Rehoboth Farmers Market

Just got back from a visit to the new Rehoboth Beach Farmers Market in Grove Park (near the Chamber of Commerce on Rehoboth Avenue.)

The setting is really great - the park is shaded, there's a playground, public restrooms and free parking on several streets. People are so psyched to have this market in town. Consumers today want to know where their produce is coming from and how it's grown. Farmers are right on hand to answer all questions. The market is held every Tuesday from 3 to 6 p.m. (Go early - that's when the best pick of produce is available.) I picked up some amazing baby eggplants, super ripe tomatoes, corn, Lavendar Farms bug spray (all natural and it's supposed to keep away mosquitos) and some of the most fragrant peaches I have ever smelled, along with some local honey. I'm writing a story about this market for next Thursday's Home & Garden section. I'll keep you posted. OK, gotta go.. The corn I bought and boiled is ready.

Screaming for Woodside ice cream

Check out the "Get thee to a creamery" article in the August issue of Gourmet magazine. It’s our own Hockessin creamery. Longtime "road food" husband and wife writers Jane and Michael Stern popped into Woodside Farms Creamery, 1310 Little Baltimore Road, and sampled the super duper ice cream produced on the Hockessin farm. "If we lived anywhere near New Castle County, Delaware, we'd come for a cone a day," the pair write. Visit www.woodsidefarmcreamery.com for more information

What a tomato

If Rachael Ray is the Food Network's Girl Next Door, I guess hottie cook Giada DeLaurentiis is its Homecoming Queen. But, this recent picture in Esquire magazine looks, kind of, well, gross to me. Or maybe this is Esquire's version of Giada channelling Carrie as Homecoming Queen. Well, in that case, bloody well done!

Po' boys

Hey foodies, I'm back from vacation and dealing with a ginormous amount of email and snail mail. While I play catch-up, let me entice you with this tidbit:

Have you ever been to the Seafood Shack on Baltimore Avenue in Rehoboth Beach?
If not, go. Now.
The house specialty at this no-frills eatery is seafood po'boys and they are outstanding. I've written about the Shack before, but I believe it's one of Rehoboth's true culinary gems. Get either the peacemaker po'boy - fried oysters, fried shrimp and a little crabcake - or the crabcake po'boy. The sandwiches come on a great roll and are dressed with shredded lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise. (You can also get remoulade or wasabi mayonnaise.) Order a side of coleslaw - it's crunchy, homemade and not too sweet.

Can't wait to check out the new Cultured Pearl

One of my goals during a recent morning of Rehoboth restaurant scouting was to check out the new location of the Cultured Pearl, which has led the city's sushi scene for quite a number of years. Once situated in a tranquil spot on Wilmington Avenue, the Pearl has hitched up its trousers and shuffled on over the Rehoboth Avenue -- a location that turns out not to be as prominent as it sounds. Even after I found the place, I had trouble "finding" it, since it's apparently situated on the second floor of the building, with very little in the way of signage to lead you in the right direction. From the street, the open-air deck looks beautiful, very Japanese, and will no doubt cause some excitement among fans this summer. Here's how they tout it on the restaurant's Web site:

"The Main Dining Room reflects the inside of a Japanese home and through the window, guests can enjoy a view of the patio, alive with a waterfall, a fish laden stream, and lush plantings illuminated by torch light . In the Garden Room, located off of the main dining room, guests find waterfalls, a meandering stream, a parakeet shelter and leafy trees and plants. Directly behind the Garden Room is the Garden Nook. Here guests dine seated on soft benches and enjoy the finches in their wrought iron cage."

A dining review is coming soon -- keep your eyes peeled for it in 55hours.

Back from the beach ....

Hey folks -- your faithful foodie Eric Ruth here. Patty Talorico's on vacation this week (7/23-7/30), so you're stuck with me until she is done relaxing (and no doubt tasting) her summer away.

Of course, there's no reason why we can't pretend we're on a vacation of sorts too, and indulge in some of the temptations I discovered this weekend at the Delaware beaches.

After having taken approximately 3,256 strolls down Baltimore Avenue in my lifetime, I finally discovered Lori’s Oy Vey Café (39 Baltimore Ave.), tucked wayyyy in the back of what's called "The Courtyard." From your perch on one of the outdoor tables, you get a serene and cozy view of the passing people, along with one of owner Lori Kline's deliciously creative sandwiches.

I attacked the "Oy Vey" -- three ounces of smoked salmon topped with bacon, lettuce, tomato, capers and cream cheese, served on chewy French bread ($8.50). Bagels also get prime treatment here, whether it's with silken smoked salmon, or one of Lori's nicely vibrant vegetarian creations. Here are a couple that perked my interest (available on your choice of bread):

Cool as a Cucumber...Garlic and olive cream cheese topped with crispy-cool cukes and tomatoes (sprouts and red onion upon request) $5.50

Brie a la Val...Melted Brie cheese topped w/ toasted almonds, Granny Smith apples and a dab of honey mustard; served on French bread. $5.50

That "award-winning" chicken salad also sounds like a must-try, chocked as it is with blue cheese, toasted almonds and tart apples.

