Thursday, April 30, 2009

City Restaurant Week: Harry's Seafood Grill

EDITOR'S NOTE: Hey Second Helpers, this is our last City Restaurant Week review. To read reviews of all 10 participating eateries, click on the City Restaurant Week label at the bottom of this post.

By GARY SOULSMAN

It's possible to enjoy being born with a tongue.

That's how I felt after leaving Harry's Seafood Grill, after lunch at the riverfront restaurant.

I recommend going there to care for your taste buds, too, especially if they've been smacked around during Restaurant Week.

My mouth had been so man-handled by strange food concoctions it was feeling sheepish when I dragged it into a banquette under Harry's big starfish ceiling. As I waited for my friend to arrive, I noted a condo looming in the distance. And I told myself this was a new day.

The menu gave me reason for hope - two-course specials were part of the stylishly printed menu, not a casual insert. And I saw that Harry's wanted me to sense I was getting a deal - the prices added to more than $15 (what I would pay) when ordered individually.

I liked the psychology of this, just as I liked the muted red wall next to me and the silvery wall fish arranged in an abstract design.

As my friend Jerry settled in, we confessed to our waitress that we couldn't decide what we wanted and we intended to annoy her with questions. She was amenable, though my companion felt that, if she were able to speak about the dishes with greater precision, the ordering could have gone more smoothly.

"Someone with experience who really knows a menu can do that," he said. I thought he had a point. And while I was pleased with the warm crusty bread that arrived to staunch our hunger, he was less delighted.

He would have liked it better had the bread been crisper and less, well, all-American spongy. I smiled, studying the butter, arranged on what looked to be a clear picture frame.For me, nothing was wrong - the butter was fresh! - and I felt even more contented when the appetizers were set down.

Jerry had ordered spicy Bahamian conch chowder and we both allowed as how conch could be rubbery, if overcooked. But tomatoes and spice and carrots and conch combined so as to satisfy us, as the chowder heated the back of the throat. I ordered three small asparagus, wrapped in smoked salmon, and they were cooked perfectly and served with a zesty caper relish. A mound of accompanying arugula came with dressing that was buttermilk thick and buttermilk bland. And so what? It looked great and I wolfed it down.

So we moved our elevated hopes to the next course. Jerry ordered thin grilled slabs of salmon and sourdough bread, all tucked atop even thinner slices of Canadian bacon or prosciutto.

We couldn't decide. "I've never had salmon with salty meat before and I like that a lot," Jerry said. "Salmon can be awfully bland at times."

I dug into fried cod served on butter lettuce and micro greens. The fish that has fed the world fed me. It was nicely crisped and bathed with pickled lemon dressing and lightly heated mayonnaise or aioli, if you prefer.

Could all this happiness really be happening?

Not willing to settle for two well-prepared courses, we moved to dessert and Harry's signature Italian ice cream. A big white bowl of chocolate truffle macadamia gelato was worth every calorie. And isn't that how we count in the mirror?

So I say...it's Restaurant Week at Harry's Seafood Grill: What's there to complain about?

City Restaurant Week: Mikimotos


By PATRICIA TALORICO

I couldn't really tell how the City Restaurant Week menu was going over with the Wednesday lunch crowd at Mikimotos Asian Grill & Sushi Bar.

I suspect that most people come to Mikis for the fresh fish and interesting Pan-Asian dishes - and, frankly, they don't really care about a bargain meal.

It's simply a fun place to eat. The food is consistent, the dining room modern, the service very good, and, during my visits over the years, I have seldom found the dining room empty.

Yesterday was no different. (And I'm very glad we made a reservation.)

The City Restaurant Week menu ($15 for two-courses) is pretty straight-forward: You get a choice of a beef lettuce wrap consisting of shaved, lightly seared filet mignon, crispy shallot and nuoc cham dipping sauce or a sea scallop dumpling over shredded carrot and radish in truffle soy dipping sauce or shrimp summer rolls with vermicelli, spring vegetables, lettuce and peanut and key lime dipping sauces.

The second course: Create Your Own Maki Platter.

Whoa. Back up a minute. Make your own maki - as in play sushi chef for the day? Does that mean getting behind the sushi bar and wrestling with sharp knives, raw fish, nori strips, rice, wasabi and sesame seeds?
(Hey, I'm off the clock! Don't put me to work. I'm going out to lunch so someone else makes my meal.)

Relax. This isn't a roll-your-own operation. A server will hand you a piece of paper and you circle a selection of fillings and fish which include several offerings such as salmon, tuna, cooked shrimp, wasabi mayonnaise, vegetables, avocados, etc. The sushi chefs will then take the selections and create a platter. Now, that's pretty cool.

A crab "salad", tossed in a mayonnaise based dressing, comes on the side. I took a couple of lackluster bites, but it didn't really pique my interest. I did enjoy the first course beef lettuce wraps - I'm pretty sure there were four on a plate - and I'll never turn down nuoc cham, the Vietnamese dipping sauce that's made with salty (and some say stinky) fish sauce.

So how does the restaurant week lunch special compare with the regular menu offerings?

Well, my pal looked at the Restaurant Week specials and decided she didn't feel like eating any sushi. She opened the regular menu and ordered the shrimp miso soup ($5) and the lettuce cup chicken ($11).

Her lunch was one buck more than my $15 City Restaurant Week meal.

Just an FYI: We each got a drink - Diet Coke ($2) and iced tea ($2). Refills are free. Total bill: $35, not including tip.

Me and three degrees of Martha


I probably should have posted earlier, but I was a guest this morning on"Morning Living", a Sirius Satellite radio program on Martha Stewart Living Radio hosted by Kim Fernandez and Betsy Karetnick.


(Nope, no Martha. And I didn't get a chance to ask if Ms. Stewart would be attending Point-to-Point this year - as she was a few years ago in this photo taken with George "Frolic" Weymouth.)

During a segment called "The Dish" we chatted about food and dining in Delaware, mostly in Wilmington.

I was actually getting ready to write a blog post reminder when the show called - about 15 minutes earlier than expected - so sorry no heads-up.

It was a pretty free-wheeling conversation.

We chatted about Delaware subs - Capriotti's and Casapulla's; Little Italy red-gravy places (including Attilio's and Madeline's); Woodside Farms Creamery; the Hotel du Pont's Green Room and pastry chef Michele Mitchell's luscious desserts; City Restaurant Week; Moro restaurant; Domaine Hudson and their outstanding wine selections; burgers, milk shakes and sundaes at the [original] Charcoal Pit; the chicken barbecue stands in Sussex County; slippery dumplings and chicken; Janssen's market; and breakfast at the Kozy Korner, among other things.

It was a swift 10 minutes or so and there was so much more I could have - and wish I - said. (It's very eye-opening to have the tables turned and be the one answering the questions instead of being the interviewer.)

IN OTHER NEWS:

Our reviews of City Restaurant Week continue.

Coming soon: Mikimotos and Harry's Seafood Grill.

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

City Restaurant Week: Cafe Mezzanotte

EDITOR'S NOTE: City Restaurant Week continues through Saturday. Keep reading Second Helpings for more reviews. Staffers will be grabbing tables at all participating eateries.

By PETER BOTHUM

The bread that's offered at a restaurant is kind of like a handshake.

On one hand, it's simply a gesture and a free, non-binding formality. Then again, it does provide a first impression of what's to come.

So what happened before an otherwise tasty two-course meal at Cafe Mezzanotte (1007 S. Orange St.) was kind of a bad moon rising. If its offering of bread was indeed a handshake, the hand awkwardly missed its target and fumbled clumsily into the person's rib cage.

