Thursday, May 31, 2007

Reader mail


Fridays tend to get a little crazy for me - deadlines, deadlines, deadlines - so reader mail is once again being posted a little early. Got a dining question? Email it in or add it to the comments and we'll try to answer your queries. Keep the questions coming. I'll try to answer some this Friday, or post next week.


QUESTION: Patricia & Eric, one of my favorite restaurants in Wilmington (before it closed) was L'Osteria, which was located off Philadelphia Pike. They had the best, freshest pasta I've ever had. Can you tell me if the chef/owner has opened another place around here? Thanks, Dave.


ANSWER: Anthony Stella opened his Penny Hill restaurant L'Osteria Cucina Italiana in May 1995 to preserve his Italian upbringing and offer patrons a taste of the authentic dishes taught to him by his grandmother in Italy. He earned local and national accolades for his food, especially his famous gnocchi. Public TV cook Mary Ann Esposito became a pal. Stella hosted dinners for the celebrity cookbook author in his restaurant, and he appeared on an episode of her TV show, "Ciao Italia." But Stella hung up his apron in Dec. 2004. "The business is just not there. I just haven't had enough business to support the place," he told The News Journal at the time. Later, Stella worked briefly at Union City Grille in Wilmington. Stella occasionally emails me recipes that he has created, but I haven’t heard from him lately.
Anthony, if you’re reading this, let us know if you’re planning a comeback!

QUESTION: My boyfriend and I had dinner in Lewes last night at one of the new restaurants in town and it was such a disappointment we don’t plan to return. The server was inexperienced, unfamiliar with the menu, and couldn’t even open a bottle of wine. She had to bring the bartender to the table to handle the task. The food was uneven at best. Here is my dilemma- we would really like to see this place succeed but, unless drastic changes are made soon, they are doomed to fail. Would it be appropriate to call the owner and inform him/ her of our experience? Is there a proper way to handle this? We don’t want to criticize just to complain- we really want it to be good. Would you just drop it and not go back or should we call?
ANSWER: Most diners would write off a restaurant after one disappointing experience. New York restaurateur Danny Meyer once said that he wished customers would share their concerns with a manager while they are STILL at the restaurant so the staff could quickly make amends. But, being on the other end of the table, I know that sometimes it can create an uncomfortable situation, especially if you, the diner, are irritated. However, I don’t think it would be inappropriate at all to call the owner - or write a letter - and very calmly and rationally explain why you were so disappointed, especially since you want the restaurant to succeed. Try to give as much information as possible - such as the date of your visit and what exactly you didn’t like. If the owner cares about the business, they should appreciate the feedback.

Restaurateurs, readers - what do you think??

Sushi saga

Disappointment is a common occurrence for a dining critic. You get all psyched for a meal, only to be let down.
It happened recently at Niwano Hana, a Japanese restaurant at 3602 Kirkwood Highway. (Some may remember it as the site where Mikasa had been.)
The atmosphere is cute and clean - no fishy smell at all, which, unfortunately, is not always the case at some sushi restaurants. I thought I was in for a real treat.
But the sushi was lackluster and didn’t seem all that fresh to me, an immediate appetite killer. A hot salmon soup I ordered had a lot of bones in the broth - choking to death in a sushi house seems so “Six Feet Under” - as well as a fish tail. The restaurant had advertisement cards on the tables for sparkling sake, but when I tried to order a glass, they didn’t have any in house. I wasn’t crazy about the shumai, which tasted pasty and flavorless. The saving grace was the salads - they were really good, especially the sesame dressing.
Right now, I’m not eager for a return visit.

Wednesday, May 30, 2007

Planet Ruth

I've always admired the writing style of Ruth Reichl, editor of Gourmet magazine.
But sometimes I think she lives on Planet Ruth. Take this entry from the recent Gourmet Editors Choptalk blog:

"Which hotel you choose can completely alter your impression of a city. After three nights in Le Grand, I was in love with Rome. How could I know that the hotel had turned my head? It was so splendid that I imagined I was staying in a palace. The room was large and gloriously ornate with a vast marble bathroom and an adjacent dressing room. Our (gorgeous) butler was constantly showing up with little treats and asking if we wanted anything pressed. She even woke us up with coffee in bed. A pianist was always playing right beneath the huge chandelier in the lobby, and the breakfast was enough to last you the entire day. I wanted to move in."

Bells and whistles immediately when off as soon as she mentioned a "butler." What Ruth doesn't say is that a standard room at Le Grand costs at least, at least!, 530 Euros a night. That translates to $711 in U.S. coin. She also doesn't say whether she - or Gourmet - was footing the bill.

Festival fun


Hi gang.

Hope you had a great Memorial Day weekend.


Festival season is about to get underway here in Delaware. We loooovvee our festivals, don't we?


The Greek Festival at the Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church, 808 N. Broom St., Wilmington kicks off next Tuesday, June 5 through June 8. Then, the Italian Festival at St. Anthony of Padua Catholic Church begins its weeklong celebration on Sunday, June 10.


I'm a fan of the pastries and the lamb gyro sandwich at the Greek Festival. And we usually go downstairs in the church and sample the pastitsio or moussaka. At the Italian festival, a group of my family and friends always meets on a Sunday afternoon in the little cafe where they play Italian-style music (near the church.) We always get smelts and the roasted pork sandwiches with garlicky greens - my brother-in-law usually makes a run for the spaghetti, ravioli and meatball dinners served in the church hall - and then we follow it up with confections, usually cannolis. This year, a guy is bringing in a replica of the Trevi Fountain. I'll have a story about it next week in 55 Hours. This I have to see. I really hope it's not like the Stonehedge replica in Spinal Tap.

What foods are you looking forward to eating in the next few weeks as the carnival and festival season begins? Comment below.

I know some people love the Panzarotti sandwich at the Italian festival...

Friday, May 25, 2007

Woodside Farm's ice cream is "hot"





Local, local, local is the big buzz word in gastronomic circles nowadays.

In Delaware, you can't get any more local than the ice cream produced by Woodside Farms Creamery near Hockessin. Seriously, if you haven't headed out to the farm to get a scoop or two or three of this high butterfat, preminum and super tasty Delaware ice cream, you've been missing out. (The city gal in me also likes that you can see the cows that provide the milk for the ice cream.)