Condimental Fundamentals

Who even knew that there's an Association for Dressings and Sauces, or that the folks there were able to tell so much about us by the foods we eat.

A recent survey by the Atlanta organization found that the condiments we choose can provide an insight into our personalities, and that the kind of people we are often is a good predictor of what condiments we favor. Here are some of their insights, as excerpted from a QSR Magazine report:

> Salsa lovers are motivated extroverts.

> Hot-sauce fanciers, who are mostly men, rate themselves as more happy, ambitious, spontaneous, and risk-loving than other condiment users.

> Mayo lovers are most often women.

> Salad dressings are more popular with women than men, and 25 percent of women use them more than any other condiment sauce.

> Salad-dressing devotees tend to be younger, more reserved, and more self-disciplined than any other group. They are more likely to spend their time pursuing creative endeavors.

> Men tend to enjoy barbecue sauce more than women. Barbecue-sauce-users describe themselves as more creative, competitive, athletic, and witty than other condiment users.

> People who prefer horseradish to all other condiment sauces are the most family-oriented of any group, and also consider themselves more creative than other condiment connoisseurs.

> Mustard seems to be a uniter, not a divider. Among those surveyed, few significant differences in mustard-liking emerge among geographic or gender lines. Mustard usage is strongest among consumers age 35 to 64 and is favored by those who consider themselves ambitious, self-disciplined and family-oriented. Mustard-lovers also rate themselves as more shy than any other condiment-favoring group.

Fine Dining in Newark? Well, sort of.

While the offerings have been improving in recent years (thanks to Home Grown and Caffe Gelato), Newark has always been pretty much a wasteland for fine dining. Now, from the well-heeled hills over the line in Landenberg, Pa., comes word of hope. For about two months now, Amici's has been bringing some decidedly ambitious food to these long-suffering Newarkites, and while I haven't tried it yet, the menu compels a visit in the near future. Check out their Web site at www.amicislandenberg.com.

I have to admit, I'm most tempted to indulge in the $100-per-plate "Surf & Turf Extraordinaire," consisting of a grilled 8 oz Kobe beef filet with crab imperial, paired with a 6 oz Australian lobster tail with a white truffle/lemon zest compound butter. The martini bar with 70 different martinis also sounds like it's worth a sip or two.

Here are a few more temptations from the menu:

~ Lobster Ravioli
Home-made Lobster Ravioli with Baby Roma Tomato Confit, Sweet Basil-Almond Pesto and Parmesan Curl.

~ Broiled Prawns
Served on Rosemary Skewers with Vegetable Caponata and Black Pepper-Dried Cherry Compound Butter.

~ Tuscan Panzanella Salad
Served with Seared Yellow Fin Tuna, Garlic Roasted Plum Tomatoes, Grilled Italian Ciabatta Bread, Cucumber, Sweet Red Onion, Fresh Herbs and Balsamic Vinaigrette.

~ Herb Crusted Lamb Chops
Served with Roasted Fennel & Orange Salad, Fingerling Potatoes and Peppercorn-Mint Gastrique.

~ Roasted Pork Tender Loin
Prosciutto Wrapped, Stuffed with Sun-dried Tomato Pesto & Portobello Mushrooms, with Saffron-Walnut Risotto & Herb Olive Oil.

~ Grilled King Salmon
Served with Creamy Parmesan Polenta, Asparagus & Baby Carrot Sauté and Rosemary- Sweet Pepper Compound Butter.

Reader mail

Reader mail. You ask. Every Friday, we answer.

QUESTION: New restaurant in Lewes area called Kindle in Paynters Mill off Cave Neck Rd (route 88) Just opened, haven't eaten there but I saw several platters coming out looked wonderful. Menu is limited but covers most of the bases. Drinks are very pricey but the food prices were very reasonable. When in the area you might want to try it out.

Sincerely,
Myron C. Marchak

ANSWER: Myron, thanks for the heads-up. I heard about Kindle (see July 16 post) when I was writing about Half Full, the gourmet pizza place in Lewes. I'm planning on dropping in next week.

QUESTION: Have you reviewed any of the restaurants in Dewey? I am familiar with restaurants in Rehoboth but not in the Dewey Beach area and would find it very informative. Thanks.

ANSWER: Ah, Dewey. I have so many memories of being a part of group homes where everyone had money for cocktails, but no one wanted to pony up for toilet paper, paper towels and light bulbs. Priorities, priorities. OK, so when I think Dewey Beach, I must say restaurants don't automatically come to mind. It's a town that has always been much more concerned about what is being poured in the glass, and not so much as what's being served on the plate. (See my buddy Ryan Cormier's blog.) But maybe I should give it a second look. Ryan gives forks up to the pizza at Mama Celeste's. And you certainly can't beat the view of Rehoboth Bay from the deck of the Rusty Rudder, 113 Dickinson Street & The Bay. But I can't endorse the food. Never, ever, had a good meal there. Get a drink, listen to the Island Boyz, the house steel band, and chow elsewhere. I have, however, always been a big booster of Sharky's Grill, an open-air food stand off Del. 1 and Read Avenue. Sharky's is named for co-owner Rick "Sharky" Shindledecker, a super-amiable guy who likes to chat up customers who occupy the tables and bar stools that dot the deck. You order at the counter and someone calls your name. You get free drinks refills. The Cuban sandwich, a combination of ham, roast pork, Swiss cheese and dill pickles that's packed between a sliced roll and pressed on a griddle instantly became a hit with customers and continues to be the most popular offering at this beach-block stand.

