Taken with Tinto

The June issue of Food & Wine magazine includes an article about the Philadelphia dining scene.
Two years ago, editor Dana Cowin called Philadelphia "a boring food city."
She changed her mind (somewhat) after a recent visit, though there are still a few points in the article to debate.
But I do agree with Cowin that a new generation of young chefs is making Philly an exciting dining destination.
Jose Garces is one of them. His Tinto wine bar (Tinto is Spanish for red wine) is such a vibrant place that I suggest you make a reservation pronto (114 S. 20th St., 215-665-9150. Garces' passion for northern Spanish Basque country cuisine has translated into this rustic, small plates restaurant. It's not a place to take the kids- it's a small, cozy spot with only about 40 seats. There are high tables and seats - like a bar - and an open kitchen. A downstairs room does accommodate larger parties, but it's so much more fun to sit upstairs. The menu has pintxos, which are tapas, brochetas (skewered dishes), bocadillos (little sandwiches) and montaditos (a Spanish type of bruschetta). Each person usually gets 3 or 4 plates, which can run between $4 to $14 each.
What did I love? Geez, what didn't I?
Get a glass (or pitcher) of the sangria and definitely order the lamb loin, eggplant and bacon ($12) that's skewered and served inside a shot glass with sherry jus. Oh, and there's the pork belly, honey laquer and shaved green apples ($8) on top of crusty bread. I couldn't get enough of the serrano ham-wrapped figs ($5) and our server steered us toward the duck confit, black cherry, bleu de basque spread ($10.) I could go on and on and I will in an upcoming 55 Hours story in June.
Jose was in the house and he stopped by our table for a chat. Next on his plate - a Mexican restaurant in West Philly, probably opening in January 2008, and a restaurant in his Chicago hometown.
I can't wait.