When my dining partner and I sat down, no bread was to be had. Drinks were ordered and delivered, a specific request was made, and still no bread. Meanwhile, it seemed like all the other diners in the restaurant were soaking slices in generous amounts of oil and enjoying every tasty morsel in their mouths - I think I could hear an adult film soundtrack playing in the background.

The bread finally arrived, and, of course, it really wasn't that good. But Mezzanotte rebounded with the first course, which had us thinking that maybe that early harbinger was nothing. Cheese and tomatoes paired up in a circle around the greens and carrots and drizzled oil in the Italian Mozzarella Salad. The Pasta e Fagioli soup was surprising in its depth of bean-and-tomato-led flavor.

But then the Omen of the Bread came to fruition. Our waiter offered many apologies and made several "it's up next" visits, but it took a good solid 45 minutes for our lunch to come out (they did make up for the faux pas with complimentary desserts). Probably just a mix-up in the kitchen, but if Mezzanotte is going to score the lunch breaks of downtown workers, that's not going to cut it.

If, however, owner/chef Sergio Pellegrino can build his lunches quickly, they will come for the masterful blends of flavors. The Polpettoni pulled together hearty meats (ground chicken, ham, salami) and generous amounts of mozzarella.

Meanwhile, every bite of the gourmet pizza had something different to offer, depending on what combination of mozzarella, red peppers, eggplant, artichoke hearts and bacon bits (the real stuff!) your mouth found. And, in all honesty, this pizza beat the life out of the $15 mini-pizzas at Pizza By Elizabeths. Yeah, I said it.

One critique here: On one of the slices, the crust at the end was slightly crispier, and if the whole pizza was made that way it would have been insanely good.

City Restaurant Week: C.W. Harborside

EDITOR'S NOTE: City Restaurant Week continues through Saturday. Keep reading Second Helpings for more reviews. Staffers will be grabbing tables at all participating eateries.

Coming soon: Cafe Mezzanotte and Harry's Seafood Grill.

By BETSY PRICE

If bland food and odd flavor combinations are your bag, rush on down to C.W. Harborside for its City Restaurant Week specials.

There's the odd-tasting crab and corn chowder. And the overcooked pan-seared Atlantic salmon with a honey and dried currant glaze that fights it out with the gloppy lemon-flavored risotto on the side.

A much anticipated Pureland Premium Black Angus filet panini with grilled portobello mushrooms, onions and sharp provolone was sizeable, but not flavorful. And we generally expect sauteed spinach to not be primarily sauteed yellow squash with a few leaves of spinach thrown in. (But we gotta say, the squash was the best thing we had.)

I can't remember ever being this disappointed in a restaurant. I had been looking forward to going to C.W. Harborside, a Wilmington Riverfront eatery I've never been to, but also never heard anything bad about.

We dined late, arriving at 1 p.m., and perhaps the lateness of the hour contributed to our dismal dining. Did we just get leftovers while attention had already turned to dinner?

We were one of only three tables in the restaurant for the second half of the meal.

At least we had a cheerful, personable server in Tim.

City Restaurant Week: Deep Blue

By PATRICIA TALORICO

I've had up and down dining moments at Deep Blue over the years, but last night's meal had many memorable highlights.

The full dining room had an upbeat, lively vibe - on a Tuesday night! - which manager David Talmo (who spotted me as soon as we were seated) said is not unusual since the restaurant is popular with business travelers staying downtown.

"But you can definitely tell it's Restaurant Week," he said. (A few tables around us, however, seemed to be ordering off the regular menu.)

City Restaurant Week is a time for restaurants to shine - they're often welcoming back customers who may not have grabbed a seat in the establishment in some time, as well as putting on a show for newcomers.

It surprises me when eateries don't step up to the plate with awesome, well-crafted food. Keep customers happy and they'll be back for more. (And they'll tell their friends.)

Deep Blue's menu doesn't disappoint. I took along two pals who hadn't been to the 11th Street eatery in some time and they were excited by the offerings on the three-course, $35 fixed price meals. There are four choices for the first and second courses and three dessert selections.

Just so you know: There's no substitutions on the Restaurant Week menu. And, for some reason, we were told we had to order the dessert at the same time as the appetizers and entrees.

Our favorite first courses: crispy, fried oysters with tomato pickle relish and Old Bay aioli and the chicken Farinette, a sophisticated version of chicken croquettes with sweet Gorgonzola, schmears of spicy Buffalo sauce and minced celery.

The romaine and radicchio salad with roasted scallions and crushed pistachios was dry and didn't seem like it was tossed with enough Gorgonzola dressing. (I kept sneaking more bites of oysters and chicken.)

Since Deep Blue is known for its seafood - that's where we kept our allegiance. The pan-seared Delaware Rockfish with roasted fingerling potatoes, braised artichokes, saffron aioli had a beautifully seared skin and moist interior. Better still was the crab cake filled with sweet lump meat and served over a bed of roasted asparagus, crimini mushrooms and cherry tomatoes.

The flavor of the grilled salmon was good as was the mustard spaetzle, but the fish tasted slightly overcooked - and may have been sitting under a heat lamp for a spell. The red wine Portobello sauce had mostly dried on the plate when it arrived at the table.

While we dipped spoons into the Chocolate Grand Marnier Pot au Creme and pretty much ignored the ho-hum fresh berries served with whipped cream, the Guinness Stout gelato was the hands-down favorite dessert of the table. I initially ordered it out of journalistic curiosity, but was quickly seduced by its light chocolate and malty flavors and creamy texture.

I'll be back for more crab cakes and gelato - and isn't that what City Restaurant Week is all about?

City Restaurant Week: Ameritage

EDITOR'S NOTE: City Restaurant Week continues through Saturday. Keep reading Second Helpings for more reviews. Staffers will be grabbing tables at all participating eateries.
Coming soon: Deep Blue, Mikimotos and Cafe Mezzanotte.

By ERIC RUTH

At a time of year when the two-faced spring climate conspires to create a transition phase in our appetites, a place like Ameritage Restaurant & Lounge seems to understand our dilemma.

Fresh, light, bright Latin-esque tastes fill the menu of this cooly hip center-city refuge, but a few options also heed our need to stoke the fires with more substantive food.

Take the earthy (and somewhat underseasoned) black bean soup, unmistakably hand-crafted and brightened by accents of a pork pate "crouton." Or consider the excellent skirt-steak wrap, given just enough beany/chewy starchiness and snappy herbal presence to accent the beautifully charred beef.

Perhaps partly because of the need to keep costs under control, the Restaurant Week menu here is infested with freshly dressed lettuces and crunchy raw veggies, even in the main dishes -- an inclination that suits the time of year (and our waistlines), but may be inclined to result in vegetative overload, depending on your choice.

Arugula and kohlrabi salad with cilantro vinaigrette would satisfy most folks without such a massive foundation of mashed avaocado, and there's no need to throw a pile of lettuce next to the excellent smoked chicken sandwich with bacon and apple -- especially when we've probably already had our first-course salad.

The solution is easy -- ignore any excessive green-ness, and enjoy how Ameritage shows a remarkable hand at balancing tart-light flavors. A sweet-snappy-light character lifts several dishes.

In the case of the smoked chicken sandwich, that fresh character is countered well by a nicely toothy grilled roll -- though that same roll threatened to overwhelm the somewhat dry fried-shrimp Po-Boy sandwich, which cried out for more of the creamy sexiness its yellow-pepper aioli promised.

Bottom-line sentiments pronounced Ameritage's efforts highly worthy of exploration, though next time, we'll take another course.