Check out my review today on Sweet Lucy's, an old-fashioned ice cream parlor on Concord Pike, which is now selling at least 30 different flavors of Woodside Farm ice cream. (That's owner Ted Brackin on the left.)
Or if you're in Sussex County, head to Chip Hearn's Ice Cream Store on Rehoboth Avenue and the Boardwalk in Rehoboth Beach. Chip also sells Woodside Farm ice cream. Chip, in the photo on the right, is a crazy, mad scientist of ice cream and I mean that in the best possible way. He's always dreaming up some new wacky flavor. This summer, he's working on a pomegranate chip flavor, a flavor that will incorporate those little marshmallows found in Lucky Charms cereal and a butter pecan that he says will knock your socks off.
I don't doubt it.

A serving of skewerings

It's a sad fact of human nature -- people love to read nasty restaurant reviews (excepting the chefs and owners, of course). Here are a few from a recent book titled Skewered! The Rudest Food Reviews, compiled by Michelle Lovric (Chicago Review, $12.95):

"Olicia may be the worst name ever invented for a restaurant. It sounds like a fat substitute or a Macedonian compact car.''

"[My wife] Susan had a 'litely dusted chicken filet,' leading her to suggest that the only dusting it received was to remove shelf dirt.''

"The coffee tastes like water that has been squeezed out of a wet sleeve"

"I had chosen the cotes d'agneau ... They had been cut from a tired Alpine billy goat and seared in machine oil, and the haricots verts with which they were served resembled decomposed whiskers from a theatrical-costome beard."


Ouch.

Thursday, May 24, 2007

Reader mail


Is everyone but me off on Friday? OK, I'll jump-start the long holiday weekend by posting letters from the mailbag a little earlier. You ask, we answer. Keep the letters coming.


QUESTION: I would like a recommendation for lunch for 3 ladies celebrating birthdays in the Dover area. Thank you.

ANSWER: Thanks for email. Eric Ruth suggests Cool Springs Fish Bar, 2463 S. State St., Dover, 698-1955. He says: “It’s perhaps appropriate that one of Dover’s best restaurants is at a countryesque crossroads, far from the chain restaurant mayhem of Du Pont Highway.Why it's worth the wander: Inventive, fresh and well-prepared seafood in a modern setting.Eric says that he’s also hearing good things about 33 West, 33 W Loockerman St.; 735-9822, but hasn’t yet had the chance to visit the restaurant.


QUESTION: Just a fan note to let you both know how very much I enjoy and appreciate your 'Second Helpings' web site...it’s so fun and informative...please keep it up, OK? Doug Horne, Chadds Ford, Pa.

ANSWER: Aw, shucks, thanks for the kind words, Doug. How much do we owe you? Kidding, kidding. We really appreciate the note. We’re having so much fun with Second Helpings. (Hey boss, did you see Doug’s note? Aren’t we up for raises soon?)

Top Chef returns



I tried to watch the "American Idol" finale last night, but found it so boring - did anyone else think Bette Midler sounded weirdly off-key? - that I went into the kitchen and began making chili.

Chopping and cooking instantly makes me happy. While the pot was bubbling away, I switched on the Bravo TV hair-cutting competition program "Shear Genius" - my name is Patricia and, yes, I am a reality TV show junkie - and saw an upcoming promo for Top Chef: Season 3 Miami.

Top Chef! Top Chef! Top Chef!

Now, you're talking, baby.

OK, so aspects of "Top Chef" last season bummed me out - didn't care one iota for the frat-boy hazing of Marcel, the annoying little guy who looks like Astro Boy - but I think I've found the strength to forgive the producers because this series is so darn entertaining.

On June 6 at 10 p.m., there's a "grudge match" between the Season 1 and Season 2 All-Stars. (Steven! LeeAnne! Ilan! Marcel!)

Then, the new season begins June 13.

I think I may blog every Thursday about the previous night's Top Chef episode - and get your reactions.

Second Helpings readers, what do you think? Anyone interested in Top Chef?


Fat isn't so phat






I had a Fat Bastard last night.

The wine, people, the wine.

It was the new Fat Bastard rosé, made from 100 percent Shiraz. The dry wine is as pink as cotton candy and has a minerally taste. I was expecting more aroma - the press release promised "intense aromas" - but I detected only faint hints of maybe raspberry. (Maybe my sniffer is off - it is pollen season in Delaware.)

It wouldn't be my first choice for a rose - I found it a little flabby (that Fat Bastard!) and I think I like the name more than the wine.
But, it is an easy drinking, affordable $10.99 wine. Serve it chilled or throw in a few ice cubes.

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

New York Times "discovers" Marc Vetri

I adore New York. Really I do. It's probably my favorite eating city in the world (though London and Rome are near and dear to my heart.)
But I get so tired, and bored, with the arrogance of the New York culinary press. Take the story by Frank Bruni in today's New York Times on Philadelphia chef Marc Vetri.
Marc is one of Philly's treasures, a chef who's truly dedicated to his craft. Mr. Bruni knows that so he hopped the train - or maybe drove? - from the Big Apple to visit the City of Brotherly Love. He dined at Marc's first restaurant, Vetri, and at his new place, Osteria.
Bruni gave big hugs to Vetri and thought Osteria needed work.
And that's fine. Everyone's entitled to their opinion. (For the record, I had a wonderful experience at Osteria. It's a restaurant I want to visit often.)
But I almost tossed aside the article when Bruni wrote "Vetri ranks with the very best Italian restaurants in New York. "
Got that all you hayseeds who don't live in Manhattan??
Pleeeeassse. There is life - and many outstanding restaurants - outside of New York.

Taken with Tinto

The June issue of Food & Wine magazine includes an article about the Philadelphia dining scene.
Two years ago, editor Dana Cowin called Philadelphia "a boring food city."
She changed her mind (somewhat) after a recent visit, though there are still a few points in the article to debate.
But I do agree with Cowin that a new generation of young chefs is making Philly an exciting dining destination.
Jose Garces is one of them. His Tinto wine bar (Tinto is Spanish for red wine) is such a vibrant place that I suggest you make a reservation pronto (114 S. 20th St., 215-665-9150. Garces' passion for northern Spanish Basque country cuisine has translated into this rustic, small plates restaurant. It's not a place to take the kids- it's a small, cozy spot with only about 40 seats. There are high tables and seats - like a bar - and an open kitchen. A downstairs room does accommodate larger parties, but it's so much more fun to sit upstairs. The menu has pintxos, which are tapas, brochetas (skewered dishes), bocadillos (little sandwiches) and montaditos (a Spanish type of bruschetta). Each person usually gets 3 or 4 plates, which can run between $4 to $14 each.
What did I love? Geez, what didn't I?
Get a glass (or pitcher) of the sangria and definitely order the lamb loin, eggplant and bacon ($12) that's skewered and served inside a shot glass with sherry jus. Oh, and there's the pork belly, honey laquer and shaved green apples ($8) on top of crusty bread. I couldn't get enough of the serrano ham-wrapped figs ($5) and our server steered us toward the duck confit, black cherry, bleu de basque spread ($10.) I could go on and on and I will in an upcoming 55 Hours story in June.
Jose was in the house and he stopped by our table for a chat. Next on his plate - a Mexican restaurant in West Philly, probably opening in January 2008, and a restaurant in his Chicago hometown.
I can't wait.