One of the best breakfast spots is the Sunrise Restaurant, 2300 Highway One, 227-3202. And you certainly can't beat the breakfast and Bloody Mary bar at the Starboard, 2009 Highway One, (tho, sometimes, to me, the place smells like stale beer and frat house aromas are not what I want to be sniffing at 9 a.m. with my coffee and breakfast.) Venus on the Half Shell, Dagsworthy Street and the Bay, a dinner only, fine-dining spot with an Asian flair, has its fans.

Two summers ago, a bunch of us went to the Crabbers Cove, 113 Dickinson Street & The Bay, for all-you-can-eat crabs. Again, lovely view. Food got a collective "eh." (The crabs were overcooked.)

Two Seas Restaurant, 1300 Highway One; 227-2610; is another "fine-dining" spot, but I've never been there. Readers have given thumbs up to the burgers at the Dewey Beach Club, 1205 Highway One; 227-0669

Joe and Johnny Cakes

Check out Friday's Life section for my interview with actor Joe Gannascoli, who played gay mobster Vito Spatafore on "The Sopranos." (The HBO series just scored 15 Emmy nominations.)

Joe will be at Gators nightclub in New Castle on Friday, beginning at 9 p.m. He was very cool, funny and often very "Sopranos" like. (Don't get him started about Dustin "Screech" Diamond who was on "Celebrity Fit Club", a VH1 series that Gannascoli also appeared in.)

Just to give you a taste of the interview - I asked Joe how his on-screen relationship with "Johnny Cakes," a New Hampshire diner owner, plays off screen.

"You always get those jerk-off wiseguys at sporting events who want to say something. But, for the most part, people loved the character,” he says.

And when the actor goes to a restaurant, someone will usually ask: ‘Hey, you getting the ‘Johnny Cakes?’ ”

He takes it in stride. “Mostly, they send over drinks or pick up my tab. It works to my benefit.”

Now, if Johnny Mac could cook...

Last night, I watched tennis great John McEnroe throw a couple of hissy fits, argue with umpires and do the racket-tossing thing at the DuPont Country Club. Johnny Mac is a true showman and always gives the paying crowd what they want. (Hope the woman who fainted in the stands and had to be taken away in an ambulance was OK. And, man! some people need to learn tennis etiquette. Especially the bimbo sitting in front of us who blathered away on her cellphone while McEnroe was serving and playing. I seriously thought the crowd was going to toss her and her stupid cellphone across the net.)

"Top Chef" on Bravo also gave the TV audience a good showing last night thanks to the always reliable Hung, who served up a heapin' helpin' of arrogance and craziness. I love watching full-of-themselves chefs make horrible food and look like total asses.

During the quickfire challenge, chefs had to be creative with frozen pie dough. I was (a little) surprised that so many whipped up savory dishes. But it was probably a smart choice judging by Hung's drippy chocolate mousse banana pie. I had to laugh when the pastry chef judge told winner Joey he has "a future in tarts." Okaaaaayyy....ponder that for just a moment.

The elimination round was about creating Latin dishes for the cast of a Telemundo soap opera. The chefs were told they had 3 hours to prepare dishes. Now, why did anyone actually believe this? Haven't they ever watched this show before? Top Chef is always throwing curve balls so was it such a big shock when Chef Tom told everyone they only had 90 minutes to create dishes?

So glad Chef Tom gave Hung a scolding for running with a knife. (He obviously wasn't paying attention to the no-running-with-scissors rule in pre-K.) Thought it was a little strange that Lia went home for her polenta dish when everyone seemed to hate Casey's fake mole (why did she use coffee and molasses? mole is dried chiles and a little chocolate), that tasted like "cough syrup." And then there was her mushy rice. Was something missing in the editing?

Chachi is a loser but chefs rule

I've tried overcoming my addictions, but I've learned to just give in to them: I am a reality TV show junkie.

Can't help it. Won't help it. The programs are like eating potato chips. It's too hard to stop after just one. I'll watch Gene Simmons play house with his Playboy Playmate and their two very normal and funny kids; Kathy Griffin make fun of her life and everyone else's on My Life on the D-List; the Little People family who live on a Oregon farm, keep an extremely messy house and drive really big trucks; and creeky old leech Hugh Hefner and his posse of bottled blondes romp around his (kind of tacky) Holmby Hills Mansion.