We'll definitely sit upstairs -- where everybody seems to gravitate. We'll also hope for maybe a bit more sass and fire. And we'll definitely promise ourselves to try this under-appreciated downtown gem more often.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

City Restaurant Week: Orillas

EDITOR'S NOTE: City Restaurant Week is off and running. Keep reading Second Helpings this week. Staffers will be grabbing tables at all participating eateries.

By LUCIA BLACKWELL

Can a meat-and-potatoes guy and a serial-grazer gal enjoy a meal together at a Spanish tapas bar?


They can if they're at Orillas (413 N. Market St.), where the City Restaurant Week menu offers a long list of choices.

Choose three small plates for the $35 dinner menu. Sharing is encouraged so it's a great chance to try new things - and it's easy to get a sneak preview by glancing at other diners' plates passing by in this little gem of a restaurant.

Part of the fun was the intimacy created by the small space and closely placed tables. It didn't feel crowded to us - it was more like being at a festive gathering. Spanish music, pictures of flamenco dancers and bull fighters on the walls, rustic candle sconces and lots of brickwork and dark wood added to the Mediterranean atmosphere. It was a pleasant escape on a hot evening.

The house sangria was crisp and cold with just a touch of sweetness - the perfect accompaniment to our tapas exploration. We dove right in and ordered all of our plates at once - then the kitchen sent them out one or two at a time so my dinner companion and I could share and focus our attention on each one. At some tables, diners chose to make one or two selections at a time, sometimes ordering a favorite a second time.

Fingerling potatoes with aioli and spicy tomato sauce give french fries a sophisticated spin. The aioli (think garlicky mayo) and tomato sauce (think light but sassy ketchup) decorating the plate were irresistible.


Empanadas de ropa veija (crisp little turnovers filled with braised beef and served with green salsa) were pockets of pure satisfaction. My fellow diner said, "This is what Hot Pockets want to be when they grow up!" (I've never had a Hot Pocket, so I'll take his word for it.)

With the meat and potatoes requirement satisfied, it was time to turn to other flavors. Artichokes sauteed with Serrano ham were a tasty, light break from bigger, bolder flavors on other plates, but I might choose another, more interesting, vegetable or salad option were I to visit again.


Chicken croquettes were deliciously crispy on the outside, light on the inside. Lamb chops were perfectly seared, tender and pink, and served with a slightly sweet lentil stew studded with bits of crispy smoked bacon.

One of the last dishes we tried was the corn and black bean chowder with manchego croutons and basil oil. This "chowder" - more of a velvety rich black bean soup with corn nestled under a little manchego cheese-topped crouton raft - was the unexpected smash-hit of the evening. The smoky chili heat was assertive, but not overpowering. My dinner pal did all but lick the bowl clean to get every last drop. Ole!

We succumbed to the temptation of dulce de leche banana tart and mango tres leches cake, though after our succession of little plates we were both surprisingly full.


The desserts were fine, but not worth the overindulgence. We wished there had been a lighter offering, perhaps fresh fruit or an icy sorbet. Maybe next time we'll try the flan.

Yes, next time. We're hooked on Orillas' tapas. We'll be back.


More City Restaurant Week reviews coming

The staff has its feedbag on and more City Restaurant Week reviews are coming.

Up to bat: Delaware Momslikeme.com editor Lucia Blackwell visits Orillas and Pulp Culture's Ryan Cormier gets all hoity-toity at the Hotel du Pont's Green Room.

Stay-tuned for more. And, by all means, add your own comments.

City Restaurant Week: Green Room


EDITOR'S NOTE: City Restaurant Week is off and running. Keep reading Second Helpings this week. Staffers will be grabbing tables at all participating eateries.

By RYAN CORMIER

For my first-ever dinner at Hotel du Pont's Green Room, I felt the same way I do as a Yankee Fan visiting Fenway Park: I'm in a place where I really don't belong.

No matter how many times Green Room folks or city officials downplay the Green Room's prices -- their dinner entrees average $31 a pop -- it's just not a place that I am drawn to.

I usually try not to drop that kind of cash for dinner. I avoid formal spaces as elegant as the Green Room dining area. And I tend to enjoy being around people my own age.

But since this is City Restaurant Week, my editors thought it would be interesting to send Mr. Pulp Culture to one of the the city's finest dining rooms just before I head down to Dewey Beach this summer -- a place where you're more likely to spill Bud Light on your shirt than Esperto Pinot Grigio.

Before heading into downtown Monday night for my 7 p.m. reservation, I decided to test the Green Room's dress code, which was relaxed last year to business casual -- jackets are no longer required for men.

I wore a button-down shirt and a crisp pair of jeans. (I added the word "crisp" to make it sound a little less white trash.) Walking in, I expected the same reaction the goober gets in that old Polaner All Fruit commercial when he yells across the table, "Would you please pass the jelly!?!" I expected elderly women to take one look at me in my casual dress and shriek before passing out in their seared foie gras.

Of course, that didn't happen. Instead, no one looked at all. Actually, I was the one looking. The dining room was half-full and I was the youngest one there. (By the time we left a little around 8:15, the room was filled and there were plenty of diners in their 30s.)

I was seated next to two nice older women (possibly half of the "Golden Girls" cast) celebrating a birthday. I heard one of the classy Greenville types say, "Happy birthday dah-ling," and I felt like I suddenly felt like I really should have a top hat and a monocle to fit in.

I kicked things off with a special "Green Martini" ($8) from the City Restaurant Week menu -- a very sweet lime concoction made with Belvedere vodka. I'd recommend finishing it before eating or having it after dinner -- the drink didn't exactly go with my steak.

My friend had a Yuengling Bock beer ($6), which was also on the special menu. The beer is a seasonal offering from Yuengling in celebration of their 180th anniversary. My friend, who is from originally Texas and considers Shiner Bock his favorite beer, had no complaints.

For my first of the three courses, I had Georgia sweet corn soup along with the complimentary warm and crusty rolls. The soup consisted of corn shoots, a truffle-corn reduction and a dollop of corn pudding in the center. It marked my first time ever consuming corn shoots, a truffle-corn reduction or a dollop of corn pudding. Still, it was excellent, seemingly stripping the flavor down to a pure corn essence. (I'm sure I broke some sort of haughty etiquette, but you're damn right I wiped the bowl with a piece of bread to get every last drop.)

My friend's arugula salad, complete with Pekin duck prosciutto, Manchego cheese (a sheep's milk cheese) and covered with an apple and pecan vinaigrette was also a hit. Both my bowl and his plate were wiped clean.

Then it was entree time. Did I feel guilty about eating my petite filet mignon while looking out the Green Room's grand windows overlooking Rodney Square and some of the city's homeless population standing there in the stifling heat?

The answer is yes.

But once I turned my full attention to my steak -- with a perfectly blackened outside and a medium rare red inside -- I was lost in my meal. The steak was topped with smoked toast and served atop cheese grits, surrounded by a regiment of grilled grapes with sea salt. (Note to self: warm grapes are never to be eaten ever again.)

My friend had the pan-roasted organic salmon surrounded by green beans (haricot verts for the cultured among us) and a sweet bread almond salad. An almond puree caramelized half lemon used for lemon juice on the fish was the only thing left on his plate.

Before heading out, I dove into a creamy flourless chocolate mousse cake and my friend tackled a generous raspberry Creme Brulee.

I must admit, it was probably the best dinner I've ever had in Wilmington. From top to bottom, it was flawless. Really good.

With two $35 charges for the City Restaurant Week dinner and our drinks, the bill was $84 before tip -- not bad for two people considering the quality of the food, the service and the surroundings.