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Cherries are cheery but they ain't cheap


I should have used the scale. It was right there in front of my face, but I just didn't think I needed it.

While shopping for produce at Acme market, I spied some beautiful ruby red cherries. I love cherries. When I was a kid, we had a cherry tree in our backyard. Trying to pick the cherries before the birds gobbled them down was always a family sport.

So, feeling very nostalgic for my childhood at Acme, I grabbed the cherries - priced $3.99 a pound. Pricey, yes, but I thought I had less than a pound. Then, I got to the cashier and had to fork over nearly $8 for cherries.

Man, happy memories can be costly.
Woo-hoo! I just got the Fat Bastard rose. (See May 17 post.) I'll let you know Thursday how it tastes.

Tonight, I'm heading to Tinto restaurant, 114 S. 20th St.; 215-665-9150, in Philly for dinner. This is Jose Garces's second restaurant. (He also owns Amada, the Spanish tapas bar.) It should be interesting. Tinto is a wine bar based on Basque country cooking. I'm a huge fan of Jose's - super guy, super chef - so I'll give you quick highlights on Wednesday. More in an upcoming 55 Hours story in June.

Locally, Costa Dimas, owner of Costa's Grill & Wine Bar, is opening his second downtown Wilmington restaurant today. It's called the Exchange and is in the bottom floor of the old Delaware Trust building on Market Street between Ninth and 10th streets. It's open for lunch, dinner and has a late night menu.

Menu features “upscale comfort food,” with such offerings as barbecue ribs, spaghetti with fresh basil and tomatoes, steak au poivre, tuna burgers with wasabi mayonnaise and Cuban paninis. Appetizers, such as sweet and sour chicken, crispy noodles and lettuce wraps, and poblano nachos with chicken, jack cheese and guacamole, will run between $7 to $9. Dinner entrees are between $11 to $22.

Monday, May 21, 2007

A Rae of Light


So I dropped in Rae in Philly on Friday night and it wasn't a case of the emperor's new clothes - we really enjoyed the restaurant, which Philadelphia magazine has called the city's best new restaurant. It's on the bottom floor of the Cira Centre building right next to 30th Street Station. (Take I-76 west and exit 345 for 30th Street station.)


We had glasses of sparkling rose and the smoked rabbit nachoes -really more like empanadas - and the risotto "fingers." The fingers look like mozzarella sticks, but are actually deep fried and very creamy risotto served with an addictive truffle cream dipping sauce. If we didn't have later reservations at Amada, the Spanish tapas bar at Second and Chestnut streets, I could have stayed there all night. If you go to Rae, sit in the lounge area. It has a beautiful view of the city. And this is a real bonus - the valet parking is FREE! FREE! Gotta love that in Philadelphia, especially since the valet parking at Amada in Old City was $17.


Saturday I was in Atlantic City and I just don't get the appeal. I'm not a big gambler though. We walked around the boardwalk, stopped in Bally's and a few other casinos - but, well, I'm not eager to go back. The Borgata is probably the nicest place - but it's so far away from the other casinos. Bobby Flay's Steakhouse in the Borgata is a very good - though pricey - eatery.

Friday, May 18, 2007

Adventures in Philly dining


Heading to the City of Brotherly Love for a night of noshing. (A Philly dining story is coming in June. Really.)


I just got off the phone with Daniel Stern who owns Gayle restaurant in Queen Village and his new hip eatery Rae in University City. It's near 30th Street station in the city's Cira Centre building.


Daniel is a very cool guy and he puts innovative twists on classic dishes. I admired his cooking a few years back when he was at Le Bec-Fin and recently fell hopelessly in love with his smoked rabbit nachoes when he was a guest chef at the Meals from the Masters Celebrity Chefs brunch last month at the Bank of America building. (Yep, rabbit, as in bunny rabbit. Don't knock it 'till you tried it.)


We've got late reservations at Amada, chef Jose Garces's excellent Spanish tapas restaurant in Old City that I've been to several times. (Some friends are dying to check it out. ) But first, I'm herding the gang to Rae for a quick bite of rabbit nachoes or maybe the risotto fingers....

Thursday, May 17, 2007

Life after the restaurant industry

Remember this guy?
Former Wilmington chef/restaurateur Tobias Lawry has apparently traded in his white chef's jacket for a blue blazer. Lawry, who once owned Restaurant 821 and the short-lived Vault steakhouse in downtown Wilmington, left the First State in Dec. 2004 and moved to Laguna Beach, Calif.
At the time, Lawry would not comment about his future plans.
"I've got a bunch of different pokers in the fire," Lawry told The News Journal, adding he would take some time off but would remain in the restaurant industry.

"It's my heart and soul. In this industry, it's not just your profession, it's your life."

Hmmm, maybe not so much anymore.
Now, his life is selling $3 million plus beach estates. Check out his web site.
Funny, no mention of his culinary background. Or Delaware.

What's in a name?

I try not to let labels sway me when I'm looking for wine.
But sometimes I can't help myself.
Roses are my favorite summer wines. (Please, don't confuse these pink drinks with sugary white zinfandel or the Boones Farm Tickle Pink rot gut of your youth.) A beautifully chilled rose can be robust and bone-dry, especially a Tavel rose, which is why it's perfect with garlic and olive oil heavy southern French dishes.
I recently tried Francis Ford Coppola's 2006 Sofia Pinot Noir rose simply because my favorite 4-year-old is named Sophie. Very pretty bottle and the wine, about $16, is soft and as aromatic as a sun-warmed strawberry field.
I just got a press release for Fat Bastard rose. Shills say that the wine, made from 100 percent Shiraz, "pairs well with spicy barbeque favorites or crisp salads."
OK, I'll try it. But the real reason why I'm going to sample this $10.99 wine is that I simply want to see the reaction when I begin pouring:

"Fat Bastard? Who wants a Fat Bastard?"