I do have my limits, tho. I tried to watch that new Chachi is a Single, Middle-Aged Loser series and Scott Baio comes across as, well, pretty much a turd. (It's also faker than the normal fakeness of reality TV; he and his GIRLFRIEND are having a baby.)

Then, there are the three reality TV culinary competitions: Hell's Kitchen, Top Chef and The Next Food Network Star. OK, now we're talking. Here's my story today about the trio of shows. (Don't you just love yelling at the TV when the chefs do something really stupid like when Jen from Hell's Kitchen tried to pick spaghetti out of the TRASHCAN and serve it to someone?? Man, that's scary, but don't think it doesn't happen. I remember seeing a waitress where I once worked long, long ago, scoop up some rolls she dropped on the floor, put them in basket and take them out to a waiting table.)

According to The Food Network, the July 15 episode of "The Next Food Network Star" was the most highly rated telecast in the network’s history.

Pinot noir choices

Harry's Savoy Grill recently had a "Pinot Envy" blind tasting of 10 pinot noirs. Patrons tasted the wine and then picked their favorites. Here's what they chose as the Top Five:

1. Arcadian Sleepy Hollow Vineyard, Santa Lucia Bench '03: raspberry, rhubarb flavors, a little earthiness and more delicate in flavor and color

2. Dierberg, Santa Maria Valley '05: good intensity of flavor, spicy sage and cola, rich color, mineral and earth finish. (This was actually my least favorite wine.)

3. MacMurray Sonoma Coast '05: Forest floor earth aromas, cinnamon-tinged black cherry and pomegranate flavors.

4. Acacia Napa Carneros '05: Briary spice, with ripe, vivid blackberry and plum flavors, rich color for pinot

5. Baileyana "Firepeak Vineyard" Grand Cuvee, Edna Valley '05: Strawberry, rhubarb and raspberry, smooth tannins and velvety texture.

I've corrupted my daughter!

My 8-year-old daughter Jillian hadn't consumed anything but pasta and chicken nuggets for much of her existence, when one day not too long ago she spied a peculiar monstrosity on a sign at Wendy's called "The Baconator." "I want that, Daddy," she said, and soon Daddy was witness to the rare sight of this smidgen of a girl totally devouring an adult-sized burger consisting of two quarter-pound beef patties with six strips of hickory-smoked bacon, American cheese, ketchup and mayo ("Tell them to hold the mayo, daddy").

Bless her little unclogged heart.

I was proud. I was appalled. I had to acknowledge a certain mixed sense of gratitude (that she was finally eating something besides nuggets) and shame (that I was letting her eat enough cholesterol to clog an elephant's arteries). But in the end, I understand the allure of burger bliss, one that seems to peak in summer, and which stimulates this carnivore to explore the newer creations now infesting our casual restaurants. As a dubious public service, I hereby present a few of the more outrageously tempting examples that are now allegedly available locally, as described recently in Restaurants & Institutions magazine:

The Slamburger: Topped with hash-brown casserole, a cooked-to-order egg, cheese sauce and more -- available only during late-night hours. Denny's.

1/2 lb. Flamethrower GrillBurger: Two quarter-pound beef patties, cayenne-pepper-flavored mayo, pepper-Jack cheese and jalapeño bacon. Dairy Queen

Chipotle Bleu Cheese Bacon Burger: Beef patty, chipotle-pepper sauce, blue cheese crumbles, apple-wood-smoked bacon, lettuce, tomato, pickle and blue cheese dressing. Chili’s Bar & Grill

Patty Melt: Beef patty topped with Swiss cheese, grilled onions and zesty Swiss cheese-horseradish sauce on toasted panini bread. Bugaboo Creek Steakhouse

Pressed Burger: Beef patty, salsa ketchup, processed-cheese spread, pickles and mayo on house or wheat bun, pressed until golden brown. Cheeseburger in Paradise

Bacon & Egg Cheeseburger: Beef patty, Cheddar cheese, one egg cooked over-medium, bacon, lettuce, tomato, red onion and mayo on Romano-Parmesan bun. IHOP

American Kobe Sliders: Three mini Kobe beef patties, Ruby Sauce and caramelized onions. Ruby’s Diner

Moosebreath Burger: Half-pound beef patty, garlic-sautéed mushrooms, Cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, mayo, mustard and ketchup. Bugaboo Creek Steakhouse

Kennett's "speakeasy restaurant"

A couple of Fridays ago, I had the privilege of spending a few hours in the kitchen with Bryan Sikora as he prepared a private dinner at Talula's Table, the new Kennett Square, Pa., gourmet shop he runs with his wife Aimee Olexy and partner Claire Shears.

Sikora and Olexy formerly ran Django, their outstanding Philly BYO that earned a four bell (excellent) rating from Philadelphia Inquirer critic Craig LaBan. The couple now hosts private dinners in the shop at a rustic farmhouse table. An eight-course meal is $85, not counting tax or gratuity. You bring the wine. It's an amazing experience, kind of like booking your own restaurant for the night. I want to get a group together and do this soon.