Monday, April 27, 2009

City Restaurant Week: The Exchange

EDITOR'S NOTE: City Restaurant Week is off and running. Keep reading Second Helpings this week. Staffers will be grabbing tables at all participating eateries.

By BETSY PRICE

The Exchange seems to be running a B.Y.O.W. menu this week for City Restaurant Week: Bring your own wheelbarrow.

By the end of these hefty lunches, you're gonna need one so your friends can haul you out.

The Market Street restaurant offers three courses, and you can pick any two items on the menu for $15.

Starters include vichyssoise; Exchange salad of apples, raspberries, candied walnuts and blue cheese on field greens; or smoky peanut soup with shredded chicken and ancho cream.

Entrees are a hand-carved corned beef with pickled red cabbage, Swiss cheese and coarse mustard on rye, with a mountain o' hand-cut fries (our description; not theirs); duck leg confit with wilted frisee and crispy potatoes; and a cheddar and asparagus omelet with a mountain o' fries.

Diners get two choices for dessert: Signature Sorbet Trio or Chocolate Mousse infused with Grand Marnier.

One of us got the Exchange salad with the sandwich; the other got the smoky peanut soup and omelet, mostly because we couldn't bear the idea of all those duckies on crutches.

The soup and salad were excellent. The soup -- served in a big bowl -- was a thick puree tinged with a smoky, spicy flavor, apparently from the ancho chilies. It would have been a fine lunch all by itself.

The salad arrived in the same size bowl and seemed small at first glance, but proved to be much more substantial than it looked. It was a perfect starter with its light dressing.

Both of us have seen footballs smaller than the corned beef sandwich, which was dwarfed by the pile of fries. And the abundance wasn't just limited to our plates. Small children could have played hide and seek behind the plates around the restaurant.

The sandwich was fresh, tasty -- and seemed like it was made-to-order. The omelet was fine, but seem ordinary, especially in contrast to the fabulous soup.

We splurged and got the mousse, too. It was thick and creamy with just enough kick from the Grand Marnier to make it feel like a special end to the meal.

We arrived late for lunch Monday, and service was slower that we would have liked, but understandable, because by that late hour, the restaurant was down to one server.

That wouldn't stop us from recommending the fine food.

City Restaurant Week: Washington Street Ale House

EDITOR'S NOTE: City Restaurant Week is off and running and the first review has arrived. Keep reading Second Helpings this week. Staffers will be grabbing tables at all participating eateries.


By GARY SOULSMAN

With the big windows open to the spring day, there was a warm breeze and a pleasant lunch vibe in the Washington Street Ale House as the tables slowly filled for the start of City Restaurant Week.

Truth be told, folks around me didn't seem to care about the special $15 fixed-price menu. They already had an attachment to the long list of salads, burgers and appetizers on the everyday menu.

And by the time I was done with my Maryland crab chowder and sesame-seared sea scallops I wished I had ordered a standby, like the Build-Your-Own-Grilled-Chicken sandwich.

Rats, I thought: The people over there are so much happier than me and they stayed away from the special menu.

Of course, comparisons are the root of disappointment and I should know better. But I'm starting to get a complex about Restaurant Week, particularly after a big let down at the Hotel du Pont's Green Room last year.

It's gotten so I get edgy looking at descriptions of a chef's improvised creations. I'm like a guy who's had too many blind dates with bad dishes. Such a fellow tends to lose hope as he waits for beauty to appear from the kitchen.

This time the Maryland crab chowder was so stunning it could have been photographed for a risque magazine spread. It was deep red and thick enough to double as pasta sauce. But why mostly pieces of potato and so little crab? Has the Chesapeake been ravaged?

At least the soup was served hot - and it had fire. And, for a time, the thin flavor seemed to get better as I trudged on. But half-way on, I mournfully laid down my spoon, unable to convince myself that life was worth living with this sort of crabby companion.

Next up - sesame-seared sea scallops, flavored with a soy ginger sauce, and served over sauteed spinach and saffron rice. Arriving at the table on a stylish white triangle-shape plate, I was encouraged. But after the first few forkfuls I wondered: Do I like soy ginger sauce? Do I like seared sesame seeds?

I guess not. Perhaps, I should stop going out to eat and dine at home where I'm the only person responsible for disappointing me.

I take no joy in writing this, though I insist on saying positive things about the iced tea (strong and satisfying), the waitress (helpful, patient and attentive) and the hostess (kind and solicitous when my dining companion was unable to attend).

You might not know it from this review, but I like the Washington Street Ale House, even with two of the urinals shut down for repair. (The Listerine dispenser works.)

Overall, it's a friendly place to be and I am pleased when I order from the everyday menu. It's Restaurant Week that gives me pause.

City Restaurant Week: UPDATE

Hope your weekend was filled with wonderful food. I dusted off the grill and have my tongs - and cookbooks - ready to start barbecuing ribs and other fire-kissed delights.

(Right now, I'm paging through "Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes", "Raichlen on Ribs, Ribs, Outrageous Ribs", "America's Best BBQ" and "Big Bob Gibson's BBQ Book" by Chris Lilly.)

Did the first real al fresco dining of the season with good pals on Saturday - does life get any better than sitting on a deck with a few tasty beverages? I think not (Andy, the Moroccan chicken rocked!) - and I'm so happy for more July-in-April weather.
(Typical Delaware spring, no? That is - no spring at all. We just go from winter to summer....)

But no stay-at-home plans for me this week: City Restaurant Week kicks off today - and

Second Helpings will be out and about, sampling dishes and checking out the scene. Remember, it's two course $15 lunches and three-course $35 dinners, plus some extras. Click here for more details.

News Journal staffers - including professional paid fork Eric Ruth; the new Food DOGs Peter Bothum, Jeff Gentry and Andre Smith; Delaware MomsLikeMe.com editor Lucia Blackwell; Pulp Culture's own Ryan Cormier; ace features reporter Gary Soulsman; and features editor (and my boss) Betsy Price - will be unfolding napkins and sampling from menus from all participating restaurants.

*** UPDATE: The staff has already out been picking up forks. Check back here later today for the first of many reviews coming at you this week. We'll let you know what you're missing - and what you should skip.*********

Here's your chance to support the local economy.

In the immortal words of Mrs. Claus: "Eat, Papa, eat!"

Friday, April 24, 2009


Happy Friday! It's going to be a beautiful weekend - woo-hoo!

- Ace reporter Maureen Milford follows up the saga behind the shuttered Francine's Market in Hockessin. Read it here.

- I chatted yesterday with legendary comedian Pat Cooper before his Italian vodka bottle signing at Total Wine & More. He is hilarious, though I'm still not really sure what the heck he was talking about it. He told me he likes to make square-shaped meatballs to fit into square-shaped mouths. Or something like that.... (Thanks, Ciro. Mr. Cooper was very sweet.)

- I want more Moro. This Wilmington restaurant on North Scott Street is easily one of the best in the state. Read my Taste column, which focuses on the Thursday jazz nights.

No Reader Mail today. But please keep the email coming.

Got a dining/food question that you want answered? Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.
Every Friday (well, almost every Friday) is Reader Mail. You ask. We answer.

Thursday, April 23, 2009

"Real Housewives" inspire Del. restaurant design


An episode of the Bravo TV series "The Real Housewives of Orange County" -- c'mon now, you know you've watched this silly, yet completely addictive reality show franchise that features some of the most self-absorbed and deluded women on the planet -- was the inspiration for a wine bottle/water fountain/sculpture at the new Capers & Lemons restaurant.

While waiting for a table recently at the red hot Mill Creek area Italian eatery -- wow! when is there not a crowd at the restaurant?!? -- a friend was admiring the extremely cool wine bottle fountain in the foyer at the host stand.