Maturity has never been my strong suit.

Everyone's a critic now

As a restaurant critic, I try to be fair, informative, and have some fun. As a lover of food, I've also always viewed restaurant criticism with a good dose of caution. Reviews can be helpful to diners, and ultimately even the restaurants, but by their very nature they are also imperfect products, mainly because the reviewer, no matter how fair-minded and well-versed, ultimately brings only one perspective to light. With the Internet, that's changing. A recent article on MarketWatch looks at how the Web has allowed everyone to weigh in on dining experiences, and how the broader community of food lovers are finding ways to connect and communicate. It's a great thing for democraticizing the review process, and ultimately will also be a great thing for diners -- as the weight of public perspective becomes more visible and influential with restaurateurs, they will respond (if they are wise) by making their products even better. That's a fine thing for us all.

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

The Potty Patrol

I've always believed that the only thing worse than having a bunch of 16-year-olds prepare your lunch is having a bunch of 16-year-olds clean your bathroom. Hell, most of them wouldn't know a toilet brush from a spatula. So we consider the following survey of fast food restrooms with some hesitation, realizing that cleanliness is a relative concept, and that the "cleanest" commodes probably are still no paragons of sterility. That said, it's no surprise that this study by Corporate Research International found that Sonic, one of the top-notch players in this field, has the most tinkle-free toilets.

Complete Rankings for Fast Food Restroom Cleanliness

1. Sonic
2. Subway
3. Arby's
4. Dunkin' Donuts
5. Dairy Queen
6. Wendy's
7. Boston Market
8. Quizno's
9. Schlotzsky's
10. Burger King
11. Long John Silver's
12. KFC
13. A&W
14. Captain D's
15. Hardee's
16. Taco Bell
17. Carl's Jr
18. Chipotle Mexican Grill
19. McDonald's
20. White Castle

Testing your patience at P.F. Chang's

Last night, I checked out P.F. Chang's China Bistro in Glen Mills, Pa. Never been to this chain before, though others have raved about it, so I wanted to see what all the fuss was about.
We got a bunch of "little plates"- Sichuan asparagus; chicken lettuce wraps, salt and pepper calamari and Ahi tuna. All pretty good, especially the spicy asparagus. But the service..... oh, the service. (More on that later.)
The place was packed - on a Tuesday!- so we had to wait at the crowded bar for about 15 mins. We looked over the menus and decided to get a cold sake. The bartender came over, asked our names, shook our hands and then took the drink orders. Unexpected - the hand shake and the get-acquainted session - but nice just the same.
Drinks came quickly and were just settling in when our table was ready.
We should have stayed at the bar with that friendly drink slinger who knew our names.
We sat for 20 mins. ( I timed it) without water or anyone noticing us or pretending they didn't notice us. I finally got up and asked the hostess what the deal was. She was flustered and then flagged a server, who said she was waiting on a large party and "didn't see us."
I don't buy that - Chang's is a pretty open dining room - and she was also waiting on the table next to us.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, this kind of treatment is why people get turned off of restaurants.
For the most part, I'm a patient person. I used to be a waitress. I understand getting slammed and being "in the weeds" but this is where a manager needs to step in and smooth things over.
Our server tried to make amends but we just didn't want to hear the excuses, especially after a table seated after us were well into entrees when we were still getting water.
We weren't mean or nasty, but at the end of the night, I didn't tip my usual 20 plus (or more) percent.
It was more like 15 percent.

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Service with a smile and a gun











Customers are sometimes bad tippers - and sometimes they are just, well, really, really weird and scary. Here's the wacky waitress story of the day:


A server at one of Phil Spector's favorite restaurants, testified today, that in 1997 or 1998 she and another waitress who had become friends with Spector took pizza and wine to his home and spent the night there in separate rooms. (Geez, what kind of customer service policy does this restaurant have???)
The server testified that Spector later walked them to a car with a gun - and looked like the cartoon character Elmer Fudd when he came downstairs with the weapon while wearing plaid.

Monday, May 14, 2007

Reader mail


QUESTION: Has anyone done a review on Red Square restaurant on Rehoboth Avenue? My friends and I want to go next week. I have walked by this place for 4 years and I never see anyone dining inside so I am not sure I want to go for dinner or just caviar appetizers? Any information you have would be helpful. Thanks. Best regards, Connie


ANSWER: I'm with you, Connie; it always seems as if everyone is looking into the windows, but no one is ever eating there. How Red Square, 162 Rehoboth Ave, Rehoboth, 226-7782, stays in business is one of the great mysteries of Rehoboth Beach. My advice - just get caviar. Red Square is mostly a "cold" kitchen. I'm not a big fan of their offerings other than the caviar service, which during a visit last year, was very fresh. (We got sevruga and osetra.) They also a large selection of vodkas.



The results (*burrrp*) are in ...

Rating fast food restaurants can strike snooty foodies as a pointless exercise -- sort of like having a poll to decide which mass murderer has the best hair style. I'm not so dismissive about all fast food -- sure, it's junk, but if you're one of those people who actually work for a living, and have kids to tend to, it can pay keeping a critical eye out for relatively tasty options. Well, the lofty-minded Zagat guide, usually a haven for more refined ideals of eating, has just released its fast-food survey, done in conjunction with (?) "The Today Show." In it, we discover that people may actually have taste buds after all -- the consistently execrable McDonald's is rated below Wendy's and Burger King; upscale sandwich shop Panera Bread was judged best fast food overall; and Outback (a decent value, IMHO) took honors as best full-service chain. In what may get my award for Greatest Irony Ever, however, the participants actually had the nerve to say that their No. 2 concern in fast food dining is nutrition.

Huh?

“After a few beers, you can’t really tell the difference"

I like to think of myself as an adventurous eater. Give me liver, feed me raw oysters, serve me another helping of that cattle thymus gland, please. I'd even venture to say that I'd be willing to try the following delicacy -- but please, for the love of all that's holy, just hand me the plate and don't tell me what it is ...

ELDERON, Wis. (AP) — Around here, it may be tough to pass up anything deep-fried.

Wisconsinites have deep-fried cheese curds, candy bars and Twinkies. They now have deep-fried livestock testicles, too.

More than 300 people paid $5 for all-you-can-eat goat, lamb and bull testicles Saturday at the ninth annual Testicle Festival at Mama’s Place Bar and Grill in Elderon in central Wisconsin.