Here's my story from Sunday's paper. Thanks to host Andy Carota for letting me and photographer Bill Bretzger spy on his dinner party.

New Sussex County restaurant

Milton may be the next up-and-coming dining destination. The owners of Half Full (Joanna Goode and Ian Crandall) and Striper Bites (Ali and Matt DiSabatino), both in Lewes, have partnered on a just opened eatery: Kindle Restaurant.

The 80-seat French inspired restaurant is in Payntner's Mill, just north of Lewes off Del. 1; 645-7887. Menu looks good - dinner only and Sunday Brunch. I really enjoyed Half Full in Lewes and plan to stop in Kindle soon.

More reader mail

I hope (fingers crossed!) all the computer bugs are straighten out this week. So, as promised, more reader mail. We usually answer questions on Friday, but here are the letters I couldn't post last week:

QUESTION: Hi Patricia! I am a beginner cook, but I love to try new things and experiment as well as create old standbys. Second Helpings was a truly awesome idea; I am an avid reader of the food columns in the Journal and was so excited when you and Eric began blogging. It is one of the few websites that I visit every day. I was wondering if you knew of any other good websites for recipes, ideas, shared thoughts, etc. Since I am just starting out, I really don't have a collection of recipes to look to for guidance and am looking for ideas for foods/meals that seem interesting. Sort of a go-to website (besides yours, of course). Thanks! Dawn

ANSWER: Hi Dawn, Thanks for being a Second Helpings reader. For recipes, I like www.epicurious.com. If you want to read opinions about restaurants (not from critics) www.chowhound.com is always a fun read. http://blog.ruhlman.com/ can be fun too - it's written by Michael Ruhlman, a well-known food writer and Anthony Bourdain sometimes is a guest blogger. It can a little "insider"ish though. http://chocolateandzucchini.com/ is a favorite of many as is www.egullet.com. Those are the ones that come to mind

QUESTION: I've been going to Rehoboth Beach for a couple of weeks in July (with children and grandchildren) for more than 20 years. Way back when the upscale dining choice was very limited and then it became a great area for fine dining. But, sadly, I think that upscale dining has slipped in the past couple of years. There are, of course, exceptions but they are becoming harder to find. I have a suggestion. It would be great if News Journal Online would have a blog where individuals could comment on the restaurants in the Rehoboth area. It would be great to obtain input from visitors to this wonderful beach area. Larry Rasero

ANSWER: Hi Larry. We do have a culinary blog - Second Helpings - and your letter is on it. I do post information about Rehoboth Beach and Sussex County dining as often as I can, especially in the summer. (Click on Sussex County eats label below.) I just had a review about Half Full, a new and very good gourmet pizza restaurant in Lewes. Eric Ruth just wrote a review about Catch54, the new seafood restaurant in Fenwick Island. (Other reviews are on our dining page.) I think "fine dining" in general is giving way to a much more casual approach. See Eric Ruth's July 10 posting. I'm going to make my rounds in Rehoboth very soon, but I've always enjoyed meals at Espuma and the Back Porch Cafe. What places do you feel are slipping and why?

QUESTION: Upon recently visiting a widowed friend of mine, he offered me a drink from a cache of assorted "hard stuff." He hardly ever drinks any alcohol, so I questioned why he had such an extensive array of bottles and he explained that his wife was a "connoisseur." Well, his wife has been deceased 15 years or more. Of course, I refused the offer. Are these alcoholic beverages safe to drink? Thank you for a response. Sincerely Milly Alderson.

ANSWER: Milly, interesting question, actually according to www.askyourbartender.com, distilled spirits (Liquor) doesn't really go bad - unlike beer and some wines . But if not cared for properly, it will lose it's potency and nuances. The primary rules of proper liquor care: Keep away from harsh light, avoid temperature extremes, keep snuggly capped when not in use.

Still, it's better to be safe than sorry: When in doubt - throw it out.

Reader mail

Hey foodies, computer technical difficulties - again! - were causing some problems with my Reader Mail posting today. Wrinkles are being ironed out. I have several more letters to post. Stay tuned!

QUESTION: Hi there. I'm looking for a really good Italian restaurant in Philly (or Wilmington if there is such a thing) for a special occasion. Chester County or Baltimore are possibilities too. Thanks in advance!!!

ANSWER: Thanks for writing. This is a hard question to answer because it’s pretty vague. I’m not sure how much you want to spend, if you prefer a BYO, etc. Just an FYI: Readers, I love answering questions, but please, just a little more information will help me or Eric narrow the search. In Philly, right now, I’d would probably go to Osteria, 640 N. Broad St., Philadelphia; (215) 763-0920 or www.osteriaphilly.com. This new restaurant is owned by Marc Vetri and Jeff Benjamin, who also run Philly's Vetri Ristorante, considered one of the best Italian restaurants in the country. (Or you could make a reservation there. If you want to drop some big time cash. And it's worth it, in my humble opinion. Reservations can be difficult; there are only 35 seats. Vetri, 1312 Spruce St.; 215) 732-3478; www.vetriristorante.com) Tre Scalini, a Philly BYO at 1915 E. Passyunk Ave., is another longtime favorite. I’ve enjoyed Mezza Luna at 763 S. Eighth St. (Catherine St.) 215-627-4705. Eric Ruth recently visited Pomodoro, 729 N. Union St., Wilmington. 574-9800 in Wilmington’s Little Itay and gave it a 2 1/2 star (good to very good) rating. Here's his review and a story I did on Philadelphia dining that includes remarks about Osteria.