We were told that the piece was inspired by a much larger sculpture installed in the contemporary California restaurant, Javier's.
Javier's Cantina & Grill - which recently moved from Laguna Beach to Newport Beach - is where the spray-tanned, Botoxed and surgery-enhanced Orange County ladies have liked to lunch, show off their designer duds and drink margaritas.

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

More on Francine's closing....


Seems there's more to the recent closing of Francine's market in Hockessin then business owner Francine Covelli's written explanation in a recent newsletter about refrigeration woes.

Stopped by this evening and an eviction notice is now posted on the front door of the former produce market off Del. 41. There's also a padlock around the door handles.

(Hmmm, just a few weeks ago a sign taped on the front door read closed for "spring break.")

Thomas Stone, who owns the building, says new tenants are coming soon. For years, the site had been Tomm's Produce Market. Stone closed it 2 1/2 years ago to become a minister. He leased the site to Covelli. Stone says he does not plan to reopen Tomm's.

More details to come.

Random food thoughts

Comedian Pat Cooper will be signing bottles of vodka on Thursday at Total Wines & More in Claymont. Read about here (second item.)

French bistro cooking - at home? Yes. Really. I made the smoked salmon tart (see recipe) and brought it to a party. It got raves from the crowd. Give it a try.

It's springtime and I can't get enough asparagus. Bought two big bunches yesterday at the Riverfront Market ($5) and used it last night in a shrimp and asparagus risotto flavored with lemon zest.

I saw a risotto recipe in the May issue of Gourmet, but I didn't cook the asparagus first which the recipe called for. (Dirtying another pan? Sorry, I'm too lazy) I just chopped up the asparagus and threw it into a pan along with the shrimp in the last few minutes of cooking. Turned out fine. Lemon zest is a very nice touch.

I think I'll just roast the other batch tonight.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Food DOGS: These flatbreads hit the spot

I hoped my first Food DOGs post would be about something I cooked on the grill, but Monday's rain dashed all hopes of that. The ribs will have to wait until another time.
So instead I offer up my opinion on something new from Wawa.

Yes, Wawa. I love Wawa. I even go the somewhat slower way to the Southern Outer Banks each year because there are Wawa stores all the way into Virginia on U.S. 301. Gas, food, bathroom and coffee. Little slices of heaven spread along the highway.

Anyway, back to the food ... I've really come to love the new toasted flatbreads. These folded, heated delights are tasty and inexpensive -- $3.99 right now.
There are three kinds:
  • Salsa Chicken -- Pepperjack cheese, fresh salsa and chunks of chicken (I like to get the side of sour cream with this one)
  • Cuban -- Ham, roasted pork, Swiss cheese, pickles and Dijonnaise.
  • Reuben -- Corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and thousand island dressing.
Each one is a folded flatbread with the ingredients put between the folded halves and the whole thing toasted.

I highly recommend both the salsa chicken and Cuban. I haven't tried the Reuben one yet but may have it for lunch today on my way to work. I'll let you know how it is if I do.

When time is short -- as it has often been for me lately -- and you need something on the go, it's nice to know there are options to the drive-thru window.

UPDATE: 4/23/09 3:43 p.m.

Here's the Wawa commercial for the toasted flatbread.



Jeffrey Gentry

Monday, April 20, 2009

Meals from the Masters wrap-up

Happy Monday. Hope you had a food-filled weekend.



Friday night's "Evening with the Masters" event at the Center for the Riverfront was a SCENE (so was the traffic, due to a prom and a Blue Rocks game). Organizers said the event eventually sold out - about 200 to 300 tickets were sold at the door. Total attendance, they say, 1,600. But some people said it seemed less crowded. This was my first year attending "Evening", so I'll have to take their word.

It had a completely different vibe than Sunday's brunch - more casual, the lines for the drinks were as long - or longer - than for the food. Bands jamming. (Jazz music on Sunday.)

Popped into the Cellar Masters' Wine Auction on Friday where they were pouring Cakebread Cellars wines (that's one very nice chardonnay).

I chatted for a while with Dale DeGroff a.k.a. "King Cocktail" who recently released a new book "The Essential Cocktail: The Art of Mixing Perfect Drinks" (Clarkson Potter.) I'm doing a story on Dale and cocktails later this spring. He was shaking "Ritz cocktails" and flavored them with a orange peel that he first lit with a match. (What's up with that?) Dale had me put out my palm, stuck a match and touch it to the peel The heat released the oils and aroma of citrus in my hand was amazing.

(That, apparently, is one of the secrets of his tasty cocktails.)

Food was being passed around from three Stephen Starr restaurants (Tangerine, Buddakan, and Barclay Prime) - but I can't tell you how it was. Never sampled a bite. In fact, never saw a tray that wasn't empty. Which was disappointing.

And I'm not the only one who found it a bit off-putting that volunteers were walking around shushing the crowd. I understand that the wine auction was going on and it was difficult to hear the bids - but it's hard to keep a large group - who's been drinking wine and cocktails - quiet. Especially at a social event where they have paid $90 a ticket.

Maybe next year they can think of a way to put the wine auction in a separate room than the food and drinks? Just a thought.

Some chefs really stepped up to the plate. Some of my favorite bites of Friday night: Scallop ceviche from Ameritage; crab and crawfish cake from Augusta Grille; shrimp remoulade po'boy from Harry's Seafood Grill; Home Grown Cafe's tea smoked tuna sashimi with spicy sprout kimchee; and coconut ice cream from Woodside Farms Creamery.

On Saturday afternoon - I ran into Seattle chef - and Delaware native -Tom Douglas at Casapulla's in Hockessin. (Yet another example of Delaware: Small Wonder.) Can't get good old Delaware subs and cheesesteaks in the Pacific Northwest.


On Sunday, Douglas, helped by longtime pal Tom Ditzler, made an amazing dish using fresh Wild King salmon rubbed with his special spice rub and topped it with quail eggs that he ordered from Vermont. (Douglas, nominated for the James Beard Award of Most Outstanding Restaurateur this year, changed his dish at the last minute - it was supposed to be corned beef hash with quail eggs. Douglas said the salmon just came into season and he wanted to use it.) It was so good, I wanted to go back for seconds.

Here's my story on the event with just a few more tidbits to add:

- Ben Pollinger from New York's Oceana made one of the most wonderful springtime influenced dishes of the day: Alaskan scallops with a salad of English peas, fava beans and pickled ramps. Just lovely. "We're looking for something packed with flavor," said Pollinger about his dish that could be eaten in two or three bites.

Ben said he came to the Meals brunch after chatting with Hotel du Pont chef Tom Hannum. A cook who used to work for Hannum used him for as a reference when he applied for a job at Oceana. Pollinger called Hannum to talk about the job candidate and while Hannum had Pollinger on the phone, he decided to recruit him for the brunch. (The restaurant industry can be a very small world.)

- Sunday's event also was sold-out (all 1,300 tickets were gone) - but there seemed to be less people than the previous years..... Anyone notice that??

- Rumor was going around that Vice President Biden would make appearance. He didn't. But no big surprise. He's never been a regular attendee to the brunch. (If he's ever come?)

- Sign of the economy? The flower arrangements were smaller and no ice sculptures or vodka "luges" this year.

- I noticed a line all morning for the spicy shrimp and sausage with tasso gravy with creamy white grits from Magnolia's of Charleston, S.C.


- Kobe beef meatballs from chef Randy Donze at Michele's at Dover Downs had plenty of fans.