“Once you get over the mental (aspect) of what you’re eating, it’s just like eating any other food, and it tastes good,” Buster Hoffman said.

Festival founder Nancy Fenske said the festival grew out of her late husband Roger’s birthday party 12 years ago. They decided to have “a nut fry” at Mama’s Place after bringing back lamb fries from a trip to Montana.

The event grew every year and now they fry up to 100 pounds of testicles, she said.

“What else can you do in a small town?” Fenske said.

Butch Joubert, 58, likes the parts sandwiched between bread with tartar sauce. They’re not so different from regular meatballs also served at the festival, he said.

“After a few beers, you can’t really tell the difference,” Joubert said.

Thursday, May 10, 2007

Cheeburger, cheeburger

I won’t be blogging Friday. (No, not time off for good behavior - I gotta work Saturday. If you see me strolling the grounds of the Flower Market, say hey. I'll be stocking up on Flower Market mustard.)
I have a review in Friday's 55 Hours on Cheeburger, Cheeburger, 95 Wilmington-West Chester Pike (U.S. 202), near Glen Mills, Pa.; (610) 558-5880. Sorry, can’t link the review just yet; it hasn’t been posted on our Web site.
Long story short: This would be my one of my first stops to sit and chow down on a burger, onion rings and chocolate banana shake. The staff is very young - don't mention the old Belushi SNL skit, no one will know what you're talking about - but sweet and hard-working.
U.S. 202 is becoming the Burger Super Highway.
There’s a Jake’s, a Five Guys, Charcoal Pit and Cheeburger, Cheeburger.
Want a hot dog while traveling on that same road? Go to Jimmy John's, 1507 Wilmington-West Chester Pike, near West Chester, Pa., (610) 459-3083.

Here's the story of a lovely cafe...


The Retro Café, 12 Wilmington Ave. in Rehoboth Beach, 227-7952, plans to host "Brady Bunch" brunches on Sundays, starting Memorial Day Weekend. The eatery is going to play Brady Bunch videos and songs, and run a special menu with Brady-themed brunch specials.
How funny is this: One dish is called Jan's Inferiority Complex Platter.

I'm so there.

More momo


Just an FYI, if you check out Momofuku Ssam Bar in New York (see May 7 "I Love New York" post) make sure you go for dinner or a late night nosh.


My buddy Katie - who loved the place at night - just took her daughter for a lunch visit and said the vibe was completely different: "You go back to the counter in the kitchen and starting with rice in a plastic bowl, a server adds pulled pork, beef or chicken, red or black beans and various other sides/toppings and sauces. It was very delicious, but a far cry from what I hoped to convey. Drinks from a cooler behind the cash register in the kitchen area consisted of beer, water and soft drinks. Those delicious buns could be ordered, but otherwise, it was cafeteria style. What a transformation it undergoes for the night crowd. "

Wednesday, May 9, 2007

The Juice gets juiced


Restaurateur Jeff Ruby gave O.J. Simpson the Heisman.




Ruby showed Simpson the door out of respect for the families of Nicole Brown-Simpson and Ron Goldman.

Seeing Simpson get so much attention "makes me sick to my stomach," Ruby said.


And that's certainly something you don't want happening in a restaurant.

So long, but hopefully not for too long


How do you make a $1 million in the restaurant industry?

Start with $2 million.

It's an old joke, but, unfortunately, with a grain of truth. The business is tougher than well-done filet mignon.

I never like to see a restaurant close its doors and I'm particularly sad to see the closing of The Chef's Table at the David Finney Inn in Old New Castle. See my story today. Chef/owner Robert Lhulier and Julie Borsos poured their heart and soul into the business.

I had recently stopped by to watch Lhulier and sous chef Danny Profita make their own mozzarella. The cheese was warm, slightly salty and amazingly creamy. I was looking forward to ordering it this summer along with some fresh tomatoes and basil.

Robert Lhulier is a talented chef and I'm sure he'll land somewhere soon.
Buying a really luscious steak has always been one of the toughest challenges for the home cook -- restaurants routinely snap up almost all of the true "prime" cuts, leaving us at the whims of beef fortune as we sift through the "choice" cuts that fill supermarket shelves. Sometimes it works; other times, you end up with a tough, tasteless (and expensive) experience.'

Ultimately, in order to reach beef nirvana, the home cook must be willing to spend, and travel. Local butchers have some premier cuts, including Doc's up in Hockessin, Janssen's and FoodSource in Greenville, and the Country Butcher up in Kennett Square. Whatever you do, don't resort to those mail-order beef houses, unless you simply have more money than you know what to do with, and unless you're now willing to help make Donald Trump richer.

Yes, "The Donald" now has his own line of beef, predictably priced. Check out today's "news flash":

May 9 -- Sharper Image Corp., a specialty retailer of barbecue and cutlery products, said it will be the exclusive seller of Trump Steaks, named after real estate mogul Donald Trump and the same products sold in his restaurants.

The cover of the Sharper Image’s June catalog features Trump promoting “The World’s Greatest Steaks” and coincides with Father’s Day, the San Francisco-based company said today in a statement released on Business Wire. The USDA prime Angus is an “elite” category that accounts for less than 1 percent of beef produced in the U.S., the retailer said.

The four brands of Trump steaks are the $199 Classic Collection, the $349 Country Club Collection, the $499 Resort Collection and the $999 Connoisseur Collection. The cuts include porterhouse, filet mignon, New York boneless strip and rib eye.

The steaks will be sold in black and gold boxes at Sharper Image stores, through its catalog and online.

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

New Italian eats

I recently popped into the new Ristorante Pomodoro Italiano, 729 N. Union St., Wilmington, 574-9800 for my dime, my time dinner.
It's way too early for a review - this Little Italy restaurant is only about a month old at the most. Anyway, this is a place that Eric Ruth will most likely tackle for a 55 Hours review.
But my first impressions: Not at all bad. The setting is cozy and I enjoyed the antipasti platter and fettucine with porcini mushrooms. During our visit - a very busy weekend night - every seat was taken. It seemed like some kinks were still being worked out between the kitchen and dining room - we had long waits between appetizers and pasta, as did other tables around us. (And my dining companion's entree was brought at the same time as his pasta.) Mostly, I didn't mind the slow pace. We were drinking a nice wine and had a good long talk. A dining manager - or perhaps the owner - gave us complimentary chocolate-flavored liqueurs for dessert because of the delays. This is the kind of customer service diners appreciate. And you could tell the staff was working hard to please.
I'd go back again - my dime, my time.

