Belushi headed to that Great Big Diner in the Sky, the dewy-skinned child shook her head at the fossils standing before her.
"Oh," she finally said, with heart-breaking innocence. "I think my mother may told me something about that."
Ouch. We closed our yaps and felt sorry for the poor misguided youth of today.
The only Belushi they know is the schlub starring in that painfully unfunny sitcom, "According to Jim."
Slumping to the table, we nursed our wounds by overindulging in shakes, root beer floats, egg creams, French fries, onion rings and burgers. Our beloved Belushi, the true Belushi, John Belushi -- google him now, you crazy, mixed-up kids! -- would have been proud.
But, perhaps, we had stumbled on what just may be the double, secret plan of Cheeburger, Cheeburger, a Florida chain that's been around since 1986.
Make everyone feel like old fogies and they'll just eat, eat, eat?
Evil, yet deliciously brilliant. And judging by the number of customers who have had their photographs snapped after chowing down a pounder ($10.39), the chain's 20-ounce monster of a burger, this fiendishly clever scheme seems to be working quite nicely.
We scanned the happy faces of so many people who had pounded pounders -- holy moly! -- and wondered why a customer would willingly consume that much meat in one sitting. Were they drowning their sorrows after trying in vain to explain to the younger-than-springtime staff that there once was this contraption known as a rotary telephone?
Or, maybe, just maybe, it's simply that Cheeburger, Cheeburger's hand-formed, rough-edged, juicy patties are too hard to resist. A few bites into the three-quarter pound Delirious burger ($8.39) and we began to pray: Forgive us O Lord, our daily cholesterol sins. This is a burger that's difficult to stop eating.
Cheeburger, Cheeburger's decor is faux retro. Walls are princessy pink, tables and banquettes are aquamarine. Cut-outs of a hip-swiveling Elvis, a debonair Humphrey Bogart and a cutesy-cute Betty Boop decorate the walls along with other tchotchkes.
As almost everyone in Delaware knows, a real, honest-to-goodness 1950s setting can be found just down the road at the Charcoal Pit. But Cheeburger, Cheeburger, which spears its buns with toothpicks and olives, could easily usurp the Pit's King of Burgers throne.
Toppings include artichoke hearts, chopped garlic, guacamole, pineapple, sun-dried tomatoes and A1 Steak Sauce. You can go as weird and wild as you like.
At 5.5 ounces, the classic burger ($4.99) is a good choice for smaller appetites, though the patty tends to get lost in the roll and among the thick-sliced onions and tomatoes. I'd probably go for the "semi-serious," ($5.89) a 7-ounce patty. Kids meals ($4.99) are made-in-the-shade cool: The burgers and fries arrive at the table in either a paper '64 Mustang or a '57 Chevy.
Non-meat eaters can get the grilled portobello mushroom melt ($7.39), a hefty sandwich served with sautéed onions and Swiss cheese on rye bread. The menu also has "invent your own salads" and grilled chicken breast sandwiches.
But this is a burger joint. Why bother with anything else?
You can't have a burger without fries. Definitely order the "frings" basket ($4.89), a combination of both French fries and onion rings.
The eatery shines with its shakes and malts ($2.99 for a half, $4.39 for a regular) -- there are 72 flavors to chose from, including chocolate banana, Snickers cheesecake and caramel apple. A frosty and very good root beer float ($3.99) arrives in a stainless steel tin.
Maybe we weren't old enough to truly appreciate the merits of a vanilla egg cream ($2.09). To me, it tasted like a watered down vanilla soda.
But the drink that really got us excited was the Shake-A-Soda. Supposedly, our server would shake up the drink at our table. Now this daring act, I had to see. Shaking a soda usually results in a messy, volcanic explosion.
The watermelon soda ($2.09) came to the table in a plastic martini-style shaker and was then -- placed on the table. No explosion, no eruption. Talk about anti-climactic.
"Hold your finger on the lid when you pour. Sometimes, they come off and splash all over the table," our teen server said.
What would Belushi say?
We know, even if she didn't: "No Coke. Pepsi."
Lime beer, anyone? Anyone?
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Phils phood (UPDATE)
Woo-hoo. The sun is shining and it's game-on.
Friday, September 12, 2008
Happy Friday (UPDATE)
- USA Today's Jerry Shiver interviews Food Network stars about farmers market finds.
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Shoo, shoo - boo boo
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
Marcella: Update
Wings: Who has the hottest?
As usual, I had the wings made in medium sauce, but ordered an extra with a cup of their hot sauce on the side. I do this because I like dipping the mozzarella sticks in buffalo sauce, too. It's a good combo, but the hot sauce there a BWW is pretty hot, and it's two levels from the top. Above hot are "Wild" and "Blazin'."
Whew. Who gets Blazin'? Anyone? If you do, how do you survive?
And who has the hottest wing sauce out there? I don't mean from stores, but among restaurant and takeout places. The hot at BWW had me sweating pretty well. I can't imagine people enjoying hotter sauces, but maybe this needs investigating. Any suggestions?
As far as mozzarella cheese with buffalo sauce, anyone else do this? I'll also accept people who support putting mustard on french fries.
Monday, September 8, 2008
New places
The Oka family, owners of Utage Authentic Japanese Cuisine, closed the 22-year-old eatery in Independence Mall shopping center off U.S. 202 in Brandywine Hundred on Aug. 30.
But Hideyuki Okubo, who has worked as a sushi chef at Utage for more than 10 years, says he and his wife Jessie Okubo and Jessie's sister plan to open Takumi, another Japanese eatery, at the same site.
The chef says he expects to begin slicing sashimi again there by Sept. 15. (Call 658-8887 or 658-8881 for more information.)
Hideyuki Okubo, a graduate of the Tsuji Culinary Institute in Osaka, Japan, has worked as a chef in five-star hotels in Tokyo and Kobe.
Mile High Steak and Seafood is a new restaurant in the Cross Roads Shopping Center, just beyond the intersection of Baltimore Pike and U.S. 202 in Glen Mills, Pa.
Executive chef Don Sanders has designed menus at the restaurant (with a 100-seat dining and bar area) to reflect the season. He also has a selection of USDA prime and certified Black Angus steaks and seafood.
Caution: Grossness ahead
Steve Hopkins of Bear did one better. He told us - and showed us - what he slurped on his summer vacation:
"I drank snake wine on the Li River in China. It is their specialty drink."
Wow. Just wow. And I think I may throw up. Here are Steve's photo proofs of his, uh, braveness. (Does snake wine put hair on your chest??)