QUESTION: What can you tell me about the Jasmine Asian restaurant on Concord Pike. We want to take our son and his wife out for a special meal. Thanks, Priscilla

ANSWER: Priscilla, I've had good meals at Jasmine Asian Cuisine, 3618 Concord PikeWilmington, 479-5618, but not such great service. It's a hip restaurant and patrons can order all kinds of Pan-Asian dishes, which is nice if someone wants sushi and someone else wants pad Thai.

Top Chef recap

Let's just plow right in about last night's "Top Chef" episode.

During the Quickfire challenge, the contestants had 30 minutes to create an appetizer to go with a "new, modern" cocktail. Uh-oh. That's always scary. I dunno, I'm not a big fan of the new bartending trend of using savory ingredients and certain herbs - like fresh basil - in cocktails. There's way too much room for failure. Have you ever gotten a mojito where the drink slinger has chopped the mint too finely? It's like drinking a salad. Then you have spent the entire time wondering if mint leaves are stuck in your teeth. Just saying.

Sorry, I digress. Back to the program:

- Kudos to Casey for winning immunity - especially after getting stuck with a strawberry balsamic rickey. (Rickeys are dry gin drinks, but syrup or sugar can be added.) Now, really. Does that sound like something you want to drink? Me neither. I want balsamic drizzled on a salad or Parmigiango-Reggiano cheese, not in my beverage.

- Hung is proving to be the thin-skinned, Wendy whiner of the group (beside Joey.) When Hung didn't win, he had to question the judge's taste. Geez, if you think you're so good, go show-off in your own restaurant.

- Then, the group had to break up into teams and prepare a four-course dinner for a bunch of food connoisseurs. This is no easy task, believe me. I've eaten out with food critics from other newspapers and magazines and the pack dog mentality begins. Some alpha critic will start picking apart a dish and the rest of the pack joins in. You either submit to those who are dominant or dominate those who are submissive.

- Camille's pineapple upside cake looked like a tiny hockey puck. I can't figure out why in the world she would serve this kind of grandmom dessert to a group of epicureans (or dog pack). If you're going to do dessert, what's wrong with chocolate? Or using fresh berries? Actually, I forgot Camille was even on this series. She just blended into the background. I still don't know all the contestants names yet.

- Dale's mohawk looked even more goofy when he wrapped a red bandanna around his head.

- Boo-hoo. Queer Eye Ted wasn't given that much air time. I look forward to his insightful comments. (Yeah, no Gail this week!) And Tom Colicchio is even better this season with the biting zingers.

- More Ted and Tom, less Padma, please.

Spice it up

Hey there. Usually I post much earlier, but the past few days have been a little crazy. We've updated a computer program here at the NJ and, unfortunately, all my files seemed to disappear into a black hole. Things got hairy when a long story I've been working on was MIA. This is not a good thing, as Martha would say. Especially when you're on deadline. All is well now thanks to Dave our fabulous "tech guy." Dave rocks.

So I missed this year's Fancy Food Show in New York. This is a huge show run by the National Association for the Specialty Food Trade where all the latest foods are unveiled. But the July issue of Specialty Food magazine has a few predications about what customers will be seeking out. Here goes:

- Flavors from India, Thailand and Vietnam are expected to gain strength and curiosity about foods like dosas are growing.

- Spiced chocolate - already big in Latin America - has more and more fans. So does the Japanese spice blend togarashi (Chinese chili, orange peel, seaweed, ginger, poppy seeds and sesame seeds) and yuzu, a Japanese citrus with high antioxidants.

- Look for more African spice blends such as raz el hanout and Middle Eastern flavors like sumac berry.

- "Black super foods" from Japan - black soy beans, black rice and black sesame biscuits - could find a home here because of their cholesterol-lowering and weight control benefits.

Here are the Top 10 "new" flavors:
1. Yuzu (pictured at the top )
2. Melegueta pepper (native to tropical West Africa and grows mainly in Ghana)
3. Berbere blend (chili pepper, ginger, cloves, coriander, allspice, rue berries and ajwain.)
4. Nigella
5. Strong pickled flavors
6. Dukkah (an Egyptian spice blend)
7. Garam-masala
8. Peri-peri (an African bird's-eye chili)
9. Spiced/Savory chocolate
10. Panch poron (a mix of whole spices typically cumin seeds, fennel seeds, mustard seeds, nigella seeds, and fenugreek seeds)

Denial is just a river....

Rachael Ray has been plagued recently by divorce rumors. The pint-size, 30 Minutes Meals mogul - whose husband John Cusimano is also pint-size - denials all to TV Guide.