Beard Award winners

The 17th annual James Beard Awards honoring the nation's top chefs, restaurateurs, beverage professionals and cookbook authors was held last night in New York City.
I've been to this gala event several times, but skipped this year's festivities.
It's always a scene.
In past years, I've watched Mario Batali schmoozing in black tie, shorts and orange clogs; Jamie Oliver "the Naked Chef" hanging with Food Network's Tyler Florence and just about every other Big Name Food Personality drinking champagne and partying down.
Frontera Grill, a wonderful Mexican eatery in Chicago owned by Rick and Deann Bayless, was named outstanding restaurant. (I had the best margarita of my life at Frontera Grill - and then immediately ordered another one.) David Chang, who cooks Asian comfort food at Momofuku Noodle Bar and Momofuku Ssam Bar in New York, was named rising-star chef, which is given to chefs age 30 or younger. I'm so happy. Visit either of Chang's restaurants and get the steamed buns; you won't be disappointed.
Thomas Keller of The French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., was named outstanding restaurateur; Michel Richard of Michel Richard Citronelle in Washington, D.C., outstanding chef; L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in New York, best new restaurant; and Michael Laskonis of Le Bernardin in New York, outstanding pastry chef.
Best Mid-Atlantic chef was won by R.J. Cooper III of Vidalia - he was recently a guest chef at Harry's Savoy Grill - and Frank Ruta, Palena, both in Washington, D.C.
Cookbook of the year: The Lee Brothers Southern Cookbook (W.W. Norton, $35).

Monday, May 7, 2007

Lobsters and redheaded Runway contestants









Next time I'm in New York, I might have to head to Ed’s Lobster Bar, 222 Lafayette St between Broome and Spring Sts (212-343-3236) and see what all the fuss is about.

This tiny Soho restaurant had a line of people waiting for it open for dinner - including that red-headed woman who was a contestant on "Project Runway." (We saw her, dressed in chic black dress and heels, waiting with her husband and baby. Right before that, we spied Zach Braff from "Scrubs" and some supermodel chick walking down the street.)

It's only a few months old at most and has gotten some mixed reviews on chowhound.com. According to Time Out New York magazine, Ed’s Lobster Bar was started by Ed McFarland, the longtime sous chef at Pearl Oyster Bar. The menu certainly looked appealing.
This is what Time Out had to say:

"What Pearl’s is to bivalves, Ed’s is to that crustacean: Lobster is served steamed, grilled, broiled, chilled or stuffed into a pie. But the majority of patrons I spied on my visits went straight for the lobster roll, which scores early points just for ample size. The meat, mostly premium tail, knuckle and claw, overflows a buttered, top-cut Pepperidge Farm bun."

I love New York

New York is the one of the most exciting cities in the world, especially when it comes to food.

I had several fabulous meals during a Manhattan weekend - but I must share two places that should be at the top of your list when visiting the city.

Definitely check out The Spotted Pig, a funky "gastropub" in the West Village. Chef April Bloomfield, a Brit, owns the joint with Ken Friedman, former manager of The Smiths. (Loved that band.) They don't take reservations so it can be fairly difficult to get a table from 8 to 10 p.m., but we went for Saturday lunch and only had to wait 10 mins. My group of 6 started with horseradish spiked Bloody Marys, a pot of pickles - spicy pickled veggies - and a plate of Malpec oysters. I got the smoked trout special with roasted beets and creme fraiche. We all went ga-ga over a creamy chicken liver mousse, the Cubano sandwich with arugula salad and the homemade lamb sausages. Yum-yum.

Later, that night we check out David Chang's Momofuku Ssam Bar in the East Village. New York Times "Minimalist" food columnist Mark Bittman told me to go there instead of Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar - look for my interview with Mark this Wednesday - especially since I was with a group. Momofuku Ssam Bar is on Second Avenue, the Momofuku Noodle Bar is on First Avenue between 10 and 11th streets.

Momofuku's Ssam Bar doesn't take reservations either, but right away I knew I was going to love this tiny slip of restaurant. It's high energy, the servers are young and hip - you'll hear all kinds of music, including AC/DC - and I loved this comment on the menu: "We do not serve vegetarian-friendly items." (Momofuku means lucky peach and ssam is an Asian burrito.) There's a life-size John McEnroe poster on a wall, which, according to The New York Times, a friend of Chang’s stole from a bus stop in the mid-1980s.

The menu has ham and offal as well as a raw bar, fish and other offerings It's a great "small plates" sharing place - we loved the steamed buns with pork belly, hoisin, cucumber and scallions, the marinated hanger steak ssam with ginger, kimchi and bibb lettuce, the pan-fried Sichuan spiced crawfish, the grilled veal sweetbreads with pickled roasted chilies and lime and the roasted brussel sprouts salad. They have a really interesting wine list: We went with cava, a Spanish sparkling wine. The pretty in pink Castell Roig Rose Cava Brut N.V. (Penedes) was $34 a bottle and is beautiful combination with spicy food.

From now on, when things are good in life, they are "momofuku."

Friday, May 4, 2007

Reader mail

It's Friday - so you know what that means: You ask, we answer.

QUESTION: Can you recommend an Eastern European (Polish, Russian, Ukranian, etc.)
restaurant or two? This type of food seems scarce around here ...
Thanks in advance, Deborah Ryszka


ANSWER: Deborah, there's a little place in Wilmington's Little Italy neighborhood called Sophie's Polish Kitchen, 402 N. Union St.; 426-1400. It's eat or take out. I've driven by it many times, but I must say I haven't stopped in. Rehoboth Beach has the very high end Red Square Restaurant and Caviar Bar, 162 Rehoboth Ave, 302-226-7782. They specialize in caviar and vodka.
The Warsaw Cafe, 306 S. 16th St. in Philadelphia, 215-546-0204 has Eastern European fare like pierogi and borscht. Readers, am I missing other restaurants? I'm drawing a blank.

