If you're like me, calories are the last thing I'm fretting about when I eat high-end food (for real consternation, see my face when they plop down that black folder with the check in it). Such food is by definition an indulgence (calorically and financially); to suddenly allow dietetic concerns to intrude defeats the whole purpose of fine dining, IMHO.

Still, it was fascinating to see the New York magazine article that assessed the caloric content of a nine-course, $250 meal at what may be the nation's best restaurant (and least practical weight-loss regimen), Per Se. The bad news? You're chowing down a good bit of your daily caloric intake, just for lunch. The good news? You can enjoy a torchon of foie gras with less guilt than a Big Mac would bring.