- Some of the out-of-town guest chefs told me they were hopping Amtrak today to dine around New York. (They loved that NYC is so close.) California chef Jesse Mallgren of Madrona Manor - who made the really cool liquid nitrogen ice cream along with maitre d'/wine director Joseph Bain - said he had reservations at Le Bernardin. (Say hi to Eric Ripert.)







Thursday, April 16, 2009

Reader Mail

Some technical difficulties today - no photos or images will upload (errrrr!) - so please bear with me for this installment of Reader Mail. (Remember: You ask. We answer. Every Friday. Email your dining questions to ptalorico@delawareonline.)

So much going on this weekend!

The eat-a-thon begins tonight with "Evening with the Masters" at the Center on the Riverfront. Tickets are $75. You can get them at the door.

Fork over $15 more and you entry to the private party within the party "Cellar Masters' Wine Auction" - with host Sara Cakebread from Cakebread Cellars and drinks shaken by "King Cocktail Dale DeGroff.

The creme de la creme of the weekend is the Celebrity Chefs' Brunch.

I'll be out and about this weekend - if you see me, say hey! A daily story is coming Monday and look for some Second Helpings updates, too. Stay tuned.

IN OTHER DINING NEWS:

Eric Ruth finds beauty in braised dishes today: including meals at 2 Fat Guys, D&H Jamaican and Eclipse Bistro.

Some pals and I grabbed a table - next to the window - at Orillas Tapas Bar & Restaurant Wednesday night for the Wilmington After Work promotion. Every Wednesday from 5 to 7 p.m. several downtown Wilmington restaurants offer specials including $4 glasses of wine and lower priced apps. At first, it didn't look like many people were taking advantage of the promotion. (It could have been the rain.) Later, however, a stretch white limo pulled up in front of the eatery and out piled a bunch of people. No clue who they were.

Nice night, even though our server kept trying to take away plates that were still half full. After a while, it started to feel like a wrestling match.

HOT DELAWARE DOG!

I want to talk about true Delaware eats during an upcoming interview on Martha Stewart Living Radio, so I took one reader's suggestion and popped into Deerhead Hot Dogs at 620 Maryland Ave., Wilmington; 998-4191. Deerhead has been around since 1935.

It's been about a year since I've had a Deerhead dog with "the secret sauce." What is it? The secret sauce is, well, a secret. I have never been able to pry the recipe from anyone. (Maybe it's refried beans?) Any hoo, I got a single dog ($2.25) - which they split in half and then fried - topped with the hush-hush tan colored sauce. Also ordered double dogs ($2.95) for two co-workers.

Man, was the sauce spicy! Not that it wasn't tasty, but I don't remember it being so fiery. Good thing I ordered a lemonade ($1.70 small) to cool the burn.

VERY COOL (AND VERY EXPENSIVE) UPCOMING EVENT:

Domaine Hudson wine bar and eatery, 1314 N. Washington St., Wilmington, will be pouring Harlan and Bond estate wines - known as "cult" California vino - at an exclusive five-course dinner on May 2.

Harlan and Bond cabernet sauvignon wines, which often sell at auction for more than $1,000 a bottle - if you can find any, that is - have achieved a certain cache among wine aficionados, and small production has brought them cult status among collectors. Eight different wines - six Bond and two Harlan - will be served. Details available at www.domainehudson.com/HarlanBond.html

The wine is in limited supply, seating is also limited. Advance reservation, secured with a credit card, is required. Cost: $500 - that's NOT a typo - per person plus gratuity. Call Domaine Hudson, 655-9463.

IT DOESN'T LOOK LIKE A WELL-LIGHTED PLACE

QUESTION: Hello Patricia,

Do you know if Francine's is closed? Last couple of times I drove by it looked dark and empty. What happened?

Thanks.
Karen McDonnell

ANSWER: Francine's - the former Tomm's Produce Market on Del. 41 in Hockessin - opened a year ago in April. But not long after opening there were major problems with the refrigeration units. Francine just sent out a newsletter explaining the woes. Long story short: Business is closed. For now. Francine writes that she is working on a new business plan and hopes to reopen the market.

CITY RESTAURANT WEEK RESERVATIONS?


QUESTION: Patricia, Can you provide me details on how I can get tickets for the Loop Three dinner. Loop Three -- Appetizers at Mikimoto's; entree at C.W. Harborside; dessert at Harry's Seafood Grill.

Barbara

ANSWER: Reservations can be made online at cityrestaurantweek.com.

THAI-ING ONE ON FOR NEW YEAR'S

QUESTION: Last year's celebration at Tasti Thai went so well that the owners are trying it again. We had hoped we could have something larger with more ethnic involvement this year but business has been very slow because of the economy I have enjoyed the two Malay restaurants that have opened up in Pike Creek near my home. Unfortunately Soybean (no pork) has medium curries that are too hot for my Sri Lanken neighbors (and they like it really hot). Pinang (Chinese-Malay) is a lot of fun (try the Sarang Burong the next time you are there) but still doesn't do a curry quite like Tasti Thai. And no one is as hospitable and food oriented as the Thai.Kun Song has shown some of her Thai friends from DC the restaurant opportunities in the area and I had hoped the Thai community would be expanded so they could work together on the New Year's celebration, but not this year unfortunately.Thanks again for your help. Barb Jezl

ANSWER:
We have some very devoted Tasti Thai fans here at Second Helpings Central. (And, yes, Ron, I'm talking about you!) Nice to hear from some others. Support your local restaurateurs.

ONE FINE CUP OF GIUSEPPE

QUESTION: I had the best cappuccino at that new coffee shop in Hockessin this morning. The best since a cup of the same that I had in Dublin, of all places!
Joann

ANSWER: Joann, are you talking about the Over Coffee Cafe in Lantana Square Shopping Center off Del. 7 and Valley Road? I've been hearing good buzz about it. (Buzz, hee-hee.) The best cup of Joe I've ever had was in Trieste, Italy. Think I'm making a coffee run today.

SHANG HAI QUESTIONS CONTINUE

QUESTION: May have misssed it if you wrote about it, but the best Chinese food in Delaware was to be had at Claymont's Shanghai restaurant. Last fall they suddenly disappeared and the building has been renovated for office use. Did these folks set up shop somewhere else (I hope)? Their food was wonderful. Thanks for any info you can provide.

Delawaregirl

ANSWER: Happy Friday Delawaregirl. What happened to Shang Hai? is probably one of the most frequently asked questions on this blog.

There was a fire and the business closed. But the mourning for this great little Chinese eatery continues.

I am trying to track down the owners and see if they plan to relocate. As soon as I get some more information, I will share it.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Bon Appetit on Delaware


Bon Appetit magazine's May issue is devoted to the best eats in all 50 states.

When it comes to chomping and quaffing in Delaware, they say you can't go wrong with:

- Focaccia at Black Lab Breads, 812 N. Union St., Wilmington.

- Crab cakes at Sambo's Tavern, 283 Front St., Leipsic.

- 90 Minute IPA from Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats, 320 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach (brewery is in Milton.)

(We have to say that's not a bad list - to start.)

For Bon Appetit's complete list of the "United Plates of America," visit www.bonappetit.com/

What do you think?

I'm going to be a guest on Martha Stewart Living Radio on Sirius XM Satellite Radio later this month to talk about Delaware food. (More details to come.)

What Delaware food/restaurants do you think deserve a mention? Comment, comment, comment.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Food D.O.G.s: Harry, the Vet, and Phillies Franks


I might be the only person in the world who misses Veterans Stadium.

Walking past the Spectrum toward the statuesque facade. Climbing the ramp to the turnstile.

Buying a program just before going in and seeing that sliver of artificial turf and pregame warmups through the humongous overhang.