QUESTION: Patricia & Eric, Hello, and because of your Delaware restaurant expertise, I have a question to pose. At the end of this month I will be graduating with my master's degree from the University of Delaware. I'm originally from Wisconsin, so I'm not so familiar with this area.
I have 13 relatives coming into town for the big event, and my father has offered to pay to treat everyone to lunch after the ceremony. He's asked me to select a restaurant, and I want to choose something nice, but moderately priced because of the number of people.
My question is- do you know of any restaurants in northern Delaware that do a great job of serving family style meals, or maybe a great Chinese or Thai place where we could order up a number of entrees and pass the food around? I don't want to put a dent in my father's pocketbook, but I'd like to go somewhere relatively nice to commemorate the occasion.
Please let me know your thoughts! Best, Mary Kumar


ANSWER: Mary, that's so nice of your father to treat the family. If you like Thai, I'd consider Tasti Thai, 287 Christiana Road in the Community Plaza Shopping Center, New Castle; 322-1306. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. The bland strip shopping center exterior doesn't do justice to this exciting and extremely affordable restaurant that opened about a year ago. Check it out first and see if it meets your price range. Indian food is another good option. Try Palace of Asia, 3421 Kirkwood Hwy, Wilmington, 994-9200. Here's the web site so you can look over the menu.

Martha, Martha, Martha


Martha Stewart, "the queen of all things domestic is turning her voracious appetite to perhaps the riskiest industry of all: groceries," according to a story today in the International Herald Tribune.
A Martha Stewart line of fresh, refrigerated and frozen foods will be sold at Costco, the nation's largest warehouse retailer.
First K-Mart, now Costco.
What's next for Martha Stewart? World domination?
Hey, if you see her again this weekend at Point to Point - she was Frolic Weymouth's guest last year - ask her about this Costco deal.

New Sussex County fish house

This is exciting news: The former Shark's Cove restaurant off Del. 54 in Fenwick Island has just reopened as Catch 54 Fish House.

It's the latest restaurant from Matt Haley's SoDel Concepts. Haley and company also run Fish On in Lewes, Northeast Seafood Kitchen in Ocean View and Bluecoast Seafood Grill in Bethany.

I haven't been there yet but I'm definitely going to check it out. The former Shark's Cove, kind of a secret restaurant, had own of the most beautiful views of the Assawoman Bay. (I know, I know, it's really hard to write that without snickering. That name has made me laugh since my family started visiting Fenwick Island in the early '80s. Age obviously doesn't cure immaturity.)

Catch 54 has a dockside patio bar, as well as a full waterfront dining area. It's now open Wednesday through Sunday at for dinner at 5pm. Starting Memorial Day and extending all the way through the summer and fall season, Catch 54 will serve lunch, dinner and a late night menu.

Thursday, May 3, 2007


If you're like me, calories are the last thing I'm fretting about when I eat high-end food (for real consternation, see my face when they plop down that black folder with the check in it). Such food is by definition an indulgence (calorically and financially); to suddenly allow dietetic concerns to intrude defeats the whole purpose of fine dining, IMHO.

Still, it was fascinating to see the New York magazine article that assessed the caloric content of a nine-course, $250 meal at what may be the nation's best restaurant (and least practical weight-loss regimen), Per Se. The bad news? You're chowing down a good bit of your daily caloric intake, just for lunch. The good news? You can enjoy a torchon of foie gras with less guilt than a Big Mac would bring.

Wilmington Restaurant Week: Take three

Just got back from a Restaurant Week lunch at Deep Blue Bar & Grill.

While they couldn't find our inital reservation - not sure what happened there - the friendly staff was very accommodating and sat us right away. Good thing, the dining room was buzzing with customers a mere 15 minute later.

At Deep Blue, you have six options for the first course and six options for the second. It's one of the larger Restaurant Week menus.

I always run into a dilemma when I'm dining out - do I order what I really want or get items that I think other people would most likely order?

For this lunch, it was 50-50. Since this is a seafood restaurant, I went with things that swim in the sea: fried calamari with jalapeno curry aioli for the first course and then got the crab cake sandwich with melted jack cheese, tomato, cole slaw, french fries.

My dining buddy ordered the seafood spring rolls with cucumber mint salad, wasabi aioli, sweet Thai chile sauce and the pan seared sea scallops with saffron Serrano ham rice, avocado crab salad, chorizo broth.

The lightly crispy calamari, which easily feeds two, was right on the mark - especially the very artistic Sriracha swirls on the side of plate and the creamy, yet zippy jalapeno curry aioli. The crunchy spring rolls came with equally eye-pleasing, and very pretty, swirly wasabi and chili sauces. (Keep that budding Picasso on staff!)

However, I wish I read the menu more closely when it came to the crab cake. I'm not a big fan of cheese on my crab cake - I think it cloaks the sweet flavor of the meat - and this one had a layer of oozy jack cheese.

It was fine, but, to be perfectly honest, after a few bites of what was essentially a crab melt, OK fries and not bad, not great cole slaw, I was wishing I had ordered something a little more imaginative. (I know, I know. The two-course meal is only 15 beans, but still...)

Maybe the grilled New York Strip Steak with white truffle mashed potatoes, creamy spinach and Cabrales blue cheese butter or perhaps the grilled salmon with scallion potato hash, roasted garlic spinach and green peppercorn sauce?

My companion chose much more wisely and after a few bites of her beautifully seared sea scallops and the smoky chorizo broth, I began coveting that dish. Next time.

UPDATE: Some suits at The News Journal - i.e. people who have bigger offices and salaries than me - grabbed a table today at the Hotel du Pont's Green Room for a Restaurant Week lunch. Raves all around. My boss said they all loved the salmon. The service was top-tier and the dining room was full. Good to hear.

You scream, we scream ...


Sure, the Japanese may have their "superpremium" beef -- the practically magical and astronomically priced Kobe -- but we long-suffering folks in Delaware will soon have access to "Superpremium Ice Cream," just in time for summer. As if Haagen-Dazs wasn't already decadent enough, they're now distrubting a new "Reserve Series" in Delaware and some other select states. The company's press release even makes a fairly amusing attempt to compare ice cream to other gourmet experiences:

"True ice cream lovers savor their ice cream much the same way that wine enthusiasts appreciate a fine wine. Haagen-Dazs Reserve ice creams have an unmistakable character and a perfect balance of flavors to intrigue the palate and satisfy even the most discerning ice cream aficionados."