News Journal photog Suchat Pederson and I visited Ray on the set of her TV talk show back in January and she was pretty lovey-dovey with the hubby then.

Sours are oh-so sweet

You can always count on NJ wine writer Roger Morris to introduce readers to an interesting beverage.

Check out his article today on Pisco sours.

Morris talked about doing a story on sours several months ago and was already way ahead of the curve. Then, the Wall Street Journal had a story in June and Pisco sours were featured in the July issue of Food & Wine. Sorry, Roger! We should have done the story sooner!

I'm going to order a Pisco sour this summer at the Back Porch cafe in Rehoboth. See my companion piece to Roger's story. Hopefully, it will be mixed by legendary bartender Bee Neild.

I've been seeing some intriguing riffs on sour cocktails. The bar at the W Hotel in New York serves a mean pomegranate sour.

I had a great margarita on the rocks recently at Harry's Seafood Grill. But I interrogated the poor bartender mercilessly before ordering. Didn't want no stinkin' syrupy-sweet mixer. Didn't want no rot-gut tequila. Put away the blender, please. I want a drink, not a Slurpee. Salt? Heck, yeah! Wait. Are you using fresh lime juice and Cointreau? If not, then I don't want your stinkin' drink. Tough beans if I sound mean. I want what I want. And after one sip, I gave him a really good tip.

What cocktail is worth sipping this summer? And where do we find it? Comment, comment, comment.

Is "fine dining" doomed?

Recent months have brought fewer and fewer openings of fine dining restaurants in this area -- Brandywine Prime is one of the rare exceptions. As a critic, it's become clear over the past two years or so that more restaurants are trying to balance upscale ingredients and approach with a more casual atmosphere, and simplified execution (for an example, read my latest review, of Fenwick Island's Catch54). I can see why so many restaurants are headed this way -- after all, especially since 9/11, we are now a society that favors less fussiness -- but I also fear that it will only open the door for lower standards, ultimately a bad thing for us gourmet-minded diners.
Some top chefs recently tackled this issue at Monday's Food & Wine Classic event in Aspen, Colo. According to the National Restaurant Association's report, here's what was said:

The future of fine food in America lies in more casual, user-friendly formats than what is offered in traditional fine-dining restaurants, according to restaurateurs and chef participants in this year’s Food & Wine Classic event.

“Fine fast,” was the term suggested by New York-based chef and television host Tom Colicchio (pictured) for the new genre, which he predicted would follow the fast-casual format and feature excellent ingredients.

Colicchio said that, although he believed fine dining was alive and well, “once you get over the glamour you realize that you can’t replicate it.” To expand as an operator, you need a more pared-down, streamlined format such as fast casual, he said.

“You take the best of fine dining and marry it with fast-casual qualities,” he said.

Salad and sausage, not a winner

It seemed like a good idea at the time.............

That's the way some of my cooking experiments turn out. Had a cookout and ended up with leftover grilled sausage, maybe about 3/4 pound. What to do with it? It was really good sausage - Italian with broccoli rabe, which I bought at the Country Butcher in Kennett Square, Pa. (By the way, that's a destination shopping spot, along with Talula's Table, also in Kennett.)

I went to my recipe binder - stuffed with clippings and handwritten recipes that I've collected over the years - and came across a "Basque salad" that sparked my interest. It's kind of a cold revision of paella, which seemed like a good dinner idea on a hot night. The salad is a combination of cooked rice, sausage and veggies with a Dijon mustard vinaigrette. I had leftover corn - cut from the cob - so I threw that in and also some leftover cooked lentils. Then I cut up red peppers and Vidalia onion and chopped some fresh herbs from the garden. I tossed it; thought it looked tasty and put it in the refrigerator.

But the salad, served cold, got a lukewarm response. Some thought the cold sausage tasted too greasy and marred the fresh taste of the veggies.

This salad is probably better served at room temperature. I think tasters also would have liked it better if I used either lentils or rice, not both, and subbed grilled shrimp instead of sausage.

Oh well, live and learn.

Where's the beef?

Ultimately, we're all benefitting from the burger wars raging now among fast food chains. The beef really is getting better (excluding McDonald's, of course). Occasionally, however, the feuding gets nasty -- witness the following dispute between the Jack in the Box and Carl's Jr. chain (neither of which we have here). Certified Angus, indeed:

Carl's Jr. parent CKE Restaurants Inc. has lost its bid to stop rival Jack In the Box from making Angus burgers the butt of TV ad jokes.

A federal judge said Monday that San Diego-based Jack in the Box could continue to air cheeky television commercials for its 100-percent sirloin burgers. Carpinteria, Calif.-based CKE had alleged that the spots deceived consumers into thinking that Angus beef comes from a cow's anus, and had asked for an injunction to stop their airing. Carl's Jr. and a sister CKE brand, Hardee's, both serve Angus burgers, as do McDonald's, Burger King and T.G.I. Friday's.