But Harry Kalas's death on Monday gave me one more reason to pine for, admittedly, one of the ugliest baseball parks of all time - and it's food.

When I think of Harry's voice in the realm of ballpark eats, I think of trips to the concession stand for a Phillies Frank. If you walked out of one of the Vet's typically empty upper-level sections onto the concourse area, the first and only thing you’d hear was Harry, doing the radio broadcast, and his golden pipes bouncing around the concrete.

Sometimes there'd only be a few concessions stands open, so you'd have to walk for a while. Harry would be with you the whole way, keeping you updated on whatever Shane Rawley or Juan Samuel was doing out on there on the field.

Eventually, you'd come upon that humble holy grail of a concession stand that the Vet had to offer. It wasn't much. Nachos, fries, ice cream (in the Phillies batting helmet!), soft pretzels.

And the Franks. Oh the glorious Franks. Load those suckers up with mustard and ketchup and relish and whatever else they'd have. I could eat five of them, or more if the Dollar Dog Day had been invented in the mid-1980s.

It's easy for these bandwagon jumpers of today, chowing down one of these fancy foot-long dogs at Citizens Bank Park, or Bull's Barbecue sandwiches, or Tony Luke's cheesesteaks, all while watching a newly minted championship team.

Back in my day, we had plain old hot dogs, and sub-.500 records, and Kevin Gross. And we liked it!

(Oh, and it didn't hurt that we had Harry, too.)

Peter Bothum

Monday, April 13, 2009

Harry the K



As Whitey would say "It's hard to believe..."
Had the Phils on yesterday while making Easter dinner, partly so I could hear Harry's voice. It's been a part of my life since childhood.

I'm heartbroken.
In this November 2006 photo, Kalas is picking out raffle ticket winners at a fundraiser for special needs children at Price Lanes in Prices Corner.

Monday, Monday

Hi, everyone.

Hope your holiday went well. My kitchen was a no ham zone this year.

I was going to make leg of lamb for Easter, but decided to do rack of lamb after seeing some good looking hunks at Costco. Yep, Costco, a place I vowed to stay away from because I suddenly find myself buying 25 pounds of flour for no real reason....

But the allure of Costco can be hard to resist, especially the meat and cheese aisles. (What am I going to do with 3 boxes of Boursin cheese and a huge log of goat cheese? I don't know yet, but I have a feeling a savory smoked salmon tart may be making a guest appearance in my kitchen very soon.)

The lamb - which was already Frenched - was easy and tasted terrific: Sprinkle each rack with salt, pepper, seasonings (I used Penzeys Tuscan Sunset) and olive oil, sear on the stove in a grill pan until nicely browned and then toss in a preheated oven at 400 degrees until medium rare, about 20 to 25 minutes.

I served it with a fresh mint/basil sauce - inspired by a salsa verde from Giada De Laurentiss - made with lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, and some other spices. Very nice. Served it with roasted asparagus and my riff on a feta cheese-flecked, tomato, basil and green onion orzo salad (see photo) also from Giada.

I'm playing catch up after being off the clock for more than week, so probably no more updates today.






Saturday, April 4, 2009

Reader mail follow-up and clearing the air

Back in February, I received an email from a chef who seemed very angry and questioned my credentials.

I understand how easy it is to fire off an email and then regret sending it. That's why I called the email author - since he had included his phone number - before posting the letter so we could discuss it. When I didn't get a response, I posted the email on Reader Mail.

Today Chef Jamie Campbell sent me a very sincere email apologizing for what he calls "my hastily written email in February."

I'm not going to print the rest of the letter - that's just between us. Thanks, chef, and I want to say there are no hard feelings on my end. I've been in this business for a long time and have a pretty thick skin.

Chef Campbell also wanted to tell me that someone has been posting comments as "jcampbell" and he wants to make it clear that it is not him, but another person with the same name or who is using that name. The most recent comment came after Chef Robert Lhulier asked if we could filter hecklers.

Chef Campbell wrote: "I don't know Chef Lhulier personally, but has the utmost respect of all the chefs, restaurateurs and patrons that I know. Very simply, I would never publicly tell him to suck eggs."

OK, so now we're clear. Please, play nice everyone.

Now, I'm heading into the kitchen to make a few dips to take a basketball watching party I'm going to later today.

I'm off the clock for a while. I'll see you all back here on April 13.

Enjoy your Passover seders and Easter dinners. (I'm making leg of lamb this year.)

Friday, April 3, 2009

More Reader Mail and news...


Happy Friday!

Former Shipley Grill owner Sean Reilly performs as Sinatra at Ameritage in Wilmington. Read Gary Soulsman's story.

Some upcoming changes to report:

Coming soon - most likely next week - we will be welcoming a few new bloggers to Second Helpings.

News Journal editors Peter Bothum, Jeff Gentry and Andre Smith are our new food DOGs - (Dining Out Guys.)

Their rotating posts will take the place of "Regular Guy Grub" that previously ran on Tuesdays.

While Peter, Jeff and Andre will still be chatting about "Regular Guy" food, they'll also chew other topics such as barbecuing, tailgating, cooking at home, etc. I'm very psyched to add their voices to the blog.

NOTE:
I will be taking a break from the keyboard starting Monday through April 13. The DOGs may begin guest blogging the week I'm away.

I received a couple of emails after Thursday's Reader Mail that I want to post today since there will be no Reader Mail on April 10.

Here's what readers had to say:

SAY "CIAO" TO CAFE NAPOLI

QUESTION: Hi Patricia. I am also SO jealous of your job! I wanted to comment on the gentleman who wanted authentic Italian. I don't think you can go wrong with Cafe Napoli. While they do give your standard Italian American dishes, they will also make anything you request. They have wonderful Caprese Salad and do have Limoncello too. I find their sauces flavorful, their portions outrageous, and their prices rock bottom. My son is a graduate of the Restaurant School in Philly and loves it there. Those food folks are definitely picky!
Beryl Gamiel

ANSWER: The love goes about to Napoli.

DID YOU KNOW THAT LUIGI IS A CIA ALUM?

QUESTION: Just a quick note about [Luigi Vitrone's] Pastabilities which you suggested in the article. Luigi is a graduate of CIA. Maybe the two of them can relive the old school memories.

Howard J. Karten

ANSWER: Thanks for the note Howard.

A RESTAURANT NEAR THE GRAND....

QUESTION: I'm e-mailing you because I love your restaurant reviews, but I wondered if you could give me a tip for a Wilmington restaurant for tonight? We are going to an 8 p.m. show at The Grand and we would like something fairly close by if possible. I wish I could remember some of the places you have recommended! We like pretty much any kind of food.
JoAnn Dawson

ANSWER: Dinner and show sounds like a great way to start the weekend, JoAnn. I like Orillas Tapas Bar & Restaurant on Market Street.You can get little plates of Spanish food. There's also Ameritage at Ninth and Orange streets and The Exchange at Ninth and Market streets.

I would call one of those restaurants RIGHT NOW, make reservations and explain that you are attending a Grand show. Have fun!

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Reader Mail

Hey there, food lovers.

Reader Mail is coming at you early today. There are a couple of questions that have appeared recently in the comments section that I'm working on getting answers. And more food news is coming on Friday.

Stay tuned.

(Hey! I just heard that the UD Blue & Gold club is closing this summer?? More to come on that soon.)

Recently, we blogged about "Project Runway" guru Tim Gunn being spotted at the Wilmington train station. Gunn apparently has been spotted in Delaware more than once.