OK, I'm sold (even at $4.99 a pint). Here's a look at the new flavors (enthusiastic adjectives are from Haagen-Dazs, not me):

-- Hawaiian Lehua Honey and Sweet Cream Ice Cream -- A rich sweet cream
ice cream blended with Hawaiian Lehua honey. The Lehua blossom imparts
a subtle floral note to the ice cream, which is complemented by the
sweet cream.
-- Pomegranate Chip Ice Cream -- A refreshing fruit ice cream that
balances sweet and tart Mediterranean Pomegranates with luscious dark
chocolate chips.
-- Amazon Valley Chocolate Ice Cream -- A distinctive and creamy chocolate
ice cream. Naturally lighter in color, Amazon Valley cocoa beans
deliver an intense flavor with notes of roasted chestnuts and
hazelnuts.
-- Brazilian Acai Berry Sorbet -- A tantalizing sorbet crafted from the
rare and complex Acai (ah-sigh-ee) berry. The deep red fruit delivers
notes of blackberries and sweet blueberries.
-- Toasted Coconut Sesame Brittle Ice Cream -- Ginger-infused sesame
brittle folded into a luxurious ice cream with fresh-shaved coconut,
lightly toasted and then steeped in rich cream and coconut milk.
-- Pomegranate Dark Chocolate Bar -- A distinctive ice cream bar that
pairs a dark chocolate coating with Pomegranate ice cream. Both sweet
and tart, it delivers a complex but clean finish.

Wednesday, May 2, 2007

Wilmington Restaurant Week: Take two

Some readers seem to have gotten the idea that Eric and I were dogging Hotel du Pont chef Pat D'Amico in our posts after a Monday Restaurant Week lunch . Couldn't be further from the truth. I wrote in an April 23 Second Helpings post that D'Amico is one of the state's most talented chefs. I still believe that. And, if you read our posts again, you'll see we said the Restaurant Week dishes at the Hotel du Pont were really good.

The service at the Hotel, however, left a lot to be desired. I'll gladly be the head cheerleader for Delaware restaurants - no problem - but, sorry, I still don't understand why our server didn't seem to know it was Restaurant Week when there are billboards all over the city, flyers, radio ads, a big press conference, etc. And having to practically plead for Restaurant Week menus not only left us feeling embarrassed, it was certainly a major turn-off. Falling down on basic customer service is a big reason why people get turned off by certain restaurants.

But I'm happy to say we had a wonderful experience today at 821 Market Street Bistro. Eric will post his thoughts on Thursday.

821's $15 Restaurant Week lunch menu - which we were given as soon as we were seated - has four entrees: pork Bolognese, steak Caesar salad, gnocchi and Spinach salad and the 821 hamburger. The four dessert options include Grit Pound Cake with pecan butter, maple molasses ice cream; lemon & mascarpone cheesecake; two free-form chocolate soufflés and Peppermint ice cream; and apple sorbet poached lady apples with Cider caramel & candied walnuts.

Executive chef and 821 co-owner Nate Garyantes stepped up to the plate with his entrees and desserts. The 821 burger was outstanding as was the steak Caesar salad. (Everyone wanted second, perhaps even third, bites of this juicy hamburger, but after one pass around the table, its owner wasn't giving it up.) I thought the portion size on the gnocchi and spinach salad could have been a little larger, but it certainly wasn't lacking in flavor. And I'll pay full price any day for the "grit pound cake." (Psssst, Nate. Can you email me that recipe? )

Two other dining companions - who paid for their own meal- had nothing but high praise for this satisfying lunch and talked about returning very soon for dinner.

To me, this is what Restaurant Week is all about. If I were you, I'd call 821 now, 652-8821, and make a reservation.

Yo, Tony, um, I mean Jim


Do you have a pal who always knows the hottest place or is the know about The Next Big Thing?That’s my pal Andy.
Andy told me about albarino (Spanish white wine), Proscecco (sparkling Italian wine) and Momofuku Noodle Bar in the New York’s Greenwich Village - long before they were cool.
Dining out with Andy is always an adventure. We try and meet up in New York at least once a year.
Before one lunch, Andy asked, “Oh, do you mind if I bring a friend?” Said friend was Heather on “General Hospital” or Janet from Another Planet on “All My Children,” depending on which ABC soap you may have watched.
The friend’s real name is really Robin. But all through lunch I had keep myself from saying, “Heather, could you please pass me the rolls?”
Looking around the restaurant that day, there were editors from all the top culinary magazines and even celebrity chef icon Jacques Pepin. The chef in the kitchen was Patricia Quintana or the Julia Child of Mexican. Patricia Quintana - who’s the subject of a story today in The New York Times - came over to chat with our table. So did Jacques Pepin.
What can I say? That’s Andy.
I’m heading to New York this weekend and I’m hoping to meet up with Andy. Last time, we talked about getting together Andy mentioned maybe having drinks with Jim, an old college pal from Rutgers.
Sounds good. Jim, it seems, is James Gandolfini or Tony Soprano. OK, I don’t usually get star struck but drinks with Tony Soprano? How cool would that be?
With Andy you just never know what's going to happen.

Silver Palate silver anniversary


The Silver Palate Cookbook was published 25 years ago.


It "changed the cookbook world forever," said cookbook author Ina Garten, best known as the Barefoot Contessa.


New York restaurateur Danny Meyer said it "remains the classic standard by which any American cookbook must be measured."


Sheila Lukins and Julee Rosso's book also changed the way many home cooks approached dinner. More than 2.3 million copies of this paperback cookbook are in print - and I'm guessing many, like mine, are tattered and stained. I still make "our favorite viniagrette" and my sister just made raspberry chicken for a recent family birthday party. The recipes hold up surprising well.

A 25th anniversary edition of the cookbook is being released this month (Workman, $19.95) that now includes more than 100 color photographs. (Wow, chicken marbella - in color!) I'm planning a story about the Silver Palate Cookbook and want to talk to readers about their own experiences with the cookbook. If you're interested, email me at ptalorico@delawareonline.com. tell me your favorite Silver Palate recipes and please include your name and daytime phone number.

Tuesday, May 1, 2007

Restaurant Week -- A Reader's View

The reader reviews are starting to arrive as the city's annual exploration of taste continues. Here's an e-mail that landed Tuesday from a diner who stopped by Deep Blue Bar & Grill, possibly the county's best upscale seafood restaurant:

My friend Melissa and I visited Deep Blue for lunch -- it was fantastic. They gave us the menu right away (unlike your Hotel DuPont experience!). It was almost assumed we would be ordering from that particular menu.

There were several options for the first and second course, which is why we went there. We both had the calamari, and it was crisp and delicious and a full portion size. I had the NY Strip steak with mashed potatoes and Melissa had the Baby Spinach and Grilled Chicken salad. Both were large portion sizes and very flavorful. Our service was great and the restaurant was full.


Mmmmm, calamari. If you're a fan, you might also try Harry's Seafood Grill's version -- impeccably crisp and tender, without a trace of oil. This dish has become so ubiquitous and beloved that I've taken to calling it "Yuppie Popcorn."