But U.S. District Judge Andrew Guilford rejected a consumer survey that CKE cited as proof of its contention, and said he required more evidence of harm.

"We're glad that common sense prevailed and that this motion was denied," Terri Graham, vice president and chief marketing officer for Jack in the Box, said in a statement. The release's headline stated that CKE was on the "losing end of beef."

CKE said it might try again to get an injunction. Another hearing is set for Aug. 20, but no trial date was scheduled.

Critics in disguise

Former New York Times dining critic Ruth Reichl often donned wigs and elaborate outfits to disguise herself when visiting Big Apple restaurants.

But Reichl's costumes were nothing compared to what The News Journal's critic-at-large Otto Dekom once did to stay incognito.

The retired writer, who died in 2004 in a Florida hospital at age 86, went in drag to dine at a Wilmington restaurant he was banned from. His model was a friend's mother.

Dekom was "often described as the man Delawareans loved to hate," according to News Journal files.

At the time of Dekom's death, former News Journal columnist Al Mascitti, who picked up the dining-critic fork after Dekom retired in 1983, said: "Everyone knew who he was. Otto Dekom made himself a household name."

Current critic Eric Ruth assumed the role in 1997.

Notoriously stingy with superlatives in his theater, music, art and restaurant reviews, Dekom had several persnickety pet peeves. Woe to the restaurateur who hired chatty, gum-snapping waitresses and served baked potatoes wrapped in aluminum foil or lukewarm soup. His pointed comments could slice deeper than a chef's knife. Few forgot - or forgave - his sharp and often barbed observations.

The late Wilmington restaurateur George Manis was so incensed after a stinging review, he banned the critic from his restaurants. That didn't deter Dekom. When he came to dine at Manis' latest eatery, the former Le Grand Tier on Market Street, Dekom dressed as a woman and ate there unnoticed.

"I remember the waiter came back to the kitchen and said, 'For an old lady, she eats like a horse,' " George's wife, Voula Manis, told The News Journal in 1994.

Dekom's disguise is particularly interesting in light of a pending lawsuit that involves Philadelphia Inquirer restaurant critic Craig LaBan that could reveal his identity. Ruth Reichl, queen of disguises, weighs in on her opinion in a recent NPR interview.

To serve man ribs

Hope you all had a happy Fourth. I spent part of the day at the Hockessin parade. Hadn't been to this old-fashioned parade on Old Lancaster Pike in years. Gee, nothing says the Fourth of July like having firefighters, D-List politicians (it's just not a parade if the NCC Sheriff or Register of Wills aren't there) and Boy Scouts pelt you with penny candy as they pass by.

For our indoor picnic, I made pork ribs - used a spice rub and roasted them in the oven at 400 degrees for about 1 1/2 hours as per the Everyday Food magazine recipe. (See July 2 post.) Then, I finished the ribs on the grill with slatherings of BBQ sauce. This technique worked out really well. Though, I appreciate the suggestion of one Second Helping reader who listed the Alton Brown recipe which uses a lower temperature. (See July 2 comments.) No one was complaining about my ribs, but I might try the Brown recipe next time. We drank MacMurray Ranch pinot noir from Sonoma. Good pairing!

Dessert was an American-style red, white and blue confection. I made sour cream pound cake - I used the recipe from the good, old reliable plaid Better Homes & Garden cookbook (buy this cookbook for a beginner cook; it's invaluable) - and topped slices with fresh strawberries, blueberries and whipped cream. Simple and delicious.

Instead of catching soggy fireworks - we flipped on the Twilight Zone marathon on the SciFi channel just in time to catch my all-time favorite episode: To Serve Man.

To quote Rod Serling, it's about "the evolution of man, the cycle of going from dust to dessert, the metamorphosis from being the ruler of a planet to an ingredient in someone's soup."

What a great day.

Ribs on the 4th of July

I'm firing up the (new) gas grill this Fourth of July and pork ribs are the menu.

In the past, I've followed a recipe from grilling guru Steven Raichlen. The ribs are really good. But I'm thinking about trying a grilled ribs recipe that's in the July/August issue of Everyday Food magazine. The name is a bit misleading. Basically, you roast the ribs first in the oven at 400 degrees (well wrapped in aluminum foil) for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours and then finish them on the grill.

Is it cheating? Hmmm, well, .....OK, so maybe it is. But I've heard that some people BOIL ribs first and then barbecue. I don't like the sound of that method. Doesn't the meat become too tough? (Anyone try this before? Is it better?)

What are you grilling on the Fourth?

Gourmet pizza

Half Full is a really cool, hip, little - and I do mean little - pizza place in Lewes. The space at 113 Market St.; 645-8877; is only 500 square feet. (Some may remember it as the old Splish Splash soap shop - it's right behind King's Ice Cream.) They serve personal pizzas - oval shaped pies 8-by-12-inches - beer and wine. Desserts are cookies or brownies.

A full review is coming soon, but if you're beaching it this week, it's worth a stop. The eatery opens at 4 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. Get there early. Seats fill up fast.