Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Top Chef? Someone begs to differ (see new updates)

Really interesting email from Jim Berman, culinary arts instructor at Delcastle Technical High School. It seems Jim wasn't impressed with "Top Chef" winner Ilan Hall's cooking demonstration at last Saturday's 22nd annual Kennett Square (Pa.) Mushroom Festival. Hall took home the top toque award on season two of the Bravo TV reality series.

I'll just let Jim's email speak for itself. (Thanks Jim, for giving me permission to run the letter and photograph.)

Patty,
I brought along some of my culinary students (from Delcastle –woo hoo!!) and we took in the Ilan demonstration/snooze session from the front row. My students were pumped to see an honest to goodness TV chef/superstar conducting a demo.
Well, we got to see him; I’m not so sure about the superstar part.
He arrived late.....He explained that he was going to roast some maitake/hen of the woods mushrooms as they did at Craft in NYC. Coming from Tom Colicchio’s flagship establishment in the culinary heart of America, I thought we were going to see some sparks.

Well, he proceeded to waaaaay overheat the griddle/planche and burn those gorgeous fungi after, moments earlier, explaining that you can not really burn mushrooms. As he restarted, he went on to make a sauce Romescu, [a Catalan dipping sauce.] He pureed canned red peppers with some marcona almonds, sherry and a drizzle of olive oil. After doing so, he explained that he could “see” there was not enough salt. Say that again?

Anyhow, the 40 minute demo ended with an oversized platter of lifeless mushrooms with a red glob of canned red pepper puree. Hmmmmmm.
He posed for a picture with my crew (and 2 of my own from the home team) and suggested that they are put their fingers in their bellybuttons for the picture. I think he overdosed on mushroom fumes, or something.

Anyhow, my students and I toured the mushroom-growing display that had a bounty of specimens in various stages of growth. Infinitely more interesting than Top Chef.

All the best,
Jim Berman
(Culinary Arts Instructor at Delcastle Tech. High School)
***UPDATE: I just spoke to JoBeth Thompson, the mushroom festival's culinary chairman. She said Hall was about 15 minutes late to his standing room only cooking demo. He drove to the festival that morning from his New York home and "wasn't sure where he was going. It was all new to him." She said Hall did burn one batch of mushrooms but then cooked another batch. Thompson was sorry that Berman was disappointed. "I guess he was expecting more from him," Thompson said, explaining that [Hall] is "25 years old and he's been traveling a lot." Thompson said didn't hear the belly button comment and said that Hall was pleasant and polite Saturday and at his Sunday appearance. "I would ask him back again next year."
****UPDATE 2: JoBeth Thompson just called me and said she wanted readers to know Hall is "a really nice guy." She said Hall won a complete Kenmore kitchen as one of his Top Chef prizes and the chef told her that he was planning on donating the kitchen to an orphanage.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

I am one of Chef Berman's junior culinary arts students and would have to agree with chef even though he didn't no where he was i still expected more from a person who won top chef. I don't know what they look for on that t.v. show anymore hey if he could do it it why couldn't I its worth a shot.

Anonymous said...

I knew somebody from the mushroom festival would have to respond. I wasn't "expecting more," rather I was expecting anything that went beyond the pales, that was worthy of TV fame. There is little wonder that FoodTV and the like have provided to be an ilk to our industry versus the boon that you would expect from the meteoric rise of TV chef-dom.
Please believe me, my students and I had no intention of going up there to find fault with his presentation. Quite the contrary. Up and coming culinary students have hungry minds (no pun intended) to absorb as much as they can. Rather, we were taken to an ill-prepared snooze fest.
By the way...Ms. Thompson, my students are "nice guys [and gals]" too; they provided over 1,000 volunteer service hours to the community last year. But I don't think I would give them a stage on which to cook. Well, not yet, anyhow. And I know, when their time comes, they will deliver. -Jim Berman

P.S. And I think Shawn (see his response) will be the first to take the stage!

Anonymous said...

"Chef" Jim, you're an idiot. Leave the kid alone. He is obviously a capable chef, he proved that by winning a huge competition. He has nothing to prove to you or your students. In fact, im sure that any one of your students would love to be in his shoes someday. Who wouldnt. To be great at what you do and to be nationally recognized for it. Good for him.

I was at the performance the other day and I thought it was just fine for what it was. It wasnt a giant nationally broadcasted event. It was a small demonstration for a few people. I thought it was a shame that the entire tent was standing room only before it started, and about ten minutes in half the place had cleared out. Mostly people there just to see a "celebrity", and obviously not interested in the cooking demonstration.

If you want to blame anyone for the performance being sub-par, blame whoever organized it. They didnt have a wireless microphone on him which made it impossible for him to get comfortable.

The demo was great, and you know what, it cost $2 to watch. So stop complaining and acting like you're Gods gift to the kitchen. Perhaps you're just jealous that you will never be a Top Chef.

Anonymous said...

Cool! Another 'reaction.' First off, I do not think calling somebody an "idiot" that you know nothing about is wise. Secondly, I do not think you read a complaint. Rather, I think you read insight about the event. Because the event only cost $2, the expectations of a professional chef's demonstration should be lowered? So, in that spirit, the lower priced lunch menu at a restaurant should lack the quality of the premium priced dinner menu? Are all negative reviews of restaurants complaints? Lastly, there is certainly NO commentary that even suggests that I am "God's gift to the kitchen." Jealousy over being Top Chef is exactly the opposite of what you read. But, perhaps, I am not the less wise between you and I.
-Jim (I sign my letters!)

P.S. If there is a doubt as to my quality as a cook, drop me a line and you can stop over at my kitchen. Until then, choose your words a bit more cautiously.

Anonymous said...

You are correct sir, name calling was out of line.

But lets face it, the show was not that bad. Not as bad as you made it out to be. And certainly not worthy of causing anybody to go out of their way to send a complaint to the paper.

Unless you just really want to see your name published. Which is exactly why I wont sign mine.

But again, no harm intended.

Patricia Talorico said...

I feel I need to step in. In a previous post (go back to the September archives), I asked Second Helpings readers if anyone had seen Ilan Hall's cooking demo. I wanted to go to the Kennett Square Mushroom Festival, but never made it there. Jim Berman sent me an email. He is a respected culinary instructor and shared his opinion on the demonstration. I found it very interesting. I asked Jim if I could post his email, which was sent to me, not the Second Helpings blog, on this web site. He graciously agreed.

I don't feel Jim went " out of his way to send a complaint" to the newspaper. And I don't believe, for one minute, his remarks are about seeing his name published.

This is a forum where names aren't required on comments. But, I must say, as a longtime journalist, it does add more weight to an argument, or to criticism, when someone is brave enough to use their name. I will always applaud it. Eric Ruth and I use our names on all restaurant reviews.

I welcome and appreciate all your comments. That's what keeps us going and will hopefully increase the Second Helpings readership. At the same time, food is supposed to make everyone happy. So, please, dear readers, play nice.
Thanks. Gotta go! Top Chef is coming on!