We're working on getting an interview with the classy Mr. Gunn. In the meantime, a reader sent me a funny email that I don't think she'll mind me sharing about her husband's encounter with the sharp dressed man at the Wilmington train station over Thanksgiving last year:

My husband: "My wife and daughter watch you all the time on the show and love it. As you can see I have no style."

Tim, being polite, since my husband was dressed in grubby jeans and a T-shirt: "Well, you have your own sense of style."

Nicely done, Mr. Gunn. What a gracious, classy guy.

The mailbag is stuffed today. Keep the email coming. You ask. We answer. Every Friday (or earlier.) Email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com.

TO CLARIFY: LOYAL GUESTS SING PRAISES FOR LAMBERTI'S CUCINA

QUESTION: Hello Patricia,

I am writing to you on behalf of Lamberti's Cucina on Centerville Road in Wilmington.

I recently discovered your postings regarding our restaurant and I wanted to make a clarification. In talking with our different guests, we discovered that they had taken it upon themselves to write reviews about their experiences on various sites, including delawareonline.com.

Neither of the reviews below that you posted on the site were written by any member of the Lamberti organization. The reviews may sound suspicious, however, I assure you, they were written by our loyal guests.

We make it a point to talk to our guests when they come in to dine with us, this is how they would know so much about our operation. We pride ourselves on giving a great dining experience for each guest that walks into Lamberti's Cucina on Centerville Road.

When we see a review, especially a positive one, it is encouraging to see our hard work rewarded. For any negative feedback, we do our best to correct anything we can with our customer service. For you to suggest to the online public that we are writing reviews ourselves, it is disheartening for us because it is not true and it gives negative feedback and thoughts about Lamberti's Cucina.

We have no way of responding to these comments of yours, except through you directly, the one that is suggesting such. Please consider posting this in reponse to the comments you have on your site.

Thank you for taking the time to read my email.

Regards,
Denise Sanfarraro
Marketing Coordinator

Lamberti Restaurants

ANSWER: Thanks for the email Denise. And your letter has been posted. Part of my job is to be skeptical about information I receive - and share with readers. My Spidey sense begins tingling if letters sound too familiar or read almost too "P.R." ish. Restaurants are very lucky to have such loyal guests, which it sounds like this organization does indeed.

IS ARSENAL CLOSED?

QUESTION: Do you know what happened that the Arsenal on the Green is closed? They said they couldn't tell us when they cancelled our reservation. Thank you.


ANSWER: OK, this gets a little confusing, so bear with me. I called the Arsenal at Old New Castle at 30 Market St., in historic New Castle, and Sue Ellis told me that the restaurant was "temporarily closed." While banquets were being honored, the eatery would be closed "to the public for a while." Then I was asked to call the nearby Jessop's Tavern at 114 Delaware St., for more information. Both restaurants are owned by Dick and Tika Day, but the actual Arsenal building, which dates back to 1809, is owned by the state.

The director of operations at Jessop's, who declined to give his name, said "we're exploring how to rearrange the business matters of the Arsenal." He added that "the state has been gracious." This is, apparently, going to be an ongoing process - and I'll be checking back with the Arsenal (and Jessop's) again soon. Keep reading Second Helpings!


WHERE TO FIND "AUTHENTIC" ITALIAN?

QUESTION: Good morning. I love your website!

I have been looking for an Italian restaurant in the area that is "authentic" Italian. I hate to say I have high standards, but my fiance is a graduate from the Culinary Institute of America and she can not stand "egg noodles with ketchup." Her idea of an Italian dinner is something like tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil with balsamic; homemade noodles and fresh, fresh, fresh ingredients preferable seafood. I'm making myself hungry. Ha ha. While she was in culinary school in Hyde Park, N.Y., we would go to several places where she could get cioppino and some lemoncello for dessert.

I really enjoy Italian food, but I want to take her to a place and after the meal just say.....'Wow, that was great.'"


Have any ideas??? Thanks. Keep up the good work.

I'm jealous of your job,
Jason Fox


ANSWER: Jason, one of the best "authentic" Italian restaurants that I've dined - outside of Italy - is Vetri in Philadelphia. It's pricey, but wonderful. (That's where Mario Batali goes to eat Italian - and he happens to be good friends with owner Marc Vetri.)

I also like Marc Vetri's other eatery, Osteria, and the Mezza Luna restaurant in Philadelphia.

You can't go wrong at Toscana Kitchen + Bar. And I had a very good dinner last summer at Lupo di Mare in Rehoboth Beach - and was pleased to see that served negronis!

There's a world of difference - and I know readers love to argue this point - between Italian-American restaurants - which tend to focus on Neapolitan cuisine - and "authentic" Italian dishes that what one would find in trattorias in Italy. (For instance, I've eaten pork and sauerkraut in Trieste and I'm sure most people in the U.S. would never associate that with an Italian meal!)

In the past - and it's been a while between visits - I've had good luck at Luigi Vitrone's Pastabilities. Readers have been touting Pomodoro on Union Street in Wilmington recently and Eric Ruth recently gave a "fork up" review to the new Capers & Lemons near Mill Creek.

Readers - bring it on: What "authentic" Italian restaurants do you love?

ANYWAY TO FILTER OUT THE HECKLERS?

QUESTION: Hi Patty,

I've been a regular reader of Second Helpings ever since it began. It helps me stay in tune with what's going on in my industry, often before it makes headlines. I appreciate the postings that connect our state with the rest of the dining industry around the country, and naturally all things culturally relevant.
Some other blogs I read and respect are Chowhound.com and the New York Times blog by Frank Bruni.

I appreciate your knowledge and reporting, your wit and candor, but also your tact in dealing with what seems to be an inevitable downside.

My comments today are on the absolute ignorance of some of the people who are able to post on Second Helpings. They range from the juvenile, to grossly misinformed to flat out rude and nasty. I've read other posts on delawareonline.com, and some are downright offensively racist.

My question is, can anything be done to filter these comments from ever making it on line. There's nothing more pathetic and cowardly than an anonymous on-line heckler. Or, is this, sadly, part of the reality of online information in the information age?

Best regards,
Chef Robert Lhulier

ANSWER: Welcome chef. We LOVE getting email from our toque-wearing friends.

So here's the deal: The News Journal strives to delete offensive comments. According to editors well above me, "the juvenile and grossly misinformed are entitled to their views, but the racist and personally nasty are not."

I've toyed with the idea of having our computer people - yes, I have "people!" (and that's a joke IT guys, whom I adore, please don't send me a computer virus) - set up a filter that allows me to approve of comments before they are posted. But I am a proponent of freedom of speech and I want to encourage people to be candid and keep the debate lively.

For the most part, I have found that folks who read, comment on and send emails to Second Helpings are honest, passionate food and beverage lovers (air kiss! air kiss!) who are eager to share their opinions.

All dining reviews in The News Journal have bylines. And kudos to those who use their real name in comments section.If you want to send an email that is critical of a restaurant, I must insist that you use your name before I will post on Second Helpings. I think that's fair.

The bottom line: I don't want to censor. But, please, all I ask, dear readers is that we be respectful and intelligent with our comments. Humor also goes a long way.

WHAT HAPPENED TO THE "LAST STOP BEFORE HOME?"

QUESTION: Last summer, [Third Base Produce] stand was closing down at the end of the season due to more houses that were going to be built on the site. At the time, no one could say where they would be relocating. This was the stand on U.S. 13 not far from the Moose Club. Have you any idea where it is going to be? They had the best produce and their corn was always fresh. I went to no other place.

Cheryl Wilkinson

ANSWER: Cheryl, you've not alone in mourning Third Base. This question came up in January. I left a message with the state Department of Agriculture and will update with information as soon as I find out.